Ineke: Fragrant Presentation

It is often that I am taken by surprise in not having sampled lines which are making a ripple in the pond of niche perfumery: After all one can test only so much! My surprise turned into elation when I got the Deluxe Sample Pack that contains samples of all the current collection by Ineke. Not only is the presentation modern and aesthetically fabulous, it has the distinct air of care and understated luxury printed all over it. Coming in an anthracite box of velvety feel it opens like a matchbox to reveal five small cardboard boxes with different designs on them which you slide to open. Inside are little spray vials (actually there's quite enough quantity in each to allow for numerous tests!), each wrapped in correspondingly coloured paper. So cute! Perhaps the loveliest presentation of fragrances I have seen in sample form and a lesson for all niche brands.
The fragrances themselves reveal vignettes in Ineke's mind which she was searching a way to communicate to the public, given her preceding love for literature.

Ineke Rühland is a Canadian perfumer, the soul behind the Ineke line. She is a classically-trained perfumer who creates beautiful, original scents in her independent studio in San Francisco. She studied perfumery at ISIPCA in Versailles, France (the only official school of perfumery), under the guidance of Yves de Chiris who also helped her train at Quest thereafter and with formidable mentors such as Dominique Ropion and Isabel Doyen.
She apprenticed for three years at a fragrance house in Paris, making pilgrimages to Grasse, perfume capital of the world. Ineke finally decided to move to San Franciso, where she makes her luminous, modern fragrances.

The innovation of the collection is that each fragrance begins with a consecutive letter of the alphabet: A - After My Own Heart; B - Balmy Days and Sundays; C - Chemical Bonding; D - Derring-Do; E-Evening edged in Gold (the latest which came out recently). This original concept allows for both a little literary word play as the fragrant stories pick up from a word starting with each letter and it also serves as a wonderfully practical reminder of which perfume is the latest one, easing the customer into experiencing the evolution of the line.

The Deluxe Sample Collection contains spray samples of all 5 fragrances wrapped in a beautiful soft box with almost the tactile feel of brushed suede and the price is fully redeemable with any product purchase: A great way to try the scents!

After My Own Heart, which Ineke describes as "the scent of fresh lilacs floating on the early breeze" will get a full review shortly. To whet your appetite, I will merely state that it is a soft, subtly sweet, realistic enough lilac scent full of the airy feel of mid-spring. Lilac is an elusive blossom (because it can't be successfully distilled or a true essence extracted) which I dearly hold close to my heart indeed, so some more attention will be given to this one on Perfume Shrine. It has notes of bergamot, raspberry, green foliage, lilac, sandalwood, heliotrope and musk.

Balmy Days and Sundays veers towards a green floral scent with a lightly earthy backnote. It derives its name from The Carpenters' song "Rainy Days And Sundays" but it is in fact its antithesis. Sunny, optimistic and laid back, not rainy at all. Officially described as "a perfume about perfect moments on a relaxing Sunday, lying in the grass, breathing the smells of sweet scented flowers and fragrant leaves", it encompasses notes of freesia, leafy greens, grass, honeysuckle, rose, mimosa, a chypre accent and musk. There is an ozonic note mingled with the freesias that somehow doesn't clinch it for me, although I have to admit that it is not the usual screechy ozonic that we have come to associate with 90s perfumery. The feel is limpid and airy, without the dreaded feel of getting your nose hairs singed by the intense icy "freshness".

Chemical Bonding has uplifting citrus notes with a powdery, clean musk dry down. It is a fragrance that "playfully juxtaposes Chemistry 101 principles with human attraction", comprised of notes of smooth citrus cocktail, tea, blackberry, dewy peony, vetiver, amber and powdery musk. Although musk (as well as powder and vetiver) always catches my attention and I was fully prepared to love this above all others, it proved to be my least favorite in the lineup. Perhaps it is the wrong feel of fresh, a little too high pitched for what I imagined as a soft powdery and earthy with the grass musk. However I can fully see how it fits a summery mood of laid-back lifestyle, cotton clothes drying in the breeze and a cool juice sipped on a bright morning shared between a loving couple.

Derring Do is "an ode to the literary rogue" and comes from old English; a masculine with aromatic touches in the fougère family. Built on a fresh citrus blend, rain notes, cyclamen, magnolia, fougère accents, cardamom, pepper, guaiacwood, cedarwood and musk, the composition is really pleasant, soft and nicely unisex with its subdued woods and spices.
With its effortless character it managed to garner two compliments the day I wore it and its remnants on skin were beckoning me to apply again and again.

