Ormonde Jayne Opens on Sloane Street

Ormonde Jayne celebrates its tenth and most exciting year with today’s launch of the new flagship boutique in world famous Sloane Square, London. The third and newest address of Ormonde Jayne in London is 192 Pavillion Road (site of the old General Trading Company) and like the first boutique in Old Bond Street, it neighbours with Tiffany’s, Cartier & Links of London. Designed by Caulder Moore, the smoked glass & antique gold shagreen walls give the store Ormonde Jayne’s trademark sophisticated decadent look. According to the founder Linda Pilkington, it was waiting to happen because it was so fitting the concept of the firm anyway: “When I first saw the “to lease” sign on Pavillion Road, I knew it would be the perfect location for Ormonde Jayne and I have always loved Sloane Square. Our original business plan was to start looking by the end of 2011, but I operate on instinct! As we are an independent company without outside investors, we have the luxury of making quick decisions. Following the success of our debut in Harrods earlier this year, it felt like the next logical move. Sloane Square is an international address in the heart and soul of London & we are thrilled to be opening today”.

Don't forget to check our other Ormonde Jayne articles and news.

Outlaw Perfume: Revolutionizing the Industry One Step at Time

If you are one among the many perfume enthusiasts who in the last few years has been informed of the restrictions which have been self-imposed by the International Fragrance Association and the lobbying at Brussels in the European Union of several groups concerned with the allergens, hormone disruptors and other assorted impending signs of the coming Apocalypse in your humble Eau de Toilette, and have been severely icked, irrated and all around cussing beneath your breath, wielding your fist at the powers that be who nanny this existence for you, then read on. And rejoice, because not all is black and doom. A handful of perfumers (natural perfumers of the Guild on this occasion, but how far can more mainstream perfumers be?) are rebelling against perfumery restrictions which do not make much sense.

We're not talking about materials which have been proven to cause brain damage (a miniscule amount already banned since many many years), but of such innocuous and traditional ones such as citrus essence or lavender. Outlaw perfumery is not about being irresponsible, but about being level-headed. In a world where nuclear power risks and air pollutants pose a far greater risk, it seems adhering to a noli me tangere frame of mind is becoming unreasonable and ultimately laughable. If by any chance you had been a castaway these past 3-5 years in the middle of the Pacific or haven't really understood what this furore is all about, you can read all about it on these pages under Restrictions and under IFRA.

The guidelines of the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) and the laws of the European Union (EU) have created an era of vapid, soulless, synthetic perfumes due to the banning or severe usage level limits they have placed on historic perfume ingredients that are used in leave-on or wash-off fragrance products. Rose, jasmine, oakmoss and many other aromatics are now allowed only in tiny amounts, and their scentual presence is dimmed. Independent perfumers are not members of IFRA, but if they are in the EU, they have to abide by the rules. Independent perfumers are also aware of safety issue due to photosensitization, allergenic sensitization and irritation, et al. The Natural Perfumers Guild takes the stand that a warning label should be enough to allow us to use citrus, oakmoss, jasmine, rose and other cherished perfume materials in our creations. If a warning label is good enough for the potentially-deadly peanut, it should be good enough for a perfume that may give you a rash.
One among the perfumers, Anya McCoy, the president of the Natural Perfumers' Guild, says "Just by being a natural perfumer, I’m an outlaw in the eyes of the perfume establishment. I don’t use their synthetic materials and I am self-taught. It’s not a surprise I would not follow the dictates of the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) or the European Union (EU)"
A warning label suggested would perhaps read: “Warning label: Enjoy your Outlaw Perfume! It may contain aromatics or alcohol that could cause a slight skin reaction, so it be used with caution. Don’t apply perfume and go out in sunlight. As you would with any scented product, we recommend a patch test or you may spray the perfume in your hair, on an item of clothing, or on a small piece of cloth to tuck into a pocket or sleeve.” In fact isn't the Victorian idea of wearing perfume on a handkerchief, a locket or on hair a very romantic notion? Eschewing skin contact, our beloved perfumes can be reclaimed as our own! If they only let us...

