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Monday, March 18, 2013

Tauer Perfumes Noontide Petals: fragrance review & draw for (unreleased yet) samples

From the noontide sun depart
Here belov'd awhile repose
And the murmurings of my heart
Let me tenderly disclose,
to my forest rose.[1]

Alles ist Licht (Everything is light)



Writing the first review on Noontide Petals, the as yet unreleased newest Tauer perfume, means I get to -in a way- shape how the fragrance might be examined by those who will experience it next. So if I were to give a direct image it would be light, blinding light scattered through a vitrail pane with geometrical designs, imbuing everything in its path, softening the delineations of objects, creating a haze of happy numbness. It was Luca who had long ago envisioned an apparition of light in regards to a Bernand Chant composition: seraphic angels singing a concert of clean notes with bits of an organic chemistry treatise and a woman dressed in white, with an impeccable silvery blow-dry, descending from the skies smiling, like an Atlantis TV-hostess. Different though the scent in question may be, the impression is nonetheless simpatico to the one that Noontide Petals created in me upon smelling it. This hugely aldehydic floral fragrance is simultaneously clean, very floral and sweetish in the White Linen, Estee by Lauder (a Bernand Chant composition, by the way) and Chanel No.22 mold, with that impeccably "coifed" feel of retro aldehydics, of which Tauer's Miriam fragrance was one great paradigm. In fact the turn that Noontide Petals takes for a while after the initial spray is referencing a segment off Miriam, with an even more retro, more sparkling soapy manner than the rather more soft-spoken Miriam.

Geranium and ylang ylang are commonly used as modifiers to leverage the intensity of the fatty aldehydes in classic fragrances. The trick works; a ton of aldehydes is almost too much to stomach without it, such is their engine combustion for flight that you feel like you're straddling the side wing of a Boeing 747. This sheen opens up the flowers, giving them the propensity to unfurl unto the ether. A giant rose is immediately perceived in Noontide Petals, much like in White Linen or No.22, soapy and warm, bright yellow [2] and strikingly spring-like under the winter sun. The citrusy touch on top serves as balance to the sweet floralcy of white petals (natural jasmine and tuberose), cradled into a soft, perfume, posh base with a warm, very lightly smoky effect that recalls things like Chanel, Van Cleef & Arpels and other insignia of class and refinement of another era. Simply put, Noontide Petals makes me want to press my jeans, break out the Hermès scarfs and the long, 20s sautoirs of shiny pearls and go out for a morning sip of champagne for breakfast and laugh and laugh with spirited company.

copyright Andy Tauer for Tauer Perfumes

In short, if you're a lover of aldehydes in perfumes and have been longing for a good, potent, gorgeous dosage to hit you over the head in infinite style, look no further than Noontide Petals. If you have a problem with aldehydic florals you should also try it for the heck of it: it's definitely an impressive fragrance, very well crafted. For those of you who have identified a "Tauerade" base common in most of Andy's work, I can see no sign of it here, as I couldn't see it in Miriam either. In that way these are fragrant releases apart. But none the less beautiful for it!

For our readers, 3 samples of the unreleased fragrance by Tauer: Enter a comment, saying what you would most like or dislike about aldehydes, and I will draw three winners. Draw is open internationally till Tuesday 19th midnight. Winner will be announced on Wednesday.

[1]Rexford, George C., compiler and arranger; Lover, S.; Woodburry, I. B.; Thomas, J. R.; Wurzel, G. F.; Lavenu. Beadle's Dime School Melodist: A Choice Selection of Familiar and Beautiful Songs, Duets, Trios, Etc. Arranged in a Simple Manner for School Singing, with Elementary Instructions Suited to Children of the Most Tender Age . New York: Irwin P. Beadle and Co., 1860. [format: book], [genre: song]. Permission: Newberry Library Persistent link to this document: http://lincoln.lib.niu.edu/file.php?file=beadle.html
[2]It could be Pantone 7404


84 comments:

  1. Anonymous15:39

    I love the "sparkle" - especially in the summer, I agree with the pressed jeans/Hermes scarf/pearls! (and I am totally not that person normally!)
    Thanks for the draw, I've been looking forward to hearing more about and trying Noontide Petals!
    ltrittipoe(at)yahoo(dot)com

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  2. I find them to be very tricky and heady to my nose, though I hope to be proven wrong by Tauer!

