Cologne du 68 by Guerlain: fragrance review, history and comparison

Once upon a time there was a deep blue, carriage lantern with a clear stopper holding the purple creature of the night, la belle de nuit aux violets that is Guet Apens. She made her debut via the magic of nose Mathilde Laurent 10 years ago (1999) when Guerlain had its first inflow of funds from LVMH's initial investment. But the spell would be broken at midnight: this carriage was a pumpkin and limited editions are called limited for a reason; fairy godmothers can do no exceptions, no matter how talented! Was the sobriquet non sonours enough to English-speaking ears? Was there a rival fairy-godfather? No one outside Guerlain knows for sure in this fairy tale. Still, the fairy dust was too addictive and the recipe too delicious to be left at that. One belle was put to bed for an eternal slumber, another came out with a slight retouche by Jean Paul Guerlain three years later: she was simply named No.68(limited edition). The numerological Moerae were unstinting to her: 68 would be her charms and virtues, almost as many as the Napoleonic bees which adorned her herculean (250ml) physique. The resinous, powdery, vanillic juice at her core bore ties of consanguinity with both Guet Apens and Terracotta. But she too had to leave her slippers behind for fair princes to pick up in desperate hopes; she's no longer made in that guise.

Years passed in Guerlaindom and suitors came and went empty-handed, until someone realised that the address of their flagship store on the Champs Elysées in Paris is too good to pass up (after all every self-respecting maison has their address emblazoned on something) and Guerlain Cologne du 68 was born, seemingly Athena-like from Zeus' head, but in fact through the artistry of Sophie Labbé in 2006. What better of a constant reminder of the abode and shrine character of that emblematic boutique in the market?

First the new unisex Cologne du 68 came in the brave, Titanic size of 500ml. The age of the Titans was inaugurated by Les Exclusifs de Chanel and progressed from them. Size did matter! Later, masterminds at the Guerlain and LVMH headquarters realised that more customers could be lured in, if a more modest size was introduced and who wants to feel antagonized anyway? Enter the 100ml/3.4oz size which now circulates. And how does this new sprite smell? Completely different than her other, previous, stupendous incarnations; yet prodigiously good! Guerlain sang its siren song: "Fresh spices of cardamom and coriander blended with citrus fruits are warmed with hot spices of pepper and ginger for an everlasting scent [...] a sumptuous composition with 68 of the finest raw materials gathered from all over the world. Both fresh and spicy, it will win hearts with its ultra-modern facets, long wearing scent and beautiful, tall minimalist bottle."

Guerlain Cologne du 68 is ~if not fairy-tale like~ a feat of masterful work: It utilizes a sophisticated composition interplaying rich scents that conspire to give the full spectrum of aroma with no more general descriptor possible than the ambiance of a warm citrus shimmering under the spell of spices. A masterful combination of floral, spicy oriental, aromatic, herbal green and even clean elements with a powdery iris-vanillic-tonka finish that anchors it firmly in the Guerlain tradition; yet thoroughly modern, eminently wearable, fit for every occasion. The drydown is warm, rather sweet and lasting with blonde woods and slightly powdery notes that put it in flou.

The tall cylindrical bottle is appropriately unisex, well-made with the wooden cap recalling the one on Terre d'Hermès. The purpotedly 68 ingredients show up on the label, apothecary-style.

Notes for Guerlain Cologne du 68: bergamot, green mandarin, lemon, clementine, orange peel, blood orange, sweet lime, grapefruit, basil, fennel, star anise, lavender, bay leaf, cypress, elemi, thyme, myrthe, bigarade, mandarin, petit grain, lemon petit grain, pear, violet greens, lierre, gentiane, seve, blackcurrant, freesia, lily of the valley, hazel leaf, cyclamen, cardamom, coriander, black pepper, pink berry, nutmeg, ginger, jasmine, frangipane, magnolia blossom, orange blossom, peony, rose, carnation, ylang-ylang, lychee, fig, blackberry, immortelle, lentisque (mastic), opoponax, amber, benzoin, vanilla, cistus, heliotrope, iris, tonka bean, sage, musk, patchouli, agarwood, cedar, sandalwood, vetiver, vegetable musk, praline, myrrhe and lichen.

Available for $100 for 3.4 oz/100ml at Neiman Marcus and at Guerlain boutiques the world over.

