She's only got 2 & 1/2 expressions, for Pete's sake!!

I am not a catty person. Really, I am not. But the news some months ago that the expresioneless, manufactured-to-be-a-star, young, skinny Keira Knightley would be the new face of Chanel, substituting Kate Moss in the ads for Coco Mademoiselle perfume brought out the meow in me.
And this September the prospect of opening any glossy or switching on the TV risking to come face to face with her pouty mug is somehow giving me the creeps. You can say I am positively repelled.

Obviously, my opinion in corporate marketing doesn't matter at all; otherwise instead of coping with papers and mycenean amphorae I would be sitting at a board meeting vetoing choices like the above. Not that I regret it, because -let's face it- it's a fluff business at heart. However it would be kind of fun to shot down faces like Keira's.

The girl was all right in "Bend it like Beckham". Nobody knew her, she wasn't smug, the other girl was great in this film and Jonathan Rhys Meyers was exhibiting his own charm aplenty. And the film was original and refreshing!
Since then I can safely argue that I haven't seen her in anything in which she -specifically- was worthy of mention and her nomination for the Academy Awards for "Pride and Prejudice" (a flat, boring adaptation if there ever were one; what happened with that perfect BBC version?) convinced me we have to bear with ms.Knightley as long as the studios think they have the new version of sliced bread on their hands. Like I said, the girl's only got two and a half expressions (one of which is that pouty one depicted above)...Have you actually seen her laugh? Small children are intimidated into eating all their veggies when faced with such a toothy chukle.
I won't even think of commenting on her pretend angry/tough "face", because, really, you don't want to hear any more meow out of me...

But Perfume Shrine has a responsibility to the readers. And the same way we were the first to report the lovely news and pics of Kate Winslet as new face for Trésor, so we had the responsibility to not lag behind because of our personal displeasure. So here it is. The print ad and the stills from the TV spot shot by Joe Wright that will air on our screens in the upcoming months.

Chanel has always been very careful about their advertising campaigns and their Chanel No.5 series is testament to that, as well as their wonderful Egoiste and Coco commercials, two of the most memorable ones in all perfume advertising. Perfume Shrine had elaborated on a series of those commercials in the past.
You can read the whole article on No.5 clicking here and on Egoiste and Coco here with multimedia links to the commercials themselves.

The statements exchanged for the new campaign went somewhat like this
(reported in this link):

"Keira Knightley is a bright, young actress who has already made her mark in a diverse portfolio of films, including her Oscar-nominated performance in `Pride & Prejudice'" said Chanel artistic director Jacques Helleu in a statement.

He also said Knightley's elegance, beauty and modernity parallel some of the brand's other previous famous faces, including Catherine Deneuve and Nicole Kidman, who represented Chanel No. 5.

"(I am) really proud to have been asked to work with such an iconic house as Chanel, and thrilled to follow the extraordinary women who have been associated with it before," Knightley said in a statement.

"We think Keira is perfect because she is always incredibly alluring and seductive," said a Chanel spokesman. "She would not have looked out of place in the Forties or Fifties, and that's why she was chosen - to show a timeless chic that will never fade."

Keira herself went as far as to suggest that "Chanel's Coco is the first perfume I've ever worn" , which oddly (enter sarcasm) reminds me of a parallel statement by Nicole Kidman when she was signed for the No.5 campaign. No matter that we do know she opts for several others over it....

In the new ads Keira is trying to cement her sexy(?) and naughty(?) reputation -supposedly she was voted "sexiest actress" in a UK poll- playing around with a bowler hat, Berlinesque-stripper style (oh, she should get some lessons from Charlotte Rampling...) and indulging in gentle gender-play (no relation with those great commercials that you can read on and see here).

And frankly? I think the red Karl Lagerfel dress does not suit Coco Mademoiselle. But you can always say that my fangs are showing...


Pics come from popsugar, poponthepop and style.popcrunch sites.

Upcoming launches that caught my fancy

From August onwards there will be a frenzy of new launches according to Woman's Wear Daily to titilate the consumer into trying new versions of beloved fragrances or re-issues of older vintage fragrances of a bygone era or yet still new and supposedly original compositions.
The proof is in the pudding, but for the time being these are the launches that have got my heart going in quicker palpitations.

