Omonde Jayne Vanille Aube fragrance review

 

Vanilla Aube by Ormonde Jayne is lovely: All the colors of the sun melding into each other, producing something soft and caressing like a feathery cloud. An atypical vanilla, non-sweet, non-foodie, though gourmand in structure, it emphasizes the woody, lightly spicy (cardamom, pepper) and musky-soft elements to project as a fluffy cashmere shawl on naked shoulders. 

borrowed via

Vanilla Aube is the smoothest, most caressing non-sweet vanilla I have worn lately. With a progression from initially lightly spiced, tinkered woody-musky fluff into a suede-like softness that embraces you like a cloud when standing atop a hill, this is an atypical vanilla that is very refined and sophisticated, following in the footsteps of excellence that the Ormonde Jayne brand has paved. 

 The thing is that Vanilla Aube is the smoothest, most caressing non-sweet vanilla I have worn lately. With a progression from initially lightly spiced, tinkered woody-musky fluff into a suede-like softness that embraces you like a cloud when standing atop a hill, this is an atypical vanilla that is very refined and sophisticated, following in the footsteps of excellence that the Ormonde Jayne brand has paved. Upon wearing it, spraying on skin, on fabric and studying its tenacity (wow, soft but there for days) it reminds me of the seminal work of Bvlgari Black by Annick Menardo (now discontinued) as well as Cuir Béluga by Guerlain. Those fragrances extrapolated coming trends with the finesse of their creators; steps clothed in silk slippers, walking under an atrium at dawn someplace warm. The success of Babycat by YSL was pre-emptied by the sleeping success of those two scents. Sleeping as in commercial terms, but not artistic. And yet Vanilla Aube goes even beyond, making it totally in sync with today's sensibilities, without resorting to the yawp of contemporary amberwood-centric fragrances, especially those directed at men. It remains resolutely unisex with a plush suede feeling of autumnal caress, the cool factor of a luxurious jacket in buttery softness, the sensuality of a wrap on bare shoulders.

 Ormonde Jayne released their new vanilla fragrance into its Four Corners Reimagined Collection on September 8, 2026 . This fragrance was previously launched in September 2025 and has since been renamed Vanille Aube. The formula and notes are unchanged, however, from the previous Vanille Mistral and it is still the same gourmand-spicy vanilla fragrance created by perfumer Elodie Bernard with collaboration by Ormonde Jayne founder, Linda Pilkington.

Nostalgia is the kitschiest sentiment. Or is it?

Young and older people alike love to reminiscence about things they loved in the turmoil of puberty or their formative years, from La Vie Est Belle by Lancôme to Tobacco Vanille Tom Ford via Coco Mademoiselle Chanel or Jungle Gardenia and White Shoulders; I suppose it gives us a sense of nostalgia, the strange excitement of reliving a period of our lives when we were not so sure of certain things, innocent enough that we had faith, before life bore its heavy blows crushing our dreams.

via

 Whether it was something cheap, brash or immature (Victoria's Secret body sprays perhaps?) does not matter; the memory is there and the hold it has over our hearts reads like the delicious thrill we feel at the borderline segregating damnation from redemption. 

 And because it is such a thin razor's edge, we continue our lives with a precarious, perverse pleasure derived from seeking for the elements we loved in every subsequent scent to be met, almost like a golden standard against which we judge everything that follows; the Mr.Darcy against which everyone else pales, the Heathcliff whose darkness embodies our secret yearnings, yearnings we have buried and mourned only on the surface. 

 Yes, all too frequently the first fragrances we have loved remain our loves throughout our lives, unless perfume Nemesis -in the guise of allergens restrictions or business behemoths pennies-pinching- shutters the gilded foil and makes them unrecognizable. But what about fragrances we like from the get-go which are new and fresh and so novel? Fragrances which grab us by the lapels and with golden retriever puppy eyes beg us to love them back? Sometimes they succeed and we love them instantly. Which are they? Mine has always been Opium YSL, the pillar of memory, the apex of heart-twinging. And then others too, my mom's Dioressence and Cabochard, her Bourjois Soir de Paris. The introduction of niche via Serge Lutens and L' Artisan Parfumeur. And the snowball that followed. 

 The L'Artisan was among my first incense purchases and it still remains a firm favorite for summer-wear (not that it does not shine in winter equally well). Passage d'Enfer L'Artisan Parfumeur gives me the eerie feeling of a trance-like session, lost in the spiritual reveries of a body ritualistically sprayed with all the lilies of the field. It balances on the edge of sanity sometimes, clean (thanks to the white musk) but mysterious at once, ethereal yet subtly odd, like an emo-goth type dressed in head-to-toe white. Fleurs d'Oranger Serge Lutens is not too old, not too young, just perfect in that middle ground between contemporary and traditional, a potent yet fresh (!) mix of lush orange blossom and insinuating tuberose, likened to a heaving bosom. A true compliment getter too! I was stung by a bee, outside a graveyard, wearing this scent, one fateful Easter, and forever since I subconsciously seek to touch the sting spot whenever I wear it.... 

There are so many, really. Please share yours in the comments.

New Fragrant Desires

 Immersed as I've been in one capacity or another (student, teacher) in the academic division of the year, putting September 1st as the signpost of an annual rebirth, and rebaptizing myself into the holy waters of knowledge, so to speak, autumn is my favorite time of the year. Not only is the feeling of organizing new schedules, new modes of the everyday, new stimuli to engage my mental capabilities, but it's also the perfect backdrop for fragrance testing and wearing. After the torpor of the heatwave in the city, the long swims of vacation when fragrance is not really necessary, and the languor of serene and lazy-smelling fragrances of holidays, this period is rejuvenating olfactorily. I therefore set out with a renewed interest in the afición! 

