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Friday, October 12, 2012

Tableau de Parfums Loretta: fragrance review & draw

You might have heard that Loretta, the newest fragrant baby arising from the collaboration of perfumer Andy Tauer & film-maker Brian Pera, is a tuberose-centered floral; and yet smelling it you realize that on face value it's inscrutable. This tuberose, although natural and vibrant, resembles nothing of the moth love & hate relationship of tuberoses of reference (like Tubereuse Criminelle by Lutens or Carnal Flower by F.Malle) with the exception of Piguet's Fracas. You have to smell it to believe it, because we're dealing with an atypical example, much like its creator is an atypical perfumer who has deservedly gained a cult status.


The enigmatic scent: a tuberose unlike any other

Like Fracas (and yet also unlike it) Loretta is built on a white flowers given a resolutely candied, fruity veneer that is creamy, and Tauer embraces that note with lactonic woods that remind me of some modern version of sandalwood, with the liquor like tonalities of rose that Andy likes so, plus a touch of cardamom or nutmeg. The olfactory impression of this candied, fruity floralcy is the synergy of the banana note in ylang ylang with treacly and very diffusive orange blossom along with a grape and berries touch (methyl anthranilate, the thing that made L'Heure Bleue and Narcisse Noir so compelling); this gives a sweet, rotting flesh mystery that is tantalizing in a perfume.
This peculiar combination personally reminds me of the tuberose hiding inside the heart of Dior's original Poison from the 1980s: the "monster" inside is nothing compared to the buttressing via an overdose of musks and woods and yes, grape and berry notes. The composition is more than its description and somewhat less too, a cipher. Which nicely brings us full circle to Loretta, as this Rubik's Cube is built upon a succession of complimentary notes that defuse each other into unison. This isn't just random but relies on careful, painstaking attention from the perfumer; the common thread between grape and berry is the component also present in tuberose and ylang ylang essences.
Although the official notes mention aldehydes, the effect here is unlike classics of the genre and serves rather as the building block of a Schiff's base (A perfumer's "tool", with some technical challenges built in as well). In plain English, don't expect a sparkling, citrusy, soapy-smelling or metallic Chanel No.5, YSL Rive Gauche or Madame Rochas nuance here; Loretta is in a class of its own.

Comparison with Miriam 

Contrary to Tableau de Parfums Miriam, with its retro soapy, aldehydic halo ~to correspond with the silvery sheen of the protagonist Anne Magnuson, and her reticent, elegant aura~ the Loretta fragrance is a young and contemporary creature, a cleaning lady with sexual fantasies enacted behind closed doors; we're talking about a cleaning lady with a supreme taste in perfume, apparently! Loretta is hard to miss (it radiates and lasts very well, like all Tauer perfumes) and very difficult not to fall in love with, even for tuberose phobics.



The where, the how, the when, the how much

Tableau de Parfums is an ongoing collaboration between Tauer and filmmaker Brian Pera and Loretta is its latest installment, after the Miriam fragrance. The Tableau perfumes are portraits inspired by the shorts of Pera’s ongoing film series, Woman’s Picture (You can find out everything about the whole thing on www.evelynavenue.com).

The Loretta fragrance includes fragrant notes of tuberose absolute, aldehydes, rose absolute, orange blossom and woods.

For those in LA, the Scent Bar will be holding a launch party for the fragrance for the official launch on October 19th.
Loretta in the Tableau de Parfums series will be available in 50 ml Eau de Parfum concentration, packaged with a DVD and film poster ($160) or in a 7 ml Travel spray ($40) at evelynavenue.com and select stockists.

 Andy below presents Loretta in the Pitti exhibition in Florence via the Basenotes/Youtube.

 

You can also peek at an older interview of Tauer and Pera on FragranceScout.

For our readers, I have 5 deluxe samples of the new Loretta perfume to give away. Just enter a comment and you're eligible. Draw is open till Monday Oct 15th midnight. Draw is now closed, thank you for participating!

 In the interests of disclosure I was sent samples for the giveaway by the perfumer himself

109 comments:

  1. Thanks for the draw.

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  2. Julia15:54

    I have Tauer's L'air du desert... and I am intrigued to smell more of his perfumes. Would love to try Loretta. Thanks!

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  3. I would love to be entered in the draw. Thank you so much!

