Saturday, February 5, 2011

Petite Mort: Parfum d'une Femme by Bertrand Duchaufour for Marc Atlan

Sly advertising that cleverly crosses the lines without vulgar displays is the image that accompanies one of the most provocative concepts in perfumery nowadays: La Petite Mort is of course codename for orgasm...
"Inspired directly by the only bodily fluid secreted solely through desire and brain chemistry, Petite Mort™ (Parfum d'une Femme) embodies the elusive substance that is created by a woman when she is about to climax. Petite mort, little death, total release; beyond a scent, more like a convulsion of the senses, like a hot, gasping breath that penetrates your memories and alters your subconscious".

I can tell that it will create endless discussion on the boundaries (and artfulness) of advertising, just like some of the best examples have in the past.

Bertrand Duchaufour, star perfumer of niche perfumery, collaborated here with Art et Parfum and Kilian Hennesy (of By Kilian fame) for Marc Atlan, creative director & designer issuing this new fragrance under his own name. Duchaufour worked in this no doubt provocative concept like a challenge. Petite Mort’s fragrance exudes an animal carnality with salty notes of sweat and urea. But warm milk, which is supposed to be the scent that the human brain most closely associates with human skin is also featured in the form of Sulfurol. According to the perfumer, certain subtle ingredients in the perfume are discriminatory, and these notes will not be perceived by everyone. He also describes Petite Mort as “aphrodisiacally compelling”.

Only 100 bottles by renowned verreries Pochet (purveyors to Empress Eugénie of France since 1858) will circulate as well as 15 artistic mods for exhibitions. The price of 1000$ for 10ml reflects the exclusive side of the project and allegedly the intensity of concentration (supposedly 100% compound). The scent was introduced at the Elements Showcase in New York on January 30, 2011. (more on that one on these pages shortly!)

More info and availability for purchase (from this coming April onwards) on the official site.

pic via punmiris

Friday, February 4, 2011

Francois Demachy: Perfumer at Parfums Dior & elsewhere (and footnotes on La Collection Couturier Parfumeur)

I was flatteringly asked by an industry magazine to comment on the work of François Demachy, perfumer and artistic director of Parfums Dior, in view of the 2010 re-issue of Diorama for US distribution and the introduction of "La Collection Couturier Parfumeur" this past autumn. The information was conductive to an interview with the perfumer himself, which appeared in this winter's edition of fashion magazine Industrie. In the interest of our readers who do not have access, I'm sharing some of the points discussed in relation to how Demachy's work has evolved at Dior and LVMH over the years, as well as my views on his personal aesthetics, supplemented by short reviews on some of the newer exclusive scents in "La Collection Couturier Parfumeur".
I welcome your own comments and views on the subject!


The first question involved the possibility or not of a clear-cut "signature" in the work of Demachy. Some perfumers who have attained almost a guru status among perfume enthusiasts (I'm thinking Jean Claude Ellena, Christopher Sheldrake et al) have a very specific style which they express through their every project.

Elena Vosnaki: It would be very difficult to ascribe a clear-cut "signature style" to any artist when they're bound by commissions or commercial briefs. The artist has to follow the patron's demands to some degree; also their specifications and range of options in regards to the media available (the budget for ingredients, growers' and labs' options as availability allows, specific range of concept or focus groups etc.). Perfumers who act as art directors naturally have a greater artistic control over the projects they oversee, but it's not 100% free either. While Jean-Claude Ellena enjoys a sort of what seems like unprecedented artistic freedom at Hermès, probably due to his already documented manifesto and Hermès’s lesser financial dependency on the turnover of their perfumes, Dior and Demachy present a different case: Dior Parfums cater for a huge chunk of the LVMH portfolio and therefore there are several considerations when launching a new fragrance.
Having said that, the latest Escale series for Dior as well as a few flankers for Dior’s best-sellers (Miss Dior Chérie L’Eau, J’Adore Eau de Cologne Florale, Dior Homme Cologne, Farhenheit 32) bring on a new clarity to the range which cannot be attributed to anyone else but Demachy. It’s hindsight in a way, as both perfumers see Edmond Roudnitska as their mentor and have been influenced by his restrained style; an observation worth keeping in mind when reviewing all the latest Eaux in the Dior range. So I think that Demachy will crystallize his vision in the coming years, especially if his desire for a more “hand-crafted” feel is (hopefully) sanctioned by LVMH. The increased quality ~amped with more precious naturals~ in J’Adore L’Absolu, as well as the re-issue of ultra-classic Diorama seem to be positive steps in the right direction, which is further honed with his output in La Collection Couturier Parfumeur; especially in New Look 1947, a gorgeous floral with silky aldehydic sprinkling; and Mitzah, a sexy amber focused on the Ambre83 base that flanks resins with labdanum and castoreum, feeling like provocative underpinnings under a structured dress.