Fragrances old and new which caught my eye lately

Korres Vetiver Root

Recently I retried this on my skin and on the sleeves of my light windbreaker. Two days later I was still smelling it going strong, in that nevertheless mannered way of solid persistence that never overextends its welcome. Impressive. Previously circulating as Vetiver root, Green tea, Cedarwood -don't you just love it when they put the notes on the bottle- it combines the lavender/amber chord we so associate with good ol' masculine cleanliness and grooming. A combination I find irresistible myself. And one which I also want to borrow. A bottle of this vetiver fragrance is going on my To Buy list. 

Dana Tabu

No treatise or fragrance review is necessary for this bold vintage Tabu by Dana scent. The patchouli-carnation chord is reverberating in my mind. Its warmth and come hither is calling me for winter ahead. I had this and I want it back again. I definitely want to find the older version in the violin bottle, however, preferably a smaller size in order to savor. 

Milano Fragranze Basilica

For a genre so populated with specimens of varying intensity and adherence to try frankincense oil, which is very different from the impression of incense as a general notion, Basilica is a fragrance that manages to mingle the essence of the oil with the ambience of the liturgical place where said oil is meant to be used. In short, the temple congregation, a human made atmosphere, which however seems to transport you above. The note of snuffed out candles is lovely. The inspiration behind the fragrance is the Basilica di Sant' Ambrogio in Milan, a roman architecture marvel.  

Shanghai Tang Golden Lily

I've got this on my list for some years now and it's never crossed my path since its first sampling. I wonder why I haven't searched for it more energetically as I truly appreciate its floral spicy message so well. Brand scarcity and its retro ambience make it a rarity in fragrance communities, which narrows down its swapping and reselling potential, I guess. It's a clarity and balance feat, a beauty. We need these in late autumn, don't we. 

pic borrowed from fashion for lunch

At the Moment: October 2026

 

photo borrowed via pinterest

It seems like it's been ages since I last compiled an AT THE MOMENT post. Indeed it has. Wow how time flies. Without further ado my current list of things occupying my everyday these past few days and weeks. Share your current obsessions, hobbies and tricks in the comments section below the post. 

[This post contains a few select Amazon affiliate links. If you purchase something through these links I might make a tiny commission to upkeep this blog.]

READING

I started Labyrinth, The Art of Decision Making by Pawel Motyl, a modern classic which takes a seemingly self-help title and addresses historical moments when the decision making made or ruined major sociopolitical events. Motyl digs into the series of decisions that led to some of the modern world’s most dramatic events: from the Cuban missile crisis to the 1996 Mount Everest climbing disaster; from the Apollo 13 rescue mission to the ill-fated Daimler–Chrysler merger. Along the way, he reveals 16 rules for effective decision-making that will challenge pre-existing beliefs, and change one's outlook forever.

 

It is a fascinating read, and I admit I picked it up knowing I am inept at decision making, so it is essentially eye-opening to see history in the making AND grasp how too much hesitation is just as bad a decision as any.  which you can find HERE for Kindle and tablets. 

WEARING

It's been rather hot in Athens these past few weeks, nothing really bad, but not quite autumnal either, minus the occasional rain. Therefore I have again resorted to my very light windbreaker jackets for rain deterance mostly; generally more flimsy than a trench coat, easier to carry in arm if bothersome. This style by SaphiRose is especially becoming, and the light color gives a visual jolt, instead of the dreary greiges. It also doesn't contain harmful chemicals, as per the requirements of the maker. 

borrowed via 

PLAYING WITH

I have long held the view that makeup is playthings for grown girls and I'm sure lots of women the world over agree with me. The influx of happily faced women painting their faces a million ways possible and having fun starting anew every day on a gazillion of channels and reels proves that I'm right. And of course that's nothing new I'm saying. Therefore, recognizing that in difficult time we play with war paint -see what I did there- I'm currently enthused with the KIKO MILANO long-lasting eyeshadow sticks. Back when I was way younger I used to snub eyeshadow sticks and shadows-built-into-pencils; maybe because I have witnessed many middle-aged women using them. Who knows. Now that I'm a middle-aged women myself I found a newly minted appreciation for them. These are beautiful, softly shimmery when you need it and provided your eyelids are not crepey -thankfully mine are not- and in tenacious shades of a 24-hour duration. Not that you'd keep them on your eyes that long, but you know what I mean. I especially like Slate Grey which makes a contrast with my cool-shaded brown eyes. The next shade to try is Golden Taupe 38 which, judging by the Pinterest photos, looks really a-ma-zing...

RESEARCHING

Deep into the archives of antiquity the plethora of information on perfuming and scenting objects are fascinating to follow. Hopefully this will become the subject of an article with practical purposes. More to come and my lips are sealed. 

In the interim I'm writing a dedicated article for Fragrantica on Colombian perfumery. Not the historical period as in pre-Colombian, but of the country. Exciting things to come. 

