Monday, December 8, 2008

Frequent Questions: How to Choose Fragrance for a Gift

With the holidays looming up, choosing gifts for those loved ones and friends can be a really difficult task. And so often the thoughts of those of us enamored with fragrances turns to this thorny path: "How should I choose a fragrance gift for my loved ones so that it suits them and they're pleased with it?" Let's see in this little shopping guide how we can make this a little easier and practical.

Fist of all, I have to observe that fragrance gifting seems to be a procedure that is more or less loaded depending on culture and upbringing: Certain cultures apply highly individualistic attributes and sexualised messages to perfumes in general (designating perfume as an intimate gift or one which is an innuendo to more personal associations). To them, sometimes fragrance gifting from outside the tightest circle of family and/or lovers is suggestive in a manner too close for comfort. Others ~notably Southern Mediterranean people~, inspired by the wide use of Eaux de Cologne as a refreshing pick-me up with no attraction connotations whatsoever, indulge in fragrance gifting with less self-consiousness and it is indeed among the very traditional gestures, even among business associates! Additionally, highly urbanised terrains and younger ages allow for a bottle of fragrance to be seen more like a fashion accesory than a luxury "treasure" to be savoured on special occassions. Therefore, bear those factors in mind when considering to whom you're offering a gift of perfume or how you feel about this yourself (although I am assuming if you have made it here and thus far, you're not antithetical to the idea of presenting someone with a festively wrapped bottle of perfume!)

The first rule of successful fragrance gifting should be that you choose something that is according to the recipient's tastes and needs. Similar to how you wouldn't gift a socialite with a pair of galoches (where would she wear them to?), you don't want to overwhelm a young neophyte with something terribly complicated and meaningful that would feel out of place, yet without resorting to something that is a condescending cliché either. Going through very broad generalisations, it seems that younger women are rather averse to perfumey, face-powdery or floral fragrances as a rule (with the exception of tropical tiare and gardenia fragrances, it seems), prefering more culinary notes of vanilla, almond, tea and the like, or more abstract compositions that smell "out of the shower"/"clean" (those are usually combinations of various musks with synthetic florals or aldehydes). Younger men seem to be wanting to "blend in" (standing out takes either consious effort or the maturing of age), so a quick look through Sephora's best-seller list might provide some pointers to the general direction if not specific scents ~because you wouldn't want to buy what everyone else is buying! Never mind that several fragrances smell so similar to each other anyway.

So how do you go about it? A little investigation into what the recipient is actually enjoying right now is highly recommended. This can come through casual chit-chat (and if you paid attention all along in the past you should be able to at least pinpoint some favorite smells which might serve as a little steering help), through direct asking of what they're currently wearing or through observation of what they do have in their homes on the dresser or the bathroom shelf. If the latter is more silently conductive, pay attention that some bottles might have pride of place simply due to their decorative value, their prestige or simply because they were gifts by beloved people, yet they remain mostly unused (you don't want to repeat that mistake, do you?). Try to determine which of those fragrances get some actual use. If you can, do a comparative test with testers at the store, so you can pinpoint if you have actually smelled them wearing them. Who knows, you might find some little gems for yourself too, in the process!

If your direct question provides a direct answer à la "I am wearing Chanel No.5", there is the pressing tempetation to capitulate and buy just that. Try to resist acting upon it in the literal sense of buying another bottle of that fragrance. Replenishing a diminished stash might devalue the fragrance experience somewhat by unconsiously comparing it to refilling the fridge with milk. It doesn't make for the mingle of joyful surprise and guaranteed satisfaction that a successful gift entails. One lovely idea of bypassing this obstacle might be to buy some of the ancillary products in the same line of the fragrance: Often women -and men- are reluctant to buy those themselves, as they see them as an indulgence that is harder to justify, especially in times of financial recession (those body lotions, fragrant shower gels and shaving foams are more expensive than the more generic products for the same use). This solves two problems: it makes for a gift that can't go wrong smell-wise and it offers a little element of surprise combined!

