Guerlain Abeille Paradis Interdit: new fragrance

Paradis Interdit by Mr.Guerlain/Facebook/www.monsieurguerlain.com

"Guerlain's perversely limited Paradis Interdit, Thierry Wasser's second Abeille perfume, is maybe not a new masterpiece gone unnoticed, but it's a gorgeous, classical white floral, made with that freshness and lightness Wasser has become known for. It begins with mandarin, at once softly juicy and effervescent, think the mandarin of Oriental Brûlant, or vintage Chant d'Arômes. A dash of pink pepper adds tickle. Then the flowers, of which jasmine is the most prominent, slightly stern and green but also creamy, the latter supported by ylang-ylang and gardenia. The Guerlain base sweetness is made up of labdanum, sandalwood, tonka bean, musk and what is described as a honey note. It's far from a symphonic, opulent floral perfume, but simply a beautiful scent of a summer garden. One would love the Abeille perfumes to be sold separately in simpler glass bottles. But I guess it would damage the joy of owning the Baccarat sculpture..."

"There's oud - and then there's oud": Perfumer Alberto Morillas Talks on Successful Perfume-Making

"Nothing is ever completely perfect and perfect is boring. Sometimes the big success is when a scent is imperfect. Some might say Angel [by Thierry Mugler] is too girlie. Others could say Chanel No 5 is outdated - but actually there's something about their disproportion that makes them memorable. It's all about the aesthetic and occasionally when the balance is off, it's good."

Spanish-born star perfumer Alberto Morillas talks about what makes winning scents, the intricasy and quality controls of natural raw materials for perfumery, his latest big fragrance launch for Valentino's new Valentina fragrance (review featured in the link), how specific ingredients create specific effects and how tastes haven't really changed that much over the years.

And why didn't he include rose in Valentina de Valentino, since it's a trademark motif of the fashion house? "Honestly, it's not easy to make roses 'young'," he shrugs. "It's a scent often associated with older ladies and jasmine is far younger. And although you do have roses in Italy, it's not really the essence of the country."

You can read the whole interview on this link at The National.

Aftelier Holiday Sale & Open Studio: December 9, 10, 11

Mandy Aftel invites visitors to her Aftelier studio to see and smell everything in person.
Her new Secret Garden perfume and EDP spray as well as her Oud Luban solid will be on display alongside several other scented products for both men & women (face elixirs, oils, perfumed teas, Chef's Essences and botanicals).
For the occasion there will be delicious snacks offered as well, Valrhona chocolate, Satsuma tangerines, perfumed teas, Phoenix bread, hydrosol-flavoured water and of course cheese.

More information at info@aftelier.com 
Where:
1518 Walnut Street, Berkley CA 94709
tel: 510-841-2111
When:
On Friday December 9, Saturday 10 and  Sunday 11 from 10am to 6pm.

L'Artisan Parfumeur: London party & Christmas shopping offer

For our London (or UK) residing readers, I got an interesting promo in the mail which might be just the thing for those of you who are doing your Christmas shopping now and gearing it towards scented products.
The Paris Doorways packaging design is sublimely cute!

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR’S CHRISTMAS PARTY
IN COVENT GARDEN

Thursday 24th November, from 4 pm until closing

Come and do your Christmas shopping with L'Artisan Parfumeur
with drinks, nibbles and a magical seasonal atmosphere!

PLUS
Enjoy an exceptional offer with a
HALF PRICE 50ml FRAGRANCE OF YOUR CHOICE
when you purchase two Christmas gift sets.

Check selection & prices at www.artisanparfumeur.com

Thomas Fontaine: New In-House Perfumer at Jean Patou, Scherrer & Worth

After the acquisition of parfums Jean Patou by the company Designer Parfums, a part of the Shaneel Enterprises Group (who took the helm from P&G who previously owned Patou), Paris-based perfumer Thomas Fontaine will work alongside Designer Parfums’ existing team on new launches and will have a specific responsibility overseeing the fragrance development for its heritage brands, namely Worth, Jean Louis Scherrer and Jean Patou. The portfolio of the company also includes Agent Provocateur, Aigner Parfums and Monsoon fragrances.

Thomas Fontaine has worked with an international client list and displays an extensive track record in creating fragrances for bespoke houses such as Lubin (Black Jade, Bluff, Inédite, Figaro, Gin Fizz), Grès (Cabotine Floralisme, Miss Cabaret), L'Occitane (Miel et Citron), D&G (L'Amoureux), Léonard (Eau Fabuleuse) and JC Brosseau (Bois d'Orient, Ombre Platine); as well as major brand owners such as P&G Prestige. [Indeed he worked on Caline Tender Moments and Caline Blooming Moments, flankers to the original J.Patou fragrance Caline]

He is the perfumer and founder of Pallida and has worked at renowned aroma-producing companies such as Mane, Charabot and Technico-Flor.
Fontaine studied perfumery at the Ipsica Fragrance Academy at Versailles under the patronage of the House of Jean Patou, so you can say that some things are in the cards from the very beginning.

Today Thomas Fontaine is recognised as a leading specialist in recasting vintage formulas for modern times. Which is of course wonderful news for us perfume lovers! Imagine if the old Patou Ma Collection miracles came alive again!

Designer Parfums Managing Director Dilesh Mehta commented:
“Thomas has a wonderful understanding of the history of perfume and also knows how to create beautiful fragrances for the modern international marketplace. I am sure that by working closely with him we will benefit greatly from his knowledge, experience and passion.” [source]



Let's hope for new beginnings and exciting announcements along the way! All the very best, mr.Fontaine!