Cinderella illustrationg by Gustave Doré, from the 19th century, via logoi.com .Pic of bottle by Kittyfishstyle/mua

More news on Nuit de Cellophane by Serge Lutens

As always the news of an upcoming scent by Serge Lutens have the perfume community wrapped up in anticipation, so it is a pleasure to present some more info on Nuit de Cellophane by Serge Lutens, courtesy of the eminable Elisabeth de Feydeau who has been attending a pre-sniff at the snow-covered, silent Salons du Palais Royal abode. Elisabeth poetically referred to a Little Red Riding-Hood fairy tale of petrified wolves, non threatening and sage, while the steps sounded on the vast hall, breath held with anticipation for the new opus. And then it reveals its stars like nuggets of matte gold, ringing without harshness; warmth returns and colours reanimate: yellow, orange, pearly white, iridiscent apricot. The scent seemed to her like caressing silk crêpe or abandoning ones' self to the softness of peach skin. All this is evoced by this "cellophane night" whose denoument is conjured by the ever fertile imagination of Serge Lutens:

"The night comes to light, revealing its stars.
Evening butterflies dance in their hefty, velvet way around the lanterns.
The inhabitants of the shades, crickets and madmen, all send their own SOS.
-Miss, will you kindly wrap all this in cellophane!
-Is it a gift, sir?
-Yes, indeed; a gift for you!"

The fragrance swirls, avoiding shrill tones. Asian jasmine has the fruity touch of osmanthus with a stolen hint of mandarin peel. Nothing too sweet, but suave and soft, rendered by myrrh and sandalwood. Animal notes, like civet and castoreum, meow on the skin. Elisabeth is categorically enthusiastic on the treatment, urging us to grab it if possible, as Serge Lutens entertains himself once more by leading us from the nose while he goes off to other stories to be told on another day: "nothing ferocious, a wild thing without the talons, sensuality without fierceness; good accords producing wholesome alliances".

Myrrh and mandarin have been treated to magnificent results in La Myrrhe, civet and jasmine are the heart of Sarrasins. Personally this salivating description of Nuit de Cellophane has me dreaming of the following magnificent Asian- inspired clip:



Rumours want the public launch date to shift to March. We will revert with a full review as soon as possible!


EDIT TO ADD: You can now read my full-on review of Nuit de Cellophane following this link.



Pic and original info via E.d Feydeau. Adaptation in English by Helg, please provide link-back if you need to quote me.

News, news.....

Worthy of mention: Denyse had a pre-sniff of the new Vanille Galante by Hermès, the one which excludes synthetic vanillin but includes ylang ylang, and is enthusiastic about it: "With Vanille Galante, Ellena has managed a double tour de force: not only has he washed away vanilla’s triteness by signing it, its clichéd yumminess, but he has also managed to stretch out the headiness and heaviness of sweet, exotic materials into an almost impalpable substance" You can read the rest here.

(Le Critique de Parfum is less enthusiastic ~in French)
Other presentations/semi-reviews: Glamourparis.com (which puts the launch date in February and not in January as I had originally reported on my analysis of what to expect of it), and Vogue.fr.

The characteristic leather-clad bottle of the Hermessences looks mighty elegant in white, does it not?
To be exclusively available through Hermès boutiques.

And Octavian Coifan is leaping into the vast perfume market with his own fragrance: check this link!

Favorite Things 2008

Recapping the year only in perfume terms just doesn't cut it: There are tons of things that are connected to the Good Life which have brightened the year past. So in an effort to credit the small and bigger things that have done so, a group of bloggers are showcasing them. Thanks to Grayburn for organizing this project and kindly inviting me to join!
What does it take for something to make it to my favorite things 2008 list? It has to be something I have derived actual pleasure out of, plus results; it must be luxurious without necessarily being in the stratospheric price echelons; and it should provide that ne plus ultra that makes it indispensable. So without further ado, here are some of my favorite things for 2008.


Favorite Primer
Clarins Lisse Minute/ Instant Smooth perfecting touch

Do you consider your face a fresco? Then why are you applying what is essentially paint directly onto the mortar (your pores)? This small jar of volatile silicones and wax helps make all small textural imperfections (pores, lines, roughness) vanish in such a miraculous way as Keyser Söze did in The Usual Suspects. Making the imperceptible yet annoying disappear is impossible in forensics, archaeology and the coroner's bed, but not in cosmetology any more thanks to Clarins. Pricy but worth it!