THE RE-ISSUES

The re-issues of legendary Givenchy perfumes, Les Mythiques(=the mythical ones): If you recall, Perfume Shrine had the scoop on the scheduled re-issues a long time ago .

These three are scheduled for October:
Givenchy Eau de Vetyver (at $65 for 100ml).
Givenchy Monsieur , the personal favourite of mr.Hubert de Givenchy, kept into production on his behalf and now re-issued ($65 for 100 ml).
and Givenchy Xeryus harking back from the early 80s ($65 for 100 ml).

All of these will be available from Nordstorm in US in limited distribution (16 doors).
No other confirmation on re-issues (especially the much anticipated L'interdit) thus far.


Rober Piguet is also hot on the re-issue front, after his much beloved Baghari re-issue of the aldehydic classic which although different than the vintage managed to smell enticing, elegant and poised. Read a full review here.
For October the house plans on launching re-issues of Visa, a women's fragrance available exclusively at Le Bon Marchι in Paris and Harvey Nichols in London priced at $190 for 30ml/1oz. parfum, $65 for 50ml1.7oz. eau de parfum and $95 for 100ml/3.4oz. eau de parfum. The vintage issued in 1945 was an animalic fragrance of potency that was anchored by an orientalised base, so the anticipation on how the new one will live up is palpable. Givaudan's Aurelien Guichard has adapted initial perfumer Germaine Cellier's original for today's market and it includes the following notes: White Vineyard Peach, Pear, Violet leaves, Italian Bergamot, Yellow Mandarin, Ylang-ylang, Rose, Orange flower absolutes, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Vetiver, Moss, Vanilla, Benzoin and Leathery Notes (according to Basenotes)
Also click here for official info.

And the men's Cravache available in specialty store distribution in about 150 doors internationally at $55 for 50ml/1.7oz. and $85 for 100ml/3.4oz. eau de toilette. The original, issued in 1963, was labeled a spicy floral chypre and was characteristic of the era. It remains to be seen how it will be accepted by today's discerning customers. It contains notes of Mandarin, Lemon, Petitgrain, Clary sage, Lavender, Nutmeg, Vetiver and Patchouli. The modernised version will be available as 50ml and 100ml Eau de Toilette, 100ml After Shave and a 200ml Dual-purpose Shave Cream/Body Wash (according to Basenotes). Also click here for official info.


NEW VARIATIONS OF POPULAR FRAGRANCES

It has been very common these past year to launch the so-called "flankers" ~new fragrances that take the name and/or image of a previous successful perfume and give it a twist (sometimes rendering the smell unrecognisable) to appeal to the consumer who loves the old version but craves something new as well. Usually these flankers do not succeed in delivering, however there are some exceptions and with that in mind I have these two from Guerlain on my must-try list:

Guerlain Shalimar Black Mystery (a limited edition). It will be available in 1400 doors (Saks, Sephora, Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdale's, Bergdorf's, Nordstrom, Macy's and Dillard's) at $110 for 75ml of eau de parfum. Scheduled to launch in October.

Guerlain My Insolence. It will be available in 1400 doors (Saks Fifth Avenue, Sephora, Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdale's, Bergdorf Goodman, Nordstrom, Macy's and Dillard's) at $45 for 30ml/1oz, $62 for 50ml/1.7oz, and $89 for 100ml/3.4oz of eau de toilette. Scheduled to launch in September.

Another flanker that sounds promising is Agent Provocateur's Strip (taking the name from the naughtily illustrated candles they had issued along with their eponymous fragrance some years ago). It will be available in Bloomingdales and on their online site at $65 for 50ml/1.7 oz of eau de parfum.

And last but not least, Chanel is revamping the No.5 line with No. 5 Eau Premiθre , which will be available at department and specialty stores and on chanel.com at $125 for 150ml/5 oz. To be launched in October.
Not super excited for something in such a big bottle, but worth trying something new in the formidable stable of No.5. After all the Sensual Elixir in this fragrance proved to be lovely. Let's see...