Santa Maria Novella Alba di Seoul- fragrance review

 

Smoky is a loaded concept, because so often it falls into one of either styles: the incense-y smoke that recalls woody and resinous scents of piety and zen like Avignon, or the dense feel of the campfire like Lonestar Memories or the fragrances by Beaufort. These both lend themselves to autumn, of course, but we aim to provide a middle-ground between seasons, for which Alba di Seoul feels exceptionally well-matched. 

via

 There is something undeniably familiar to me in Alba di Seoul and I managed to track it in the vintage version of Tsar by Van Cleef & Arpels, a wonderful fragrance in the old-school-mold of masculines, with a mossy background. I remember the days I adored it on my beloved and recall the days I borrowed it in the desire to extend those memories. In Alba di Seoul the citrusy, botanical and mossy elements manage to project light, bright and unfazed by the warmth, still lending a soupçon of darkness for the days to come, just like in Tsar, though they do not smell identical by any stretch of the imagination (if only...). It is the melding of light spice (nutmeg) with the tightly woven elements of wood, leathery tones, green violet leaves with their acrid, sharp and jolting feel, and plush patchouli with just a warm tinge of musk which bring on the ambience which I love. Despite the word Alba meaning dawn in Italian, the feel in Alba in Seoul is that of a cloudy afternoon when the sun is there but hidden behind the trees and you savour the warmth on the skin but also feel a light chill to come. 

It's a complex feeling of tactile sensations which I personally enjoy very much any time of the year, but especially in the first days of autumn when I'm feeling particularly energized. Criminally unsung, delightfully unique if you like things no one else has discovered...yet.

Etat Libre d' Orange Soul of My Soul-fragrance review

 Soul of My Soul by Etat Libre d' Orange was originally a Selfridges exclusive coming out in 2020, but I smelled it a couple of years later, after the quarantine of the pandemic, which limited my traveling severely.

It was a sampling in passing; it seemed nice enough, but in that lackluster quality that "nice things" often display. Damned with faint praise, in short. The fact that it was in "the expensive line" by Etat Libre d' Orange made me crinkle my nose (and my mind too!). Why is it that companies need to introduce a more expensive collection within their existing perfume brand? As if to alienate their older customers through snubbing, and to attract a new kind of customer that is not very knowledgeable about fragrance—the kind of customer who thinks "it's expensive, it must be very good indeed." For anyone seasoned in perfume collecting and appraising, this is surely reason to turn up one's nose and leave empty-handed. And this is exactly what I did. Though in hindsight, it wasn't too expensive. In the span of a mere six years, we have seen exorbitant prices asked.

A few years passed by. This past summer, in a perfume swap with a lovely lady, she sent me a decant of Soul of My Soul, and the fragrance ended up in my lap again. Lap, almost literally, as I tend to sample fragrances not only on wrists but lower on the body, observing how they rise and flow in the air, noting down their development and sillage. It was nice but not perfect. But quite nice indeed. There was an oddly familiar tonality about it. For a couple of days, I struggled to recall what it reminded me of. Hell, that's a difficult situation for any perfume lover, when you almost have it at the tip of one's tongue, but the actual name of the scent eludes you. If you have sampled, worn, and owned too many fragrances, this is a plight you must have found yourself in more than once.

"Soul Of My Soul draws inspiration from the refined butter and milk offered in honor of the gods of Mesopotamia, the god of fire in Persia, and the gods of India. The scent is described as a creamy explosion in which the scent of musk mixes with iris butter and conveys a strong vanilla balm, followed by a combination of tonka and benzoin for a sweet but strong trail."

What can you expect from that? A lactonic fragrance, right? A warm scent, fit for wintertime.

Wrong. 

And then one day it dawned on me: Soul of My Soul had something in common with the discontinued Ginepro di Sardegna. It opened differently, with a bit of lightly smoky, masculine, woody elements, but yes, it dried down after a few minutes into the well-known dry, powdery freshness I had loved in the Acqua di Parma scent.

I scavenged my old blue bottle to compare, with remnants only remaining at the bottom. Yes, I was right. Though it's not actually as powdery as a vat of talc. Most people do tend to wax on about Mediterranean forests, which is odd, because juniper is not exactly the kind of tree one finds in Mediterranean landscapes in abundance; one would sooner find maritime pines, olive trees, fig trees, cypresses, and a vast array of bushes with dry, dusty-smelling branches that read scorched and botanical under the sun. The power of naming and imagery is eternal, I suppose.

Karmacoma by Anomalia Paris- Bittersweet Suede Embracing Vanilla Pods

 Karmacoma by Anomalia Paris: A divorce from everything you used to call “normal” — from habits, permission, and the version of you that learned to behave seems like the perfect motto for entering autumn and the new academic year with flair. Karmacoma is inspired by the aesthetic of a blank canvas, where we boldly script our dazzling and magnificent future. This is also the autumn I'm researching vanilla, it seems, and although I tried this during the warmer months, as the weather cools down, it translates as the perfect cozy fragrance to warm my way into the rainy season. 

The delightful element is its leathery top note, composed by Sidonie Lancesseur as a bittersweet element to enhance the saffron note. A Greek saffron note, no less, among the top quality ingredients in the world, small production extracted by hand. The powdery effect of vanilla and musk is further enhanced by a peppery, spicy garland that ebbs and flows. Its effect on the wearer is what the French call "troublant," which means "intriguing" in the best possible sense. Who could have thought a vanilla would be so nuanced?

On Vanilla; Colombian and Otherwise

 Colombia, Vanilla’s New Production Hub in the World

A speech given during the Barcelona Perfumery Congress last year by Ricardo Ramos, Independent Perfumer of Colombian Origin based in Granada/Spain.

