Wednesday, May 25, 2011

A Royal Celebrity Scent: When the Perfume Business Becomes The Crown

It's not enough that royals are represented by their fragrance choices to the greater perfume appreciating audience, like Catherine, the Duchess of Cambridge (and formely known as Kate Middleton) did recently,  skyrocketing sales by a niche perfumery. Now Henrik, prince consort of Denmark, spouse of Margerita of Denmark, 76 and an accomplished sculptor, writer and poet, is going to launch his very own perfume, sold under the -very Spartan- name "H".


According to the palace press release by Lene Belleby: "The prince has choisen the ingredients of his perfume hiself and the fragrance will be exclusively sold at the château de Caïx". Château de Caïx (also, de Cayx), for those who didn't know this information (I was among them, I must admit) is the French soil residence of the royal Danish couple, located at the south-western regions of the country where the prince is also producing fine wine from the local Cahors vineyeards for decades.
The fragrance has been developed by the Danish cosmetics line GOSH (who also produce a lovely, simple musk) and features notes of grapefruit and cedar. H, the royal fragrance of prince Henrik of Denmark, will be sold at the boutique of the château alongside his wine bottles production. A nice memento for those visiting, I should gather!

Tuesday, May 24, 2011

Best Smelling Inexpensive Fragrances

When it comes to fragrances democratic forces seem to be at work: There is something good to be found at all price points. The smartness lies in finding it amidst prejudices against "cheap" (there's a difference between cheap-smelling and low price, they're not necessarily interchangeable) and against "mass market". Not to mention feeling secure in one's tastes vis-à-vis others and their own preconceptions upon revealing what you're wearing.
After all, almost everyone in the industry is using the same palette of fragrant ingredients and the same perfume authors (perfumers working for major companies), so the real difference lies only in actual concept, indie companies or those using all naturals which naturally (no pun intended) fetch a high cost of raw materials.
So let's concentrate on the smarts: What are the most worthwhile inexpensive fragrances on the market that you won't be embarassed to put on your person? For our purposes nothing costs more than 20 euros on regular retail on this top smelling, cheap thrills list.


Yardley Iris

If you have been investing in Hermes Hiris all these years, run, don't walk, to go try this iris fragrance offered by the traditionally British brand Yardley. In their new look line of soliflores (including Lily of the Valley among them), Iris is a valiant effort at offering a more than decent orchestration of that melancholic, part sensuous flesh, part somber, metallic timbre effect that all good iris fragrances project.For the price, quite impressive!

Yves Rocher Pur Desir de Gardenia
Probably the most realistic budding gardenia in existence (tie with Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia by Lauder) at a fraction of the price. Gardenias are recreations anyway, so the low price only proves how analytic chemistry can serve a perfumista's wet dream. Rendered through the magic of jasmolactones, Pure Desir de Gardenia is a wonderful, magical fragrance. It goes on and off the market, apparently, so grab it when you see it.

Lily Prune Patchouli Chic
The Lily Prune line (a subset of the Ulrik de Varens house) has been created with someone who knows just what hot buttons to push: a great starchy musk, a fabulous pod-like vanilla, a plausible woody that isn't too synthetic, and yes, a great wearable patchouli. Patchouli Chic is a chic patchouli scent indeed, fusing powdery nuances and the light sweetness of vanilla to flank the more exotic shades of the Eastern bush.

Sarah Jessica Parker Lovely
In a sea of Narciso Rodriguez For Her smell-alikes, trying but no cigar for most, this celebrity fragrance in the floral woody musky category is the only truly worth investing contender. And it's not going to break the bank. Lovely by Sarah Jessica Parker shimmers with a smiling mien, pretty, light but definitely there, at the cusp between slightly dirty and shower clean. Forget the official "notes" about lavender and appletini that referenced the persona of Carrie in Sex & The City (which made possible for its star to front this fragrance), this is a sweet musk laced with a white floral accord. Abso-fucking-lutely lovely as Mr.Big would say!


Tabac by Maurer &Wirtz
The classic Tabac from 1955 is a reference aromatic fouger for those who have upgraded from their "me too" "chick magnet" fragrance choices. Preferable in the Eau de Cologne concentration (which is just as potent as Eau de Toilette), this is a good barber shop scent, the fusion of old-fashioned talc and laundry day lavender, clean with a whiff of mossy tobacco.
Top notes are aldehydes, lavender, neroli, bergamot and lemon; middle notes are carnation, sandalwood, orris root, jasmine, rose and pine tree needles; base notes are tonka bean, amber, musk, vanilla, oakmoss and tobacco.

Lidl Suddenly Lady Glamour
A very unassuming choice, coming from a German supermarket brand no less at huge markedown, but smell it side by side with Coco Mademoiselle and you just might be hard pressed to discern which smells better. I don't know what this says about Chanel, but it's good news for the pockets of those on a very tight budget not minding a dupe.

