Perfumery Material: Heliotrope

Among the most popular and beloved notes in perfumes, heliotrope evokes images of goose down comfort, almondy yumminess, fluffiness and powdery goodness. A pliable note, despite its characteristic odor profile, it can twist slightly here or there. Coupled with violets and iris it gains on intensity reminiscent of retro talcum powder; embraced by bitter almond, vanilla or frangipani, it gains on a mouth-watering quality that is delectable, like a billowy dessert you can't resist. A high pitched and curiously deep, at the same time, smell, this fascinating butterfly-attracting plant is but the introduction to a delightful and ubiquitous perfumery material.

Arcane Connections

The name comes from the Greek words "Helios" (the sun) and "tropein" (turning), denoting the propensity for turning towards solar rays. Thus is explained the old English name "turnsole" (via the French "tournesol"). But apart from the plant and its delicious scent, it also refers to a purple-pink shade of color: the first use in that regard recorded in English comes from 1882.

Allied to puccoon, forget-me-not, and beggar's lice, the heliotrope comprises 100 kinds of varieties throughout the world's warmer zones. The fragrant garden heliotropes have sprung from two species only though: One is native to India, the other to Peru. The most usual heliotrope variety grown is heliotropium arborescens, like its name suggests resembling a small tree. Garden heliotrope has been a constant feature since at least the Victorian times, thanks to its delicious scent that oscillates between marzipan, vanilla, cherry pie and almond (hence its alternative name "cherry pie flower"). Indeed vanilla essential oil contains an amount of piperonal (heliotropin) in its composite, drawing the two close. It comes as no surprise that in mythology heliotrope is associated to the god Apollo, god of the sun and of the light. Hence the plant's connection to healing, prophetic dreams and exorcism. Apollo was the pre-eminent god of insight, bestowing his gift of prophecy to his acolytes and to the oracle of Delphi.

How Heliotrope Notes are Created in Perfumes 

Both maceration and enfleurage (enrobing blossoms in clarified fat and then treating the fat with volatile solvents in order to catch the pure essence of the flower) yield heliotrope essence from heliotrope peruvianum, but it is neither sufficient nor totally accurate. A Japanese study from 1995 identified some odoriferous components as major components in the flowers, such as benzaldehyde, anisaldehyde and benzyl acetate, but these notes do not comprise the scent of the flowers adequately. On the contrary 3,4-          methylenedioxybenzaldehyde (heliotropin) does smell like heliotrope flowers, to an adequate degree, although the ingredient is not actually found in the blossoms' scent profile!

Therefore in perfume formulae, heliotrope is routinely replicated with heliotropin. Also known as piperonal or oil of sassafras, heliotropin derives from sassafras indeed (Sassafras albidum) and has been in wide demand for perfume and soaps for decades, especially for reasons of cost. The odour profile is powdery, like vanilla meringue with a helping of almond. The characteristic comforting scent of heliotrope has been proven to induce feelings of relaxation and comfort, a pampering atmosphere that finds itself very suited to languorous oriental fragrances and delicious "gourmands" (i.e. fragrances that recall culinary desserts by their scent).

Teaching your Nose into Recognizing Heliotrope Notes

To get an education in heliotrope notes in perfumery one needs to look no further than classic Guerlain fragrances: From Guerlain's ultra rare Heliotrope extrait from 1890 to the ethereal Après L'Ondée (1908), which is mainly the pairing of warm heliotropin with cool and shy violets, and the troubling yet nostalgic L'heure Bleue (1912) ~which pairs the vanillic facet of heliotropin with anise on top, soft flowers in the heart (violet and carnation) and benzoin, iris and Tonka bean in the base to compliment the floral-oriental character~ Guerlain is the definitive house for heliotrope.

 It was therefore a fitting homage that perfumer Jean Claude Ellena was reinterpreting Après L'Ondée in a modern context when he created L'Eau d'Hiver for Editions des Parfums Frederic Malle. The aim was to create a light fragrance, inspired by the structuring of eau de cologne but creating an eau chaud (hot water) than cooling sensation of a classic cologne. In L'Eau d'Hiver heliotropin is almost reduced to its pure state for this purpose: fluffy, like a late afternoon cloud, salmon golden. Etro's Heliotrope is yummy, innocent and hazy, enveloping you in its comfort like a goose down duvet; it's no accident it's considered the finest representation of the note, coupled with white flowers for a light, floral, airy touch. Heliotrope Blanc by L.T Piver is charmingly more complex with a slightly naughtier note. Crown Perfumery also lists a Heliotrope amidst their wares, more restrained and balanced in its sweetness. Molinard makes a classic, simple Heliotrope in their line Les Senteurs, which highlights raw materials one by one.