Next the discussion touched on Diorama, the re-issue for the American market as contrasted to the former versions.

EV: Diorama is of course one of the “parfums-phares” of Dior and stands among Roudnitska’s work as the summation of his course from the “patisserie” style of Rochas Femme to the more vibrant offerings that followed (Diorella, Dior-Dior etc). It’s absolutely stunning in its vintage form, the fruitiness taking on a burnished, tawny quality half-way between garbage and mouth-watering delicacy, which makes it compelling. The till recently circulating edition in the Paris boutique was very good, but a bit attenuated compared with my vintage specimens. I would be thrilled to have it reconstituted it in its original form, although I’m fearful that first the hawks at Brussels are watching with a stern eye (IFRA restrictions are something that Demachy himself bemoans and admits as being a major obstacle for the old guard) and secondly, it’s not going to be tremendously popular with the general public; but that’s all right, it’s a connoisseur’s fragrance anyway.
[I have reviewed the former exclusive edition on this link and my thoughts on the 2010 Diorama re-release are posted here].


In what has to do with his work at LVMH, Demachy applies some interesting aspects and ingredients to bring on fragrances that will feel contemporary but also quite sensual.

EV: I think Demachy's old-school Grassois romanticism (he was born in Cannes in 1949) coupled with a very clear, a little savage but at the same time “translucent” technique make for this interesting synergy of modern and classic. For instance, his Escale à Portofino is a perfect mélange of a tried & true concept and a contemporary-feeling formula. It smells bright and fresh without evoking a stuffy, obsolete sensibility of “splashing citrusy tonic after shaving”. There’s sensuality and elegance in Portofino, if one looks carefully. The citron essence, specially treated for Dior (they also have 2 varieties of petit-grain reserved for them), is also of interest and I think it constitutes a trend we’ll be seeing more of.
He's quoted to say: “I believe in the virtues of aromacology: a fresh cologne, with Mediterranean accents of citrus fruit and aromatic scents immediately creates a good mood.” It was on that axiom that the exclusive Cologne Royale was built for Dior. On that train of thought, I would love to see him expand and fine-tune his vision of the great “Eau” (If not surpassing the gigantic Eau Sauvage, then offer the feminine suggestion to speak to young women of today); possibly beyond the established Cruise collection of the Escale scents, into a stand-alone major feminine new launch perhaps! Not only a “parenthesis in the world of perfumes” ~as he described his entry for Escale à Portofino~ and certainly a major step beyond the nostalgic Eau de Grasse Impériale composed at his father's apothecary.
And of course, now I have sampled his all too recent work for La Collection Couturier Parfumeur, I can see that the line is clearly destined to include some classics-to-be: Leather Oud is already shaping up to be a cult favourite, exploiting the multiple nuances of agarwood alongside a rough note (leather) that is making a come-back most forcefully along the industry. His pastoral theme of a certain rustic roughness in Granville (also in the Collection Couturier Parfumeur ), as expressed through the use of provencial herbs ~rosemary, thyme, basil~ shows vigour!


Last but not least, Demachy oversees projects ourside Dior as well: The question is whether he infuses them with a personality that is uniquely his own and how does this happen from an aesthetic viewpoint.