And the NEW FRAGRANCES

From Guerlain, Spiritueuse Double Vanille which will be available in four doors (Neiman Marcus San Francisco, Bergdorf's, Epcot in Orlando and The Breakers Hotel in West Palm Beach) at $200 for 75 ml. Sounds like an exclusive to me and those always build some anticipation. To be out in November.

Jo Malone White Jasmine & Mint Cologne . It will be available at Jo Malone Shops and jomalone.com, specialty stores (Bergdorf's, selected Neiman Marcus and Saks stores)and also at Holt Renfrew in Canada exclusively. It will retail at $50 for 30ml/1 oz or $95 for 100ml/3.4 oz and will launch in October.

Bulgari is launching Eau de toilette Rosee in September. It will be first available exclusively in Macy's, followed by Bloomingdale's, Bergdorf's, Lord & Taylor, Saks, Neiman Marcus, Sephora and Nordstrom. It will retail at $69 for 50ml/1.7 oz. or $98 for 100ml/3.4 oz

And Creed is introducing Amalfi flowers in October, available exclusively at 19 Saks doors at $270 for 50ml/1.7oz. or $450 for 8.4oz in an eau de parfum bottle signed and numbered by Olivier Creed.


I hope you have taken notes as I did and are thinking about what your sniff-list will be this coming autumn. Hopefully Perfume Shrine will be around to offer a considered viewpoint to these new launches and help you along in your choices.


In the meantime, expect to see an interesting interview with an acclaimed perfumer whose perfumes will be the talk of the town soon and a review of a new magnificent scent by a nose that has been already reviewed here at Perfume Shrine.
Stay tuned!!

Pic of Givenchy stamp for 2007 Valentine's day from french post.
Pics of Cravache ad and Guerlain crystal bottles come from Ebay.

Lies and Misdemeanors

How many times have you heard a story regarding the creation of a perfume and in the end realised it must be a fabrication?
From the almost bordering to the homeric notion of "genius through incapacitation" of Coco Chanel picking up the specific batch of Ernest Beaux's No.5 while having a severe headache to another tale ~ according to which Beaux's assistant was the culprit behind the revolutionary amount of aldehydes poured by accident into a vat of jus ready for the making that resulted in a new category of perfumes.
From the melancholic Mitsouko name supposedly meaning "mystery" in Japanese (well, it means "child of light", if you want to know) and the tale that Jicky was the nickname of an unfortunate coup de foudre that Aime Guerlain harbored for an English girl (in reality it was the nickname of his nephew Jacques) to the couturier Marcel Rochas commissioning Femme as an exclusive wedding present for his great beauty of a young bride, which proved to be such a short-lived exclusive that the following year he launched it publicly...

And cut into the modern classic that is Angel, commissioned to smell like the "the caramel scent of sugared apples, the sugary notes of candy floss and the smell of the fun fair" by Strasbourg-born Thierry Mugler. (You can read an interesting article brought to my attention on the gourmand scents mentioning this byclicking here).
Or even the references made by consumers when they talk about a favourite or just plain hip of-the-moment perfume they have fallen for: Remember how Madona in the mid-90s talked about how she chose Fracas, among many others, because it reminded her of her dearly beloved mother who used to wear it, just when the whole chic crowd was rediscovering this forgotten classic and had similar stories to recount?

Perfume needs a tale behind it to sell, it seems. Every single one of the classics has a tale behind it. Every single one of those tales has some element of fantasy. It has to, because perfume seems to be aspirational: people want to buy into a fairy tale, an illusion, a flight of fancy that would make them feel happier, more elegant, more glamorous, more alluring, certainly more attractive. At its basest level perfume is used as an element of attraction. There is an inordinate amount of questions on which perfume would draw in more people of the opposite sex on perfume fora. It practically pops up every day. It also makes column inches in advertorials and articles in the press, especially when it's time for the mega-launches before the Christmas season.