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  4. I am so intrigued by this! Having fallen hard for Carnal Flower this summer, I'm eager to continue exploring other Tuberose fragrances. Thanks for the chance to win a sample!

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  5. Thank you for the chance to win a sample of a Tauer perfume. I have a great respect for AT and his creations, and very curious to smell what he does w/ tuberose

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  6. Thank you for the chance to win a sample!

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  7. Lala16:36

    Tuberose is the vixen of flowers, and I can never get enough of it. Thank you for the drawing.

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  8. bodrell16:37

    Hmm. I'm intrigued by your comment about Schiff base. Are you saying the aldehydes react with other components of the perfume? I have often wondered the true chemical effects of aging a perfume, and what types of reactions take place during the process.

    And please enter me in the drawing.

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  9. Thanks for the draw. I've never tried a Tauer perfume and I love tuberose so I am extremely interested in this one.

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  10. I love Andy's work! Must try this one as well

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  11. blanc18:07

    Loretta might be interesting!

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  12. Dubaiscents18:14

    I love Andy's work and tuberose so I can't wait to try this one!

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  13. Gabry18:18

    I smell Loretta at Pitti Fragranze.....gorgeous!

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  14. Am dying to try this since I love tuberose and am a fan of Andy's. Thanks for the draw!!

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  15. I was very impressed with Miriam, and am intrigued to try Loretta, especially since I have a newfound liking for tuberose! Thanks for entering me in the drawing.

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  16. Am dying to try this. Thanks for the draw

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  17. Yay, Loretta! Can't wait to try out this tuberose!Thank you for the draw!

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  18. I am always interested in trying one of Andy's creations. Or I should say, collaborations. Brian is a discerning perfumista!

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  19. Thanks for the draw!

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  20. ElizabethC20:19

    Would love to try Loretta! Sounds wonderful and I always enjoy Tauer perfumes!

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  21. Anonymous20:23

    I'm really enjoying this collaboration project between Andy Tauer and Brian Pera.

    I adore Miriam and, while I understand from your review that Loretta is very different from that, I'd love to try what the "cleaning lady with superb taste in perfume" is wearing.

    Thanbks for the draw opportunity.

    -- Lindaloo

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  22. Anonymous20:28

    I would like to join, thx. Alica - alica at cleis dot net

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  23. Well... I'm participating ))

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  24. I love Andy Tauer´s style and vision, and look forward to Loretta! Thanks for the draw.

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  25. MariaA21:08

    I love Andy's work, apart from being an excellent parfumeur he is the kindest perfumeur! I am sure this one will be lovely as well!! Thank you for the draw!

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  26. Great! I like Loretta and I'd love to receive a sample. Hope to be lucky this time!

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  27. Nina Z23:28

    I'd love a chance to experience this fragrance!

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  28. jojo23:50

    I'd like to try! Because, it is tubereuse scent!!

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  29. I've tried Miriam and I really liked it, it's so classy and vintage, I would like to try this one too, I'm sure that it's gorgeous!

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  30. I would love to try this one as I love several of Andy Tauer's scents. Thanks for the drawing.

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  31. Am totally in love with Miriam. It would interest me to try Loretta. Please enter me into the draw. Thank you.

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  32. Joaquim00:24

    Tuberose by Andy Tauer, I just NEED to try this one.
    Thanks for the draw!!

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  33. Thank you for the drawing!

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  34. Jackie b01:02

    Tuberose has always been challenging for me, but Andy showed me a new way of looking at rose, so I would love to be in the draw for this...
    Thanks!

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  35. Enter me in the drawing, I have a small sample of one of his perfumes and it smells good.

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  36. when i heard about this collaboration, it reminded me of the movie Perfume: the story of a murder, i would like more artistic collaborations between artists and perfumers but not the horrible celebrities trend where every movie is accompanied by perfume

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  37. It would be wonderful to try out this fragrance. Enter me in the drawing ...

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  38. scottie02:33

    I would love to try this one- it sounds pretty amazing!
    Thanks for the draw!

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  39. Anonymous03:05

    Miriam is a wonderful perfume. Loretta sounds like her younger, equally gorgeous sister. Would love to try this one. Thank you for the draw!

    TaffyJ

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  40. I would love to try this one, loved his lonestar memories... Thanks for the draw!

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  41. Anonymous03:55

    I wish I lived by the Scent Bar. I'd like to try this one!