"With an estimation of more than 4300 species of orchids, Colombia is a country with a major diversity of this beautiful botanical species in the world, having more than its 35% native from Colombian territory. The existence of Vanilla in Colombian territory has been ancestrally known among farmers and indigenous communities, being used by a few expert coffee farmers in their coffee plantations, adding it to the coffee beans as an aromatic, sophisticated twist. And among indigenous communities as well, as a tool for seduction, for scenting their clothing, and for making fragrant necklaces (Otapa) and garlands to attract lovers, as mentioned by the Jesuit monks in the 17th Century.

"Some of the very first well-documented vanilla species in Colombia date from The Royal Botanical Expedition to New Granada headed by José Celestino Mutis between 1783 and 1816, and years after that, the British Colonel J.P. Hamilton documented in his “Travels through the interior provinces of Colombia” published in 1827, the existence of abundant fragrant Vanilla species along the
Magdalena and the Cauca River basins. Later, during the nineteenth century, Colombian, North American, and Spaniard botanists recorded the existence of vanilla species in the provinces of Valle, Cauca, Cundinamarca, Tolima, and Huila.
During the XX Century, with the development and commercialization of synthetic Vanilla, the interest in natural Vanilla progressively disappeared, allowing the vanilla plants to be destroyed, becoming a product for very local use in countless communities.
Recently, in the current XXI Century, due to the high demand for vanilla in the world and the difficulty of its production and exploitation, interest in wild vanilla has been reborn in Colombia, with recent studies on the species surviving in the Pacific and Amazonian areas.

"The Universidad Nacional of Colombia (UNAL) started a project in 2015, doing research about the spices in the Pacific area,
starting from the shore coast of the Cauca province up to the coast shores in the Choco province, documenting the existence of nine native vanilla species, including the most commercial in the world: Vanilla Planifolia, initially known exclusively from Mexican territory. The study highlighted the existence of hybrid species with outstanding and rare olfactory profiles, which could be highly valued in the global food and cosmetics industries. In the Colombian Pacific, factors like natural pollination, the abundance of water, and the humid climate encourage its growth, resulting in the first flowers after a year and eight months, which means 2.5 years in total for having fruits. This is a shorter period compared to productions in Mexico, Madagascar, and China, because in those regions they must wait up to three years to have the first blooming and nine more months for the first fruits.

In recent years, in the Cauca Valley region, the Pontificia Universidad Javeriana in Cali and the Universidad Nacional de Colombia, Palmira and Medellín Campuses, have increased the study of the vanilla orchid across biodiversity, agroecology, conservation, and sustainable use. Currently, thanks to the agreement signed with SWISSAID ( Swiss Foundation for Development Cooperation) Colombia, the UNAL Medellín Headquarters began research to study the insects associated with vanilla cultivation in Bahía Solano, where SWISSAID started a project to stimulate vanilla as a local development product that generates income for indigenous and Afro-descendant communities, through training on effective crop management. The project, which began in 2016 with 18 producers in the area, today has more than 200 farmers and has materialized in the community company Aromas y Sabores, which carries out the entire process of purchasing, collecting, curing, and marketing vanilla."

Inkera, the latest creation by Colombian perfumer Ricardo Ramos, is therefore an ode to the relationship between vanilla and the Indigenous and Afro-descendant communities of the Colombian Pacific, as well as a vehicle for introducing Colombian vanilla to the world.

Inkera is the first perfume to feature Colombian vanilla in its formulation, specifically from the Chocó region, home to *Vanilla planifolia* agroforestry crops tended by ancestral Emberá communities and Afro-descendant families.

In addition to vanilla, the fragrance features a *Viche* liquor accord, a traditional artisanal spirit from Colombian Pacific communities made from fermented green sugarcane juice. Historically used as a medicinal tonic for stomach ailments and snakebites, *Viche* lends the fragrance green, jungle-like tones, the sweetness of cane honey, and mineral and subtle marine nuances. Another ingredient making its perfumery debut in Inkera is Pipilongo (*Piper tuberculatum*), an ancestral long pepper also native to the Colombian Pacific; it offers sparkling nuances reminiscent of petitgrain with woody depth, alongside a warm, zesty, spicy heat. 

Fragrances that Smell Like Cosmetics: an Experimental List

The tender, sometimes playful associations of violet and iris-powdery references account for the popularity of several sweet florals in the market, especially when coupled with the intensely feminine note of roses producing an almost "makeup" vanity-table effect. Here is an experimental list of fragrances that reference cosmetics, especially face powder and retro lipstick, in their scent. 

generative AI borrowed via Pinterest

Cosmetics-smelling Fragrances You Might Try (the list is merely a fraction of what is available):

Accordo Viola by L' Erbolario

Viole Nere by Meo Fusciuni

Blanc Violette by Histoires de Parfums

Irresistible Nude Velvet by Givenchy

Putain des Palaces by Histoires de Parfums

Love, Chloé by Chloé or its dupes, since it's been discontinued

Drôle de Rose by L'Artisan Parfumeur (ditto)

Météorites by Guerlain (the original vintage creation, found in secondary market)

Après L'Ondée by Guerlain

Lipstick Rose by Frederic Malle

Iris Eau de Parfum by Molinard

Kenzo Flower by Kenzo

Fleurs d'Ombre Violette – Menthe by Jean-Charles Brosseau

Balenciaga Paris L'Essence by Balenciaga (also in the secondary market as it's been discontinued)

Violet Blonde by Tom Ford (ditto)

