Thursday, July 9, 2009

Lancome Hypnose Senses: fragrance review

There comes a time when something pleasant is mercilessly called out for what it is: a derivative! This is one such time and I have no regrets for calling a spade a spade. The newest Hypnôse Senses by Lancôme is a perfectly all right fragrance in every respect: From the dusty pink tones of the advertising images fronted by Daria Werbowy, to the actual juice, which smells lighter and pleasantly woodier than the standard sugary Hypnôse of 2005 to which it is a flanker. But what possessed them to replicate the formula of Coco Mademoiselle, one of Chanel's greatest best-sellers? Probably that last bit...

It was during my lazy strolling through Sephora the other day aiming for a tube of Yves Saint Laurent's exquisite mascara Faux Cils in some shade other than black (was hoping to locate Prune which is subtler than black, but more interesting than brown) that I literally bumbed into the new displays of the just-launched fragrance, up on a pedestral for casual shoppers to spritz and (hopefully) buy. My suprise must have been evident on my face as a young sales assistrant accosted me thinking I was inspired into a purchase. Sadly for her, no... It was the surprise of déjà vu!

The official blurb talks about "sensorial femininity", "a perfume with a playful sensuality, a hymn to the lightness of being" which would produce a ‘second skin’ feel, thanks to a spare and luminous interpretation of the chypre accord; a message that is well communicated through the visual cues given, both in the flesh-coloured liquid within the diaphanous bottle reprising the classic design of Magie, as well as the soft-focus advertising images; something tells me that the chromatic choice was primarily focused on an already mapped out advertising that would be anchored in "nude" colours. After all Hypnôse Senses just debuted and if the make-up and fashions directions for the hot summer are anything to go by, then this could be the only explanation. The structure is of chypre floral (register this as a "nouveau chypre", click the link for more information, which usually means a floral woody in fact with patchouli and/or vetiver base), composed by perfumers Christine Nagel, Ursula Wandel and Nathalie Feisthauer.

Hypnôse Senses opens on a richly citrusy and fruity note which immediately takes sweeter and powdery hues thanks to the swift repurcusions of vanillic and coumarinic balsams from the echoeing bottom (benzoin and tonka)with what I perceive as a hint of blond tobacco. The chord throughout is competently made with the usual feel of modern chypres, a perfumey composition that has a vague earthiness beneath the floral accents, like the reminder of warm clothes taken off at the end of the day; a honeyed silkiness over more austere elements. Like I said, it's well made, no doubt, but since Coco Mademoiselle is already successfully positioned and with no fear of discontinuation, what's the point besides repetition for repetition's sake?Lancôme have some older treasures in their hands, such as the fabulastically and most elegantly named Kypre, they could have exploited them. My sympathies to the renowned perfumers...

Notes for Lancôme Hypnôse Senses :
mandarin orange, pink pepper, osmanthus blossom, rose, honey, patchouli, cistus labdanum/rockrose, benzoin and tonka bean

Hypnôse Senses is available in 30, 50 and 75 ml bottles of Eau de Parfum in major department stores.

Related reading on Perfume Shrine: Lancome scents news & reviews, Chypre series



Pic via media.onsugar.com, Painting Deja vuBy Ramaz Razmadze via gm.iatp.org.ge

1 Million by Paco Rabanne in gold bullion, new Guerlain Bois Torride and new L'Artisan Havana Vanilla

According to statistics, the N°1 in masculine fragrance sales of 2008 was 1 Million by Paco Rabanne; a fragrance that was against the trend of freshness and minimalism, which proved just the thing sales-wise to differentiate itself with its flamboyant appeal of gold-lined packaging and its sassy advertising directed by Paul Gore at the accompaniment of "Do it Again" by the Chemical Brothers. To celebrate this success the groups Puig, licensors of the Paco Rabanne fragrances are launching a new Gold Collector edition next September.
One Million Gold Collector, in a flacon of 100 ml covered in metal and lacquered gold glass, will sell for 68,50 euros in select department stores.

Other exciting news of a more niche nature follow: Patty on Perfume Posse, who is currently happily spending quality time at the London Sniffa, just announced the news of a new L'artisan fragrance, called Havana Vanilla. To me this sounds like the aromatized Havana Honeys cigars, which come in flavours of vanilla or rum or cherry and my excitement is high: imagine a vanilla laced with tobacco in the L'Artisan airy lingo ~should be perfection. The scent wasn't ready for launch yet and there was only some tentative testing from an advance bottle, but the impressions sound very interesting (and I am a L'Artisan fan myself, so this got my antennae up), therefore pop over to Perfume Posse and read the piece.

Oh and there is a release by Guerlain possibly named Bois Torride? Savvy Thinker has the scoop!

Wednesday, July 8, 2009

The winner of the draw...

...for the Scent Systems sample kit is Jarvis!
Thanks for your enthusiastic participation everyone, and might I remind you you have till Friday midnight for submitting entries for the Lutens draw below. (Hope to post the winner of that next Monday).

Les Nez in Paris

LesNez, an independent niche line based in Switzerland whose scents we have lovingly reviewed and talked about on this link, has finally arrived in Paris. "We are very grateful to Madame Cros, who has agreed to carry the perfumes together with her fabulous collection of antique bedlinen".


Les Beaux Draps de Jeannine Cros, Paris
11, rue d'Assas 75006 Paris
Tue. - Sat.11.00 AM - 13.30 PM14.30 PM - 19.00 PM
Closed on Monday ~Vacation 2009: August

Angelina Jolie and David Beckham for the upcoming Armani fragrance ads


"Oscar winner Ange [Angelina Jolie], 34, is set to front a new fragrance for the Italian fashion house [Giorgio Armani] which already has football ace Becks, 34, starr-ing in its ads".
David Beckham and Angelina Jolie are to get up close and personal for the “sex­iest advert ever” according to The Daily Star.
The "multi-million pound" Armani campaign will begin as soon as technicalities such as the spouses' of the respective beautiful duo approval is given and collaborators are firmly set. The thinking behind the new advertsiements isn't hard to see, as the two stars, one the best-paid Hollywood actress and the other the best-known footballer, will "send sales soaring".
Armani reportedly came to an agreement with Angelina two weeks ago, but that was after a courtship spanning three years in which he was vying for her services.

It seems that the upcoming advertising is intended for Idole, the latest Giorgio Armani fragrance for women which we had reported on last May in this article. If so, it does seem to distract from his stated aim to "celebrate the women who have influenced his life, both professionally and personally". Has Angelina been such a great influence so far? Who knows...it's supposed to be eye candy anyway!

Edit to add: Albert, one of my readers and contributors, tells me that it can't be Idole, as they have already signed Kasia Smutniak for it, and another reader, CedriceCcentric suggests they could pose as a duo for best-selling Armani Code for men and for women. Sounds quite plausible to me!

pic collage of Angelina Jolie and David Beckham created by PerfumeShrine

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