EV: I happen to feel that he has an endearing old-fashioned love for the traditional role women designate perfume for: romance! This was also highlighted in some of his work at Chanel where he collaborated since 1977 (albeit a phase shrouded in a little mystery till recently). I will bring a personal experience to illustrate my point: I recall how I was gifted with Diva by Ungaro when I was merely 18 years old by my beau who liked perfumes. Iliterally grew up with chypres, being of Mediterranean descent, so it was a natural for me, but the expansive, rosy-mossy embrace that engulfed me was almost too emotional: I felt that the perfume was speaking words of love, not only because it was offered me by a loved one, but because it was so very romantic and expressive in itself, a little "hit you on the head with sentiment!". When Demachy collaborated at Ungaro with Jacques Polge (officially head perfumer of Chanel for the last 3 decades) for it, they must have dreamt up of a fiesty Italian heroine such as the one in Visconti’s “Il Gatopardo”. Demachy, I feel, likes the gesticulating, expressive style of the Italians and the sunnier disposition of the insular Roman palazzi to the gloom and reserve of steel-skyed Versailles and its plottings.
His Italian predeliction (he is especially simpatico to the Mediterranean climate and loves the cities of Syracuse and Siena) is also showing in some other creations: Aqua di Parma Colonia Intensa, for instance or the reworking of Pucci’s Vivara (2007). It was sad to see the entire Fendi line disappear into thin air nevertheless, his being Palazzo, although certainly no fault of Demachy himself!

Christian Dior La Collection Couturier Parfumer fragrances are circulating in the following sizes in Europe: 150 euros for 125 ml, 225 euros for 250 ml et 330 euros for 450 ml and ONLY in 250ml bottles for the time being in the US.

photos via Dior, punmiris and estheticrfactory.fr

Wednesday, February 2, 2011

Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire model 2, Aqua Allegoria Jasminora & Elixir Charnel Floral Romantique : new fragrances

Guerlain has set up its sights high again this spring with several releases vying for perfume enthusiasts' attention: some are meant for the exclusive boutique circuit, some are for wider distribution. Let's see them in detail.



La Petite Robe Noire - Model 2 (set to launch widely on Valentine's Day 2011 and already circulating in Guerlain boutiques and espaces at Bergdorf Goodman's and Harrod's). This is version 2.0 of the previous contrarian opus La Petite Robe Noire which had Guerlain fans up in arms back in 2009 ("sacrilege! cartoon of a nighty! what's Chanel doing chez Guerlain?"). The new version in Eau de Parfum, created by Thierry Wasser, will be less fruity-tangy and more powdery-floral with an orange blossom note and accents of iris and...marshmallow, "infinitely delicate and perfectly sweet" (all right, the first edition wasn't the paragon of mature sophistication either!). At least the new one has an intriguing note of leather (!) and is promised to be powdery which is unusual to say the least for a fragrance aimed at the quite young.

Head notes: Bergamot, Lemon, Galbanum
Heart notes: Orange Blossom, Marshmallow, Iris
Base notes: Leather, White Musk

ETA: We have updated with a full review on this link.




Elixir Charnel Floral Romantique: It launches on May 1st, i.e. one day exactly after the exclusive -and supremely ephemeral, one day only- distribution of Guerlain Muguet which we announced a few days ago and have now supplemented with an official pic of the special bottle. Elixir Charnel Floral Romantique is another fragrance for the Guerlain boutique circuit and not for wide distribution.
The fifth chapter in the notoriously bad-copied line of Elixir Charnels (Carnal Elixirs) ,after Boisé Torride, should see the line-up completed, as it tackles the one fragrance family that was lacking: the floral.

Composed as an Eau de Parfum (in 75ml bottles) by Thierry Wasser, Guerlain Carnal Elixir Floral Romantique includes fresh top notes of mandarin and orange, heart notes of jasmine, ylang-ylang and tiare, with accents of lily and carnation and a woody base of cedar combined with smoked tea, chestnut, ambrette and mate tea.
The fragrance will make its debut in early June 2011.


