Prada L'Eau Ambree: fragrance review

L'Eau Ambrée, maestra Miuccia’s latest fragrance, talks with the whispers of a ghost; an ectoplasmic take on the dry woody, patchouli and ~most imporantly~ ambery core of the original Prada fragrance mingled with the saline note of Eau de Merveilles that reproduced the scent of ambergris rather than sweet resinous amber (For more on the differences between amber and ambergris read this article). Ghost-like in its evanescence, gossamer-light, leaving behind but the memory of someone living in a grey-hued photograph that captures its ether.

This new gouache of an oriental is possibly the most skin-scent-like Prada ever issued, even more so than Infusion d'iris. One could even consider it an embryo of the idea of an "oriental" for the next decade and beyond: Will it induce hallucinations of orientalia beneath the gauzy veil to the modern day sylphids who worship at the altar of austere Prada? It remains to be seen. I see it as a step in that direction and the beginning of a new trend in perfumery.
Lovers of diaphanous ambergris creations and those able to smell Isabelle Doyen's L'Antimatière by Les Nez might find something to take them through every eventuality: The fragrance enters the scene in a light-through-the-tunnel vista, all hazy linings, via its refreshing top (which isn't quite as citrusy as purported nor is it rosy, but it's certainly cypress-like and with a micro-facet of white flowers tucked in someplace inside). And then it takes on a little tone of sweet, slightly salty sweat musk, not a tetrapod's raunchy howl, but the smell of seashore in spring and the bodies that lie down on its fluffy texture (cozy musks with no big sweetness have this effect). Yet the refinement of the drydown is so delicate that it could find its way along with your Prada frames and eponymous canvas tote to the office. And surprisingly for such a light scent it lasts too with a lingering trail, which as March put it: "It dries down and fades away but has a habit of popping up again and again, all day long".
According to Prada, 'L’Eau Ambrée is a perfume that ‘imposes itself discreetly with the perfect balance of classic influences and of modernity that is characteristic of Prada fragrances. This eau ‘twines complexity, freshness and harmony’ around a sleek, contemporary amber'.

L'Eau Ambrée, the latest in the Prada amber-based perfumes (amber is in the original Prada, as well as in Prada pour homme) was developed by perfumer Daniela Andrier and was launched this past September, with the expectation to be a permanent mainstay in the line unlike the ephemeron Infusion de Fleurs d'oranger.
Prada’s original bottle has taken a dark mantle here, adorned with a golden plaque instead of the silver of the original.

Prada L'Eau Ambrée is available through major department stores in Eau de Parfum 1oz/30ml, 1.7oz/50ml and 2.7oz/100ml.; Eau de parfum Deluxe refillable atomizer (with spray bulb) 2.7 oz/100ml and 2.7-oz./100ml refill; Body Lotion 6.8 oz./200ml; Bath & Shower Gel 6.8 oz./200ml; Body Cream 6.8 oz./200ml; Powder with powder puff 3.5 oz/100ml.

Notes for Prada L’Eau Ambrée:
Top: Citron, citrus, mandarin from Italy
Heart: Rose, gardenia jasminoides, patchouli
Base: Amber, vanilla, oppoponax

The advertisments are lovingly retro in an almost frieze-reprising way: a cheeky manner of eschewing the sexy-mania of other houses, a deliberate abhoring of seduction that comes from the mind of a true Marxist designer not interested in the man-hunting games of the western tradition, Miuccia Prada.





Michigan Central Station ghost, photo by Nicole Rork via michpics.wordpress.com
Acropolis Parthenon Hydrophoroi scene from the East frieze. Clips originally uploaded by gottalovebirds and stylistaonline on youtube

The fragrance of Ma-I: scent exhibition in Singapore

A scented exhibition is taking place at the Singapore Art Museum where the fragrance bar installated showcases fragrances with names like Squalor, Opulence and Pahinga (the last one evokes coconut massage oil memories of the creator's childhood.

"Filipino artist Christina Goldie Poblador has created the smells of a city: Think whiffs of gasoline or rotten eggs, which is supposed to remind people of government. There are more pleasant fragrances too, which are associated with friendship and family. Her fascinating mixed-media installation work, comprising 30 perfumes in handmade glass bottles, is titled Ang Halimuyak Ng Ma-I or The Fragrance Of Ma-I, the pre-colonial name of the Philippines.
The “fragrances” were created as part of her studio art graduation project at the University of Philippines in March. It created so much interest that it has travelled to three locations in Manila and made it to a prestigious Filipino art showcase here".

Read the rest of the article on this strange but interesting exhibition on The Malaysian Insider

Related reading on Perfumeshrine: Scented Memoirs.

Pic via travel-images.com

Christmas '09 Gifts Ideas: Special Flacons

Christmas is a prime time for treating others or you to that special something that seemed unatainable the rest of the year. Accordingly, perfume companies issue their very best, choicest , weirdest or just plain ginormous at the countdown till Christmas and the New Year (especially since they have been witnessing a 11% decline in sales). Here are some of the most impressive specimens this season.

Nasomatto (the line respendid with a manifesto) issued Black Afgano in a gigantic limited edition of extrait de parfum of 2000ml! (that's two liters of parfum folks, enough to last two lifetimes). Only 20 engraved packages are issued around the world. What can I say? You have to reaaaaaally love Black Afgano!



Thierry Mugler (and the Clarins company behind him distributing his fragrances line) is no stranger to the game of limited editions. Each year they bring on something out. This year the collector's Superstar flacon encrusted with Swarovski crystals is a staggering 14.2oz for an equally awe-inspiring 3,000$. Well... Another approach is story-telling: In collaboration with Givaudan, the Seven fashion boutique in New York created the Six Scents Series. Each of the 6 scents comes accompanied by a DVD that contains a film and photography that tells a story around the theme of each of them.

Others are more designer-cool: Frangrance by German designer Alexa Lixfeld extold the virtues of concrete-block lids and comes as a jarring surprise on one's vanity (the mere thought of it on a vanity is an oxymoron, come to think of it; you might want to exhibit it on a Phillipe Stark designed countertop or your Saab-hiding garage). Clearly just the bottle to jumpstart spirited discussions on contemporary design!




And there is also the angle of nostalgia. Grossmith (with whom we will occupy ourselves very soon, promise!) is a fragrance line originally founded in 1865 and regally worn by Queen Victoria. The commercial demise of the house in the middle of the 20th century left the brand in limbo until the great great grandson of the founder relaunched the scents with updated flacons subtly nodding to the retro bottles.





Pic via psfk.com, premiereavenue, saksfifthavenue

Smelling like dead celebrities?

"If you ever wanted to smell like Elvis or Marilyn Monroe? Now you can. According to the Daily News, a company in Beverly Hills is formulating a line of "antiquity" fragrances. The scents are based on the DNA of dead celebrities. Bottles of the perfume are sold online for about $60. Other celeb scents include Albert Einstein, Michael Jackson and Richard Nixon". [quote]



Nah....just go participate in our Perfumista Challenge Project.

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