Favorite blusher and beyond
Nars the Multiple in Malibu

Not new, but I have come late to the cult of this, thanks to my introduction to it by Dain. Basically sunset in a stick, meant to be lightly dabbed on cheekbones (but also eyelids and/or lips), it imparts the loveliest glow without seeming garish (it's not as dark as it shows in the tube) and should look lovely on those with light or medium complexions (I fear it won't show up enough on dark skins, that's why)

Favorite Anti-ageing Treatment
Laboratoires Avène Ysthéal creme

This is so good, so well tolerated and perportedly so effective (I will know in about 10 years' time I guess) that it's a perennial favorite of mine for at least 8 months of the year every year (strong sunlight is a no-no so I give it a rest during summer ~no matter how much I lather sunscreen on, some of it slips and I am taking no chances). Containing retinaldehyde (a precursor of Retin-A, more effective than retinol, better tolerated than actual Retin-A) it transforms to retinoic acid in the skin providing an investement for the future. Consider it Skin Insurance.

Favorite Moisturiser
Vichy Aqua Thermal UV SPF15

The new product that finally managed to salvage me on the humid days in the metropolis when I didn't have the heart to put my moisturiser on (instant sweat on the forehead!) or my much needed sunscreen (the requirement for safekeeping the future). Luckily this combines both in a satiny gel-cream that absorbs quickly, leaves a smooth texture and has a high PPD of 18 (basically this means that it does perform a good work of shielding the skin from the ageing UVA rays contrary to sunscreens with a high SPF factor but not much UVA protection). Available through chemist's.

Favorite Fragrance
This is a perfume blog, how could it ever be possible to choose only one? Still the fragrances I have worn most in 2008 are Vetiver Tonka by Hermès, Chant d'Aromes by Guerlain and El Attarine by Lutens (one out of three is from 2008). Please peruse my Reviews Index and Recent Releases for more.

Favorite Portable Obsession
Tie between Roxana Illuminated perfume in Sierra Gold (complex resinous goodness) and Pacifica Madagascar Spice (the clove smell of the holidays's melomakarona). These are so easy to use and so yummy that they have converted me to smearing my wrists with what I thought was simply goey stuff; it's so much more.

Favorite Lip Balm
Parfumeria Gal Madrid in Grosella (Red Currant) and Violette

These cute looking Art Nouveau tins hide a wonderfully aromatic balm in various shades. Grosella is especially becoming in the colder months and Violette smells delicious. Available through Beautyhabit.

Favorite Sandals
Amedeo Canfora Sandals in Danielle Turquoise.
When you're traipsing your way through the hot cobblestones of Capri (What am I saying? Even through Monastiraki square!), these elegant, foot-friendly sandals are a constant reminder that your well-cared-for feet are, per Leonardo da Vinci's words, "a wonder of mechanics". They make me wish for the return of summer!

Favorite Art Site
None other than Art Daily. A little dose makes for plenty of ideas and much enjoyement.

Favorite Sinful Indulgence
Orange and Thyme pralines by Pierre Marcolini. A look through their catalogue is sin itself. (available also in 6 Lancer Square Kensington, London W8 4EH and Park Avenue, 85 10022 New York. Pretend you never read this).

Favorite Healthful Indulgence
Drinking the earthy, almost tannic tasting Pu-erh tea which is said to lower cholesterol in the process as well. (Can it wash down the Marcolini pralines, I wonder?) Available through tsai.gr.

Favorite Nail Polish
Essie in 491 Sweet Tart

This nail polish is everything autumn and winter fashions were about: mauve-ish, metallic and elegant. It has been adorning my fingernails for most of autumn and into winter and goes well from university lecturing to theatre-and-a-drink night out. The finish is excellent, it lasts well, it compliments my light, yet neutral skintone and the price is right.

Favorite Literary Parody
If you are an avid reader (like myself) and might also want something practical around (unlike myself) Sartre's Sink by Marl Crick might do the trick of two birds with one stone. Imitating the literary style of famous writers to actually compose a Do-it-Yourself guide that includes from wallpapering to unblocking a sink, Crick will have you laughing out recognising The Old Man and the Sea, The Black Cat or The Wind-up Bird Chronicle (to give out but a few). He's written a cooking guide called Kafka's Soup as well, tackling the authors who escaped; word has it the recipes work too! (on my to-read-list)

Favorite Tobacco fix
For someone who doesn't smoke, but appreciates the complexity of a good Partagas Reserva nevertheless, finding something with a rich, satisfying tobacco smell is a futile mission.
The perfect combination came this year in Kings & Queens Tsar Peter shower gel followed by a spritz of Bell'Antonio by Italian designer Hilde Soliani (available at New London Pharmacy). Two minutes later and I am sporting a fedora shading my eyes in an imaginary Kafka-esque walk through Mala Strana.