Violette Precieuse by Caron

Violette Fumée by Mona di Orio

Citizen Queen by Juliette Has A Gun 

Insolence Eau de Parfum by Guerlain

L'instant Magic Eau de Parfum by Guerlain

True Love by Elizabeth Arden

Cashmere Mist by Donna Karan

Kenzoki Rice Steam Sensual by Kenzo

Sophistique by Mark

Hush Hush from 2160 Tuesdays

The Maternal History Behind Lanvin's Arpege Perfume

Women in the past especially were mentally tied with a sort of femininity that deviated at times from the sensible, non-glamorous, the image of the caretaker. You imagine a highly strung classy woman that hides her woes behind an immaculate veneer; perfectly coiffed & manicured, wearing delightfully constructed, tailored clothes and maybe a string of pearls. Male filmmakers of the 1940s tended to show this powerwoman stereotype having a meltdown at some point in the plot, perhaps a subtle nod to "punishment" for undertaking more than they should. Pamela Robertson explains that Mildred Pierce exposes this contradiction of female success and societal expectations, "because Mildred's success conflicts with the postwar ideology that demands that women give up their careers." Perfume choice becomes a symbol for that.

  The designer Jeanne Lanvin met her future husband, le Conte Emilio di Pietro, at the Longchamp horse races and would have her daughter Marguerite in 1897. The little girl has been immortalized through the design of the iconic black boule bottle of Arpège. Her nickname was Ririte, but she has been referred to as Marie-Blanche ever since 1920, and she was the inspiration for the many fabulous designs her mother mottos which were envied all over Paris and created the fervent desire to emulate for the daughters of many well-to-do ladies of the higher society. The step from daughters to mothers is a small one and Jeanne would become a legendary couturier in no time! Marie-Blanche would also be the inspiration for her mother's most enduring perfume, Arpège, designed for the 30th birthday of Jeanne's beloved daughter and inspired by Marie-Blanche's musical-referencing comment upon smelling the first mod of the composition: "It smells like an arpeggio would."

  The perfume formula was composed by perfumers Paul Vacher and André Fraysse, while the design of the mother dressing the daughter by Paul Iribe pictured on the bottle has become a modern icon. It's an irony that the passionate love the mother had for her daughter Marguerite would end up drawing them apart. An aldehydic whisper of pure flowers, not very far removed from Chanel No.5 eau de toilette, yet more radiant and effervescent than seducing, maybe thanks to mental associations, the Lanvin fragrance is a treaure trove of stories and wonders. 

  Photos of vintage print advertisements found on Ebay and borrowed for educational purposes only.

Art & Olfaction Awards 2026: The Experimental Scent Summit Where I Presented ScentDia

 

The Experimental Scent Summit (ESS) is presented as part of an ongoing collaboration between Los Angeles-based The Institute for Art and Olfaction and Berlin-based Smell Lab. The Experimental Scent Summit (whose speakers and subjects of 2026 were presented in the official page) is an annual gathering designed to build community and learning in creative practices with scent. As a rule, through presentations, academic and research practitioners share experimental work in an open and unrestrained environment that facilitates collaboration and inquiry. It is a non-profit community event that brought together researchers to share experimental and academic work on scent in an informal, open setting at the beautiful venue of Impact HUB Athens,right in the city center of Athens, below the Acropolis. 

ESS 2026 was co-curated this year by Julianne Lee, Minetta Rogers, and Saskia Wilson-Brown for the Institute for Art and Olfaction, and Klara Ravat for Smell Lab, and the presentations ranged from research findings in the fields of olfaction, history, culture, botany, sound science, and other related academic disciplines; performances and conversations that inspire new ways of thinking about and working with scent. 

the presenters for ScentDia social robotics

   SCENT DIA, the Olfactory Turn in Social Robotics, an interdisciplinary project uniting robotics, philosophy and olfactory art, which was introduced by me (Elena Vosnaki), followed by the more in-depth analysis by Professor of Logic and Science of Philosophy Luisa Damiano and Manos Gerakinis of Manos Gerakinis Parfums. Working with Mari Velonaki, who developed the robot as the 3rd in line in her Diamandini Robotic Series at the University of New South Wales in Australia, and collaborating with manufacturing chemical plant Vioryl S.A., they translated the social cues of the first social robot into the emission of discernible scent, emitted at the discretion of artificial intelligence in correspondence to human cues! 

Social robots, as we explained, are robots able to communicate through social cues and in social contexts, through emotional expressions, language, and posture, and now for the first time through scent corresponding to human interaction. Thanks to SCENTDIA's revolutionary technological innovation, the audience was informed about the new concept of the "social robot" as a "social connector," which opens new perspectives in the contexts in which such technology finds application, such as health care, education, and personal support, marketing, and entertainment. All in all, a very stimulating and enjoyable experience. To quote the Institute of Art & Olfaction's motto as my closing line, "Be kind, be cool, be honest, have fun."

Perfume Photography: Our Beloved Bottles

 

The huge website/webzine of which I have the honor to be a senior editor and manager of its Greek edition for many years now invited a group of authors to post their favorite photos they personally took of their own bottles (Well, a small selection of them, at least!) The above our my very own, photographed over the years with real love and passion. 

Details are as follows: 

A summer collection (from left to right) of Diorissimo EDT, Y by YSL, Rem by Reminiscence, Passage d' Enfer by L' Artisan Parfumeur, and Fleurs d' Oranger by Serge Lutens. 

 Guerlain L'Heure Bleue Eau de Toilette (bottom left) the 1980's wonder swathed in deep teal and cool waterscape blue-green. 

 Guerlain's Jicky extrait de parfum (bottom center) rests atop Courtesan by Diane Haeger, following the life and forbidden romance of Diane de Poitiers. 

 Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle (bottom right) embraced by Tradescantia Zebrina sword leaves.

You can view the rest of our team's stunningly beautiful shots on this link.

Mementos of Youth: How Cacharel Shaped an Entire Era

 

For many middle-aged women, Cacharel was a cultural phenomenon; their fragrances were offered as assuredly successful gifts to young women en masse. And they used to be really good too! 

photo borrowed via Fetherstone Vintage blog

 

Cacharel's Eden from 1994 is the precursor to neon-green compositions like Mark Jacobs Decadence and Thierry Mugler's Aura, which were introduced as trailblazing in recent years, but they were not. Considering that the latter, with its green rhubarb-gardenia accord in the eau de parfum, has sparked comments like "very herbal mouthwash," "grassy soil," "muddy swamps," "musty cellars," "bugs and bug poison," etc., it's not unfathomable that Eden has also been rather challenging for modern audiences. Back then, nevertheless, it was "the newest Cacharel" and its youth appeal was palpable. Every teenage girl and budding woman has fond memories of everything Cacharel made. There was no frog in sight, only princes. 

 Some perfumes were shaped to be gifted as an entry into womanhood, on the other hand. Who could imagine a blockbuster perfume being promoted through porcelain-skinned beauties in soft focus, showing no inch of skin, beyond their necks, set to a baroque soundtrack, in this day and age? And yet Anaïs Anaïs, the first perfume by Cacharel (1978), was advertised exactly like that and became THE reference scent for the early 1980s for droves of young women who still reminisce fondly of it 40 years later. I can tell you right off the bat that it was my first proper, owned bottle of perfume, bought as a gift and offered with the requisite ceremony. The actual scent of Anaïs Anaïs defies the notion of erotic elixirs as something that is warm and sensuous, relying on a rare for today's standards combination of prim lily of the valley (and a few other lilies) with the dusting of whisper-soft leather in the drydown.

After the Victorian oppression, at least as far as the public life of ladies was concerned, women now claimed their sexuality. They took off their restrictive corsets, which were a means of sexual "control" by their spouses. And they cut their hair short, in a bob, as a sign of their unconformity and modernity. Let us recall Fitzgerald's 1919 short story, Berenice Bobs Her Hair. They wore Charleston dresses ending at the knee, often with a deep neckline and a low plunge at the back. They made themselves up with dark, thin lips and dark eyes on a pale face, with thin eyebrows like a stroke of calligraphy. In short, they looked like a vampire, a harbinger of the goth trend. Cacharel used this to great aplomb with their Loulou fragrance, following closely the script which Louise Brooks immortalised as Loulou in the Pabst classic film Pandora's Box. It was an oriental scent, but for young women. Heliotrope, musk, and an abstract heart of flowers touched by a whisper of aniseed from another planet, heaved and sighed in it. As the gloriously musical score of the campaign commercial implied, it was a poignant love story, possibly tragic. Gabriel Fauré's Pavane is immortal. And oui, c'est moi (i.e. "yes, that's me") answering a young man questioning after Loulou, became an indelible memory in our collective memories.

Spring Overjoy: My 2026 Scented Picks

There is something to the concept of spring cleaning. It makes for a renewed desire to put order into chaos. It not only pertains to homes but also to academic interests, the books and playlists we enjoy and -you guessed it- our fragrance wardrobes too. This spring I picked a couple of old favourites alongside a couple of newer discoveries. 

borrowed via pinterest

Old Favourites

 The most obvious scent I picked this spring is Lanvin's Oxygène. The olfactory reception I get in Oxygène is quite something, as it recalls and depicts vividly one of my favourite flowers, the wisteria, or glycine in French. It's an early spring flower and, therefore, associated with cool air, dewiness, and a certain hesitant expectation. The heat and the sun have not come in to orgiastically lavish upon it. Its peppery spiciness, inherent also in mauve lilacs, is due to eugenol. A fusion of spicy goodness reveals itself from the core: a middle ground between a peppery twinkle, a clove-y note, and carnations, with a side of a somewhat oily green nuance reminiscent of hyacinth and lilacs. It's first and foremost FRESH. 

borrowed via pinterest

 Rose fragrances that I had put aside when winter came include Paris by YSL and Rosarine by Parfums Dusita. Rosarine is like a breath of fresh air, rose-tinged clouds of sweet dawn - a beautiful and refined rosy fragrance that is so much more than just roses. Sweet and fruity greens mingle. It's cooling yet warm, not just a morning scent, but an evening one too. It consists of two varieties of roses: Bulgarian rose and Rose de Mai from Grasse. Bergamot, jasmine, frankincense, ambrette, iris, and coriander emphasize their aromatic qualities, lending a rich and lasting aura. Paris by Yves Saint Laurent, on the other hand, especially in the EDT version, which is the one I prefer, has a massive violet note that engulfs me into a mauve tinge of silent dusk. 

 Incense scents are another beloved genre that reads well in springtime for me. Santa Maria Novella's Incenso is one such. In Incenso, we have a great fusion of personal introspection and pleasurable outward accountability; the composition reads as both zen for a spiritual mood, but not too ecclesiastical or sombre. Beginning with a dense myrrh and rosy-spice mélange that is not very distant from the chord in Messe de Minuit, it is already ripe and airy, with juniper and patchouli, as well as woody, serene, and earthy, evoking soil and plants growing in a cloistered monastery. It feels buoyant and airy, like a pigeon's feather traveling on the wind, blowing in some secret garden, hiding beneath the walls of the Florentine city. 

