First Museum Exhibition of Perfume as Art Form in Museum of Arts & Design

"The first-ever museum exhibition on perfume as an art form will premiere at the Museum of Arts and Design in November 2011. Organized by MAD and curated by Chandler Burr, the scent critic for The New York Times, The Art of Scent, 1889-2011 will examine ten pivotal scents as masterful works of art, crafted from both natural raw materials and synthetic molecules. A special installation designed by architect Toshiko Mori that utilizes atomizing machines will provide visitors with a pure, olfactory experience of each work in the exhibition.
The Art of Scent highlights major stylistic developments in the history of olfactory art, beginning in the late nineteenth century—when the use of synthetic materials ushered in the modern era of fragrances—through the present day." [source]
The interesting part is that it will be a semi-blind reception of the odoriferous craftmanship that is ingrained in the 10 fragrances presented: the viewers will be smelling the scents in identical canisters, devoid of the outer characteristics and only demarcated by name, perfumer and year of creation; this idea is carried on to the exhibition catalogue that will offer 10 identical sample vials of the perfumes presented alongside essays by Chandler Burr. His goal? "My goal for this exhibition is to transform the ways in which people respond to scent artists and their art. The works presented in this exhibition are ones that have each had a profound impact on the history of this artistic medium." These works include Jicky, Chanel No.5, Fracas, Eau d'Issey, Angel and Pleasures.

Holiday Gift Guide 2010

It's that time of the year again, when we think about those we love and want to treat to something that will make them smile. Preferably if it caresses the senses it's even better! So let's see some suggestions for every need.

• For the pampered type or the great-ambience-loving friend:

Diptyque limited edition Noel 2010 candles trio: A collection of the famous Diptyque candles, 70g each, in Feu de Bois (Woodfire), Pomander and Sapin (Fir tree). They go for 66euros. Diptyque also makes big stand-alone candles(190g) for the holidays in festive-coloured glass jars with similarly festive scents to aromatize the house for the holidays: Pin (pine) in green, Oliban (olibanum/frankincense) in royal blue, and Orange Epicée (spicy orange) in ruby red.

And of course I can't but highly, highly recommend my beloved Opopanax which is sumptuous powdery orientalia in fragrant vapour... An amazing winter scent!!

• For the serious perfume-philiac:

Traversée du Bosphore, like its namesake strait, is the link between West and East, or rather, between cutting-edge modern French perfumery and its ancient Oriental roots.
Duchaufour eschewed cliches to come up with a composition that marries on the one hand Anatolian leather (suede more like it) and Turkish delight into a unique interpretation of the leather genre. Dry, powdery iris dusts the top notes, while saffron provides another leathery touch. on the other hand a fruity accord of tart apple and pomegranate referencing the apple-scented tobacco smoked in hookahs and the pomegranate juice sold in the markets. The final aftertaste is the rose pistachio-accented Turkish delight. A sweet leather scent for both sexes.

• For the cosmetics junkie:

I was sent info on a new line of non sticky, non glossy lip balms called Lip Elixirs. Created for both men and women, Lip Elixirs is an all-natural line of lip balms in a variety of cocktail flavors including Mimosa, Mojito, Vanilla Bourbon, Sassafras and Chocolate Martini.(You knew there would be some aromatic temptation, wouldn't you?) The lip products are made of Kukui nut oil, aloe and cocoa butters blended with all-natural essential oils and are packaged in a understated retro tin. I admit I would love to receive some Sassafras (with the taste of traditional root beer) or the rather unusually scented Mimosa myself!

• For those with a naturals streak running through them:

Cimbalom by Roxana Illuminated Perfume: This pure botanical fragrance has been named after the stringed instrument closely related to the hammered dulcimer. Like the exotic musical chordophone that can be found dating back to 3500 BC, melodic notes of jasmine with percussive beats of resinous amber and a flourish of citrus rind engage your senses. Cimbalom is a rich floriental featuring Labdanum, Indonesian Patchouli, Indian Jasmine, Ginger and Orange. The fragrance contains a limited edition tincture of jasmine sambac blossoms from the perfumer's woodland garden paired with three different jasmine absolutes. It is available as a liquid perfume extrait in .25ml, 1 ml (sample sizes) and the 7ml flacon as well as in a solid format at Roxana's E-shop. (And while there take a look at the Victorian lockets filled with solid perfume!)