Another idea, a little more elaborate but not too difficult, might be to search for something along the same lines as the scent of established "like": Belonging to the same olfactory family, encompassing similar "notes", or generally being a comparable style. To get help in this more sophisticated task, you can get help at the counter, but perhaps more effectively you can research a bit yourself online. Fragrantica and Osmoz are databases which describe the olfactory families (citrus, floral, oriental, woody, aldehydic, chypre, fougère) and classify many popular fragrances in them, so you have a little steering help. If, in the meantime, you're unsure what those chypres or aldehydes you're stumbling upon are and how they smell our articles on Perfume Shrine might be of help. (just click on the links and scroll!)
Michael Edwards of the Fragrance Foundation comes to the rescure too. His incredible database Fragrances of the World for feminine and masculine fragrances respectively, allows you to search for the fragrance you want to compare by its initial (how much simpler can you get!) and then shows you similar fragrances to it. It contains mainstream brands, classic fragrances, niche perfumes, as well as drugstore ones and discontinued scents which might have been otherwise obscure to decode. Very handy! Basenotes is another huge database of fragrances which lists fragrance "notes": you can search the desired fragrance of choice and compare and contrast notes of others; or better yet run them through their system by typing the ones you're interested in, in the appropriate box, separated by a comma (say: tobacco, hay, leather) ~five seconds later they will present you with several choices to choose from, masculine or feminine, whatever you prefer. For instance, these are the choices I got by randomly typing orange blossom, rose, tuberose, amber: A Demi-mot by Galimard, Trussardi Action Donna, Darling II by Fabergé, Magical Romance by Anna Sui, New York Nights by Girard, Razala by Ayala Moriel and Spellbound by Estée Lauder. You can do the same thing on the Fragrantica site as well.

Sometimes, among perfume afficionados, there is the seemingly practical advice of buying a sampler pack from Sephora to let the recipient of your gift choose what they like themselves, accompanied by a gift certificate to go on and buy that fragrance later on. Although this seems like a wonderful solution to the above dilemmas on shopping for fragrance for someone else, the recipient unless a hardcore perfumista/perfumisto is left with no goody bag to unwrap. A disappointing feeling, despite your better intentions... To avoid that, yet guarantee a successful purchase, you can buy whatever you have narrowed it down to and then ask the sales associate at the shop to include a sample vial of said fragrance inside the gift packaging, so that the giftee can sample the fragrance at the leisure of their home without ruining the packaging (this is especially important for the European market that does not accept returns of opened products, unless clearly defective). If you can, include a couple of samples of fragrances available in the same store, so that if the first is not as successful, maybe it will give them ideas and the return will be easy and enjoyable. It's generally a good idea to ask if returns are acceptable anyway and the specific terms of those returns -a simple return receipt, the time-frame in which it can be done etc.- and let the recipient know about them (they wouldn't ask you themselves out of politeness). This is especially important for men who often feel intimidated in department stores and boutiques and would rather let that pretty flacon gather dust than venture into that sea of unknown. If you suspect this is the case and it's someone close, offer to do it for them or accompany them and do some sniffing together. This is also a lovely bonding experience for couples (and eye-opening too, I might add).

Whatever you do remember another rule of thumb: Most people have not even heard of niche brands and no matter how much you want to introduce them to the delectable joys of Serge Lutens, Frédéric Malle or the newest wonder of Comme des Garcons for H&M, their products might smell weird to them and the brand recognisability will be nil (I realize that if you're reading Perfume Shrine you're probably beyond that, wearing what you like and perhaps even embracing the lure of the "being in the know" factor, but the average person is still swayed by what they perceive as "prestige" ~brands such as Chanel, Lancôme, Hermès, Guerlain, Christian Dior, Bulgari, Givenchy, Yves Saint Laurent et al have still a lot of covetability cachet in them).

Last but not least, some of the most popular and generally well-liked fragrances across the boards you're less likely to get wrong with (but there's no 100% guarantee!) include the following:
For women: Chanel Coco Mademoiselle, Prada Infusion d'Iris, Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue, Stella McCartney Stella, Burberry Brit, Christian Dior Hypnotic Poison, Philosophy Amazing Grace.
For men: Guerlain Vetiver, Gendarme by Gendarme, Armani Mania for men, Thierry Mugler Cologne, Gucci pour Homme, Gucci Envy pour homme, Prada Infusion d'Homme, Rochas Man, Paco Rabanne XS, Dior Eau Sauvage, Cerruti 1881, Terre d'Hermès.

Good luck shopping and remember, it's the thought that counts!

Related reading on Perfume Shrine: Christmas 08 Gift Ideas part 1
Pics from top via Flickr by 99elledge, DonnaGreyson and *an_drea.

Saturday, December 6, 2008

Basenotes Fragrance Awards

Basenotes, a huge online fragrance community, have announced the opening of their annual consumer-led awards. The Annual Basenotes Fragrance Awards offer the site's 300,000 monthly visitors a chance to vote for a range of products across twelve categories including both feminine and masculine fragrances. The Annual Basenotes Fragrance Awards traditionally offers a prize to a randomly selected voter and this year that prize is a $250 gift certificate to spend on a selection of the thousands of products available at FragranceNet.com's online store. Voting for the awards is open now until 21st January 2009. Votes should be registered at Basenotes. This year the categories include a new best home fragrance, while you can vote for only the ones you want:

Best new fragrance (Masculine and Feminine)
Best overall fragrance (Masculine and Feminine)
Best fragrance for day (Masculine and Feminine)
Best fragrance for evening (Masculine and Feminine)
Best fragrance packaging (Masculine and Feminine)
Best designer, mainstream or fine fragrance (Masculine and Feminine)
Best niche, independent, artisan or boutique fragrance (Masculine and Feminine)
Best mass-market, drugstore, budget or direct-sell fragrance (Masculine and Feminine)
Best celebrity fragrance (Masculine and Feminine)
Best fragrance house
Best home fragrance
Best fragrance blog
(via Basenotes press release).