So from this coming Monday November 15th expect to see news & reviews of Outlaw perfumes submitted by a pleiad of natural perfumers under a collective umbrella, crafting compositions that disregard the excessive fear and litigiousness of IFRA on these participating venues:

Gaia at The Non Blonde
Donna at the Examiner.com
Felicia at Fragrance Belles Lettres
Carol at Waft by Carol
Ida, Mark and Monica at Ca Fleure Bon
Lucy at Indie Perfumes
Beth at Perfume Smellin Things
Pat at Olfactarama


In fact I would be personally interested to hear your suggestions for the industry's perfumed products Warning Labels: keep them coming!!

pic originally uploaded on MUA

First Museum Exhibition of Perfume as Art Form in Museum of Arts & Design

"The first-ever museum exhibition on perfume as an art form will premiere at the Museum of Arts and Design in November 2011. Organized by MAD and curated by Chandler Burr, the scent critic for The New York Times, The Art of Scent, 1889-2011 will examine ten pivotal scents as masterful works of art, crafted from both natural raw materials and synthetic molecules. A special installation designed by architect Toshiko Mori that utilizes atomizing machines will provide visitors with a pure, olfactory experience of each work in the exhibition.
The Art of Scent highlights major stylistic developments in the history of olfactory art, beginning in the late nineteenth century—when the use of synthetic materials ushered in the modern era of fragrances—through the present day." [source]
The interesting part is that it will be a semi-blind reception of the odoriferous craftmanship that is ingrained in the 10 fragrances presented: the viewers will be smelling the scents in identical canisters, devoid of the outer characteristics and only demarcated by name, perfumer and year of creation; this idea is carried on to the exhibition catalogue that will offer 10 identical sample vials of the perfumes presented alongside essays by Chandler Burr. His goal? "My goal for this exhibition is to transform the ways in which people respond to scent artists and their art. The works presented in this exhibition are ones that have each had a profound impact on the history of this artistic medium." These works include Jicky, Chanel No.5, Fracas, Eau d'Issey, Angel and Pleasures.

Holiday Gift Guide 2010

It's that time of the year again, when we think about those we love and want to treat to something that will make them smile. Preferably if it caresses the senses it's even better! So let's see some suggestions for every need.

• For the pampered type or the great-ambience-loving friend:

Diptyque limited edition Noel 2010 candles trio: A collection of the famous Diptyque candles, 70g each, in Feu de Bois (Woodfire), Pomander and Sapin (Fir tree). They go for 66euros. Diptyque also makes big stand-alone candles(190g) for the holidays in festive-coloured glass jars with similarly festive scents to aromatize the house for the holidays: Pin (pine) in green, Oliban (olibanum/frankincense) in royal blue, and Orange Epicée (spicy orange) in ruby red.

And of course I can't but highly, highly recommend my beloved Opopanax which is sumptuous powdery orientalia in fragrant vapour... An amazing winter scent!!

• For the serious perfume-philiac:

Traversée du Bosphore, like its namesake strait, is the link between West and East, or rather, between cutting-edge modern French perfumery and its ancient Oriental roots.
Duchaufour eschewed cliches to come up with a composition that marries on the one hand Anatolian leather (suede more like it) and Turkish delight into a unique interpretation of the leather genre. Dry, powdery iris dusts the top notes, while saffron provides another leathery touch. on the other hand a fruity accord of tart apple and pomegranate referencing the apple-scented tobacco smoked in hookahs and the pomegranate juice sold in the markets. The final aftertaste is the rose pistachio-accented Turkish delight. A sweet leather scent for both sexes.

• For the cosmetics junkie:

I was sent info on a new line of non sticky, non glossy lip balms called Lip Elixirs. Created for both men and women, Lip Elixirs is an all-natural line of lip balms in a variety of cocktail flavors including Mimosa, Mojito, Vanilla Bourbon, Sassafras and Chocolate Martini.(You knew there would be some aromatic temptation, wouldn't you?) The lip products are made of Kukui nut oil, aloe and cocoa butters blended with all-natural essential oils and are packaged in a understated retro tin. I admit I would love to receive some Sassafras (with the taste of traditional root beer) or the rather unusually scented Mimosa myself!

