Twin Peaks: Iris Poudre, UDV Pour Elle, Ferre by Ferre

As improbable as some comparisons seem, like say contrasting a beaming, shinning Mercedes KLC to a tiny compact Smart, sometimes they hit the nail on the head: both cars are made by the same makers. There are of course countless details that separate them, but they are equally attended to for standards of quality.
Which brings us to our improbable theme today: The augustus scent of Iris Poudre by Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle side by side to the lowly and humble Ulric de Varens Pour Elle.

Iris Poudre needs no introduction, really. Although I haven't reviewed it in full yet, it is probably my favourite within the confines of this much esteemed niche brand that caters to the tastes of perfumephiles and perfumers both: The former because they can sample the vision of some of the best noses of our days with trully good ingredients. The latter because they are at last given free reign to do what they had always wanted to do but couldn't, due to commercial restrictions.
Iris Poudre was created by Pierre Bourdon, one of the finest noses in the field. Frédéric Malle professes that "if it were a garment, it would be a cashmere sweater - classic but personal, appropriate for most occasions, something one never tires of". Although touted to be a grand floral aldehydic, to me it has no distinct relation to aldehydic fragrances that people perceive as typical of their classification, such as Chanel No.5, Madame Rochas or Arpège. It is subtler and less sparkly, more powdery. However it does have touches of the cool allure and rosiness of Rive Gauche or Calandre, both scents with a beautiful coolness contrasted with a little warmth in the base. Iris Poudre utilises the caramel butteriness of tonka bean, the cosiness of musks and just a hint of fluffy vanilla to instill that faint warmth that surrounds you like a precious pashmina on a chilly evening on a walk back from the theatre or an art exhibit.

Ulric de Varens is a french brand founded in 1982 that features in the mainstream and lower end of distribution, appearing in what the Americans call "the drugstore". Apart from the eponymous line, they also produce the Lily Prune line and the Jacques de Saint Prez line. And yet their offerings are often surprisingly good: their Patchouli Chic was one of the better scents to feature that note by popular vote, their Sublime Vanille and also their Ulric Fun are composed by none other than Jean Claude Ellena, their UDV Men is composed by Maurice Roucel. Coincidentally two of the bright stars in the gallaxy of F.Malle. You get the drift...

Ulric de Varens Pour Elle also known as UDV, came out in 1999. It is a delicate, powdery floral with the merest hint of woody sweetness in the base. According to the official press release:

Pour Elle contains pear, finely supported by the king accord of Rose, Jasmine and Lily of the Valley, with a layer of sensual, bewitching white musks which open up thanks to precious woods and sweet scents of Vanilla.

Although it is advertised as a fruity, musky floral, to my nose there is no really discernible fruity element and the predominent impression is that of the smooth powdery accord of iris. The impression is quite realistic. Which in itself might be a good indicator of what is an industry secret: that lots of perfumes that claim iris notes construct the acccord with synthetic molecules and not the dearly costly rhizomes of the Florentine variety.
There is really no discernible rose or jasmine per se, but rather the hazy impression of a floral bouquet dusted with air-spun powder and a little icing sugar. It smells ivory, betraying the pink shade of the juice itself. There is a soft, caressing, cosy quality about the musks used and a little woodiness. The whole is very feminine and smells much more expensive than anticipated. Contrasted to Iris Poudre it shares much in the beginning stage, when both diffuse with little puffs of liquid snow. It then warms up, somewhat more pronounced than Iris Poudre and with a sweeter drydown phase which is perhaps its shortcoming side by side with the aristocratic dryness of the Malle fragrance. The latter is simply rootier, earthier, with a slight nod to Iris Silver Mist by Lutens or Hiris by Hermès.

UDV’s whimsical and rather kitchy little purse bottle (the spray is atop the upper part of the "bag" part) in a horrible plastic case might have better served a teenager's budding boudoir rather than my more somber vaults, but it will have to pass. As it is, it is an indulgence one can spray with abandon and toss with no regrets when it eventually spoils.