You can vote for Perfume Shrine, if you wish, by registering on Basenotes (it's free!)

Fragrantica Perfume Blog Awards

It came to my attention purely by chance that Perfume Shrine has been nominated for the Fragrantica Best Fragrance Blogs Awards! (thanks to Maryel, who is obviously a satisfied lurker, for submitting us). Fragrantica is a big database for fragrances, houses and shopping info related to perfume and the goal of this exercise is "to collect all valuable blogs as our collective bookmarks[...]and also a good chance to get to know less popular but valuable blogs and promote them". (quote via Fragrantica site)

You can vote for Perfume Shrine till Monday, December 22nd, if you wish, following the Fragrantica Awards link. You have to register first (it's free!)

Friday, December 5, 2008

Guerlain Atuana: fragrance review and history of a vintage gem

If in the darkest moments of our urban stress we want to eschew European civilization and "everything that is artificial and conventional" to sail to the tropics instead in our own path to Utopia, Atuana by Guerlain could be our gateway without abandoning the indulgencies of the way of life we have become accustomed to. Atuona (and not Atuana) is the name of a small island in the Marquesas where French Post-Impressionist painter Eugène Henri Paul Gauguin(1848-1903) moved from his former residence in Tahiti and where he died in his Maison du Jouir on May 9, 1903, having spent a total of ten years in self-exile in French Polynesia.
In 1952 Jacques Guerlain dedicated Atuana the fragrance to the French painter who went to the South Seas to devote his time and life to painting. After all, he was not the only one to be inspired by the iconoclast broker agent-turned-painter: Noa Noa (after Gauguin's text describing a luminous season in Tahiti in 1891) was another fragrance redolent of the warm and fiery ambience of the tropics, circulating under Helena Rubinstein's name at the zenith of her career.

Inspired by the lush colourful Primitivist paintings by Gaugin with their red splashes among the green folliage and the ambery-toned flesh of the native women, Guerlain's Atuana, encased in a plush red box focused on the qualities of that hue: exuberance, passion, lively nature, raw power and thus indeed a sort of Primitivism. A leathery floriental perched on spicy carnation emerged, rolled into smooth nappa.
Although one can detect the leathery accents under the refreshing piquancy of little citric touches , in typical Guerlain fashion the fragrance evolves into a rich melody of florals lullabied into a sweet siesta, full of warm resins, where there is no place for bitterness or aloofness and every little thing smiles satisfied, at one with the world.
Atuana's 3 years senior Fleur de Feu, another floriental with spicy accents reminiscent of carnations, took a similar route, but there the base is more powdery, with no leather pungency. Both extoll the properties of the spicy palette that Poivre by Caron first opened up exhibiting a mature vibe of les parfums fourrure (perfumes to be worn with furs); what a contrast with Guerlain's Eau de cologne du jeune âge coming up in 1953, just one year later! Ode which followed in 1955 was a regression into mellower compositions, full of feminine, non agressive tonalities: rose and jasmine. But that time hadn't arrived yet when Atuana came out, a time when rich chypres reigned supreme. The dare of leather was permissible and therefore a luscious harmony materialized for the enjoyment of those who couldn't abandon their conventional life for the Great Escape.

Notes for Guerlain Atuana: bergamot, neroli, rose, jasmine, iris, amber.

The bottle of Atuana is the same as Fleur de Feu, made by Baccarat: a simple art-deco flacon of ribbed surface on a pedestral, inspired by the skyscrapers that defined the American urban landscape in the early 50s.
Atuana circulated as extrait de parfum and as Eau de Cologne, a concentration that despite current sensibilities was quite lasting. Out of production for several years, it's very rare to find, but it makes scarce appearences on online auctions, where it goes for as much as 950$. A tiny sample can be acquired (for a hefty price naturally) at The Perfumed Court.