Favorite Threatical Performance
No contest; the Quebequois Cirque Éloize in their latest, Rain: Childhood innocence and fantasy combined in a Fellini and Comedia-dell'Arte-like show full of wonderful music that takes the form of a memoir of author/director Danielle Fins Pasca's childhood recollections. The catharctic finale has the entire troupe reverting to their childhood, one by one, participating in a rain-soaked game of football. It was hard to get back to reality as I exited the theatre and to tick off the last remaining drops of "rain" clinging like a vague souvenir off the lapel...



Please check the other participants for more ideas on Favorite Things of 2008:
Beautiful Makeup Search
Beauty 411
Beauty Talk
Beauty Tyrant
Binary Star
'*:.blu3.:*'
For The Love of Beauty
Grayburn
Life Of A Ladybug
lily loves mac
Make Do Style
Mischo Beauty
Miss Whoever You Are
Platinum Blonde Life
Searching the Inner Me
Slap Of The Day
The Beauty Alchemist
The non-blonde
Urbane Girl

Pic through Amazon, msn.com, shopmania.co.za, canfora.com, ulterior epicure/flickr

Cimabue by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz (Parfums des Beaux Arts): fragrance review

From the effulgent Byzantine mosaics of Ravenna as seen in the warm light of noon to the incadescent Scrovegni Chapel frescoes by Giotto in Padua during the cool silence of a winter afternoon, Italian art is infused with the resplendent light of the South which never fails to draw a beatific expression out of me. That golden light has been captured in a fragrance called Cimabue by independent niche perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz. Cenni di Pepo (Giovanni) Cimabue (c. 1240 — c. 1302) was the artist to bridge the opulence of Byzantium with the insight, knowledge and brilliance of the Renaissance and counted Giotto among his students. Cimabue, the fragrance, is characterised by Dawn as "my Saffron note étude" but it provides a porthole into her greater agilité in various techniques. It's no coincidence that Dawn began her career as a painter progressing to work at Boston's famed ESSENSE Perfumery and imbuing her perfumes with fine art principles (texture, color, line, light, shape, and expression) in her own line, Parfums des Beaux Arts, LLC.

Cimabue (pronounced chim-a-boo-way, according to Dawn) had first come to my attention through a perfume enthusiast and online friend who sent me a sample some time ago. I recall I was favourably impressed and left it at that. But now that the Saffron Series has caught up with me, what better time to revisit and explore the intricasies that weave throughout its composition?
Cimabue materialized out of love: the love of a perfumer to her clients. When a lover of Safran Troublant sent a request to Dawn to make something comparable, Dawn set out to create Cimabue. Yet Cimabue is not a rip off Safran Troublant, but rather a spicier, richer, enigmatic interpretation that spans the spectrum from honeyed floral to bittersweet spicy to luscious oriental much like the colours of those frescoes take on different shades depending on the light cast.

Cimabue begins on complex citrus , immediately flanked by unctuous saffron with the feel of aromatized olive oil for a creamy, starchy Carnaroli risotto. Although there are flowers' essences in the composition, none emerges prominently, instead undulating into layers that are folded in the spice mix. The smell of clove, cardamom and nutmeg slither when Cimabue takes on the skin, then the sandalwood, vanilla and sweet powder combine in a classic milky gourmand drydown that accounts for a very warm and pleasantly sweet ambience with average lasting power.
Cimabue should please spice lovers as well as gourmand lovers and will bring a little warmth in the depths of winter.

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Cimabue notes:
Top: Bergamot, bitter orange, cardamom, clementine, Italian neroli, lemon, nutmeg
Middle: carnation absolute, cinnamon bark, clove bud, Egyptian Rose geranium, Grandiflorum jasmine, honey beeswax, Moroccan rose absolute, Mysore sandalwood, Saffron absolute, Tuberose absolute
Bottom: Ciste absolute, East Indian sandalwood, labdanum, oppopanax, Siam benzoin, Tahitian vanilla, Tamil Nadu sandalwood, vanilla absolute.

Cimabue is part of the more upscale collection Parfums des Beaux Arts (limited editions) and is available in various sizes: 0 .25 oz Eau de Parfum travel spray will set you back $27 while a limited edition flacon of extrait de parfum runs for $135 while a body butter and a foaming creame compliment the experience. Samples and sampler packs are also available on the DSH website.

Related reading on Perfume Shrine: the Saffron Series

Painting of Madonna enthroned with the child, St Francis, St.Domenico and two Angels by Cimabue displayed in Galleria Uffici Florence courtesy of Christus Rex