Aqua Allegoria Jasminora: It launches in May 2011 in the familiar Aqua Allegoria line in the revamped packaging we got to know last year from Flora Nymphea and the travel exclusive Bouquet No.1. Jasminora will be part of the big department stores fare although the name is a nostalgic throw-back to glamorous eras of Guerlain history.
Head notes: Bergamot, Cyclamen, Galbanum
Heart notes: Jasmine, Freesia, Lily of the Valley
Base notes: Musks, Amber

Edit to add: We have updated with a full review of Jasminora on this link

Everything is coming up floral for Guerlain this spring it seems! What gives?

Related reading on Perfume Shrine: Upcoming releases from Hermes, or Guerlain, et al.

pic via tunisiefemme.com and Skin Care Beauty Product blog

Aura by Swarovski: new fragrance


Swarovski, the famous crystalliers, had announced their desire to launch a perfume at least two years ago. Now, this spring, after strenuous work on the concept and packaging, will see this project becoming materialized in a new fragrance for women, called Aura by Swarovski. The fragrance is a product of the collaboration between the crystal company and Clarins Group. Curiously enough, one of the greatest obstacles was the incorporation of crystal in the context of a commercial bottle. Finally a graceful symbiosis of metal, glass and decorative crystal was agreed upon, examples of which you can see on the pictures of the bottles below.

The fragrance of Aura by Swarovksi is centered around floral notes of white tuberose, garlanded by fruity accents of litchi and a background of rosy pink pepper. The jus for Aura was created at Firmenich by acclaimed perfumers Jean-Pierre Bethouat and Olivier Cresp.
The accompanying advertising campaign was produced by the New York agency Select with the tag line "aura: the grace of light" and will hit glossies and TV screens this coming spring.

Aura by Swarovski will circulate in 4 rechargeable bottle sizes: 15 ml, 36 € ; 30 ml, 56 € ; 50 ml, 76 € ; 75 ml, 96 €. The extrait de parfum will launch in 2012.
Plans for limited edition collectors' bottles as well as a line of "bijoux de maquillage" (decorative makeup items) are on the cards as well.
Distribution of Aura will begin on April 1st 2011 in France and worldwide in big department stores and select perfumeries, as well as in the eponymous boutiques of the crystal maker.

Juliette Has a Gun new trio: Lucifer, Marilyn & Mary Jane

"Candles always fascinated me. I do not know, if it is a kind of neurosis, but I can't wait at the idea of receiving a new one. As soon as I lit it , the charm of the light and the smell incite me to want to buy more and more. And because I like making only what I love, I could not resist the desire to create my own candles. I wanted to present them to you as a Triptych - now, it belongs to you to discover it ". Thus introduces Romano Ricci, founder of Juliette has a Gun line of fragrances, his new trio of candles, fit for creating a romantic atmosphere this Valentine's Day: 48 euros for 200g each in silvery pots bearing text on the outside.


Lucifer
Interesting... if there is a God, how there could not be also a Devil. How the white could exist without its opposite side, the black?
I wanted this candle to embody something which is-in the end- natural.
Aren't we all sinners?
Straight to hell!
A scent of fire and live embers. A wood fire scent!

Marilyn
Marilyn Monroe - With her beauty and her sensuality, she is the icon of "Glamour". But Marilyn was more than a fantasy of the 50's. She was the biggest star of theses times, and remains, unquestionably, the most famous woman of the XXth century.
This candle with notes of red lipstick delicately powdered is dedicated to her, so she can continue to be among us. Notes of iris and violet.

Mary Jane
Mary Jane: what a tender name for a drug...
For 5000 years, numerous persons use the resin consisted of pressing Marijuna. Are they wrong? Certainly! If we inhale it, we are invaded by a feeling of happiness, we feel suddenly more artistic, or...simply better.
The Marijuana - center of the male imagination? According to french writer Charles Baudelaire, it could be responsible for our " desire of immortality ".
The scent of hash, with notes of oud wood and pine resin.


Pic via maisonclothes. Thanks to my reader ashraf for additional info.

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