The Intimate History of Chanel N°5

After the catastrophic Brad Pitt No.5 campaign (largely faulty due to the horrendous script), Chanel goes all damage control and employs Marilyn Monroe at their Inside Chanel microsite.

 

The“Marilyn and N°5” video is part two of a larger Inside Chanel campaign that is available at www.inside-chanel.com.

The Perfume of Life Forum is Back!

After several months in absentia, due to the heavy workload of mr.Jeffrey Dame, owner and administrator of the Perfume of Life community, one of the oldest fora for perfume lovers is finally back. You can log in if you're an old user with your old username or you can register if you're new. Check this link and enter Perfume of Life for discussion of all matters related to perfume. It's been missed...

Bond Night at Ormonde Jayne

Ormonde Jayne Perfumery requests the pleasure of your company to a special Bond Night Celebration. Enjoy a 20% discount in store and by phone (below), plus a 56 GBP worth complimntary bathing oil for the first 15 customers making a purchase in store. Join us at Ormonde Jayne for a glass of champagne and mince pies. See the Bond Street Christmas lights turn on, marvel at ice scultpures and listen to the Christmas swing band.

Date: Thursday 22nd November
Time: 5:00 pm - 8:00 pm 
Place: The Royal Arcade, 28 Old Bond Street, London.
T: 0207 499 1100

 via press release

Caron Bellodgia: fragrance review & history

Much like Caron's Pour un Homme is a study in lavender, done in a simple equation style giving so much more in perceived value, so Bellodgia is Caron's study of carnations, but in all their rich depth. I am not surprised many perfume lovers like Bellodgia, even floral haters. Unlike its reputation for a soliflore (the fragrance that reproduces the scent of a single flower, carnation in this case) it's really complex and not simplistic. Loving carnations sincerely, I had to have this perfume in my collection. Carnations have a scent that is not really floral, but definitely spicy and richly intimate. Who in their right mind deemed them "humble" for offering is beyond me. That spiciness is the reason I like storks also; another not quite so chic flower with its intense skatole quota (Skatole is the predominant molecule in excrement, its name deriving from the Greek word for shit; oh well, nothing is as it appears.)

Bellodgia seems the definitive carnation scent exactly because of its spiciness and complexity of its quality essences (allegedly its top note alone comprises 100 essences, a claim I find rather hard to believe); yet it is really a somewhat orientalized spicy perfume, rich in peppery notes that give a jangling quality to begin with, then segue into carnation richness with nuances of vanilla and woods warmth, which lasts incredibly well. The current eau de toilette opens with a note of incense comparable to Caron's Nuit de Noel and Parfum Sacre. The clove tint is a living remnant of retro perfumery of the turn of the 20th century, when carnations were recreated with flower notes (ylang ylang and rose) and cloves. At the time the buoyancy of the combination that resulted in a soapy, inedible impression signified perfume, a sign of wealth and status.

 The heady, not so innocent kick of carnation is baroque-like in Bellodgia, like the sheen of brocade cloth, where every change of the light brings out hidden reflections in the fabric. Similarly, the longer this Caron perfume stays on, the more it gains in creaminess and powder facets, prone to be deemed "old lady smelling" by those consumers who dismiss by that derogative term anything that isn't reminiscent of cake batter or linen drawers. The classical turn can smell a bit dated, a fact that shouldn't deter the male of the species grabbing it in an effort to turn what can be predictable and ageing for one gender into an unexpected burst of good news for the other, if they dare. The vintage formulation of Bellodgia is perhaps guiltier in the rich powderiness and the floral impact (aka more ladylike), while the modern versions are sheeting everything in the envelope of warm skin-scent musks, but more so in eau de toilette than in eau de parfum, the latter more floral and denser overall and more lasting. It's easy to spot the difference: the latest bottles have a purple label (or are encased in the shagreen tubes that the whole line has progressed onto, this time in purple), the older ones sport a white one.
The extrait de parfum is smoother than both but the problems with sandalwood supply in later years have subtly changed its base note over the last decade.

 Created in 1927, Bellodgia was the result of the collaboration of Caron founder Ernest Daltroff and one-time dress maker Felicie Vanpouille, who lent her fashion expertise to the company's scents. Specifically it was inspired by Italy and its countryside of wild carnation fields, particularly the picturesque town of Bellagio, perched high above the incredibly beautiful Lake Como, it smells sunny yet deep. Full of classical drama? Indeed. It is perhaps its assertion and its projection that accounts with its popularity over past decades with American customers. Bellodgia is a masterful blend of floral essences, so it needs some time to be blocked and some repeated exposure for it to be really appreciated, much like a good Bordeaux. And for those who sorta like Bellodgia, but want a smooth spices carnation without the powdery floralcy? Try Caron's Tabac Blond. You'll thank me later...

  Notes for Caron Bellodgia: lily of the valley, rose, carnation, violet, jasmine, clove, musk, vanilla and sandalwood.

