Tuesday, December 21, 2010

Parfums Boucheron Change Hands

Parfums Boucheron, sprung out of the famous jewellers by the same name and until recently in the hands of L’Oréal, will soon join Interparfums, a dynamic group of no less than 259 millions of euros in sales last year. The agreement will be effective January 1st 2011 and will last for 15 years.

Founded in 1982, Interparfums control the licences of fragrances for Burberry, Paul Smith and Jimmy Choo (a new, upcoming fragrance by the celebrated shoe-maker is in the works), while they also own parfums Lanvin.
Boucheron, on the other hand, is making its presence known in the Far East with the launch of 6 to 10 jewellery boutiques in the following 5 years in the Chinese market, in accordance to Sparkle Roll Group Limited of Hong Kong.

The fragrance portfolio of Parfums Boucheron is fairly restrained: Five fragrances comprise the current line-up, invariably of high quality (and in the case of Boucheron de Boucheron, to majestic effect): B de Boucheron, Boucheron (femme), Boucheron pour homme, Miss Boucheron et Jaïpur Homme. Boucheron Trouble and Initial have been discontinued, according to our sources.
Usually take-overs spell news on the fragrant front, be it in the way of repackaging (usually with a face-lift to the scent itself) or a new plate of advertising opportunities. Let's hope for the latter, rather than the former. Parfums Boucheron are fine as they are.

Monday, December 20, 2010

Patricia de Nicolai: Portrait of a Woman in a Man's World

"When I started, the big manager of the company was the brother of my grandmother. He wasn't the perfumer but he was the big manager. He wasn't an artistic man. First, he said 'you're a woman --' " and secondly, referring to the many years of training and apprenticeship required to become a master perfumer, she explained, "he told me, 'You'll get married, you'll have children, you will stop your job after a while.' " It's a typical tale across many occupations, even ones where, like fashion, the mythology and creative muse is female. "In Guerlain they are very machiste," de Nicolai continued, lifting a clenched fist to illustrate the emphasis. "The family who worked in the brand was only men, no women. And they like to embroider on those love stories!"
Thus elaborates Patricia de Nicolaï, 54, great-granddaughter of Maison Guerlain founder Pierre Guerlain, an ISIPCA graduate herself who was awarded best perfume creator in 1988 by the French Society of Perfumers and currently president of L'Osmothèque, the perfume museum in Versailles [you can read more on the Osmotheque on this link]. On her own site she graciously states "Jean-Paul Guerlain was her coach and thanks to him she has been trained in the best possible companies, places where you really learn the job to become a perfumer".

Whatever the case might be, her extensive line of perfumes enjoys a cult following, from the delectable masculine New York (which Dr.Turin has been wearing for years by his admission), the iris-strewn Balkis and the creamy tropical Juste un Rêve to the lush and balanced Maharanih, the more-than- just-a-cologne Carre d'As and the springtime in a bottle Le Temps d'une Fête. Some even come up as instant spontaneous fragrance recommendation whenever one searches for a creamy, delectable grown-up vanilla (Vanille Tonka), a melancholy heliotrope with feminine mystique (Sacrebleu), the definitive sophisticated summery cologne (Cologne Sologne) or the perfect mimosa (Mimosaique).
All the way right down to the candles and home fragrance which kickstarted her perfume company back in 1989 alongside Jean Louis Michau, back when the concept was still novel and romantic, her line breathes elegance and quality. Someone even once said that one of her candles was enough to start a minor religion...
She admits being influenced by the Guerlain tradition, the rich timbre, the beauty of the scents, the distinction of a signature style, and the tenacious sillage they impart. After all, her own personal fragrance as a young woman had been Après l’Ondée. She grafted those qualities into her own line to much success. In a world populated by men, Patricia de Nicolaï is a woman who has proven her own mettle and that's to be respected.

Read more on the article by Nathalie Atkinson on the National Post.

Related reading on Perfume Shrine: Perfumer's Portraits


pic of Patricia via her own site

Sunday, December 19, 2010

Kate Beckinsale Shops for Scents at Frederic Malle


The fickle world of celebrities sustains its course into having us breakdown their fragrant choices. This time courtesy of Angela Buttolph at Grazia Daily who snaps Kate Beckinsale on a shopping romp for Christmas gifts at the F.Malle counter at Barneys, Los Angeles, decked in her black leggings, her pensive gaze captured for eternity as she sniffs candles in the characteristic red shade canisters of the Home Collection. (Might I also add that it's refreshing to see normal-size thighs on a celebrity instead of sticks?) But much more important in my opinion is the enthusiasm that Angela instils in the piece, as she recounts her own exploration of the Malle line instead, in what transpires as a rite of passage for a fumehead: "Beauty insiders will have been nodding approvingly knowing that Beckinsale has exquisite taste, because those candles aren’t just any candles; they’re candles from the sexiest perfume label on the planet – Frédéric Malle. So look away now if you are a perfume obsessive or have any kind of addiction issues, or have access to a credit card…because I can tell you from personal experience that Malle’s fragrances are more addictive than crack cocaine (and just as pricey a habit)."
With poetic references to her favourites, Une Rose (the classic earthy rose in the collection before Portrait of a Lady busted into the scene this season) and En Passant, it's worth a read for anyone who identifies with discovering fragrances that speak to one's soul. What did Kate buy in the end? Who cares...

photo of Kate Beckinsale shopping at Barneys via OhhLaLook

Free Aromatherapy Course

Abdes Salaam of La Via del Profumo (Profumo.it) announced some wonderful news: a free aromatherapy course which is available online at www.profumo.it/aromacourse.doc
The scope is meant for the benefit of people and not for commercial reasons while Abdes describes some of the stunning effects that aromatherapy can have, with reports and pictures from my Timbuktu experiences. You can reach those on the following link. http://www.profumo.it/Blog/index.php (scroll down a few texts)


More info on La Via de Profumo and Abdes Salaam: http://www.profumo.it/
Check our reviews of his scents on the widgets below.

Wednesday, December 15, 2010

Penhaligon's Olfactory Owl

Now here's something to get all aflutter for. Harry potter fans as well as fumeheads now have something in common, something as unthinkable as an...owl. Penhaligon’s, the fine English fragrance house founded in 1870, is delighted to announce that an Olfactory Owl will be touring London during December.

The Owl, created in homage to their illustrated Christmas Gift Boxes, will be popping up in various locations around London to spread some festive fragrant joy and offer exclusive discount vouchers and perfume samples. Dressed in Victorian finery, the Olfactory Owl will be journeying across London on foot and by tube and bus, taking in some of London’s iconic landmarks and shopping hotspots.
The Owl will be promoted via the Penhaligon’s Facebook and Twitter accounts and customers will be invited to submit pictures of the Olfactory Owl to win Christmas prizes. Customers can keep up to date with the Owl’s progress by checking his schedule on Facebook and Twitter and by following the Owl’s tweets during his journeys.

The schedule for Penhaligon's Olfactory Owl:
Thursday 16th December – Oxford Street, Bond Street, Savile Row, Burlington Arcade, Fortnum & Mason
Saturday 18th December – Regent Street and Trafalgar Square
Sunday 19th December – Knightsbridge, Sloane Square, Green Park, Piccadilly
Tues 21st December – Covent Garden, Somerset House, British Museum

Get more information/updates:
Penhaligons on Twitter: @Penhaligonsltd #OlfactoryOwl
Penhaligons on Facebook

info/pics via press release

This Month's Popular Posts on Perfume Shrine