 Several modern fragrances succumb to the charms of heliotrope, even when not featured in the name. In Kenzo Amour the heliotropin take is on the vanillic side, boosted by milky notes. In Love, Chloe we encounter the retro-smelling pairing of heliotropin and violet notes producing a powdery effect, reminiscent of makeup products. In Sicily by Dolce & Gabanna it provides the sweet anchoring of soapy aldehydes on top. In Lolita Lempicka eau de parfum heliotropin takes a anisic mantle and becomes a full-blown gourmand, while in the older Cacharel Loulou it's the comforting billowy background alongside tonka bean (with which it shares an almond and hay facet) and orris, producing a true floriental.


IFRA Concerns & Regulations

 Currently heliotropin is under reduced ratio of use in perfumery, according to IFRA regulations, because safrols in food have been proven to be carcinogenic and hepatotoxic. Therefore concerns about the inhaled and skin-absorbed quantity from scented products have resulted in a preventory measure, rationing heliotropin to much lower ratios than before. This may be why your favourite fragrance with heliotrope might start smelling less deep and almondy in the coming months or getting discontinued altogether (as happened with Jour de Fête already).

Fragrances containing prominent heliotrope notes

Ava Luxe Heliotrope
Avon Heliotrope
Barbara Bui Le Parfum
Boucheron Jaipur Homme
Bvlgari Omnia Amethyste
Cacharel Loulou
Caron Farnesiana
Chloe Love,Chloe
Crown Perfumery Heliotrope
D&G Feminine
Dolce & Gabanna Sicily
Etro Heliotrope
F.Malle L'Eau d'Hiver
Gucci Gucci Eau de Parfum (brown juice)
Guerlain Après L'Ondée
Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Angelique Lilas
Guerlain Heliotrope extrait
Guerlain L'Heure Bleue
Guerlain Quand Vient la Pluie
Herve Leger eau de parfum
Kenzo Amour
Kenzo Flower le Parfum (red bottle)
Lalique Le Parfum
L'Artisan Parfumeur Jour de Fête
Lorenzo Villoresi Teint de Neige
L.T.Piver Heliotrope
Lolita Lempicka Lolita Eau de Parfum
Maitre Parfumeur Gantier Secrete Datura
Miller Harris Fleur Orientale
Molinard Les Senteurs Heliotrope
Oscar de la Renta Esprit d'Oscar
Oscar de la Renta Volupté
Patricia de Nicolai Kiss me Tender
Paul & Joe Blanc (by perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena)
Philosophy Pure Grace
Santa Maria Novela Eliotropio
Serge Lutens Daim Blond
Serge Lutens Datura Noir
Trussardi Jeans for women

 heliotrope plant pic via factspage.blogspot.com, LHB bottle via guerlainhistoiredeparfums.wordpress.com

Wedding Bells: Perfume Ideas for Choosing the Perfect Fragrance to Get Married In

There's nothing worse than totally metamorphosing Kafkaesque-like into a different creature on your wedding day. Even though the temptation for many women (and a handful of men) to live their very own fairy tale seems insurmountable, try to resist it. Apart from all the other details that should correspond to the style of wedding you and your beloved choose, your respective fragrances should reflect an extension of your personality, exalted to its best, with just that extra little touch for marking the day as more special than any other. In perfume terms, that means your signature scent might be a little too predictable, even if perfect for you, necessitating to go the extra mile. A subtle twist might be just the thing to create an indelible mark on your beloved's memory and that special aura that will put you in the accompanying festive mood.

Source: via Vernetta on Pinterest

Another important, perhaps even more important, consideration is how your fragrance will mingle with the weather, the surroundings, the conditions in which you will be subjected to: Don't try to beat a Florida summer wedding with humidity tilting at 98% by wearing your beloved heavy oriental that was perfect back in wintertime Chicago. Don't subject your guests to gusts of soured juice coming off your bridal dress. Similarly, an over-ornate baroque composition might seem a little pretentious on a beach ceremony where you're appearing barefoot, and a meaningful exclusive niche might go amiss on a groom with no tie and no jacket. There's a reason why the Greek word ωραίος (synonym for "beautiful", but even more exalted to include intelligence and smarts in the mix) literally means "in good time" : synchronizing with your surroundings is considered the ne plus ultra of the elegant person.

This is also not the time nor the place to experiment with weird scents, hoping to pass off as more sophisticated than you are. Weddings are by their own nature a bit of a conservative occasion, a celebration of the ritualistic triumph over unconventionality, so there's only so much you can get away with. Perhaps another consideration for the bride especially is what flowers will the bouquet contain: you wouldn't want to drown out the delicate scent of roses with an overpowering resinous perfume as you wouldn't want to pair daisies with a bitter-tinged, very elegant chypre.
Above all, apply lightly, renew if need be in the middle of the reception, or plan ahead using the technique of layering body cream in a matching scent ~if available~ for long-lasting effects and don't give it too much fret and fuss. Perfume is supposed to be enjoyable, not stressful!