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  3. I love how "bubbly" aldehydes are and looking forward to Andy's rendition =)

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  4. A blend with aldehyde C12 lauric and aldehyde myrac is beautiful, like an oxygenated citrus... Looking forward to smell that Tauer's new piece, anyway...

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  5. I like aldehydes. I do like my perfumes to smell a bit retro and perfumey. The sparkly quality that aldehydes provide is not always something I want to smell on my skin but if the perfume has some creamy, milky, almost floral sandalwood, I am in heaven.

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  6. White Linen is one of the greats, I would love to try this take on an aldehydic scent.

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  7. Stephan17:12

    My perception of aldehydes in fragrance is like putting a sleek, shiny frame around a painting and hanging it slightly above the height of the admirer's eyes. And the beauty will be sort of floating beyond reach. Does that make sense?

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  8. Sassa17:17

    Ooooh, please, please let me enter this give away, in one paragraph you mentioned two of my all time favorites, Chanel 22 and White Linen.
    Although I read Andy's blog and respect his work, I've not found one that I can wear day-to-day (I've not tried Miriam yet). So I would LOVE to be able to try this.

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  9. I don't what it is I like or dislike about aldehydes as I've never quite put my finger on what it is, exactly, or what it smells like. I think I have a vague idea but I am never quite certain. I find some chypres I like to wear have a crispness to them like carbonated water that makes them refreshing and I have always assumed this was from aldehydes. I suppose that's it, then: on warm days I love the way it refreshes me, lifts me up; but on cooler days I need something cozier. So, aldehydes can invigorate me but at the same time limit my enjoyment. Thanks for the opportunity for the draw, I'm always excited to try new Tauer fragrances.

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  10. parfait17:33

    I love the sparkling quality of aldehydes in perfumes, the vvivaceous green illusion that they produce to my nose! Thx for the great draw!

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  11. Heather F17:36

    I hated aldehydes up until about a month ago, when the idea of spring and a few perfumes tested at the right time combined to show me how wonderful they could be. I'm all for the sparkle now, for sure. I'd love a sample of the new Tauer fragrance--I love so many of his. Thanks for the draw!!

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  12. I say, there are so many reasons to like aldehydes.

    Not least because of their champagne-like sparkle, or because they remind me of very important women in my past.

    But on this occasion, I must go with the wonderful description of them as being 'impeccably coifed'.

    For that is it, there is something about the studied and studiously observed glamour of an great aldehyde I find enlessly alluring.

    Yours ever
    The Perfumed Dandy

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  13. I love the clean sophistication of aldehydes. Cannot wait to smell this one.

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  14. MariaA18:31

    I love aldehydes they give me the feeling you have when you look at the sun for too long, dizzy but happy!!!

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  15. What I love most about aldehydes now is what I hated most about aldehydes the first time I experienced them in a fragrance. The nose-tingling soapy smell. My first experience was with La Myrrhe...at first I hated it and now I have my own Bell Jar. Looking forward to Noontide Petals!

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  16. I actually love aldehydes. It brings a sense of grandeur to me. Many of my favorite fragrances both new and vintage feature aldehydes !

    Thanks as always for the draw :-}

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  17. Nancy C.19:32

    I love everything about aldehydes. The sparkle, the brightness and lift. Miriam is an excellent fragrance and I'm looking forward to Noontide Petals as well.

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  18. Anonymous20:31

    Aldeydes can give a sexy vibe or/and a sofisticated aura in a fragrance. Sparkling indeed but be cautious with the dosage or will give you a headache
    I am looking forward to the new Andy Tauer fragrances
    Thank you for the draw
    Phanie

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  19. Aldehydes are something that I appreciate in small doses and this has stopped me liking Chanels for quite some time, however it is a fantastic journey and I would love to keep exploring them

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  20. Anonymous20:46

    i adore aldehydes and don't quite get why some people don't like them. some of the finest scents in the world have aldehydes!

    i had the chance to smell some of them in the raw - in a perfumeer's lab - and it was glorious to see how they are on their own. they are fizzy, fatty, golden, bright, and each quite different from the other.

    so... this scent sounds wonderful, and right up my alley! thanks for the giveaway!

    cheers,
    minette

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  21. Kristen21:02

    What I don't like about aldehydes is that I haven't yet figured out what they smell like! I love No 22, Miriam, and other aldehyde- heavy perfumes, but I still can't discern the note.

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  22. Cynthia21:59

    I love aldehydes effervescence and sparkle. When I spray such a perfume it communicates "grown up and festive" to me.

