On occasion of the celtic lunar calendar day of the oak which is on the 10th of June, today I am grabbing this chance to introduce a new feature, the Mythology Series, which will fuse folklore, poetry and some of the most prevalent myths concerning aromatic plants.
The oak tree with its bittersweet timbre has been a symbol of stability and silent might ever since antiquity. It therefore comes as little surprise that it was attributed to Zeus, the mightiest of Gods. In Dodona, the sacred place of Zeus’s worship, where every summer ancient Greek tragedies and comedies are performed anew in its open-air amphitheater, oak trees that seem like they have been growing since the dawn of time reign supreme. Their leaves were crowning the winners of the drama competitions and the chariot races in the glorious past. Today they cast their welcome shade to the weary traveler who has been up the creek towards the ancient oracle, the second in importance in the whole Mediterranean after that of Thebes in Egypt. Legend wants it that two eagles, hatched out of the same egg, flew over the sea; one of them descended in Thebes, the other in Dodona, thus affirming the regal choice of these places of worship.
Contemplating the oak tree, one is transfixed by its hefty circumference, the long-extending branches full of wide leaves, the rough texture of the bark and the lichen that attracts itself on it (Evernia Prunastria or simply oakmoss), of which perfumery has justifiably occupied itself for long. It suffices to catch a hint of that mossiness in famous chypre perfumes like Dior’s Miss Dior, Cabochard by Gres, Carven’s Ma Griffe and Chanel No.19 to realize how the grandeur of the oak tree is lending a facet of that characteristic to the ambrosial parasite.
Conversely it is the fruit of the oak tree, βαλανίδι, which has been fed to swine for centuries as cheap supplement to their diet, and even the divinely favoured Ulysses had to witness his companions feed upon them when they were transformed by Circe into said domestic animals. The fuzzy green balls crack open under the nail with a surprising bitter herbal scent to later reveal the more familiar nutty aspects. And the association with might must not have escaped those who onomatized the inner edge of a male organ as βάλανος/balanos (etymologically derived from βαλανίδι)!
In celtic mythology oak stands as a gateway between worlds, or alternatively the vantage point where portals could be erected, while in Norse mythology it is connected to the warlike god Thor. But even in modern lore, oak has never lost its symbolic resonance that ties it with quiet power and mighty dominion. In Gone with the Wind, the tranquil, gentile mansion of Ashley Wilkes and his bride-to-be Melanie, where Scarlett is turned down thus catapulting the plot, is fittingly named Twelve Oaks. Throughout the novel it acts as the idealized place of refuge from the constant turmoil that the war has brought into the lives of the heroes and contrasts with the more cheerful Tara; the latter plantation like the female protagonist comes through thanks to its adaptive powers. When the old and majestic Twelve Oaks crumbles, it takes forever with it the dreams of the old, secure way of life for Ashley and Melanie...
In perfumery oak wood extract can be used to bring aspects of the imposing feeling of the oak tree into woody fragrances for men or women. with dry, liqueur-like accents. Now that oakmoss essence has been heavily rationed and synhetic approximations like Evernyl do not give an adequate substitute, oak wood extract, although less green and mossy, or even fougère-tinged is increasingly used, coupling especially well with wine accents, fruity scents and reinforces vanilla notes. This is how Serge Lutens used it in his Paris exclusive Chêne (French for oak) and in Miel de Bois. Baldessarini Ambré for men is another scent which exploits those facets to good effect. Oak also makes an ilusionary appearence as a top note, interestingly enough, in Eau de Merveilles by Hermès!
A fragrance which plays upon all aspects of the oak tree is Roxana Villa’s Q, a botanical artisanal scent by Roxana Illuminated Perfume, that is dedicated to the endemic oak population of the Californian woods with Q standing for Quercus, the botany name for oak tree (quercus robur). From root to kernel and from branch to bark, Q is anchoring and centering like only an afternoon below the shade of an imposing oak can be. But most importantly, part of the profits goes into the California Oak Foundation preserving that oak population, so that future generations can be ensured of a comparable experience. (You can find Q for sale here).