Evening Edged in Gold is a departure for the line in that it misses that sparse and translucent feel of the Jean Claude Ellena and Olivia Giacobetti school of thought going instead for a full bodied floriental that aims at serious evening seduction. Like munching Life Savers and plums under a blossoming tree in the heart of summer, it shows that Ineke has diversity and explores new horizons. Who knows what the next one will bring! It comprises notes of notes of osmanthus, plum, angel's trumpet, saffron, cinnamon bark, midnight candy, leather and woods. Angel's Trumpet and Midnight Candy are both plants (poisonous! closely related to datura) which project their sweet smell far in the evening breeze to aid pollination. Their magic is rendered through synthesis and married to the heavenly apricoty aroma of osmanthus, a flower prized in the East, they render a charming composition with a subtle leathery, slightly spicy and woodsy drydown that holds the whole in check, vaguely reminiscent of Daim Blond by Lutens.

Fragrances come in a sparse, hefty glass bottle of 75ml/2.5oz Eau de Parfum concentration and retail at 88$.
They are available at: Beautyhabit, Takashimaya, Begdorf Goodman, Fred Segal, Louis Boston, Luilei online, Holt Renfrew in Canada, Liberty in the UK, Bioty Bar in France, Sundhaft in Munich and Department Store Quartier 206 in Berlin, Germany, Profumeria Scarazinni in Milan, Italy and with plans to expand in many more countries (take a look for full list of stores)
To try the Ineke Deluxe Sample Pack, click here.

Pics through Ineke.

Mother's Day Specials

Bond No. 9 and Swarovski team up to create Bond No. 9 Swarovski Stars in best-selling Bryant Park, Bleecker Street and Nuits de Noho scents. These three blinged out Bond No. 9 scents sparkle with thousands of Swarovski crystals, so tiny that they shimmer and gleam as one. Bond No. 9 Swarovski Stars Limited-Edition Collectibles will arrive in May, in the Mother’s Day nick-of-time.
The three fragrances will now be available housed in 50ml bottles completely crystallized—like a second skin —with thousands of Swarovski crystals so tiny that together they shimmer and gleam as one. Instead of the classic bottle designs, these Swarovski Stars are covered in one single hue—either pink, green or blue. Somehow, the effect manages to be sleek, fun and a bit tabula rasa all at the same time.

And for moms on the go -from soccer to socialite- Bond No. 9 offers Swarovski Stars Bon Bons, a chic collection of all three scents (plus Eau de New York ) in crystallized 6ml purse-sprays. In a word: Brilliant.

Availability: 50ml for $650 · Swarovksi Stars Bon Bons Collection for $700
At Bond No. 9 boutiques, 877-273-3369, bondno9.com,
saks.com and Saks Fifth Avenue nationwide.

Pic of collectible Swarovski bon bons courtesy of Bond No.9

An Unearthly Beauty?

Among the many press releases that arrive at Perfume Shrine's inbox some make us pause and a few even Google up a name. The latest from Opus Oils had the latter effect: a new fragrance built upon Gretchen Bonaduce. Who the hell is Gretchen Bonaduce (nee Hilmer) was the immediate aporia tormenting our brain. Google to the rescue: it appears she is the ex-wife of "Dante Daniel "Danny" Bonaduce, an American radio/television personality, comedian and former child actor who became known as an adult for his tumultuous personal life" (per Wikipedia).
Up to now, quite interesting if only for the reflected value of someone through their associations. Nevertheless Gretchen went on from there to become a TV personality in her own right, a musician singing with the L.A. based 'Muddflaps' (alongside Chris Doohan) and recently formed a new band called, Ankhesenamun (in case you are wondering, that is the name of King Tut's wife). And of top of that she is the designer of a fashion line, Bonaduce Fashion and is currently working on launching her elegant upscale line, Countess Couture. After years of being admired for her innovative style, Gretchen has finally decided to make her clothing available to fans, it seems.
But the fragrance also poses another angle. It's named "An Unearthly Beauty?" With a questionmark, yes. Unusual, isn't it? They're teasing us into questioning it.
And on top of that the fragrance supposedly recalls Swedish Fish Candy.
Therefore I decided to run the press release, for the sheer fun of it.

Opus Oils, a Perfume Atelier located in the heart of glamorous Hollywood,
CA announced today the creation of a Gretchen Bonaduce Signature Fragrance called "Unearthly Beauty?". The 1oz Eau de Parfum will be OfficiallyLaunched by Gretchen Bonaduce during VH1's 3rd Annual Big Shopping Day event("Old Hollywood Glamour meets Rock 'N Roll for the ultimate shopping experience- all to benefit VH1 Save The Music's work to restore instrumental music education in U.S. public schools."). The VH1 event will take place from 10AM-4PM April 26th, 2008 at the ultra hip BOULEVARD3, located at 6523 Sunset Blvd., Hollywood, CA.