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  23. I love the chilly flash of fire. Brilliant review of an amazing perfumer.

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  24. Aldehydes make me yearn for spring. And more snow is expected here tomorrow. Enough!

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  25. Jackie b23:29

    I would love to try this, I bought Miriam unsniffed (I know, I know) and love its old fashioned richness. I find the aldehydes totally addictive, as in No 5.

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  26. Merlin23:35

    I'm not sure I quite know what aldehydes are, especially since there are a variety of them - it only being the most famous that is used in No.5. I like the idea of them giving 'lift' to a fragrance. I also like the sparkly sensation I get from perfumes said to be heavy in aldehydes. That being said, I really dislike too much emphasis on that bitter carbonated aspect - like in Yvresse...

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  27. Miss Heliotrope23:50

    I would be wary of anything that makes me want to start ironing...

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  28. ElizabethC23:59

    I love the shining, icy feeling that aldehydes can bring to a scent. Would be very interested in trying Andy Tauer's take on this.

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  29. Rednails00:17

    I love aldehydes for the sparkle and warmth they impart to certain fragrances, like Arpege, and the sparkle and chill that they impart to others, like Rive Gauche. A bright, malleable ingredient.

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  30. Anonymous01:08

    For me aldehydes are about lift and light -- from memories of my Mom's Chanel No5 to my wearing of White Linen in the 80s and the current yet retro loveliness of the gentle, beautiful Miriam.

    I'd love to sample Noontide Petals. Am also liking Andy's Deco art work for it.

    Thanks for the interesting review and the draw opportunity.

    -- Lindaloo

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  31. Fernando01:31

    I have to admit I'm not 100% sure what these aldehides smell like... But my wife does like White Linen, so maybe Andy's version will work for her as well.

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  32. Irina01:43

    I love aldehydes for their light, sometimes "frozen" - if it is can be said about them - smell. Fragranses I love most of all in this way- Chanel no5 and La Myrrhe Serge Lutens.
    Thanks for the draw)) It's a great opportunity to try Tauer's fragrance.

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  33. I like them because to me at least they produce less synthetic smelling fragrances. They seem to make fragrances smell like aromas that naturally exist and therefore it's easier for them to blend in with the someone's skin. They seem light. I'm really a big fan of them.

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  34. I don't have any particular feeling towards aldehydes (whether like or dislike), but I loved what Tauer did with Miriam. So I'm looking forward to this one. And if the Tauerade is subdued, even better.

    cacio

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  35. Matildaben05:12

    I love No 22, Baghari, and Miriam. I just love the old-fashioned elegant feeling that aldehydes bring.

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  36. Anonymous05:48

    My attitude towards aldehydes is most positive, but I also would really like to know them more thoroughly. I do recognize them in a perfume instantly, but could not specify different types. Noontide Petals sounds very exciting!

    So thanks for the nice draw!

    Maria

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  37. They smell - and this is not the conventional way of describing it - 'rough' to my nose. Or rather, it's not that they are on the spectrum of colour, but of saturation. They throw other things into relief rather than having as much of a distinct odour profile of their own. (I know that this isn't true - it is just the impression that they create to me.)

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  40. For me aldehydes are more a feeling than a specific smell. When I feel a soapy feeling in a perfume I know there's aldehydes in there, no matter if it's floral or...balmy. My favourite aldehyde parfum (with no doubt) is LA Myrrhe of Serge Lutens, it's a masterpiece even the first time ,I was schocked, not knowing if I like it or not. But it was just the first time, now I love it more and more, and it is my winner of the aldehydes and...it's not floral!

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  41. I love aldehydes, bubbly, fizzy, uplifting in the depths of a cold, snowy winter (& spring, here!!)

    I also love Andy's fragrances so the draw is a win win situation for me.

    cheers Elz

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  42. I like aldehydes because they're exuberant and not shy. They say: I’m proud and confident (and I also smell great :-))

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  43. For the longest time I thought I didn't like aldehydes but it seems there is a difference between them and lately I found some perfumes where I don't mind them, quite the contrary (probably because they don't get up my sinuses and stay there). :)

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  44. After a talk with a food chemist I had learned that aldehydes are responsible for the most enticing aspect of a freshly cut fruit. They are the first, very diffusive molecules that your nose perceive the moment the knife pierces the skin of an apple and even in trace amounts they can fill a space. That feeling is what I am looking after in an aldehydic perfumes, alas haven't found it yet.