So, catering to different types (because come on, admit it, that's how all wedding planners guide you, don't they) I have come up with suggestions for scents for the ladies and the gentlemen on this precious path to a new life. Naturally, feel free to add your own, sample lots of things as soon as you decide on the date, bring your beloved along for the testing and allow perfume some time to mingle with your sensibilities and your skin before making any final decision. You will (hopefully) want to remember this scent for the rest of your life.

Source: shopruche.com via Lil on Pinterest

The Romantic Type

For the ladies: Chamade (Guerlain), Amoureuse (Parfums DelRae), Quel Amour (Annick Goutal), Drole de Rose (L'Artisan Parfumeur), vintage Diorissimo (Dior)
For the gents: Dior Homme (Dior), Habit Rouge (Guerlain),  Gaiac 10 (Le Labo)

Source: youtu.be via marhta on Pinterest

The Classic Type

For the ladies: Danger (Roja Dove), Chanel No.5, Caleche (Hermes), Antonia (Puredistance), Fleurs d'Oranger (Serge Lutens)

For the gents: Rive Gauche pour Homme (YSL), Derby (Guerlain), Cologne Bigarrade (F.Malle)

Source: stylemepretty.com via Abby on Pinterest

The Purist Type

For the ladies: Infusion d'Iris (Prada), L'Eau de Chloe (Chloe), Parfum d'Ete (Kenzo)
For the gents: Eau de Merveilles (Hermes), Eau de Guerlain (Guerlain), Cologne (Mugler)

Source: weddingchicks.com via yvaiine on Pinterest

The Adventurous Type

For the ladies: Diorling (Dior), Tiempe Passate (Antonia's Flowers), Bois des Iles (Chanel)
For the gents: Santal Blanc (Serge Lutens), Ormonde Man (Ormonde Jayne), Sycomore (Chanel)

Source: stylemepretty.com via Becca on Pinterest

The Casual Type

For the ladies: Pure White Linen (Lauder), Jennifer Aniston Eau de Parfum, Kenzo Amour
For the gents: Terre d'Hermes (Hermes), The pour un Ete (L'Artisan Parfumeur), Reverie au Jardin (Tauer), Philosykos (Diptyque)

Congratulations on your special day and may your scented memories accompany you for a lifetime together.

Dior Addict new commercial: And God Created Woman in st.Tropez

The line between homage and copy is subtle, though I admit I much rather prefer interpreting a classic film into modern protagonists than outright taking chunks straight out of old cinema and transposing it to modern commercials like they did with Delon and La Piscine for Eau Sauvage.



Here, for Dior Addict's new range of fragrances (comprising an Addict Eau Fraiche and Addict Eau Sensuelle), Daphné Groeneveld stars as the muse to a contemporary Roger Vadim...Interestingly enough, like the prototype, Brigitte Bardot herself, the girl's face isn't the prettiest thing about her, but her charm and very provocative wiles are.
The comparisons between the full almost 3 minutes director's cut with the original by Vadim are more apparent.



Music in the Dior commercial:"I love you, oh, no" di Stereo Total.

Tauer Perfumes Bottle Giveaway!

Tauer Perfumes need no introduction: Probably the most successful internet-stemming indie fragrance phenomenon which built sufficient word of mouth to become a deserved cult.

The niche brand from Switzerland to win fans all over the world is giving away a generous purse spray bottle of one of their most prized scents: Tableau de Parfums Dark Passage (perfume review here), the esoteric release in collaboration with Brian Pera and his "Only Child" film.
All you need to do to be eligible for the draw is leave a comment saying what is your favorite old-time movie and why/if it brings you any scented associations. Draw is open internationally until Thursday 28th June midnight. Draw is now closed, thank you!

I am honored to consider Andy a friend and it pleases me no end that apart from such a wonderful guy he's also such a talented creator. If you haven't explored the Tauer line so far, please refer to the reviews on Tauer fragrances on this link and then browse at his e-shop to your heart's delight; there's something for everyone. (oh and check evelynavenue.com for more news on the collaboration of the two men)

still from the film noir "To Have and Have Not" starring Humphrey Bogart and Lauren Bacallvia rockets-and-robots.blogspot.com

Interview with Vero Kern on her new fragrance Mito

Vero Kern of Vero Profumo, a true author's line, talks in English about the newest fragrance to launch soon, Mito; for info on the new scent please consult our announcement on these pages.


Thanks to Extrait.it for the video.