Guerlain Atuana ad courtesy of parfumsdepub, Painting La Orana Maria by Paul Gauguin, courtesy of Wikipedia

Thursday, December 4, 2008

Christmas '08 Gift Ideas part 1

Christmas shopping is never easy as there are so many people vying for your attention and so many choices that somehow you end up confused and more stressed than you began. What should have been a relaxing and enjoyable experience becomes the frantic rush to get the medal award for best gifter of the year, and with the financial situation what it is, it's even more stressful and Utopian to think you can manage it all easily! Therefore, we aim to provide a little guiding into some good ideas for scent-related shopping that will satisfy everyone and in most cases won't break the bank.

This holiday season ring in the green by supporting an environmental organization while gifting a gorgeous, handmade botanical perfume to someone dear and close…perhaps even yourself! Sierra perfume by award winning artist and botanical perfumer Roxana Villa extols the virtues of nature and the spirit of the holidays: fresh citrus top notes leading into a conifer forest on an earthy bed of decomposing leaves. Majestic like the great evergreen trees it honors, Sierra is one of several in the line tied to an environmental foundation: A portion of the proceeds from the sale of the 7 gram flacon supports the Los Angeles organization TreePeople. The pure perfume extrait contained in a glass flacon retails for $150 and arrives in hand crocheted teal green pouch within a silk lined box. The fragrance also exists as a solid perfume, called Sierra Solid Gold ,expanding upon the primary theme of the liquid by including warm spice notes.($65, contained in an antique finished compact within a hand crocheted teal green pouch enclosed in a silk lined box). Available at illuminatedperfume.com

Bond no.9 have some more economical than usual ideas for Recession Gift giving that is not short on the glam-factor nevertheless.

The "Perfume Token":Solid-perfume compacts are a nice idea, especially for travelling and this is it (refillable too): you choose one of Bond' 6 most popular eaux de parfum ~Union Sqaure, Chinatown, Nuits de Noho, Scent of Peace of Wall Street~ and it has its own little white leather zipper case: $85.
The Soapboxes:
Soaps are classic gifts for hostesses: A set of four (Chelsea Flowers, Chinatown, Eau de New York and The Scent of Peace): $95. A lone soap bar, available in six of the best-selling scents (the boxed foursome, Nuits de Noho and Wall Street): $35.
Travellers' Candles:
A five-pack of Bond's most popular scents (Chelsea Flowers, Chinatown, Eau de New York, Nuits de Noho and The Scent of Peace) in glam case, each bearing the Bond No. 9 “token”: $95.
Holiday Bon Bon Pocket Sprays:
Eight pocket spray flacons, each containing a different New York neighborhood eau. They're small to have on-the-go and refillable: $130.
Available at the Bond no.9 Boutiques

If candles are your style but you never find presentable ones at a reasonable price, I have two that look seriously cool, have interesting smells and are 55$:
Burn Candle in Himalayan Black Tea emits soft scents of dark steeped assam tea leaves, golden tipped Darjeeling, dried Clementine peel tisane, smoky yerba mate, Malabar banji leaf chai and aromatic ceylon infusion blend together to create an illusion of entering Marriages Freres probably. Burn Candle in Mandarin Rind encompasses scents of pomelo, yuzu, mandarin rind, red currant, pomegranate, tangerine and musk blend together to create a festive atmosphere. They both burn for 100hours, which is perfect for the price.
Available at Pink Mascara. While you're there pick up those glorious danglies too, will you?

Often, you don't want to take the chance of choosing a fragrance for someone else: too risky! But Ayala Moriel Parfums had the perfect idea: a gift certificate for them to pick their own! They come in the form of gift cards (very cute) and can be customized for any budget. The giftee also receives a complementary fragrance consultation to help them find the best scent or samples from the Ayala Moriel perfume collection. Gift cards are posted on the website in values of $65 (the cost of a purse-roll-on), $110 (parfum extrait) and $550 (signature perfume), but if none of these numbers or gift ideas are what you have in mind, Ayala Moriel is happy to send you a PayPal request for the total amount you are interested in. There is also the option of sampler sets: sampler gift boxes, to be accompanied by a gift card. This way they can pick for themselves which scent they want after trying a few of the fragrances. An especially economic choice is the 8-sample package of the top-selling perfumes with a gift card of $65 (to go towards a purse-roll-on or any other purchase). Available at Ayala Moriel Parfums

Also time to take advantage of discounts:Online decanter and seller of niche lines's bottle The Posh Peasant is having a 20% off everythingfrom December 3rd through December 12th with discount code THANKYOU08.
And Anya's Garden all-natural Perfumes and natural Essences is hosting a 25% discount for our readers with code PERFUMESHRINE. Click Anya's Garden site for choices.


Pics courtesy of Roxana Villa, Bond no.8, pinkmascara.com, ayalamoriel.com
*Disclaimer: The Perfume Shrine is not affiliated with any of the above companies.

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