Annick Goutal Musc Nomade: fragrance review & draw

It wouldn't be an overstatement to claim that Musc Nomade By Annick Goutal is an exceptional piece of perfumery and among musk fragrances it really stands apart, poised between the crossroads of animalic and clean, defined by neither, or -better yet- interpreting both qualities in equal measure to the point you forget about classifications and just revel in its chiaroscuro sensuality. If pressed, I'd say it's a "vegetal musk". And it is.


Musc Nomade (2008) is the fourth addition in the Les Orientalistes line which was introduced with Ambre Fétiche, Myrrhe Ardent and Encens Flamboyant. The inspiration of the scents was said to be the smells of the harem and perfumer Isabelle Doyen masterfully wove in sensuous, denser whiffs in the familiar fabric of gauze that runs through the Goutal brand, thus marrying two antithetical elements: opulence and transparency. Annick Goutal was already enchanted by the sophistication of musc devotees, the Qatar Princesses, who bathed their bodies and hair in a divine blend of musk powder and rose essence, and fragranced their rooms by burning oud wood. She dreamed of capturing the aphrodisiac effect of this material reputed to stir the senses and hold men captivated... Camille Goutal, the next in line after Annick's passing, decided to do an ecological musk and with the help of Isabelle Doyen they defied convention in that they produced a vibrant, lightly "animalic" musk without the use of animal-derived products.

To do that Isabelle Doyen employed Muscone, a very refined -and costly- ingredient which is the odorous principle of natural deer musk, married with the natural macrocyclic musks (see relevant article) present in angelica root (containing 12-methyl-13-tridecanolide and Exaltolide) and ambrette seeds. The artistry lies in manipulating raw materials which are difficult to handle: Angelica root essence is musty, with a note of bitters and the liquid emulsifies in alcohol dilution making the mixture cloudy like a glass of pastis. Nevertheless, Doyen managed to bypass all these problems and the juice is perfectly clear with an aromatic top note that singes the nose hairs most delightfully the way a good gin does, to unfold later on a dirty, pleasantly "skanky" ambience that recalls the smooth fur of Muscs Kublai Khan by Lutens and the cozy sex-on-the-haystack feel of L'Air de Rien by Miller Harris.

Smelling Musc Nomade you're left with the impression that it is topless; in both senses of the word: It feels natural, bien dans sa peau, quite nude, and at the same time like it misses those frills routinely put in to jolt the customer into paying attention. On the contrary, Musc Nomade insinuates like a murmur in the ear late at night or minimalist tunes on harmonics-series instruments. The rosiness (reminiscent of the Lutens floralcy in his own musk oeuvre) is an illusion rendered through the facets of Bombay wood, furling and unfurling thanks to a herbal-sweet note like patchouli. Musc Nomade is individual and defies any familiarity one has of drugstore musks, eschewing the sweet vanilla and sandalwood warmth for the "dirtiness" of labdanum, an almost animalic plant raw material, and for a woody backdrop that is very appealing and fit for both sexes. It can be layered effortlessly under the other Orientalistes scents in the collection or practically under any other fragrance.
Its individual character and unassuming sensuality put it in my top 5 choices for musk fragrances.

For our readers, a draw for a decant of Musc Nomade! Leave a comment to enter. Draw open till Sunday midnight.

Notes for Annick Goutal Musc Nomade:
Muscone, white musk stemming from angelica root and ambrette seed, tonka beans, labdanum, Bombay wood (a papyrus variety)

Musc Nomade circulates in Eau de Parfum concentration in two bottle designs (depicted) with exactly the same scent (same as with all the Orientalistes!): One is the feminine ribbed bottle, the other the sleek rectangular masculine one with gold accents. I personally find the somber lines of the masculine design with the lovely arabesque motifs in the labels more fitting this line of enigmatic scents.

Related reading on Perfume Shrine: Annick Goutal news & reviews, Scented Musk-eteers: musk fragrances reviews




Clip from the film Il Ventre dell'Architetto by Peter Greenaway, Struggle for pleasure by Wim Mertens.

The winner of the draw...

...for the Lutens decant is Perfumaniacs Anonymous. Congratulations! Please email me with your data using the contact email in the profile at the right, so I can have this out to you soon.
Thanks to everyone for their participation and till the next one!

Annick Goutal Distribution in USA Under BPI Aegis

Great news for US fans of the Annick Goutal line of pretty and interesting fragrances! After a problematic distribution which resulted in unsubstantiated rumours of discontinuing the line across the pond, Beauté Prestige International has announced (and it has been broadcast on several venues) that their USA branch will be marketing and distributing the brand themselves under an exclusive agreement.



