The winner of the draw...

...for the Opardu sample is Liane. Congratulations and please email me with your shipping data using the Contact, so I can have this in the mail for you soon!

Thanks everyone for the enthusiastic participation and rest assured that anyone who missed their chance  this time will have PLENTY of chances on the multiple giveaway organized by Puredistance on Perfume Shrine soon to preview the new fragrance of the line (talking about plenty of perfume flowing!). Stay tuned!!

Ramon Monegal Impossible Iris: fragrance review

Impossible Iris is like those beautiful raven-haired girls with big, sincere eyes that seem to engulf you and creamy, gorgeous skin that shines with the sheen of mother-of-pearl (like Liv Tyler or Anne Hathaway to bring modern examples); there's both a wholesome appeal (in the sense of "non-plastic") and a retro elegance to it all (in the sense their beauty ideal defies tanned, scrubbed, peroxided "nowness").

Iris can be like that, when excellent, with the added artistic bonus of a delectable melancholia that negates all the "shiny happy people" silliness that is pack and parcel of the "plastic" and "nowness" mantra. But iris can also be a fragrance note that can render itself rather too prissy and difficult for its own good; too many times it can be too starchy and earthy-raw (smelling like boiled carrots or turnips) or it can become too dusty or too creepy cold like the tomb (and there's no better reference than the chilly Iris Silver Mist by Lutens if you're after that sort of effect). Perhaps this is why the easiest, most popular iris on the market is Infusion d'Iris by Prada, a smashing best-seller and a modern classic; no guesswork there, the fragrance isn't an iris per se as the name would suggest, it's a sweet woody incense built on benzoin! Other times iris can be tilted into violet-heavy territory (with whom iris shares ionones, molecules with a powdery, dirt/earth feel) and land into Parfums Lingerie, a totally different sort of aesthetic effect, makeup reminiscent rather than upturned garden dirt.

Personally, I like irises, especially woody ones, such as Bois d'Iris by The Different Company and the stupendous Chanel No.19, so testing Impossible Iris wasn't a challenge by any means. Still, it exceeded expectations and has found itself firmly in my perfume rotation which is something when you take into account the jadedness of a seasoned collector.

Ramón Monegal went neither way between chilly or earthy for Impossible Iris, opting for an iris fragrance that is recognizably iris, yet projects with a delicate, mimosa-laced/heather hint of sweetness under the metallic opening; clean, elegant, slightly soapy fresh and very appealing! It's an iris to put you in a good mood, for a change, with subtle floralcy and woodiness in equal measure, if that was possible, with all the prerequisites to make you fall in love with it just as easily as imagining Iris as a girl's name. It stands as the perfect metallic/woody iris to encapsulate and recapitulate all we have come to expect from a prime iris fragrance; there is the delicate, shy beginning with the cool touch, then comes the touch of wooly mimosa with its hint of warmth to smile into the proceedings, while the quiet, bookish woody tonality of the aftermath with its pencil shavings nuance is enough to consolidate it among the richer in nuance irises.

Ramón Monegal has that rare talent: he has taken "difficult" notes (iris, leather as in Mon Cuir, patchouli, as in Mon Patchouly) and rendered editions that transcend the rougher aspects into smoothing them into compliance, making them melt with pleasure under the sprayer and onto the skin...
Gaia, The Non Blonde, found it more floral in the beginning than I did, but we both loved it all the same.

I was impressed with the sillage (it's a perceptible iris that will get you comments, the positive kind) and with its tenacity and I find that though delicate and graceful, it can also be worn by men easily, thanks to its woody background and its slight tinge of fruitiness that adds just enough tart elements in the formula.


Notes for Impossible Iris by Ramon Monegal: Italian iris, Egyptian cassiopiae, framboise, ylang-ylang, Egyptian jasmine, Virginia cedarwood

Impossible Iris is available as Eau de Parfum in a beautiful inkwell bottle of 50ml at Luckyscent.

picture of Liv Tyler via rsmccain.blogspot.com

Ann Gerard Parfum Cuir de Nacre, Perle de Mousse, Ciel d'Opale: new fragrances

A jewelry designer with an interest in fragrance, Ann Gerard is channeled her creativeness into marrying the two, enlisting the help of master ( and very prolific!) perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour into her new fragrance line, exclusive available at Luckyscent.
The fragrances nicely reflect upon materials which make every woman dream a little, smooth and onctuous like mother of pearl or shiny and multi-faceted like opals...

According to the blurb:

“Jewelry, in its ultimate expression, 
turns into Perfume” 

A partner of every moment, the mirror of our emotions, a secret adornment. The first three fragrances of the collection were composed by the great perfumer and friend Bertrand Duchaufour.

Sculpting his materials to display their facets, radiance and transparency, he has fashioned fragrances that translate Ann Gerard’s vision. Uncompromising compositions in the noblest materials: An innovative, timeless debut collection.

Cuir de Nacre - An elegant intrepretation on leather: Notes of Iris, Sandalwood and Styrax magically transform into the most melting calfskin.

Perle de Mousse - In a masterful reinvention of the green floral chypre, Bertrand Duchaufour stretches out the muguet theme until it becomes a full orchestra.

Ciel d’Opale - Is there anything more intoxicating than basking in the heady, honeyed scent of a linden tree?

A discovery collection of 3X9ml goes for 65$.

Serge Lutens Une Voix Noire: out now!

Remember we had talked about the Paris exclusive bell-jar coming out of Le Palais Royal de Shiseido in September back when we had announced both Lutens releases for this year? The other was of course the stupendous Santal Majuscule, for the export market.

Une Voix Noire by Serge Lutens (a black voice) is finally out for purchase in Paris and online at the official Lutens site, tagged with the cryptic -as always- text: "The stars rise in focus. The night sky is filled with the light of the moon." Read a bit more about it on the link provided, before we embark on a full review shortly.

Related reading on Perfume Shrine: Serge Lutens news & fragrance reviews 

Pacifica Island Vanilla Solid & New Fragrance Sampling Programme

Pacifica, a range of well-priced, good quality scents that circulate in the US (and have been fortunate to been able to try in some of their scents in the past and see their delightful packaging) are introducing a new sampling program that is worth your attention. Their top 17 scents are now available as mini .1oz solid samples for just 2$ each, so you can pick your favorite without just relying on a written description. Plus there's a free sample for every order over 25$ and two free samples for every order over 50$.

Meanwhile, Pacifica is introducing a new solid perfume in those adorable little tins that you can slip into your purse or airbag when flying on a carrier with instructions on liquids: it's Island Vanilla, one of their best-selling fragrances combining vanilla absolute, jasmine and fruit with a touch of tea notes on top. Retailing at 9$ for the full size tin.

You can consult the official Pacifica page here.