Monday, January 12, 2009

More news on Nuit de Cellophane by Serge Lutens

As always the news of an upcoming scent by Serge Lutens have the perfume community wrapped up in anticipation, so it is a pleasure to present some more info on Nuit de Cellophane by Serge Lutens, courtesy of the eminable Elisabeth de Feydeau who has been attending a pre-sniff at the snow-covered, silent Salons du Palais Royal abode. Elisabeth poetically referred to a Little Red Riding-Hood fairy tale of petrified wolves, non threatening and sage, while the steps sounded on the vast hall, breath held with anticipation for the new opus. And then it reveals its stars like nuggets of matte gold, ringing without harshness; warmth returns and colours reanimate: yellow, orange, pearly white, iridiscent apricot. The scent seemed to her like caressing silk crêpe or abandoning ones' self to the softness of peach skin. All this is evoced by this "cellophane night" whose denoument is conjured by the ever fertile imagination of Serge Lutens:

"The night comes to light, revealing its stars.
Evening butterflies dance in their hefty, velvet way around the lanterns.
The inhabitants of the shades, crickets and madmen, all send their own SOS.
-Miss, will you kindly wrap all this in cellophane!
-Is it a gift, sir?
-Yes, indeed; a gift for you!"

The fragrance swirls, avoiding shrill tones. Asian jasmine has the fruity touch of osmanthus with a stolen hint of mandarin peel. Nothing too sweet, but suave and soft, rendered by myrrh and sandalwood. Animal notes, like civet and castoreum, meow on the skin. Elisabeth is categorically enthusiastic on the treatment, urging us to grab it if possible, as Serge Lutens entertains himself once more by leading us from the nose while he goes off to other stories to be told on another day: "nothing ferocious, a wild thing without the talons, sensuality without fierceness; good accords producing wholesome alliances".

Myrrh and mandarin have been treated to magnificent results in La Myrrhe, civet and jasmine are the heart of Sarrasins. Personally this salivating description of Nuit de Cellophane has me dreaming of the following magnificent Asian- inspired clip:

Rumours want the public launch date to shift to March. We will revert with a full review as soon as possible!

EDIT TO ADD: You can now read my full-on review of Nuit de Cellophane following this link.

Pic and original info via E.d Feydeau. Adaptation in English by Helg, please provide link-back if you need to quote me.


  1. Wow! And you have beautifully illustrated my major problem - buying a scent because I'm seduced by the concept/name/bottle. I will now have to go to liberty's, search out the Lutens display, and convince myself not to spend more than i can afford on it. I had to talk myself out of buying "Rousse" because I am indeed a redhead and I wanted to wear a perfume called that - it so very much didn't suit me but I was still tempted! And yet... if I had known that the bottle for Patricia de Nicolai's "Sacrebleu" was as hideous as it is I might never have tried it and fallen deeply and lastingly in love...

  2. Wait, wait, my lovely redhead! It's not out yet: it was supposed to come out in January but I hear March now. Still, now we have some info from a pre-sniff.

    I have the same problem with concepts/names/etc. But I have faith in the stearing of Elisa and I hope that like the two previous Lutens, Serge Noire and El Attarine, (which I loved), this one will be just as good.

    Funny how the De Nicolai brand is not as lavishly packaged as say Guerlain, huh? ;-)

  3. Have I told you that I love osmanthus, E? I do!

    Daim Blond has that touch of the apricot suede that osmanthus exudes. While I don't expect Cellophane to smell like DB, I do look forward to testing it when it debuts.

  4. Dear R,

    hi there! Hope everything is great :-)

    I have it on good authority that it's not like Daim Blond, despite the apricot-suede ref. I think it's the jasmine and the animalics which might shift it? Perhaps.
    Very eager as well!

  5. Anonymous17:39


    While SL's words are never less than ravishing I've learnt to reserve my judgement until I can properly test it. (Truly no offese to everyone's excitment.) As you know I like Daim Blond but I know it has its detractors. (BTW you know how I feel about Serge Noire.) Even the famed ISM smells different to me: I don't pick out dirt all that much...I smell bread once it starts developing on my skin. So overall the initial briefing sounds good--but I prefer to wait for now.


  6. Very exciting! Although I am sad to hear that it is due in March now, as I was hoping to catch a sniff in Paris in February. Alas.

  7. A,

    bien entendu! I agree on holding judgement till sniffing for ones' self.
    I am not a fan of Daim Blond particularly; for some reason something bothers me (too much heliotrope/almond/plus too much sweetness...something!)
    On the other hand I do get the bread note in Iris Silver Mist but I like it there (in En Passant, I don't>funny though, they must have it constructed the same way)

  8. J,

    isn't it a bummer! Sorry about that. (well, let's see what comes out officially in the next few days about it)

  9. I am sitting here and salivating, you know my osmanthus love Helg ;-). Gorgeous clip and do I have the artist for you

  10. J, it looks like you're one of the target group!! Osmanthus was missing from the line and it's an export, so a dream come true, huh?

    THANK YOU for that link!! I have adored this clip ever since I fist set my eyes on it on screen and it's amazing to discover the artist behind it!

  11. serious dream come true.

  12. A floral bouquet, then? It might be nice to see him expanding somewhat from the fantastical soliflores that mark his usual treatment of flowers.

  13. Unlike the first impressions about Nuit de Cellophane being an osmanthus, it seems that the jasmine is more predominant. I'm hoping to find out by myself pretty soon...

  14. Oh Helg - How did you know I love a gin and tonic?
    I am sad to tell you but ... we put darling Oscar to sleep today.
    I feel like a gin and tonic and I have to confess - that is my fav gin. Only when I can get it duty free!
    I just Have to smell this scent if and when it hits my shores Helg!!!!

  15. thank you for this... be still my beating heart... this sounds like it could be Serge on top form.

  16. Wow I love this bit of information. I need to get my hands on this perfume!

    xo Grayburn

  17. Anonymous13:24

    "whimpers quietly". Between this and the new Hermessence my best laid plans for a strict perfume budget this downturn year are in peril! I love osmanthus and the thought that this is more a floral than the suede like Daim Blond intrigues me very much. It sounds beautiful and I'm looking forward very much to trying it. At least I have time to save up if I like it come March! Thanks for the preview E. donanicola

  18. J,

    who could argue? I hope it proves to be everything you're dreaming of n a perfume. :-)

  19. D,

    I guess he has cornered the marketed on a couple (who can surpass his A la Nuit, Tubereuse Criminelle or Un Lys? Although Fleurs d'Oranger, Rose de Nuit,and Sarrasins are quite complex to my mind).

  20. It does, doesn't it? Well, jasmine is a Moroccan "delicasy". ;-)

  21. My dear M,

    that is terrible news...I am so sorry (mailing you)

  22. K,

    hope you try it soon and like it!

  23. V,

    uncle Serge knows how to make us anticipate, doesn't he?

  24. N,

    you're welcome. Ahhh...the budget. *sigh*


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