Le Labo Vanille 44: fragrance review

To optically pair Vanille 44 by niche brand Le Labo with Luis Buñuel's Un Chien Andalou (1928) is a natural: The fragrance is illusory and surreal, like a razor slashing the eye ball that never actually happens. It's sexy too, in that perverted way of Buñuel's young novice about to take her vows led astray by her widowed uncle. How can a childhood aroma like vanilla do this stuff? Is there nothing sacred? Read on.

Vanille 44 weaves the cool, almost sour scent of frankincense (which naturally has citrus facets, therefore mixing well with bergamot and mandarin) into the tarry-smelling carapace of smoky woods, like gaiacwood. This tar-like inky note is due to pipol, a volatile component that smells of black smoky tea. But the treatment is diaphanous, complex veils of chiffon material rather than heavy damask, as one would have typically expected from an oriental fragrance based on this commonly thought of as aphrodisiac raw material, vanilla.

Le Labo's Vanille 44 is an atypical vanilla hidden beneath layers of other essences, veils of Salome, with a pronounced woody-musky trail (muscenone is a musk molecule) that would never have small children or those "too nice" co-workers with scrunchies on their hair atop bulky mohair sweaters to exclaim "you smell nice!". It's not that Vanille 44 doesn't smell nice, it's that it's not the instantly familiar sweet, cozy, foody vanilla these target groups are accustomed to. On the other hand, I don't know whether that super sophisticated group, who upturn their noses upon hearing your mother still likes Calvin Klein Eternity (which you faithfully buy for her every Christmas), would love it either. It's good stuff, created by one of the very best, perfumer Alberto Morillas (who has given us mega-hits from Kenzo Flower to Aqua di Gio for men for Armani) but is it that uncommon to warrant the huge price (500$ for 100ml)? I believe Lutens, Montale and Guerlain have already set foot in the smoky, woody or boozy vanilla territory respectively and not come back with losses. Vanille 44 is a good, mysterious fragrance, an oddball vanilla fragrance for adults of both sexes, but you need to forget about the name as it's as close to vanilla pods as Falco would be to the real Amadeus.

Le Labo presents it thus: "We all know that Paris is the city of love (and hence sex). But Paris is also the city of Vanille 44! We also know by now that our Rose 31 does not smell of only rose, that our Iris 39 does not smell of just iris, and that the number is as important (if not more) than the name of ingredient to the left of it (I am not a number !). Well our Vanille 44 does not smell of just Vanilla. At least it doesn’t smell of vanilla straight away. We could say that this theme is a subtle ambery incensy woody sexy note that once acquainted with your premium pashmina sweater will release the finest of the vanilla bourbons that you’ve experienced. It’s vanilla disguised."

You can say that again. 

Notes for Vanille 44 by Le Labo:
Natural bergamot, incense, mandarin, gaiac, vanille bourbon, muscenone, pipol, hedione

Le Labo Vanille 44 is a Paris city-exclusive (available at Colette), retailing at $290 for 50ml, but only for the month of November it is globally available at Luckyscent and on the official Le Labo site.

Related reading on Perfume Shrine:  Le Labo reviews & news ,Vanilla fragrances reviews

In the interests of disclosure, the review is based on a sample vial sent to me by the company.

Guerlain Abeille Paradis Interdit: new fragrance

Paradis Interdit by Mr.Guerlain/Facebook/www.monsieurguerlain.com

"Guerlain's perversely limited Paradis Interdit, Thierry Wasser's second Abeille perfume, is maybe not a new masterpiece gone unnoticed, but it's a gorgeous, classical white floral, made with that freshness and lightness Wasser has become known for. It begins with mandarin, at once softly juicy and effervescent, think the mandarin of Oriental Brûlant, or vintage Chant d'Arômes. A dash of pink pepper adds tickle. Then the flowers, of which jasmine is the most prominent, slightly stern and green but also creamy, the latter supported by ylang-ylang and gardenia. The Guerlain base sweetness is made up of labdanum, sandalwood, tonka bean, musk and what is described as a honey note. It's far from a symphonic, opulent floral perfume, but simply a beautiful scent of a summer garden. One would love the Abeille perfumes to be sold separately in simpler glass bottles. But I guess it would damage the joy of owning the Baccarat sculpture..."

"There's oud - and then there's oud": Perfumer Alberto Morillas Talks on Successful Perfume-Making

"Nothing is ever completely perfect and perfect is boring. Sometimes the big success is when a scent is imperfect. Some might say Angel [by Thierry Mugler] is too girlie. Others could say Chanel No 5 is outdated - but actually there's something about their disproportion that makes them memorable. It's all about the aesthetic and occasionally when the balance is off, it's good."

Spanish-born star perfumer Alberto Morillas talks about what makes winning scents, the intricasy and quality controls of natural raw materials for perfumery, his latest big fragrance launch for Valentino's new Valentina fragrance (review featured in the link), how specific ingredients create specific effects and how tastes haven't really changed that much over the years.

And why didn't he include rose in Valentina de Valentino, since it's a trademark motif of the fashion house? "Honestly, it's not easy to make roses 'young'," he shrugs. "It's a scent often associated with older ladies and jasmine is far younger. And although you do have roses in Italy, it's not really the essence of the country."

You can read the whole interview on this link at The National.

Aftelier Holiday Sale & Open Studio: December 9, 10, 11

Mandy Aftel invites visitors to her Aftelier studio to see and smell everything in person.
Her new Secret Garden perfume and EDP spray as well as her Oud Luban solid will be on display alongside several other scented products for both men & women (face elixirs, oils, perfumed teas, Chef's Essences and botanicals).
For the occasion there will be delicious snacks offered as well, Valrhona chocolate, Satsuma tangerines, perfumed teas, Phoenix bread, hydrosol-flavoured water and of course cheese.

More information at info@aftelier.com 
Where:
1518 Walnut Street, Berkley CA 94709
tel: 510-841-2111
When:
On Friday December 9, Saturday 10 and  Sunday 11 from 10am to 6pm.

L'Artisan Parfumeur: London party & Christmas shopping offer

For our London (or UK) residing readers, I got an interesting promo in the mail which might be just the thing for those of you who are doing your Christmas shopping now and gearing it towards scented products.
The Paris Doorways packaging design is sublimely cute!

L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR’S CHRISTMAS PARTY
IN COVENT GARDEN

Thursday 24th November, from 4 pm until closing

Come and do your Christmas shopping with L'Artisan Parfumeur
with drinks, nibbles and a magical seasonal atmosphere!

PLUS
Enjoy an exceptional offer with a
HALF PRICE 50ml FRAGRANCE OF YOUR CHOICE
when you purchase two Christmas gift sets.

Check selection & prices at www.artisanparfumeur.com