Parfum d'Empire Wazamba: fragrance review

In the words of Canadian psychologist Albert Bandura "most human behaviour is learned observationally through modeling". And nowhere is this more cognitively apparent than in the beauty and sensual business in which perfumery holds an esteemed place. Wazamba by Parfum d'Empire is a prime example of the developmental incline which the niche house established by Corsican Marc-Antoine Corticchiato~assisted to by Elisabeth de Feydeau~ has been for a while now, influenced and influencing through modeling.

The resounding success of Ambre Russe, Cuir Ottoman and Osmanthus Interdite are a small testament to the power of quality materials, conceptual storylines (the recreation of the atmosphere of great empires of the past, influencing the Romea d'Ameor line as well) and an aesthetic focus which diverts from the torpid patcho-syrupy jingles of so many new releases to produce baroque, complex and refined sonatas.

In Wazamba, the name doesn't evoke a peruqued era with fake beauty marks travelling the rosy cheeks of decadent and unwahsed aristocrats, nor Tsardoms of fierce despotism drenched in samovars' inky liquid and potato grain liquor. Instead it is inspired by “a sistrum used in the rituals of West Africa” possessing a “heavy sound, full and deep” which one could imagine played by the regal silhouettes of Modigliani-like figures in the savanna evening bonfires. Perhaps a little imaginatively conceived, as the mysterious instrument is nowhere to be found (there is wazimbo though!), yet the merit of the composition more than surpasses the want of accuracy in the press release. A Lutensian web is weaved around almost every niche release, his pioneer work being the instigator in large part (excluding L'Artisan, Goutal and Diptyque who always travelled their own path). Parfum d'Empire is no exception, yet the familiarity is not contrite nor bellicose, but proud in itself.

Parfum d'Empire Wazamba travels the new route of conifers, surely pre-empting along with Fille en Aiguilles, a revisited appreciation for balsamic notes which I predict we will be seeing more of in the future: fir balsam, pine needles, cypress sap...Lubin's Idole and Black Cashmere by Donna Karan were incorporating some warmth and fir notes with their incense a few years ago and Zagorsk from the Incense series by Comme des Garcons was the first to marry pine with incense. But in Wazamba the synergy is more complicated, very interesting and sweeter. The burning, pyrocaustic frankincense of Serge Noire and Essence de John Galliano appears softly pettering out to ashy-powdery, slightly sweet notes (opoponax and the sensuality of labdanum). Yet the initial impression and one of the predominent notes on my skin is ~surprisingly enough but pleasurably so~ apple; a red, juicy and ripe variety that is miles away from the sanitary, upbeat, acid green and detergent-like apple in shampoos and fine fragrance alike in later years! The combination of this apple note along with long-lasting, delectable myrrh is joined at the hip via the cinnamon nuance that both materials evoke; one through allusion, the other through illusion. Yet Wazamba isn't spicy, nor is it gourmand despite its sweetness. Neither is it fancy, sophisticated, elegant or conventionally sexy and that's perfectly all right. The feeling it evokes is one of unadulterated, raw beauty: It relies on a forest of aromatic pine needles, laid out in an African sunset, when climbing the nearby knoll your hands are almost touching the copper clouds.



Notes for Parfum d'Empire Wazamba: Somalian incense, Kenyan myrrh, Ethiopian opoponax, Indian sandalwood, Moroccan cypress, labdanum, apple, fir balsam

Parfum d'Empire Wazamba is available in Eau de Parfum in 50ml/1.7 and 100ml/3.4oz spray bottles at Luckyscent and Aus Liebe zum Duft, as well as in the men's department of Le Printemps and the Old England store (corner of the rue Scribe and boulevard des Capucines) in Paris.

Related reading on Perfume Shrine: Incense Series, Pine scents

Pics from the postcard book African Ceremonies by Beckwith and Fisher via cas1.elis.ugent.be and salon.com.
Photo of Parfum d'Empire Wazamba bottle © by Elena Vosnaki.

Roundup of Upcoming Niche Releases: Herve Domar, Patricia de Nicolai, Parfum d'Empire

Despite several brands having a hard time coping with the diminished spending on luxury items there are new fragrances croping up like usual: some of them are debuting from brands fledging on the perfumery sector, others are new offerings from well-established niche players. Take some note of the following upcoming releases in niche.

Hervé Domar (optician jeweller from Paris) is issuing 9 new fragrances uniting precious stones ~naturally~ with flowers and scents (a concept which has been explored by Durbano and Bulgari among others) to commemorate his 20 years in business. The creations however have been developed by Drom fragrances, a producing company of prestigious output and with the help of Catherine Disdet and Pierre Dinand. Diamant Noir celebrates amber and incense, Diamant Brun is centered around the flower of patchouli, and Diamand Blanc shines with the lustre of rose. Grenat is dedicated to orange and clementines, Rubis interprets the sensual tuberose and Saphir tells tales of lillies. Tourmaline is dedicated to the same-hued plant of lavender, Tanzanite to cloves while Emerald is tittilating with coffee notes.
Eau de parfum, vaporisateur 50ml, 65€ and refill 200ml, 195€. And 2 Candles (Or Noir with amber incense and Or Rouge with tuberose): 190g, 42€Find H.Domar at Tel: +33146338899, Address:48 Rue Dauphine 75006 Visit the official site here and order through the online boutique. The products are also available at the boutiques By Terry (the famous make-up artist and creator) and there is a personalised service available so your bottles and candles look your own and no one else's (great idea for a gift!)

Patricia de Nicolai, a small Parisian brand that is well known among aficonados for the top quality of the products offered, is coming up with Patchouli pour Homme, a rendition that will fill the void in the line-up. The new masculine will feature notes of orange, rose, patchouli, cedarwood, vanilla and tonka bean. "As far as I’m concerned, it came out right: the note is powerful, yet chic and distinguished too. What’s more, it’s quite unusual, so it gets noticed... and remembered. " said P.d.Nicolai herself. The initial impressions from Basenotes members are: "Nicolai's Patchouli is quite unique in the universe of Patchouli fragrances, because it hasn't the sometimes sweaty, carnal note typical for many other patch frags. It's quite spicy with a nice leather / amber note in the base and a well-mannered, not overly loud patchouli in the background. Very good sillage and longevity. (via Gerald)
A new women's scent is in the works as well, based on Iris Musk.

Parfum d'Empire has come out with two new offerings, 3 Fleurs and Wazamba. 3 Fleurs is a towering flowering inspired by love tales of civilizations past: Galbanum, crisp mint, an abundance of rose, the gauzy whiteness of jasmine, and the wildness of tuberose reinforced by a cocktail of white musk. Wazamba on the other hand evokes the sacred dimension of an inner voyage, focused on such esoteric ingredients as Somalian incense, Kenyan myrrh, Ethiopian opoponax, Indian sandalwood, and Moroccan cypress. Available through First in Fragrance and Luckyscent.

Also don't forget the scents we have already reported on [click the links for reviews and info]: L'Artisan Al Oudh, Havana Vanille and the Mon Numéro one-offs, La Maison Francis Kurkdjian scents, Calamity J by Juliette Has a Gun, Fille en Aiguilles and Fourreau Noir by Serge Lutens, Boise Torride by Guerlain Magnolia Nobile by Aqua di Parma, Vanilla & Anise by Jo Malone.