    -Lily

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  42. Anonymous04:25

    Sounds lovely and thanks for the draw!

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  43. Hello! I've started to explore Andy's perfumes lately, and even his little samples boxes are lovely! He's got a great blog too! It's a great way to learn more about perfume making, the behind the scene stuff! I quite like that!

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  44. Thanks for the draw! I've always been fascinated by fragrances based around tuberose. Would love to try this one!

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  45. I imagine people in a cinema watching a film and a deep tuberose smell floating in the air.........You may say I'm a dreamer!

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  46. would like very much to try this
    I love Andy's creations and don't like "big" tub's
    which will prevail?...
    thanks for the draw

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  47. Oh, I am so happy for this draw! I love tuberose, and I love everything, that Andy Tauer creates. He is a "atypical perfumer" as you've mentioned, yes a genius! :)

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  48. Thanks for the draw-would love the opportunity to try this!

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  49. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  50. brie11:30

    I am very curious about this one...thank you for the draw!

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  51. Sassa13:16

    Thanks for this, love Tauer scents!

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  52. Latifah13:23

    I am very curious about this scent. I am intrigued by the use of ripened fruit. As is the case with Byredo's Pulp, which I find strangely mesmerizing. Ripened fruit and tuberose... It really does sound enchanting. Thanks for the opportunity.

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  53. Still haven't tried anything from this line, but the whole idea (movie+perfume) is cool. Thanks for the draw. Hopefully I will get the chance to try/see it. :D

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  54. I'm positively aching to try Loretta. No access to any Tauers here so this is a dream. Thank you for the opportunity!

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  55. Simone B13:59

    As a tuberose lover, and an admirer of Andy Tauer's work, I can't wait to smell Loretta.
    I also think that pairing perfume and movies is such an inspired, unusual and wonderful idea. Two of my favorite things combined!
    Thank you and Andy for the draw!

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  56. I would love to try Loretta! I'm a big fan of Tauer's work. I have Miriam, and have been anxiously awaiting the next story in this project! thank you for the draw!

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  57. please enter me in the drawing Loretta sounds lovely!

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  58. elzsmelz16:06

    I would love to be entered into the draw. This sounds like perfection in a bottle!

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  59. Loretta sounds lovely. Thanks for the draw.

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  60. Sounds lovely! Oct 15 is my birthday coincidently! :)

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  61. I love tuberose! His marketing is unique!

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  62. SaleMoustachu17:13

    I love tuberose scents! This one seems beautiful.

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  63. RebG18:03


    I have been having an affair this past summer with tuberose. I am now addicted to the scent. Thanks to you I have discovered Carnal Flower. And others aaaah! I can smell tuberose just by thinking of it. I would love to sniff Andy Tauer new potion Loretta. Please enter me in the draw.

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  64. Hannah18:57

    It sounds lovely! Thanks for the draw

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  65. I would really love to try this scent! :D

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  66. Anonymous19:49

    Sounds wonderful.

    quimerula (at) hotmail (dot) com

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  67. What a fantastic drawing offer. Thank you. I would love to find a rose scent to love. I'm currently smitten with Shiseido's White Rose, which as I got as a free sample. I put it in, forget about it, and then find myself stopping and trying to figure out where the wonderful scent is from. Yes, I sometimes spin in the effort.

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  68. I adore all of Andy's perfumes.It's hard to pick a favorite.The latest I'm enjoying is Une Rose Chypree and as Summer has faded into fall I like Orange star with it's bright orange and orange blossom note that melts into his woody incense base.He's a genius.I would love to try Loretta.Thanks for the draw!

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  69. oooh, please enter me in the drawing! i love andy tauer perfumes!

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  70. I'd love to try! :)

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  71. I absolutely LOVE tuberose! I guess you could call me a tuberophile. Loretta sounds awesome! Thanks for the draw!

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  72. I's love to try Loretta, I've already travelsprays of Miriam and Dark Passage-a favorite!

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  73. The tableau series are way too expensive for me to try I'm afraid. And what's with the bottle and graphics? Why so anti-Tauer?

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  74. That would be awesome to try Loretta. Miriam is really interesting and so is probably Loretta.

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  75. Anonymous14:57


    Sounds lovely! Please, enter me in the draw.
    :Maltesia

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  76. Looking forward to Loretta when she arrives in the U.S.!