However, perfume also serves other purposes: it signals a certain persona behind it (and this is not used in the Bergman sense) that is projected through the use of something upscale as an emblem of wealth, societal status, taste and cultivation. This is the reason why when giving gifts of perfume of brands that are considered upscale the face of the recipient lights up significantly more than when presenting them with an equal -monetarily speaking- offering of an unknown brand. They feel like they "belong" and that they are validated when presented with said offering, same as when they whip up the credit card to do it themselves. And people mostly want to "belong".

A variation of the latter nevertheless is the undisciplined spirit of people who want to be perceived as breaking the mould, as forming their own individual fashions and opting for something that would set them apart. In a world that is crammed with people smelling the same, the olfactory ID of a different scent acts much like the shoulderpads of the 80s, creating a little distance and hauteur that allows people to mark their own territory. And this is where the ever expanding market of "niche" perfumes falls. Based on the premise that limited ditribution creates exclusivity and that limited advertising saves money for better-quality ingredients, accounting for a better effect, as well as some leeway of an artistic vision that is not as aysterely restrained by "suits" in marketing boards, niche brands opt to play the game by their own rules.
But that is not meant to imply that they do not engage in their own literature of fantasy. Ambre Sultan is supposed to have been inspired by lumps of vegetal amber found in Moroccan souks and served as an inspiration to Lutens to come up with a perfume that has become infamous due to its perceived naughty undertones that to some smell like lady bits. Or think how Annick Goutal reading "Memoirs of Hadrian" by M.Yourcenar envisioned the young philosopher emperor smelling like a crystalline mix of Sicilian lemons and cypress resulting in Eau d'Hadrien. Or yet the very romantic tale of Antonia Ballanca Mahoney recounting the story of her grandfather and a Sicilian song named Tiempe Passate (=time passes) that served as the inspiration behind the homonymous fragrance of austere cedar and powdery orris.

Are those new tales true? I guess it doesn't matter too much. And sceptical readers will have already drawn their conclusions. But it's nice while they last. In a pedantic world they help us dream a bit.


Pic is from the film "Lady in the water", a fairy tale about how fairy tales might help us; courtesy of athinorama.gr

The experiment that puts an itchy rash on the buttocks of science

Reading through other people's thoughts and experiences sometimes reverts you to your own. I was browsing though Andy Tauer's blog, reading about how he was subjected to a series of theater commercials prior to watching "The Manchurian Candidate" and how "Axe reduces women to helpless perfume victims".

With his usual candour and grace he commented:

In a sense, Axe (=Lynx) is very honest about things. Some of us dream this dream of fragrances as a pheromone bomb. Well,…forget it. I would rather recommend (if at all) looking at fragrances as aphrodisiac. But wait, maybe I am wrong and my skin is just too cheesy to lead to an Axe effect. hmmm…I never was a perfume victim so far.

Which brought me to my own thoughts on this. I was watching the completely bonkers and terrifically entertaining British TV show "Brainiac" the other day and ~lo and behold!~ there they were trying to examine just what power olfaction has in sexual attraction. For those unfamilliar with the show (self-consiously tagged "science abuse") I have to say that they take science (proper, good old-fashioned science if you can believe it) and mix it up really well in a blender of dry wit, British sarcasm and crazy ideas that involve blowing up sausages to make a quick breakfast with pyrotechnics, using rollers and wheel armchairs equipped with carbon dioxide propellants to examine which one is faster, pub experiments that would probably earn you banishment from all pubs in the future and other similar assorted brilliant ideas. Ah...the British wit!

To revert to this particular experiment, however, it entailed this concept: one pretty girl was blindfolded and told to pick between three unknown to her candidates (specimen was more likely, but more on that later) for a date, based only on their smell. Sounds "scientific" enough (enter sarcasm), even though we're just dealing with one girl, let's not forget...
As we, the passive audience, browsed through the candidates we witnessed an ugly chap with very bad teeth (is this still prevalent in Britain, I wonder? I though it was an Austin Powers 60s touch...) drenched in synthetic pheromone (androstenone to be exact). Places to be sprayed: armpits, neck, chest and...crotch.
The second one was an otherwise likable midget who had to be placed on a stool as to not betray his being vertically challenged. He was wearing a commonly used unspecified aftershave, per the commentator.
The third one was the complete antithesis of the other two physically, as he looked as if he had stepped out of a Men's Health editorial: all bulging biceps and pecs, clean cut and shaved torso, nice looking mug, if not great. This one was directed to indulge into assorted gymnastics so he could build a good sweat (clean sweat of a recently bathed body, we presume...but no guarantees).

