Saturday, May 21, 2011

Chanel to Launch Les Exclusifs Jersey & Chanel No.19 Poudre flanker

It was a matter of being due at Chanel: Chanel No.19 is such a revered classic (and a very popular mature woman choice in my country) that it would be a misstep not to exploit this by rendering a new flanker, aimed at the younger audiences who might be introduced to the brand of No.19 via that gateway.
Enter No.19 Poudré, the latest mainstream fragrance by Chanel, as revealed in a lengthy interview by Jacques Polge on Women's Wear Daily, which will hit the stores in the summer of 2011.

The composition, much like Cristalle Eau Verte did for Cristalle and Eau Premiere did for No.5, will highlight the lighter, more diaphanous elements in the formula, with the lately popular veil of modernised, sheer powder accord (as in Love,Chloé and Esprit d'Oscar). The powdery effect will be rendered through novel musks plus iris, an already major component of the classic No.19. According to veteran perfumer Jacques Polge who is only the third head perfumer for Chanel, since 1978:
"We've found some new musks that are very interesting, and we're working a lot at the moment on iris, which is a very important ingredient in No.19 Poudré. We have our plantations in Grasse, with rose and jasmine, and we're trying to find new qualities in those. But we're also trying to reproduce what was done 40 years ago, that nobody does anymore".
Other ingredients featured prominently in No.19 Poudré besides iris and musk are jasmine and neroli. The concentration is Eau de Parfum, as shown on the bottle.

My personal view on the new flanker launch? It's dubious whether classicists will be pleased by the new No.19 flanker, but it does sound like it will be heavy on those "novel" musks and iris (probably boosted by synth alternatives as well) to project at a powdery pitch. Powdery is a new trend in the market which would have fans of the older version (I'm one of them) not too mad at the new.
Who knows? A flanker usually means the continuation of a brand: I would like to see the No.19 brand going rather than being left behind in the wake of more popular things.

As to Jersey, it is the name of the upcoming Chanel Les Exclusifs, joining Beige, Sycomore, 31 Rue Cambon, 28 La Pausa, Coromandel, Eau de Cologne, Bel Respiro, No.18, Bois des Iles, Cuir de Russie, Gardenia and No.22. [links open up reviews of respective scents]. The name had been trademarked a long while ago, as we rgularly predict trends on these pages based on that, and it remains to be seen what treatment the masterminds of Jacques Polges and Chris Sheldrake are envisioning this emblematic fabric of Coco Chanel ~which made her famous (and infamous)~ will translate into. Referencing couture through fragrance is not unknown to Chanel. If we're allowed a little deliberation, a white floral is missing from the Exclusifs line. Or specifically a magnolia, one of the latest notes du jour, begging for a luxury spin.
Edit to add: Preliminary testing suggests Chanel Les Exclusifs Jersey is a clean fragrance with notes of lavender, vanilla and white musks. We will update with a full review.

Release dates for Chanel No.19 Poudré are 1st of June for London (on preview at Selfridges) and 15 days later for the rest of the UK and Europe, available at major department stores.
Chanes Les Exclusifs Jersey will hit stores in autumn 2011 as part of the Chanel boutiques circuit and online at the US store.

thanks to AlbertCA for bringing this to my attention, pic via Grazia scan online


  1. Ahhh No.19! It was one of my favorites many years ago, although I ended up settling No.5 as my jus of choice for a very, very, long time. Now I jump around and experiment with other fragrances. Over the summer, I took a sniff of No.19 at a Macy's counter and I was slapped with a cheap harshness (NOT the way I remembered it), I would love to revisit with a fresh bottle of No19.

  2. Fiordiligi14:30

    I have actually sniffed No 19 Poudre this morning! Seems to be much softer and less green, and, dare I say it, aimed at the younger end of the market. It seems to be in the same vein as the recent No 5 variations. I imagine it will be a popular fragrance for this summer.

  3. Anonymous15:18

    I am a big fan of No. 19 in vintage EdT, and also recently discovered that I rather like the rosier, softer EdP. (The parfum, not so much. I don't know why. I usually love vintage parfum.) I think I'd like to smell the 19 Poudre - and you're right, it's a very good thing that No. 19 has a flanker and might be expected to continue living...

  4. Anonymous15:50

    I can't help linking "Chanel" and "Jersey" to the Channel Island Jersey, which celebrates its self-proclaimed status as "The Floral Island" in June.

    Perhaps the new fragrance will encapsulate the most sunny and scented micro-climate of the island too, as a happy coincidence?

    Just thinking aloud - Lillee/Lily Langtry was "the Jersey Lily" so the white floral association with Jersey makes good sense in historic terms.

    It'll be interesting to try "Jersey" and learn what Chanel's thinkers concoct. Plenty of food for thought!

    cheerio, Anna in Edinburgh

  5. Anonymous17:05

    I love 19, and can't wait to sniff the new spin...

  6. interesting post :0 I just exchange one of my flacon for a No 19 !!
    so i am curious already for the flanker.
    me curious also...who won the ESPRIT D'OSCAR ? *^_^*

  7. Chanel No. 19 Poudre sounds like the musks and iris of Serge Lutens Bas de Soie.

  8. TFC,

    as with everything, things change and sometimes for the worse for some classics :-(
    How funny you saying testing it in the summer, as I find that would be the ideal time for it (I reserve No.19 for summer, it's cooling to me). Pity it was ruined for you...