Natural Perfumers' Guild Subscription: Treat someone who wants to seriously learn about perfumes (or yourself!) to a subscription to a great value program, hosted by the Guild of natural perfumers. All new members will receive 20% off the current membership fee. The categories below show the reduced rate, and will be available to all new members who join between October 20, 2010 and November 30, 2010. As a signup bonus, new members will be able to download 50+ vintage, classic and current valuable perfumery and perfumery-related books and articles. You can read the prices and sign up on this page. Give the gift that lasts a whole year! Anya McCoy also gives personal perfumery classes, providing a degree for those following the course, at Perfume Classes. Worth checking out as well.


Don't forget to read more suggestions on gift shopping on these blogs:

IndiePerfumes (Lucy)

Illuminated Perfume (Roxana)

All I Am- A Redhead (Ines)

Scent Hive (Trish)

pic of candle and macaroons via Chasing Rainbows, Kissing Frogs.

Serge Lutens Jeux de Peau: new fragrance

Serge Lutens is as prolific as ever and this coming March 1st another fragrance will join his olfactory seraglio in the oblong export bottles: Jeux de Peau (Zø de POH) aka Skin Games, a fragrance for both genders which reportedly smells like buttered toast! (And might even include a wheat extract we're told).
The eccentric idea of a novel gourmand (I recall the last major launch with grains notes was Simply by Clinique, although there were others) wants Serge Lutens seeking to recreate the odor of the buttered toast he enjoyed so much as a little boy! The unusual, "oriental-charred-wood scent", invites guesses as with all Lutens fragrances, while Serge himself professes in his usual controversial way, ‘Eat, for this is my body’. The Christian symbolism aside, Serge does invite personal mementos entering his fragrances which makes them all the more intriguing.
The formula like a nurturing and appetising breakfast of tartines and butter exhibits pronounced sandalwood/milky notes at the top, progressing into a "toast accord" with a few sweeter and floral facets next (reminiscent of rosewood), alongside sweeter and spicier ones such as a mix of licorice and coconut. The finish is built around a fruity touch (between apricot and osmanthus).
"It gets me back to the 'don't forget to pick up the bread on the way back from school!' At the boulangerie at the end of the road, its captivating odour and its blond and warm light, a golden moment..." says Serge. To recreate this harmony, Lutens and his perfumer have assembled dozens of essences, but also wheat and barley.

NB>I have updated with a full review of Jeux de Peau on this page.

Edit to Add:
The upcoming (export) fragrance by Lutens for summer 2011 will be called Vitriol d'Oeillet (Vitriolic Carnation) and naturally will be a carnation composition (as "oeillet" means carnation in French). The moniker Vitriol alludes to some brilliantly wicked take as the one in Tubéreuse Criminelle (Please perfume gods, make it so! Not to mention I have prayed for a carnation-spiked the Lutens way for a long time...)

Addition April 1st: The next Paris exclusive is De Profundis, coming out on September 1st inspired by Baudelaire's poems and death. De Profundis by Serge Lutens includes gladioli, chrysanthemums and dahlias in a green, almost aldehyde-like and darkly delicate fragrance, encompassing a chamomile withered peony effect.


Thanks to reader Uella who set me on the track of trademarked names to find this before any official news broke!

pics & notes via osmoz

Bulgari Jasmin Noir: fragrance review

What does it say if a perfume writer ~who is supposed to stay atop trends and new things (or at the other end of the spectrum occupy herself with rhapsodising over classics and unearthing rare vintages)~ decides to write about a perfume by Italian jewellers, coming out as recently as 2008 and semi-forgotten amidst the plethora of new releases? Is it a testament to delayed reflexes, that upon revisiting Jasmin Noir by Bulgari (or Bvlgari if you want to keep the Roman spelling) several months after its launch, I found myself captivated mid-bottle by its rich, woody, full-bodied and curvaceous silhouette? At this point, I cannot deny the pull that a mainstream but really well-made fragrance can exert upon me.