Zara Black Eau de Toilette
Zara on the other hand, despite the economical prices for high street fashion that looks as good as designer pret-a-porter is no slouch when it comes to glamourising its product. But the prices for their perfumes are still very good, probably because they follow the axiom of the clothes (covetable designs in affordable prices for chic Europeans). Zara Black smells like a very credible effort to reconciliate Flowerbomb with a softer aspect, rosy-fruitish and sweet with a delicious underlay of patchouli & musk. Zara fragrances are not to be bypassed.


Goeffrey Bean Grey Flannel
Geoffrey Been stroke gold with his Grey Flannel, a proud American classic and an innovative men’s cologne, bringing the shyness of violets into the realm of masculine confidence. Crisp greenery and musk tonalities (plus that seductive coumarin in the bottom) combine to evoke a man in a tailored suit, perfectly groomed, clean-smelling without one iota of modern aquatic “freshness” nevertheless. The man who wears this in cooler weather is the quiet type, a smart businessman or someone who has been opting for it for half his life and wisely knows not to change. If it ain’t broken, don’t fix it, as they say. The only misstep? Perhaps that flannel in question is really purplish green instead of grey. But we can be very forgiving in his case…

Halston by Halston
Iconic American designer of the 1970s Halston launched his eponymous fragrance for women in 1975. A graceful and confident chypre blend for women of the same spirit, Halston fuses minty green accords with melon and peach, seguing into a floral core rife with warm and sensual woods. A little soapy, quite celebral and yet sensuous compared to other sudsy fragrances aimed at germphobes or nuns.

Halston Z-14 (for men)
Mentioning the Halston brand twice should tell you something. Halston Z-14 is a masculine leather fragrance with aromatic accents (artemisia, basil, cypress) and mossy greens which was introduced as far back as 1974; nothing lasts that long on the market without merit! Giving it a sniff you will find out just what that first dedicated, loyal band of men knew all along: It acts on women like catnip does on cats! Boozy, deep and totally sexy, Halston Z14 is to be avoided by the very young, probably, but if you’re a man and not a boy, then, boy, will this be your badge of honor!

Princess Marella Borghese Il Bacio
Launched by the design house of Marcella Borghese in 1993, Il Bacio, meaning The Kiss in Italian, is that particular marvel: a good fruity floral. Fresh and crisp without screechiness nor surupy sweetness, it accents rose, iris and honeysuckle with the fruity armful of plum, melon and passionfruit, all on a base ofmusky amber. It sounds disgusting, I know, but give it a try. It's quite elegant and feminine, rather than juvenile.



What's YOUR favourite perfume steal?

Monday, May 23, 2011

Prada Candy: new fragrance

A new mainstream perfume by Prada is always reason to perk up one's ears. The Prada line, masterminded by perfumer Daniela Andrier is full of elegant, sleek compositions that meld with the wearer's skin; modern, but not out there; restrained but not insipid; in fact some of the best no brainers for people with brains.

The latest seems incongruent going by the name only, being named Prada Candy (Odd decision! Imagine the Google searches!).

But the composition sounds rather promising all the same: elegant musks up top, benzoin resin in the lower range of notes (much like in their best-selling Infusion d'Iris scent) and a caramel drydown which probably is the reference point for the name. I hypothesize it will be meant as a skin scent, much like most in the line-up is (especially the lovely Prada L'Eau Ambrée) and not a tooth-aching gourmand.

The bottle reminds me of a coffee press pot for filtered coffee. Very Bodum!
Prada Candy will hit stores in August 2011.

Annick Goutal Mon Parfum Cheri: new fragrance

The upcoming Mon Parfum Chéri par Camille, by Camille Goutal, marks the 30th anniversary of the house of Annick Goutal. The company was founded by Camille's pianist mother Annick and continued after the latter's demise by her daughter Camille to this day. Collaborating for long with perfumer Isabelle Doyen, the style of Annick Goutal fragrances is very French, feminine pretty and yet witty too.

This time, inspired by Colette novels, specifically the Claudine novels, the fragrance promises to encapsulate the mischievous, sensuous and adventurous spirit of the heroine herself. It's odd that Claudine features so highly in the concept, as the mere mention of Chéri in the name (literally "beloved" in French) reminds Colette readers of the cocksure, young and inwardly insecure hero by the same nickname.
Still, the creators reference a throwback to the golden age of Hollywood as well, instilling the creation with a retro glamour, dark red liquid in the classic gold gaudron-capped ribbed bottle in shades of violet, this time the ornamentary tag ribbon taking on a stripped pattern in anthracite.
The new Annick Goutal fragrance Mon Parfum Chéri (i.e. My Beloved Perfume) belongs to the floral woody musky fragrance family and features notes of Indonesian patchouli, powdery notes, violet, iris, heliotrope and sweet prunes. It will be available in Eau de Toilette concentration in 50ml and 100ml and in Eau de Parfum concentration in 100ml. The launch is set to be exclusively at Harrods, London on the 1st of July and world-wide distribution is set for September 2011.

The winner of the draw...

....for the Oscar de la Renta bottle is Estella N. Congratulations! Please send me your data using the profile or contact email so I can forward your shipping address to the proper person who will have your prize in the mail for you.

Thanks to everyone for the enthusiastic participation and till the next one!

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