    I am happy to see a flanker though, because it means continuation of the classic rather than demise.

  9. D,

    thank you ever so much for relaying first hand experience.

    Is it then better than Cristalle Eau Verte(which was more sour than green as the name would imply)?

  10. M,

    I love the vintage edt as well (and some of the more recent, albeit not very latest edt versions as well).
    The edp is heavier on rose powder, the edt more on greens, leather and iris powder. The parfum is the most leathery of them all. Could it be it?

    Yeah, not facing the axe is a great thing. ;-)

  11. Anna,

    what a lovely piece of information! It all ties in exceptionally well.
    I hope that I am proven right. By process of elimination there is some logic to my theory I believe. Jersey Lily might even me a...lily! Imagine that. I would love a spicy floral from Chanel. :-)

  12. D,

    I love No.19 as well and hope that the new one isn't a total depart, but rather a good "introductory" scent for the budding perfumistas.

  13. V,

    ah, great serendipity!

    Draw winner coming up on next post. ;-)

  14. Emma,

    very succinct and perceptive observation! You're absolutely right!

  15. Anonymous21:47

    these sound exciting! especially the no. 19 poudre. i love no. 19, but it's right on the edge of being too much and a touch suffocating, so i might be a perfect candidate for the new one (especially since i love musks), even though i probably fall into your "mature" woman category.

    magnolia? i hope not. but mostly because they all seem to feel synthetic to me. i love the blooms on the tree, but not in perfume (so far). if they go with the ways in which she used the fabric, it could be something modern and sporty and casual. will be curious to see what direction they take.

    either way, we have two new chanels from polge to look forward to, and that's a good thing.


  16. Dear E.,

    I'm looking forward to the N° 19 flanker, even though I'm not sure it'll as good as let's say Chanel N° 5 Eau Première. (Even though I don't wear it, I like it quite a bit.)
    The mention of musk - & a heavy dose of it at that - scares me a bit as I suppose it'll be clean musk which I don't like very much.

    Jersey on the other hand made me giggle a bit - I know the name refers to the fabric Coco Chanel like so much, but I was reminded of "Jersey Shore", an extremely trashy MTV reality show. (I assume you don't know it, or do you?) The connection between Chanel & the Jersey Shore is of course totally off & ridiculous...
    Jersey makes me think of something cool, but strong - if that makes sense. I'm looking forward to what Chanel will come up with - your suggestion it might be a magnolia scent sounds very reasonable. I'd love to get a tuberose, but I guess that won't happen...
    So far 31, Rue Cambon is my fave from Les Exclusifs.

  17. Alexandra10:08

    Hmm... does it smell like Heure Exquise by Annick Goutal? The original No19 was very similar, so I guess if it becomes more powdery, it will be more evocative of the Goutal fragrance...

  18. I love to see 19 getting attention via any method- it's utterly wonderful

  19. C,

    let's wait out and see. I hope that they do justice to the classic.

    Nope, no knowledge of Jersey Shore :-( Trashy as in making fun trashy?
    LOL on the Chanel connection, it is fun thinking about it.
    Cool and strong sounds perfect!

  20. Alexandra,

    I wouldn't be unhappy if so!

  21. K,

    exactly! If it means continuation of the brand, I'm for it. I don't think it's even possible to ruin No.19 too much, it's so great to begin with.

  22. Mimi Gardenia16:33

    Love No.19 in all its forms - vintage adn modern. The modern EDP is gorgeous in its own way . I am very happy to see an No.19 flanker - a sigh of relief ! - ike it's been said- the continuation of No.19 and not a discontinuation.
    And powder- I always love powder.
    I'm a bit dubious of the name Jersey though.... *LOL*
    Now Chanel - please maek the parfum extrait more available again ! It was quite available in Asia till last year and then no more to bbe found... of course in the uS - it is not available on the online store in the US .
    Thanks Elena !

  23. MG,

    as you saY; thankfully they're not thinking of stopping production on the classic. It's going rather steady and biggish in my own country, but then we always loved chypres.
    It's odd that the parfum isn't more widely available, since I believe Asia should like it quite a bit.

    Jersey only has weird and funny connotations on Americans, surely? Due to New Jersey and Jersey shore etc. The first thing that popped into my head is the fabric. I only later connected it with NJ etc after seeing it mentioned. :/

  24. Anonymous03:54

    Oh Chanel, what have you done!
    A fragrance house bar none... has cheapened and degraded itself for 'the young?' This is an insult to women of all ages...Grasse.. where the soul of the greatest perfumes of the world were launched.

    The essence of Chanel lies not in its MBAs and Marketing STAFF; no, it does not. The bastardization of the greatest Perfume House on the planet is destroying this great icon.

  25. Anon,

    I'm weeping alongside you. I didn't comprehend the sacrosancted reverie with which some critics viewed Chanel after Chance, I can tell you. But certainly Bleu and the latest flankers are far duller...


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