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  77. Lynne Marie16:35

    I'm still learning my way around white flowers - especially tuberose and I love so many Tauer perfumes, I am anxious to smell this. His way with scents is just brilliant and hugely evocative. Whenever I miss the sagebrush desert of Northern California, all I have to do is sniff Lonestar Memories! Thanks so much for the draw!

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  78. Loretta sounds wonderful! Thanks for the draw!

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  79. Liked Miriam and I am waiting for this chapter! Thank you for the chance!

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  80. Liked Miriam and I am waiting for this chapter! Thank you for the chance!

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  81. Thanks for the draw!

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  82. AnnE01:07

    Well, I'm a fan of Andy's without a doubt, but I'm also a confirmed "tuberose phobic," but since you say even I will like it, I would like to be entered in your draw. It sounds incredible, thanks!

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  83. 30 Roses01:14

    I've heard good things about this one and would love to try it!

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  84. Miss Heliotrope01:15

    I knew a Loretta at school - this is so not like her.

    Would love to be able to explore this scent further.

    Thank you

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  85. I do dig tuberose...but, man, it lingers. If I should win the draw, I will test and share with my tuberose-loving friend.

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  86. It would be nice to experience it, out of professional interest as well. I wonder whether is or will be available in Athens in the immediate future. Have no clue.

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  87. It definitely sounds lovely! Thanks for the chance to try it! :)

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  88. Zazie09:29

    Thanks for the draw!
    I am very curious about Loretta: I really love the project and the idea of fragrances inspired by movie characters.
    I liked Miriam a lot...and love tuberose...

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  89. Julz09:34

    As much as I thought Miriam was an excellent composition, & very fitting to the part and character it was meant to. Unfortunately it was just far too #5-ish for me to enjoy personally. - I'm hoping I'll have better luck with Loretta (!?) ... Thanx for the draw ! :)

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  90. Kimber09:40

    Ooh yes please, a Tauer Tuberose is a no-brainer must-try surely !? ... Please enter me into the draw.

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  91. Merlin12:32

    I would love to find a Tuberose that makes me happy. I didn't like Tuberose Criminelle (though the opening was nice), or Truth or Dare. I am on the fence with Fracas...

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  92. Anonymous14:08

    Kate said:
    I live in a small town, in a country, where Andy Tauer is almost unknown..... Sadly. I am very lucky, 'cose one of my friends gave some samples before, now I know L'air de desert M., Le Maroc pour elle and Zeta. That would be sooooo nice to own one of those Loretta samples !!!

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  93. Cheryl14:09

    Fracas is a bit too sweet for me,
    Noix de Tubereuse a bit too syrupy.
    The thought of tuberose in Andy's hands feels like the quest is over.

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  94. Tubey in every way shape or form - I love it all.

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  95. Thanks for the draw and the great review! I can't wait to try this one.

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  96. William17:09

    As a big fan of Andy Tauer's work, I would love to try Loretta. Thanks for the draw.

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  97. Maureen17:45

    I liked Miriam very much and would love to try Loretta. Thanks for the draw.

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  98. Thanks for the draw. I love Andy's work and this sounds like a must try.

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  99. Yay! I love tuberose and I'm excited to try everything Andy does.

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  100. Gisela19:50

    Miriam is wonderful, can't wait to smell Loretta.

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  101. mariablogrom20:47

    That's a tuberose I'll definetly try!

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  102. Anonymous02:41

    hi. i'd love to sample this one. please enter me, too!

    cheers,
    minette

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  103. Siiimo20:12

    I like the Evelyn avenue project: Miriam was really a different kind of launch and a different kind of perfume with respect to what one sees nowadays...
    As a lover of tuberose Loretta (the perfume) intrigues me even more, though I doubt Loretta (the character) would replace Miriam in my affections... Can't wait to see the movie!

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  104. lilacskin20:25

    sounds truly lovely. i would love a sample...

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  105. This scent sounds intriguing. Thanks for this draw.

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  106. Do you know if this is available in the UK? I am a writer by the name of Loretta! It would be a fabulous perfume for me. I'd love to wear a perfume which is called by my own name.

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  107. Hi Loretta!

    That would be so cool!

    Do email Tauer himself (who is based in Switzerland, but sells perfume through his site internationally) at perfumer@tauerperfumes.com and see what he can say about this (or if he can send perfume to you directly).
    His creations are highly recommended. ;-)

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