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  45. Zazie09:21

    The thing I like the most about aldehydic fragrances is how they simultaneously feel clean, put together and plush (n°5 extrait and bois des iles are my epitome aldehydic perfumes).
    Surprisingly, I do not only find them suited for work and formal occasions, but the aforementioned chanel are among my favorite bed time fragrances: they prolonge the "clean" feeling after the shower and yet have the ability to feel cuddly, friendly and soothing...
    Thanks for the draw!

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  46. I'm with Kristen, I love Miriam and I love Chanel No 5 etc but I can't really understand or smell the aldehydes, If it gives a perfume lift I'm sure that accounts for the cloud like quality I get when I wear these scents and that I like !

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  47. Anonymous10:12

    I love how they are so sparkly and comforting--and fresh. They make me smile! Hope to try Andy's latest. JenM

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  48. hatice10:30

    Hiii, I'm in this to win the draw:):). Dior Dune and Chanel No. 5 are lovely perfumes containing aldehydes, meaning I am ready to be introduced to another aldehyde based perfume. Thanks...

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  49. VeniH10:50

    Aldehydes are such a variable group of smells that one cannot simply say "I love aldehydes" or "I dislike them". Mostly it´s a "bouquet" of aldehydes C 10, C 11 and C 12 that comes to mind, surely due to the famous Chanel No. 5. But there is much more than just the smell of a luxurious soap. Many other aldehydes can imitate fruits or "green" smell, as I have read. So I am always clueless when a general opinion on aldehydes is asked :-(

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  50. Aldehydes were in the perfumes of my mother and grandmother, and those perfumes were my entree into the world of fine fragrances. The epitome, for me, is Je Reviens by Worth. I'm referring to the vintage from the 1960's when my childish nose first apprehended this perfume. Even today, my tastes run toward this type of fragrance. It's the sparkle contained in a bottle, a little like magic. I would love to win Tauer's latest!

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  51. Anonymous11:44

    I can't put my finger on what I like or dislike about aldehydes. It depends on the fragrance. I know I have loved all the Tauer fragrances that I have tried and would love to try this one. Karin savvythinker.com

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  52. Scottie12:20

    I love the lilt and lightness which aldehydes can provide. And, unlike many (it seems), I like a somewhat "retro" scent. It reminds me that perfume too is an evolutionary art form, bound by historical parameters.
    Thank you for the draw- Noontide Petals sounds amazing!

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  53. Anonymous12:49

    I thought White Linen was a Sophia Grojsman composition.

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  54. As a lover of Chanel No. 22, and a fan of Tauer's fragrances (my favorite being Carillion pour un Ange), I MUST TRY NOONTIDE PETALS! It sounds like a dream come true. :)
    My favorite thing about aldehydes is that soapy, retro smell. Just having No. 22 sitting on my dresser makes my bedroom smell the way I remember my grandmother's vanity smelling.
    Thank you for the draw.

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  55. Anonymous13:56

    I love the vintage feeling.
    I have a bottle of YSL Rive Gauche (pre reformulation) and it's stunning.

    quimerula(at)hotmail(dot)com

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  56. Anon @14:49,

    it is clearly mentioned that the B.Chant composition is the Estee by Lauder, a different Lauder than White Linen.

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  57. Ursula14:10

    Aldehydes make a perfume bright, I don't mind wearing perfumes with them in display, such as Miriam. Am very curious about Noontide Petals, another master piece ? Thanks for the draw.

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  58. The fact is that I do not have any typical fragrance with aldehydes (excluding Mitsouko) - probably I am not courageous enough to smell sharper notes. But I remember my first trying of White Linen - I was attracted by its smell and sniffing it repeatedly - but never bought it for myself. Thanks for this chance to try Tauer s samples.
    lubaska dot k at gmail dot com

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  59. I love the sparkle and retro nature of aldehydes.

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  60. Aldehydes smell a little old-fashioned to me, but not at all in a bad way. They make me think of summer and sunshine! Thanks for the draw!

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  61. Ellen17:04

    I don't know if I like them or not, but I like White Linen, and I LOVE Andy Tauer. I don't think about fragrance as being "retro" or not; I just try to appreciate them for what they are and if I like them. I'm so glad for the opportunity of this draw. Thanks you.

