Tuesday, November 22, 2011

"There's oud - and then there's oud": Perfumer Alberto Morillas Talks on Successful Perfume-Making

"Nothing is ever completely perfect and perfect is boring. Sometimes the big success is when a scent is imperfect. Some might say Angel [by Thierry Mugler] is too girlie. Others could say Chanel No 5 is outdated - but actually there's something about their disproportion that makes them memorable. It's all about the aesthetic and occasionally when the balance is off, it's good."

Spanish-born star perfumer Alberto Morillas talks about what makes winning scents, the intricasy and quality controls of natural raw materials for perfumery, his latest big fragrance launch for Valentino's new Valentina fragrance (review featured in the link), how specific ingredients create specific effects and how tastes haven't really changed that much over the years.

And why didn't he include rose in Valentina de Valentino, since it's a trademark motif of the fashion house? "Honestly, it's not easy to make roses 'young'," he shrugs. "It's a scent often associated with older ladies and jasmine is far younger. And although you do have roses in Italy, it's not really the essence of the country."

You can read the whole interview on this link at The National.


  1. Intereting interview! Thanks!

    I will always thank Alberto Morillas for creating one of my favorite perfumes ever: LancĂ´me Miracle. Unfortunately, it was reformulated about two years ago (why?!), but I still have the "old" and I enjoy it a lot. It brings me wonderful memories.

  2. Thanks very much indeed for the link.

  3. Isa,

    yeah, wasn't it?

    Miracle is changed?? Why on earth? The pepper perhaps? (pity, it was what made it interesting)

    Enjoy what you have of it!

  4. D,

    you're welcome. He's a megalith in the market, it's always interesting to follow his thought process.

  5. Yes, Miracle was changed, and now it lacks the strong peppery start. I think that ginger is much more muted too. However, I think now there is more musk. It is more boring, no doubt.
    I own a full bottle of the old one like a treasure :)

    Maybe Mr. Morillas could tell us why it was changed! LOL (kidding)

  6. Isa,

    I sure hope mr.Morillas might step in and say definitively, but I doubt it will happen.
    Still, my money is on the IFRA regulations. Spicy stuff was off the list an amendment or two back.
    They managed to declaw Opium, of all things, so how could Miracle stand any chance?

  7. You are right. It must be because of the IFRA regulations. Lots of perfumes changed...


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