How are Chanel Perfumes Composed?

The order in which all Chanel perfume formulae are made, according to head perfumer Jacques Polge in this little interview of course, since usually perfume is composed the other way around, a propos the launch of the latest Bleu de Chanel for men, are:

1. Fresh top notes (think of traditional citrus and herbal scents like mint)
2. Fruity notes
3. Spicy notes
4. Jasmine notes
5. Rose notes
6. White flowers notes (tuberose, orange blossom absolute etc)
7. Woody notes
8. Amber notes
9. Musks

Corresponds pretty much to the volatility charts for specific ingredients hereby grouped into the larger "families" above. Interesting, no?



Please note I followed the order and context of meaning from the French; I found the English subtitles occasionally confused what was (meant to be) simple clarification on some points...I have to say Jacques did repeat twice "spicy notes" though, before and after jasmine. I'm sure it was merely a lapse of the tongue.

Harrods Perfume Diaries Exhibition & Afternoon Tea with a twist

In a delightful combination of tea and perfume Harrods of London will host a perfume exhibition curated by fragrance expert Roja Dove in collaboration with Givaudan entitled The Perfume Diaries this autumn, coinciding with London Fashion Week.
The schedule for the events is as follows:

To complement the exhibition the world’s finest and most revered perfumers will discuss their work in a series of events. These will take place within The Perfume Diaries exhibition, on the Fourth Floor at Harrods, and will work on a drop-in basis. No admission charge applies.

Jade Jagger for Guerlain - Personal Appearance and Fragrance Signing
Wednesday 8th September 2010, 12.30pm – 2pm
Jagger reveals her interpretation of Guerlain’s legendary Shalimar bottle

The House of Guerlain
Thursday 9th September 2010, 6.30pm – 7.30pm
Enjoy a unique presentation by renowned perfumers Jean-Paul Guerlain and Thierry Wasser. To reserve a place at this highly anticipated event please call 020 7730 1234 ext 3020

An Evening of British Perfumery
Thursday 16th September 2010, 6.30pm – 8.00pm
Explore the best of British perfumery, led by curator Roja Dove, with key speakers from Ormonde Jayne, Floris, Grossmith, Penhaligon's and Clive Christian

An Evening of European Perfumery
Tuesday 21st September 2010, 6.30pm – 8.00pm
A celebration of European perfumery, led by curator Roja Dove, with key speakers from Lubin, Mona di Orio, Chantecaille and Givenchy

The Science of Scent
Thursday 23rd September 2010, 6.30pm – 8.00pm
Discover the fascinating creation process of how a fragrance is made, with experts from Givaudan and Proctor & Gamble

The Bottle Makers
Thursday 30th September 2010, 6.30pm - 8.00pm
Discover the history and beauty of the perfume bottle with experts from iconic brand Baccarat

The Perfume Diaries Afternoon Tea
Master pâtissier Eric Lanlard has collaborated with Harrods pastry chefs to create a limited edition afternoon tea inspired by key perfume notes and ingredients. "Eric distils the spirit of the exhibition with a range of six beautifully-crafted pastries, cakes and miniature puddings. Exclusive to Harrods, each delicacy is infused with prominent perfume notes from the classic rose, violet and spice to the more specialised bergamot and lemongrass".
Thursday 2nd September – Saturday 2nd October 2010
Indulge in fragrant afternoon tea in the Georgian Restaurant
Entry via Door 3, Basil Street

Reserve seats for Guerlain event at telephone: 020 7730 1234 ext. 3020

The exhibition previews from Saturday 28th August.

Pic via Cherie City

Guerlain L'Abeille: Crystal Sculpture, New Fragrance

We're always happy to confirm rumours which we had started on this place (last December) and this is the latest one: Guerlain teamed again with Baccarat to manufacture a massive flacon for the ultra-exclusive flacon of their new perfume called L'Abeille de Guerlain. The name means of course..."bee" and it's meant to look like a gigantic bee with its wings faceted like precious diamonds.

Only 42 numbered pieces has been made, each containing 245 ml of pure extrait de parfum for 12.500 Euros (Who said there's a financial crisis? And -brace yourselves- it's even more than the initially reported 8000 euros we had stated!). Composed by Thierry Wasser who was aiming to "see a garden from a bee's perspective", that is pollen, chlorophyl, sunny flowers: Mimosa, orange blossom, and jasmine. And a scent of honey which "marries so well with summer flowers". Wasser warns this alloy might "syrupy thick" if not properly treated but tells us the end result "flies like an angel, diffuses without suffocating, twines around the marvellous iris, so precisely powdery". Hmm, I doubt I can say "we will see" at those prices (initial reports talk about an at once carnal and fresh white floral with powdery aspects), although I'm sure a sample might find its way to my desk eventually. Till then!

Guerlain in the meantime says there are no plans to bring this into smaller, plainer bottles: "Not yet" at least. If the case of of Mon Précieux Nectar is any indication, these things are created to be split from the get-go, with a couple bottles snatched by avid collector-maniacs and a couple more displayed as design art in Guerlain boutiques across the world, me thinks...What do you think?

Related reading: The Symbolism of Bee & Honey Scents, Guerlain series (reviews & history of scents), Guerlain News , Upcoming releases

Added info and pic via Mr.Guerlain, many thanks.

Back...

It's not easy to drift back into routine after immersing oneself into the paradisial and atmospheric Santa Marina, but one has to, I guess. So expect a post later today and hope you have had a great time while I was gone, too!

It's My Life...

...and I'll do what I want and what I want right now is vacationing! So depending on whether Internet connection is available while I'm travelling, these pages will be perhaps updated. I will "see" you all shortly. Keep smelling good!
Photo taken by robw on flickr, Some Rights Reserved