"There's oud - and then there's oud": Perfumer Alberto Morillas Talks on Successful Perfume-Making

"Nothing is ever completely perfect and perfect is boring. Sometimes the big success is when a scent is imperfect. Some might say Angel [by Thierry Mugler] is too girlie. Others could say Chanel No 5 is outdated - but actually there's something about their disproportion that makes them memorable. It's all about the aesthetic and occasionally when the balance is off, it's good."

Spanish-born star perfumer Alberto Morillas talks about what makes winning scents, the intricasy and quality controls of natural raw materials for perfumery, his latest big fragrance launch for Valentino's new Valentina fragrance (review featured in the link), how specific ingredients create specific effects and how tastes haven't really changed that much over the years.

And why didn't he include rose in Valentina de Valentino, since it's a trademark motif of the fashion house? "Honestly, it's not easy to make roses 'young'," he shrugs. "It's a scent often associated with older ladies and jasmine is far younger. And although you do have roses in Italy, it's not really the essence of the country."

You can read the whole interview on this link at The National.

Becoming a Perfumer: When Changing Careers Midstream

She pops open a fresh bottle of something that takes a visitor's breath away -  jasmine sambac concentrate.
"Careful!" warns Kern [Vero, of Vero Profumo]. "You wouldn't believe it, it's like petrol. But when you dilute it the nuances of the flower really come out. You really have to know these things."

An extended article by Susan Stone on Deutche Welle highlights the professional course into perfumery of two Swiss perfumers we know and love: Vero Kern of Vero Profumo and Andy Tauer of Tauer Perfumes. 
Their impressive history showcases how you can follow your heart (and your nose!) even at 60 or how you can become an iternational success in what you love if you believe enough in it. In the article, the two perfumers explain how they took that decision, what it means to produce in Switzerland, and how costs are affected by the economic crisis. Read the whole article here.

article brought to my attention by sillage/pol. Photo via duftarchiv.de