With Gretchen's hit VH1 TV shows("Breaking Bonaduce 1&2") and successful high end clothing line ("Countess Couture") it was only natural for her to delve into the world of fragrance. "I was extremely honored when Gretchen chose us to do her
Signature Fragrance." says Kedra Hart, Master Blender for Opus Oils "I've been a fan of her clothing lines, music, and TV Shows; I think she's an inspiration to all women." Gretchen will be on hand during the Launch to give out samples and mingle with all her fans.

About "Unearthly Beauty?" Eau de Parfum "Fresh and Alluring!" "Sweet and Juicy!" These terms are barely adequate when describing this ultra feminine and stylish scent that starts out with a sparkling blend of crisp Pink Grapefruit and exotic Ruby Red Grapefruit. It's warmed with delicious Red Raspberry and Indian Jasmine, which culminates into a sultry dry down of French Vanilla and Tonka Bean Absolute. "Unearthly Beauty?" is definitely Sweet and Juicy and its voluptuousness is reminiscent of Swedish Fish Candy. A perfect fix for the girl with an insatiable sweet tooth and a sensual soul... It comes in a 1oz/30ml Eau de Parfum spray and
is in an alcohol base (not oil). Check bonaduce.biz/ for prices and availability.

More info on Opus Oils at www.opusoils.com/

Pic courtesy of Opus Oils

With One Eye on Summer

Perfume Shrine presents you a glimpse of the upcoming lists of top fragrances for summer. Never too early to get prepared in the perfume stakes! In the new issue of Allure magazine (page 134) Frédéric Malle recommends some of his fave summer scents:

Cristalle by Chanel
Eau de Fleurs de Cédrat by Guerlain
Armani Eau Pour Homme with notes of lemon, basil, oakmoss
Light Blue by Dolce & Gabanna
Eau Sauvage by Dior
Pleasures by Lauder
Diorella by Dior
Lys Méditerranée by Malle
Cologne Bigarade by Malle
Eau du Ciel by Annick Goutal

The punchline? "The smell of the ocean, lemon paired with greens, and lilies are a few of Malle's favorites for summer." As reflected in his fragrant choices obviously, agreeing or not.
Which ones would you pick?

And because Friday should herald the joys of the weekend, a little diversion with a trully summery song for you, a big hit in Europe: Ville Vallo from HIM and the actress Natalia Avelon from the the "8 Mile High" film.



Next on Perfume Shrine: a niche line gets a detailed presentation, reviews of new scents and other wonderful surprises!

Pic of Greek beach sent to me by mail unaccredited.

Optical Scentsibilities: bottle design

Art apparently not only imitates life, but art itself as well! Here today is photographic evidence of design borrowing concerning perfume bottles.

The most classic example is of course the couturier's dummy by Schiaparelli for her legendary Shocking.

The torso has a seamstress's tape on the neck and a head of flowers. Very 30s.
While Gaultier decided to give it a corset in his take on Jean Paul Gaultier Classique. Very 90s...

Weird shapes and precarious balances also inspire. Hermes did this tipsy bottle that sits on an angle first for Eau de Merveilles and then for Elixir de Merveilles (depicted).

Missoni liked the idea and borrowed the almost on the side, ready to fall but not quite balance on their eponymous scent and later on their Aqua by Missoni.
Youth Dew is a classic by Lauder: their first fragrance. Its shape above (coming from a later design on the original bottle) is echoed though in another perfume bottle.

Madeleine Vionnet, as a couturier, made sure she had a thimble-shaped cap on her fragrance. The rest is quite similar. The sketchy filigree design by Jane Birkin's hand proved successful for the ultra pared-down, functional bottle of Miller Harris L'air de Rien.

Lostmarch opted for a slightly more nostaligic design on theirs, lifting the sparse bottle a bit. Laan-Ael it is. L'artisan Parfumeur designed new caps for all their bottles recently (Why? Completely redundant, they were perfect anyway ~OK, perhaps they needed to inject a shot of masculinity to the image of their unisex fragrances, I am hypothesizing).
Yves Saint Laurent followed with their cap for L'Homme.

Perles de Lalique has one of the most arresting bottles in their extrait de parfum, as you can see.

Until one sees the vintage parfum bottle for Arpege by Lanvin that is.... Sisley came out with a moon-cap for their Soir de Lune. After all lune does mean moon in French.
But apparently Songes, which means dreams, is also tied to moon imagery, according to Annick Goutal. Good night, sleep tight...

Pics from osmoz, amazon, artcover, doctissimo.fr, scentedsalamander blog (for soir de lune), parfumflacons, flickr, official Miller Harris and Schiaparelli sites.