Worthy of a read: One woman's love affair with Bellodgia.

Related reading on Perfume Shrine: Caron news & fragrance reviews.
vintage ads via polyvore and  the non blonde

What Scents Do Perfumers Wear?

“I wear the fragrances I am creating. My skin is my work instrument. When I have the time to wear some fragrances, I like to smell of Féminité du bois or Ambre Sultan by Serge Lutens, or some of my earlier creations for Jo Malone London like English Pear & Freesia.” So says perfumer Christine Nagel, "creator of  Narciso Rodriguez for Her (with Francis Kurkdjian), and several blockbusters including Miss Dior Chérie and Dolce & Gabbana The One for Her, before moving in-house at Jo Malone London to put her unique spin on the company’s traditional blooms" as per one article appearing on Australian Vogue.

 Most perfumers and people professionally involved in fragrances do not wear perfumes on their own skin as a matter of course or when working, so as not to get distracted. Yet sometimes they do indulge in their own creations (to better gauge them), the odd classic or two an aside, or at least they're saying so to bring more attention to their work. Francis Kurkdjian, Olivier Cresp, Daniela Andrier, Anne Flipo, Fabrice Penot of Le Labo, Erwin Creed, Frédéric Malle, Romano Ricci of Juliette Has a Gun, and François Demachy (head perfumer for Dior) share their secrets with the readers of Australian Vogue. Read the whole article on this link.

Bunch of Perfume News & Fragrance Releases

“J’Adore is a huge inspiration on a lot of different home-care products such as air fresheners and cleaners”. Dior for home? Think again.
Before she cleans a client’s home, Liz Phillips finds out how they prefer their kitchen and bathroom to smell. The real-estator-mom-turned-entrepreneur founded Golden Touch Professional Services and taps into the increasingly relevant scent-sensitive market for cleaning one's home. Household products producing companies aren't far behind: Procter and Gamble has a new line of Dawn dish soap called Dawn Destination. The scents include Mediterranean Lavender, New Zealand Springs and Thai Dragon Fruit. Clorox has a line of Green Works products that includes a “Water Lily” scent. The S.C. Johnson Co. has added Multi-Surface Glade Magic Meadow to their line of Windex products. It boasts the scent of “fresh greens, morning dew and white jasmine.” Unlike more perfumey antecedents, these new compounds don’t simply mask other less desirable smells. 

Deborah Betz, a senior fragrance-development manager at International Flavors & Fragrances, says the country’s Hispanic population has a significant influence on the market.[...] “Clorox has a line that’s marketed in Latin America called Poett,” Betz says. “What they decided to do is relaunch it in the United States as Fraganza. It’s selling very, very well.” Hispanics tend to use stronger fragrances in their homes, Betz says. Fabuloso, an all-purpose cleaner marketed in Latin America by Colgate-Palmolive, is being used by more non-Hispanic consumers in the United States. Scents include Lavender, Passion of Fruits and Ocean Paradise. “Fresh marine notes are very hot,” Betz says. “Very fruity scents are very hot, too: berries, apples, melon.” When it comes to cleaning products, some upscale perfumes can also set the tone, like above-mentioned J'Adore.[source] There may soon come a day when your Dior might remind someone of their clean countertop...

 On the other hand online niche perfume distributor Luckyscent celebrates its decennial anniversary and for that occasion they issued the Decennial Collection, a line of four new in-house scents. "Our 10-year anniversary made us look back at the road we've traveled to see how far we have come. To honor our special occasion, we desired something both celebratory and meaningful. That something turned out to be The Decennial Collection, a set of four fragrances created in collaboration with perfumers Andy Tauer and Jérome Epinette. Decennial is a reflection of who we are and, because it has such a strong influence on us, where we live: Los Angeles, a city of incredible diversity with a undeniably unique personality. This quartet is an abstract reflection of our journey, a tip of our collective hat to who we are, how we got here, and where we hope to go.
The fragrances include Nuit Épicée (almond, cumin, rhubarb, cistus, violet, blond woods, black amber, praline), Santal Sacré (ginger, elemi, incense, white musks, papyrus, Australian sandalwood), Bois Bourbon (saffron, cinnamon bark, lavender, heliotrope, black rose, cedarwood, beach birch, oak moss), all by Jérome Epinette and last but not least Lys du Desert (bergamot, rose, green lily, dry cistrose, iris root, ambergris, dry cedar) by Andy Tauer.

And irreverent niche brand Le Labo introduces all their perfumes in oil form this Novemeber. "Dear hippie hiding under your skin - unleash yourself: your fragrance now comes as a perfume oil ! Le Labo's full range of creations is available in botanical safflower oil presented in a 1 ounce perfume eyedropper, to be carried anywhere and to be used everywhere: from your pulse points, your mane, your neck, your cleavage to your beard... That sounded weird, I just pictured a bearded bombshell..." (30ml/0.9fl.oz for 90 euros)