 Newer discoveries: 

  

Bijou Zafran by Ormonde Jayne, the 2026 offering by the British niche brand, spice (a golden saffron) that is paired with quite sweet pear, rendering it into fire spun in silk, with suede leather, and unearthly woods. It's a novel fusion of compote gourmand with Middle-Eastern themes of saffron. 

borrowed via pinterest

 Alhambra Bakhoor by Ricardo Ramos is a way of showing how Andalusian Muslim society allowed itself freedoms that were unthinkable for the Muslims of the caliphates of Damascus and Baghdad. . Alhambra Bakhoor isn't a spicy fragrance per se, with wine and spices mingling in order to render an abstract, creamy feeling of contemplation with a sensuous, hedonistic heart. Shockingly, but in a good way, there is a whiff of brand-new-objects made from leather and woods (specifically soft, buttery woods like sandalwood). It is akin to the experience of unboxing something brand new.

  Iris Bianco (L'Erbolario) is a newer iris to the collection and to me is piquant, delicate and at the same time melodious, as if made of wind chimes, a canon that is reprised by angelic voices on a crisp sunny morning. The complex air under a bitter orange tree (with its neroli and citrus effect), full of clarity, and beside it a blooming rose bush, with just a soupçon of spice. It comes off as "clean girl aesthetic", not particularly ground-breaking. The iris in the name is potentially fodder for disappointment for those who seek a powdery cosmetics smelling fragrance.

Springtime Incense: Santa Maria Novella Incenso (short fragrance review)

photo borrowed via pinterest

Incense scents are a beloved genre that reads well in springtime for me. Santa Maria Novella's Incenso is one such. In Incenso, we have a great fusion of personal introspection and pleasurable outward accountability; the composition reads as both zen for a spiritual mood, but not too ecclesiastical or sombre. Beginning with a dense myrrh and rosy-spice mélange that is not very distant from the chord in Messe de Minuit, it is already ripe and airy, with juniper and patchouli, as well as woody, serene, and earthy, evoking soil and plants growing in a cloistered monastery. It feels buoyant and airy, like a pigeon's feather traveling on the wind, blowing in some secret garden, hiding beneath the walls of the Florentine city.

The scent in Santa Maria Novella's Incenso begins with a dense myrrh and rosy-spice mélange which is not very distant from the chord in Messe de Minuit. It is already ripe and airy with juniper and patchouli as well as woody, serene and earthy, evoking soil and plants growing in a cloistered monastery. Both facets are evocative of the traditional uses of incense and protective amulets for the body, the way that perfume worked as a prophylactic tool before the sanitation of Western cities. It then dries down to pure frankincense, yet still spicy, with a hint of cloves and cinnamon alongside the officially noted nagarmotha (cyperus) and cool, earthy vetiver. This furthers the attractive, deep quality of the blend, instead of the chillingly cold facet, reminiscent of the crypt, as presented in the astounding La Liturgie des Heures.

To me it seems that the fragrance has not benefited from much positivity in the perfume sphere because it is a strange, unusual beast; a pleasant incense which is not indicative of haute tastes. But there is no reason to snub one's nose on something that marries centuries-old traditions with contemporaneity. One can enjoy things our milieu enjoys as well. I will take my book and gallivant the caliginous gardens of the Medicis next time I travel, wearing Santa Maria Novella's Incenso. Sounds like a plan.

Incenso by Italian niche brand Santa Maria Novella from Florence was launched in 2024. Top notes are Cardamom and Pink Pepper; middle notes are Frankincense and Cypriol; base note is Vetiver.

PerfumeShrine in the Top Blogs on Feedspot

 

photo via pinterest

Another welcome distinction for PerfumeShrine and my work here. Feedspot alongside its readers chose PerfumeShrine for the top blogs distinction on its populated platform. Hurray! 

At its core, FeedSpot is a content reader that consolidates everything you want to follow into one organized space. Free of charge and practical for its users, the platform includes valuable directions into a plethora of subjects. PerfumeShrine has gained a place of respect in the consciousness of perfume lovers across the world for several long years now, since 2005 in fact, and the fact that it presents genuine and personal human writing and not AI-drivel is another distinction that keeps it afloat in the sea of content across the web. Thank you Feedspot and valuable readers alike!  

Oscars (Academy Awards) 2026 beauty commentary

 

2026 ACADEMY AWARDS were a blast and everyone is talking about them, I suppose, now that the awards, the speeches, the missing speeches and the red carpet gowns have set in in our minds. The looks were very tastefully done this year, I think, and the quiet glamour enhanced the performers' inherent attributes, whether that was sheer talent, sultry warmth, cool elegance or sensuality and come hither. It was all mostly classy; at least what I managed to view in snippets and videos online, since the awards show is beyond my time zone, I'm taking my beauty sleep at the time it's broadcast (sound advice, mind you!). 

 Louis Vuitton has taken an inordinate amount of promoting for their Beauty division lately (and take a look at their pricing policy, if you dare), but the Academy Awards are one of the few occasions when I can see the need for a splurge. If only it concerned me personally that is. Still the beauty break down is interesting and I succumbed. What pretty faces, what lovely colors. So, why not? Let's divulge. 

 Emma Stone, Chase Infiniti, Renate Reinsve, Ava DuVernay and Wunmi Mosaku unveil beauty looks with La Beauté Louis Vuitton and we stand and watch, noting down shades and products for when the fancy (and the affluent pocket book) might strike. On the occasion of the 98th Academy Awards at the Dolby Theatre in Los Angeles, House ambassadors Emma Stone and Chase Infiniti with Friend of the House Renate Reinsve, alongside Ava DuVernay and Wunmi Mosaku revealed beauty looks created with La Beauté Louis Vuitton. 