After this short demonstration the pretty blonde entered the scene and proceeded to sniff (but not sratch!) all of them one by one.
I know most of you are waiting wondering whom she did pick in the end.
Well, it ain't what you think it was......
The first one she proclaimed to be smelling of stale beer and quite drunk! (save those bucks, guys, on getting that miraculous pheromone!) The second one she said smelled nice. About the third one (which for some perverse reason I thought stood the most chances) she turned her nose up and proclaimed he smelled dirty. (maybe that lack of recent bath, there???)
So, imagine her surprise when they took off the blindfold to see that the exquisitely scented specimen was the midget with the common aftershave.

Axe/Lynx (the latter is the british brand name under which this circulates) must be on to something...To witness watch their hilarious sexist clips of their brilliantly conceived campaigns.
Click the screen

or go here.



or go here.


Personally I think Axe/Lynx is the stuff of the devil, olfactory speaking, but who said the Dark Prince doesn't have his own cheesy appeal?



Pic courtesy of Sakopetra.com
Clips courtesy of Youtube.

A scent for the famous on their wedding day?

Perfume Shrine in its toddler steps started as a modest guide of what celebrity prefers which scent. It was early days and compiling a list had been going on for years. Although it was meant as fun, it was also a great marketing research tool, since audiences are usually mesmerised by what the rich and famous opt for. The list got expanded into a website, the website into a perfume blog and the rest is history...for what it's worth.

So seeing that Eva Longoria, 32, the sexy brunette Latina of the Desperate Housewives Tv show stardom got married in Paris the other day to her sweetheart NBA champion Tony Parker, the question of what she opted for the big day rose once again.
It's not unusual for a bride to be to ponder on which scent to pick for the grand day among other concerns. After all, smell has such a way of imprinting itself in out mind like the fingerprint of a guilty party, that it is only natural we want the guilt to be as pleasurable as possible.

The sartorial choice was a double affair: since french law requires a civil ceremony by the french mayor before the religious one, the bride opted for two dresses on the two seperate occasions ~ a Chanel mini dress in pink and a white short dress.

According to my sources she is a white floral girl who loves her Kai and her Fleurs d'oranger and indeed I could picture her in those admirably, suiting her sexy persona and her lush features with their fresh yet soft and inviting smell.
She is also reputedly tied to the Desperate Wives perfume project, Forbidden Fruit, along with the other actresses who appear on the show (Terri Hatcher, Marcia Cross, Felicity hoffman, and Nicolette Sheridan), but somehow this strikes me as highly improbable. Think about it: do you share your fragrance with just about all the people you work with? Even if they are completely different types of people? Even if that perfume is free and inexhaustible because... hey, your pretty face is fronting it?
Sounds like marketing to me...And not that successful either.
Forbidden Fruit is reportedly not as potently fruity as surmised by the name, but rather veers into fruity floriental nuances containing notes of Rome apples, orange blossom, peach, wisteria, jasmine, ylang-ylang, passion lily, cedarwood, sandalwood, vanilla and tonka bean. The notes do denote an intense floral presence.

However, like I said, I envision her in something more unique and in tune with her personality even if her lunch at Coco Chanel 's own old private studio which is quite a rare occassion not too many have participated in before would point to a Chanel perfume freebie: maybe one of the new Les Exclusifs?
(full reviews and an opinion article click here: Eau de Cologne, no.18 , 31 Rue Cambon review, Coromandel, Bel Respiro and 28 la Pausa).

I'd love to have been able to catch a whiff of what she chose in any case. Would you? And what do you imagine would be the perfect choice for her Parisian wedding? Or for any wedding, come to think of it?



Pic of Eva Longoria courtesy of Thesuperficial.com
Kai bottle pic courtesy of sporkfashion.com