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  62. I love metal sound in aldehydes, but not like when they are in tandem with the obvious rose

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  63. I have a love-hate relationship with aldehydes. They can have amazing effects (I especially love how they work in White Linen) but sometimes make perfumes too sweet for me. I'm always interested to see what AT is doing though.

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  64. I love the airy, silvery, shiny aldehydes and I don't like the "waxy" ones. :-)



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  65. Oh I do love aldehydes. They fizz, they pop, they warm and comfort. Thank you for this exciting opportunity!!

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  66. I love the Chanel perfumes, which I have been told are "aldehyde heavy" so I'm guessing I like aldehydic perfumes! I would love to try the newest Tauer, as I love love love his fragrances.

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  67. I'm a fan of the bubbling fizz of aldehydes. I'd be fascinated to know how Andy used them.

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  68. I love the aldehydes in Chanel's no 22 and no 5 but I haven't tried many others properly. I would be so excited if I won the Tauer samples!

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  69. I'm a lover of aldehydes. It will be interesting to try Tauer's interpretation!

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  70. Ariadne22:50

    I am a long time "aldie" addict. When I wear a strong aldie frag I feel like I am carrying a silk embroidered whip. Oohh La La! My No 22 is staple and I would love to try the Tauer creations and bop some craniums!

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  71. Anonymous22:50

    Lreally feel the aldehydes jazz up any floral presentations and of course sky lift my very still go to classic Chanel #5. I am now wearing Chanel #19 and compparing my interpretation of the similarities/differences of the tw. Thank you! PLW..(patricialeewilks@yahoo.com)

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  72. I have been embracing my bob haircut with 1920s lingo, long strands of pearls, and Prohibition era drinks. An aldehyde heavy perfume would just be the sardine's whiskers!

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  73. I fall into the category of people
    who avoid aldehydes---but an Andy
    Tauer aldehyde cannot be typical!
    How does his rose note here compare with his Incense Rose---I am curious!

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  74. Aldehydes smell old fashioned to me, but I love that! They are cool, refreshing, and bubbly, like many people have already said before me. White Linen is one of my favorites and I would love to smell this new one by Tauer. Thanks!

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  75. Holly F.00:40

    I like how aldehydes can give a fragrance a champagne-like quality, they actually seem to sparkle like that! I would love to try this one, as I am a fan of aldehydes. Thanks!

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  76. What I like most about aldehydes is the way they open up a floral fragrance and lend an aura of glamour. What I dislike is the dirty scalp smell that the raw chemicals evoke.

    I would love to be entered in the draw. Thank you!

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  77. I used to wear White Linen all the time, and haven't come back to those aldehydic frags in some time. I am a fan of LAdDM and would love to try a different Tauer frag. Thanks!

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  78. Jules05:00

    This perfume sounds absolutely beautiful! Although aldehydes can be hit-or-miss for me, when done right they have a beautifully uplifting quality that is evocative of light, instead of being overly heavy.

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  79. [sent to me by email in time]

    To soar on the wings of an aldehydic perfume, like a sleek bird; to be one with the light; to turn into a diamond and sparkle all evening or shimmer at daybreak drinking dew with the other forest fairies - some of the wonderful sensations of aldehydic perfumes. I would love to do some of this with Noontide Petals, so please enter me in the draw. Thank you for the beautiful review......Starscent

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  80. Julie Ellen13:01

    Love the spark and sparkle of aldehydes. I always feel energized and lighter when I wear this type of scent. Love Andy as well and can't wait to try this new perfume. thanks for the draw.

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  81. Thanks for the draw!
    I wear scents with aldehydes when I want to feel confident,focused and clear-headed.
    When you put just the right amount on this is what they do for me.

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  82. I'm still trying aldehydes, but I can't handle ones that get too "soapy" on my skin. I LOVE the idea of geranium tempering the aldehydes as that is one of my favorite notes! Thank you for the draw!

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  83. Hi, I'm not sure I if I like aldehydes or not as I'm new to this perfume game. But my, I'm getting pulled in fast! In any case leave me out of this draw. I'm just writing to say how much I adore your writing and how it has almost single-handedly opened up a new world to me. If I was in the draw that would have been an incredibly sucky statement. Lucky!

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  84. Thank you so much Gorgonzola! (I love the actual cheese by the way)

    It's always encouraging to hear people enjoy the stuff here and find it useful in some way. Thanks again for commenting and lots of other draws and giveaways, so who knows? You might want to participate in another one some time.

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