LV lippie in Passport to Paris

 For the occasion, Emma Stone enhanced her look with LV Ombres 150 Beige Memento, paired with LV Rouge 102 Passport to Paris, a sophisticated Bellini rose with warm undertones. 

 Chase Infiniti opted for LV Ombres 450 Cosmic Dreams, a captivating palette blending plum hues with shimmering violets, complemented by LV Ombres 150 Beige Memento. The look was finished with LV Rouge 101 Kiss the Sky, a lipstick reminiscent of a delicate peony in cool tones. 

the lovely Chase Infinity

 Renate Reinsve wore LV Rouge 602 Vuittamine, a luminous poppy-red lipstick infused with warm notes of orange and yellow, bringing a fresh radiance to the look. 

 Ava DuVernay combined LV Ombres 650 Waking Dawn, a luminous quartet of warm shades, with LV Ombres 950 Sky is the Limit, a bold palette of blues accented with subtle touches of taupe. The look was completed with LV Rouge 104 Beige Machina, a delicate mauve rose with cool undertones. 

Ava de Vernay tastefully dons blue in her eye makeup to enhance her superb gown 

Wunmi Mosaku paired LV Ombres 150 Beige Memento with LV Ombres 951 Force of Nature, alongside LV Baume 030 Tender Bliss. Her lips featured LV Rouge 104 Beige Machina and LV Rouge 112 Rumbling Stone.

There you are. I will come back to beauty products and fragrance shortly. I have surprises for you. 

GranadAroma 2026: indie artisanal perfume exhibition in Granada, Spain

 One of the pleasures of communicating with artisan creators is the warm rapport. Ricardo Ramos, of the Perfumes de Autor brand invited me to Granada in Spain for the upcoming GranadAroma 2026. 

"Right now I'm in the final stretch of GranadAroma, preparing a series of activities for the perfumers and the guests I'll be hosting this weekend, we will visit La Alhambra, have wine tastings, and visit historical places. People here are very excited about having the very first artistic perfumery event in town."

It is with joy that I'm therefore sharing with you the details. 

GranadAroma is an event born as a tribute to the historical legacy of Granada and Andalusia in the history of perfume and the decorative arts, to commemorate its past as one of the great historical epicenters of fragrance, both in antiquity and the Middle Ages, and its Andalusian heritage in later periods. Its aim is to reclaim for the city of Granada its rightful place as a benchmark in the history of European and international perfumery. It is the very first event exclusively dedicated to niche and artisan perfumery in Spain, with the aim of building on the city of Granada's olfactory culture and heritage. The list of exhibitors can be reached HERE. 

DETAILS:
Location and dates: Granada Chamber of Commerce C. Luis Amador, 26, Beiro, 18014 Granada 

06 March 2026 from 10 am to 10 pm 

07 March 2026 from 10 am to 2 pm 

Free access to the perfume exhibition Free access to the conferences until capacity is reached 

Instagram @granadaroma_

Estee Lauder Cinnabar: fragrance review & notes on inspiration

 

Cinnabar by Estée Lauder needs no introduction, really. It's well known at least by name to most perfume collectors. Its magical name accounts for much of its mystique, but the scent, bold, spicy, dense, plush is also cause for its reputation. 

photo borrowed via pinterest

 This is a perfume inspired by the natural pigment made from high-purity cinnabar mineral (HgS, Mercuric Sulfide) originating from China, which is characterized by its intense red hue. Cinnabar was mentioned by Theophrastus in the 4th century BC, and known in Greece as early as the 6th century BC as a natural red pigment. It was widely used in Greco-Roman and later painting, as well as in frescoes, portable icons, and Renaissance manuscripts. But the orientalized use is what stuck to the collective unconscious, and hence the name and references were perfect for an Far East fantasy of fragrant spices and all the rich tales of the Silk Road.

photo borrowed via pinterest

  Cinnabar was Lauder's stake at the end of the 1970s into the spicy oriental race which also gave us the legendary Opium. Developed however without direct influence from the YSL fragrances, although the packaging does indicate references to YSL's idea of the inro with the tassel, but rather from the progenitor of it all, Youth Dew by Lauder again.

With its intense cloves and spicy lily heart, Cinnabar therefore harkens back to Youth Dew and its mellis accord, but lightens the balsamic base notes by focusing on the incense-y tonality and the patchouli which nicely sidekicks the spices. The recent repackaging into the Classics collection, in the oblong bottles, is supreme, retaining the essence of the original and projecting like an amulet of spicy delight. A legend unto its own.

Macademia Nuts: the New Nut Trend in The Body Shop Macademia Nut & Cheirosa 71

 

Nuts were huge this past year. The perennial almonds, the hip pistacchios and the richly baklava-reminiscent walnuts...How about macadamia nuts, oily and neutral in terms of sweetness, but deliciously, mischievously salted, rendering their slightly bitter nuttiness into a rich aftertaste? 

 For this effect there is the appropriately named The Body Shop Butter me Up which takes nut butters to a whole other level, but more importantly the commercially successful, like Cheirosa 71(by hip and popular Sol de Janeiro brand) which put macadamia nuts on the perfumephile's map.
The effect is realistic, true to the nut, as in a profoundly oily scent, very caramelic too, yet the effect is crisp and crunchy. It feels like sweet & salty pop corn drizzled with caramel in a way!