And when I try to recreate the austere atmosphere of the holy oaks at Dodona, I fall back on burning the old reliable Oak/Chêne candle by Diptyque, whose scent transports my spirit into a land of forever-living lore.
Pic of River Kalamas in Ioannina perfecture, Greece, via ellopos.org
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I can think of few things more awe inspiring than a 300 year old Burr oak. They are massive! We have a lot of great trees in central Ky.
ReplyDeleteQ sounds interesting. I just tested CDG's Patchouli Luxe - another one with almost no discernable patch! But what I did get for almost the entire time was that slightly sweet smell of piles of dried leaves in the fall.
I forgot to say - great idea for a series! Can't wait to read more.
ReplyDeleteDonna
What about Sl's "Chene?" One of my first loves from the line and still a fave...
ReplyDeleteExquisite prose my dear, I look forward to the entire series. Thank you for including Q here on this auspicious day.
ReplyDeleteD,
ReplyDeletethanks honey, hope you like the concept, I have so many ideas on these things. If only I had the time to put them all down... :-)
Yup, the CDG isn't exactly the most patchouli-rich patchouli. It's nice though. I highly recommend the Reminiscence Pathouli for some real stuff ;-)
B,
ReplyDeleteit's indeed a fabulous fragrance and I have added it. I like how it brings out the fruity-woody facets all out.
R,
ReplyDeleteyou're most welcome and I can see you have posted some things on oaks too, today! That lunar calendar is inspiring :-)
The deliciousness of Roxana's Q is not to be believed...
ReplyDeleteAs if her artwork alone was NOT enough, the lady herself is a treasure....
Nothing so venerable as a noble oak.
The oak tree has always been present in my own life; the giant majestic live oaks of South Carolina -- some of them over 300 years old, still lining the roads to the colonial plantations, and the groves of oaks that dot the hills of California. There is a kind of pig in Spain, small, grayish and wild, that feeds almost exclusively on acorns, producing the best of all the cured hams, Iberico. Here in Georgia we are surrounded by "water oaks," a shallow-rooted tree that grows huge. It's always the water oaks that fall during storms, as they are easily uprooted by strong wind. They take down our power lines and we are thrown suddenly into the 19th century, sometimes for days. The rural people come into the city, cut up the fallen trees with rented chainsaws, and ultimately sell the oakwood back to us as firewood.
ReplyDeleteI,
ReplyDeleteIt was the first one which I popped in from the sample lot when experiencing the line and it impressed me most favourably. Then I found out Lyra and the rest is history. The cute minis are fabulous and in fact quite lasting with only a little smidge.
P,
ReplyDeletedarling, how lucky and at the same time unlucky of you! I have been impressed by the Southern planatation images of the massive oaks, looking over vast plantations...somehow the whole "colonial" air creates its own sense of wonder to this historically inquisitive soul.
It's a pity that what is nature's debris ends up becoming a sellasble product. But that's life so often....
I am a bit late to reading this, but this a great feature you added. :) Can't wait to see what will come next in the series. :)
ReplyDeleteThank you my dear! Let me surprise you then, shall I? ;-)
ReplyDeleteI am amazed by the new series! I'd love some Juniper or Elder (Sambusuc nigra), if i may say a wish! ;-))
ReplyDeleteOak is the most important tree in ancient northern european mythology and it has a special meaning for the landscape, still today. Mostly on hills are giant oaktrees were planted, often they mark a place of execution (as assizes were hold under oak trees in germanic days), a cross road or a milestone. Did you know that the celtic word "Druid" comes from "duir" which means "oaktree"? :-) I LOVE those stories! In the Middle Ages oakleaves were an important ornament. At the moment we have a severe problem with the "Oak Precessionary" in German woods, a poisonous moth-pest in our forests. :-((
Greetings
lillie