After a handful of maudlin and wall-paperish "me too" scents by the brand in recent years, like Omnia Green Jade, Voile de Jasmin or Bulgari Aqua, I didn't really expect waves; yet I was pleasantly surprised to find myself curiously attached to my classic bottle which reprises the elegant, frosty glass lines of Bulgari Pour Femme, only this time in lacquered black. Perfumers Carlos Benaim and Sophie Labbée at IFF nailed it this time around: The composition smells rich and classy, with a succulent hint, but not too floral and rather subdued, fulfilling the criteria of modern consumers in the 25-40 group to which they originally catered for. A concept well visualised in the commercials featuring Kate Moss with serious bling on her neck. But the fragrance stands on its own two feet, away from any industry brief or statistical focus group aspirations.

If Jasmin Noir isn't more sung by the perfume trobadours, it has to do with a certain incongruity between name (and therefore promise) and delivery: This is a floral woody rather than the reverse, with segments taken from both Sensuous by Lauder and Tom Ford's Black Orchid, while the emphasis is neither on jasmine nor on any sinister noir proclivities. Bulgari themselves say: "Jasmin Noir is a flower of the imagination. It is white, immaculate, and conveyes pure mystery, revealing intriguing sensuality at nightfall". And I would have to agree with the imaginative part as well as the sensuous promise, if not the white descriptions which leads one to expect a white floral.
Bulgari's Jasmin Noir starts on the sparkling green note of budding gardenia (full of the piquant, fresh note of styralyl acetate) opening into a vague ~not very identifiable~ fresh jasmine vine accord which soon exits the scene. Floral haters shouldn't be frightened, nor should indole-phobics pause: this is the equivalent of a thriller by Roman Polanski; blink and you miss the scary parts, it's so subtle. Nutty and lactonic (milky) accents and the dominant, permeating, pleasant scent of licorice then appear, muting the floralcy and embracing the whole in a different sort of sensuality than that of white flowers; cozy, youthful sexy, very modern with a good dose of aromachemical Ambroxan, but not insipid. This stage lasts at sotto voce (we're talking quite discreet sillage here) almost for the duration of the fragrance's presence on skin, taking a subdued ambery-vanillic haze, flou and sustained for a long, long time. The perfect "I miss your scent on the sheets" kinda of fragrance...

People who like Tom Ford Black Orchid Voile de Fleur for its emphatically feminine floral notes (tuberose) and also like the woody backdrop of the original Black Orchid but are seeking to branch out a bit, are advised to try Jasmin Noir by Bulgari. Lovers of Guerlain's 90s classic Samsara who want something more subdued and youthful might find in Jasmin Noir a helpful ally. Men who are not averse to a little sweetness (and anise) with their cologne and like the idea of Lolita au Masculin might steal a spritz or two as well.

Bulgari Jasmin Noir notes:
Top: green sap, gardenia petals
Heart: jasmine sambac absolute, satiny almond
Base: precious wood, licorice, tonka bean absolute.

Jasmin Noir is available in Eau de Parfum concentration from major department stores and from bulgari.com.



Pic of sexy Greek actress Zoe Laskari via movie-musical-world

Yosh Han: Meet & Greet in NYC

Jodi Arnold NYC is hosting the launch of one of Yosh Han's successful, all-natural fragrances, held at the homonymous fashion boutique this Thursday, Nov. 11 from 6pm-8pm. Renowned artisanal perfumer Yosh Han will appear at Jodi Arnold NYC at 56 University Place (at 10th Street). Come meet Yosh and experience her new Evanescent Collection. The fragrance expert will also help attendees customize their scent, using a unique blend of chakra energy, numerology, and fragrance families.

"The women who say they 'hate perfume' are often the same ones who love the larger world of aromas, like scented flowers, savory cuisine, decadent desserts, and aromatic wines. 'Perfume haters' have negative feelings about the existing conventional way of perfume perception: mass-market department store overload or too much perfume in a small elevator. When you’re in a busy department store, your primal instincts and adrenals kick in. And if you have one too aggressive sales person pushing that smell on you, well, it’s understandable why you may have an adverse reaction to perfume." - Yosh Han

Read a full interview with Yosh.

There is no ticket or reservation involved. You can see more current info on Facebook.