• For those with a naturals streak running through them:

Cimbalom by Roxana Illuminated Perfume: This pure botanical fragrance has been named after the stringed instrument closely related to the hammered dulcimer. Like the exotic musical chordophone that can be found dating back to 3500 BC, melodic notes of jasmine with percussive beats of resinous amber and a flourish of citrus rind engage your senses. Cimbalom is a rich floriental featuring Labdanum, Indonesian Patchouli, Indian Jasmine, Ginger and Orange. The fragrance contains a limited edition tincture of jasmine sambac blossoms from the perfumer's woodland garden paired with three different jasmine absolutes. It is available as a liquid perfume extrait in .25ml, 1 ml (sample sizes) and the 7ml flacon as well as in a solid format at Roxana's E-shop. (And while there take a look at the Victorian lockets filled with solid perfume!)

Natural Perfumers' Guild Subscription: Treat someone who wants to seriously learn about perfumes (or yourself!) to a subscription to a great value program, hosted by the Guild of natural perfumers. All new members will receive 20% off the current membership fee. The categories below show the reduced rate, and will be available to all new members who join between October 20, 2010 and November 30, 2010. As a signup bonus, new members will be able to download 50+ vintage, classic and current valuable perfumery and perfumery-related books and articles. You can read the prices and sign up on this page. Give the gift that lasts a whole year! Anya McCoy also gives personal perfumery classes, providing a degree for those following the course, at Perfume Classes. Worth checking out as well.


Don't forget to read more suggestions on gift shopping on these blogs:

IndiePerfumes (Lucy)

Illuminated Perfume (Roxana)

All I Am- A Redhead (Ines)

Scent Hive (Trish)

pic of candle and macaroons via Chasing Rainbows, Kissing Frogs.

Serge Lutens Jeux de Peau: new fragrance

Serge Lutens is as prolific as ever and this coming March 1st another fragrance will join his olfactory seraglio in the oblong export bottles: Jeux de Peau (Zø de POH) aka Skin Games, a fragrance for both genders which reportedly smells like buttered toast! (And might even include a wheat extract we're told).
The eccentric idea of a novel gourmand (I recall the last major launch with grains notes was Simply by Clinique, although there were others) wants Serge Lutens seeking to recreate the odor of the buttered toast he enjoyed so much as a little boy! The unusual, "oriental-charred-wood scent", invites guesses as with all Lutens fragrances, while Serge himself professes in his usual controversial way, ‘Eat, for this is my body’. The Christian symbolism aside, Serge does invite personal mementos entering his fragrances which makes them all the more intriguing.
The formula like a nurturing and appetising breakfast of tartines and butter exhibits pronounced sandalwood/milky notes at the top, progressing into a "toast accord" with a few sweeter and floral facets next (reminiscent of rosewood), alongside sweeter and spicier ones such as a mix of licorice and coconut. The finish is built around a fruity touch (between apricot and osmanthus).
"It gets me back to the 'don't forget to pick up the bread on the way back from school!' At the boulangerie at the end of the road, its captivating odour and its blond and warm light, a golden moment..." says Serge. To recreate this harmony, Lutens and his perfumer have assembled dozens of essences, but also wheat and barley.

NB>I have updated with a full review of Jeux de Peau on this page.

Edit to Add:
The upcoming (export) fragrance by Lutens for summer 2011 will be called Vitriol d'Oeillet (Vitriolic Carnation) and naturally will be a carnation composition (as "oeillet" means carnation in French). The moniker Vitriol alludes to some brilliantly wicked take as the one in Tubéreuse Criminelle (Please perfume gods, make it so! Not to mention I have prayed for a carnation-spiked the Lutens way for a long time...)

Addition April 1st: The next Paris exclusive is De Profundis, coming out on September 1st inspired by Baudelaire's poems and death. De Profundis by Serge Lutens includes gladioli, chrysanthemums and dahlias in a green, almost aldehyde-like and darkly delicate fragrance, encompassing a chamomile withered peony effect.


Thanks to reader Uella who set me on the track of trademarked names to find this before any official news broke!

pics & notes via osmoz