Previously the Goutal line of fragrances, skincare, home scents and candles was carried at select doors including Barney's, Bergdorf Goodman, Bloomingdale's, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom and Saks Fifth Avenue. Several products however were out of stock for a long time in the past year, raising concerns. The explanation was simple, as stated in simple terms by The Non Blonde. Now we learn even more details. "BPI spokesperson Jessica Barlow told CosmeticsDesign.com USA that for the last 9 months Annick Goutal has been handling the distribution of its products in the US from its Paris headquarters. BPI will maintain the current distribution channel, said Barlow, which currently stands at approximately 150 prestige stores".
The Goutal brand, founded in 1980 by former model and pianist Annick Goutal herself and with a strong personal streak running through the creations, was associated with the Taittinger group and by extension with Baccarat crystal in 1985. After the death of Annick in 1999 Brigitte Taittinger entrusted Camille Goutal (one of Goutal's daughters) and Isabelle Doyen, Annick's perfumer since 1988 with the continuation of the brand, which materialised admirably. The Goutal company was acquired by the Starwood Capital Group in September 2005, alongside the whole Taittinger Group. And now, another change.
May I remind you that the Parisian-based mother company, Beauté Prestige International, are handling the Shiseido and Lutens portfolio with great results so far. And the USA branch is also handling the distribution of parfums Hermes in the States. Also included in the company’s portfolio are fragrances from Issey Miyake, Jean Paul Gaultier and Narcisco Rodriguez. So it all worked out for the best!

According to Forbes: "Over the past three decades, the name Annick Goutal has become virtually synonymous with the very highest level of quality and luxury in the realm of lifestyle fragrances," says Nicholas Munafo, President of Beaute Prestige International USA. "The perfumery house has consistently raised the bar with each successive launch, solidifying its position as a leading creator of artisanal scents, while faithfully maintaining the traditions so integral to its core values. BPI's proven strategy of growing distinctive, high-end fragrance brands in limited distribution channels seems a natural fit for Annick GoutalParfums, and we are well-positioned to maximize the brand's significant potential in the US market."
According to Brigitte Taittinger, President of Annick Goutal, "Since the creation of the brand, the US market has always been our first export market. Our distribution, very selective since the beginning, is a reflection of our brand positioning. We have total trust in the 'know how" of BPI USA to support the development of Annick Goutal in the states, respectful of our image and specificities".

The new distribution agreement will be effective as of July 1st, 2010.

Photo of Goutal boutique by the helpful Lianne Tio in the Netherlands.

M.Micallef Royal Muska: fragrance review

Royal Muská is a relative newcomer in the game of musk fragrances, being issued by niche brand M.Micallef in as recently as 2008, yet it has gained something of a cult status already, thanks to its cloudy soft, warmish personality, with a gentle sheen like mother-of-pearl and a ray or two of the sun hidden in there.

Fragrantica describes it as "the fragrance of tanned skin, of hot days and sultry nights" and classifies it under "fruity floral". How can a musk be tropical, you ask? Well, with the suffusion of salicylates, molecules naturally present in ylang ylang essence, of which perfumer Martine Micallef made ample use. The effect is like a delectable whiff of baked skin, almost amber-ed over with a hint of Ambre Solaire suntan lotion, but only a little. It's also rather soapy (rosy aldehydic), especially when smelled at an arm's length rather than up close, yet without any harsh alcaline edges or lily-of-the-valley "clean" vibe. Yes, it's a clean, white musk, but not quite. The best way I could describe it is "hazy", puffy-pillowy and honeyed sweetish, a real skin-scent.
Then again you might heed Katie Puckrick's warning if you're averse to musks in general, who says "on paper it seems like the kind of thing I'd dig. But I don't. It bugs me. Seems a little rank, like the inside of my friend from 6th grade’s not-very-clean house". In fragrance parlance, this is often associated with "mature" scents and I guess it is, somewhat, although it certainly lacks the complexity of old blends which incorporated musk as a supporting actor rather than the protagonist.

Royal Muská comes as an Eau de Parfum and is usually referred to as Royal Muska, the accent omitted in oversimplification, so don't get alarmed if you find it with either spelling online. More feminine than unisex, although theoretically it could be carried by both sexes. And caveat emptor regarding possible musk anosmia just like with Musc Bleu by Il Profumo applies here as well. The rectangular bottle is impressive and luxurious, even better looking than the round Micallef ones.

Notes for M.Micallef Royal Muská:
Ylang ylang, rose, white musks, precious woods, fruit notes, crystal musk and benzoin.

Related reading on Perfume Shrine: The Musk Series (ingredients & cultural history), Scented Musketeers: Musk fragrances reviews.


Photo from the Greek film Mantalena, 1960, starring Aliki Vougiouklaki and Dimitris Papamichael.

Chrstina Hendricks Loves Some Manly Smell!

In the new issue of Esquire magazine, in a column devoted to 'Mad Men' beauty Christina Hendricks, the real-woman's-body champion dares to tell men what she really thinks about them: 'We love your body. If we're in love with you, we love your body. Your potbelly, everything,' Hendricks writes in 'A Letter to Men.'
'Speaking of your body, you don't understand the power of your own smell. Any woman who is currently with a man is with him partly because she loves the way he smells.'
We're hanging from your every word, dear Christina...