Ulric de Varens Pour Elle can be found in the drugstore as well as online stores and comes in:
- Eau de parfum 30 et 75 ml
- Déodorant Spray Parfumant 125 ml
- Coffret EDP 75 ML + Déo 125 ml
- Coffret EDP 75 ml + Body lotion 75 ml

Addition:
Ferre by Ferre is another fragrance that I got round smelling prompted by my readers and found out that it has numerous similarities to Iris Poudre, indeed: in fact this is not so strange, as they were both created by the same perfumer, the great Pierre Bourdon. They do smell almost identical, if you lean a little on both, with perhaps the possible exception that Iris Poudre has a slightly more metallic finish in its development that is more distinctive and a little aloof, with an aldehydic tinge perceptible. The lasting power is comparable.
However, for those of you who cannot get Iris Poudre easily, Ferre by Ferre is a great alternative and with a much more respectable-looking, architectural bottle than UDV pour Elle .

Twins by Dianne Arbus courtesy of Transindex. Pic of Ulric de Varens Pour Elle bottle from the official site. Pic of Vogue cover from 1950 by Jeannie Pattchet from allposters.

Twin peaks: Lauder Pleasures Delight & Mugler Innocent

In the realm of sweet scents, the consumer is spoiled for choice. There are literally hundreds of releases that focus in treating our taste buds, rather than our olfactory centers, luring us in with the promise of a pampering, homely and seductive aroma. Estee Lauder, after the very successful launch of Pure White Linen, uses Gwyneth Paltrow again as their face for a spin on their Pleasures scent: one of many spins, if we count Pleasures Intense and Pleasure Exotic and the limited editions that roll out every season.


According to the Pleasures Delight press release by Estee Lauder:

"Life is sweet. Treat yourself to something delicious... a playful side of pleasures that's simply irresistible. This floral confection blends notes of juicy pomegranate, whipped strawberry meringue and tempting caramel with a sprinkling of sugared rose petals, dewy freesia, white peony and fresh greens. How can you resist?"

The fragrance is a

"floral gourmand confection blending juicy fruits, tangy citrus and irresistible desserts and sweets".

The fragrance is indeed quite pleasing: creamy, rich, sweet predictably, but not nauseating, with a tangy bite, with very good staying power. However it is not distinctive enough in a market that is saturated with similar offerings. Still it is a decent example of this genre of gourmand perfumery and the clean, sweetish patchouli in the base makes for a sensual perfume. I can sense the caramely sweetness that has a tinge of powdery vanillic softness, but no floral elements per se. It leaves a velvety trail behind which accounts for much of its pleasant effect. Although the official notes are not that close to Innocent by Thierry Mugler, upon smelling it this is the impression I got, me being a long time fan of the latter.

The notes of Pleasures Delight encompass:
pomegranate, fresh greens, freesia, whipped strawberry meringue, peony, lily, muguet, heliotrope, sugared rose petals, caramel, marshmallow, vanilla, patchouli.
Pleasures Delight comes in 50 and 100 ml Eau de Parfum and a complimentary body lotion and shower gel, available at major department stores.


Innocent by Thierry Migler came out in 1998, as their first "variation" on Angel. It first came in an canister like that of deodorant sprays, but the company soon realised it did the scent a disservice and they opted for the bluish column with the star cap you see for their eau de parfum.
According to Amazon, it is a "Mystic, Flowery and Fresh Fragrance". I think it's neither, but anyway. To me it is a comfort scent with a potent vibe of slightly burnt meringues laced with glazed, tart fruits oozing caramely goodness. If you are familiar with those sugared almond-shaped chocolates coated with pastel colours of hardened glaze that people put into the wedding and christening little pouches for the guests, this is quite close and very delectable with a slightly bitter edge.
Innocent also has a sparkly quality right ahead that makes an impression to anyone in proximity and retains its message for hours. It's especially good on clothes and stays true for days. In fact it is one of the scents that has consistently earned me compliments from men, belying its name of cherubic nuances. It turns heads in a good way and it is a bit less ubiquitous than Angel, which has become a very recognisable smell due to its huge popularity.

If I were pondering on which of the two scents to choose, Pleasures Delight or Innocent, I would go with my firm favourite: not because of any fault of the former, but rather because since something has already been done, it's worth perservering to one's first choice. It stands for character. Or so I tell myself...

Notes for Innocent:
Top notes: bergamot, mandarin, helional.
Heart notes: honey, dewberry, black currant, passion fruit.
Base notes: sugar almonds, meringue, amber, musk

Pic of twins by Diane Arbus via Transidex. Pic of Innocent bottle from aromatic, pic from Lauder campaign from the official site

Twin Peaks ~Barbara Bui Le parfum & Rykiel Woman-not for men!

When Barbara Bui had first released her boutique-exclusive scent Le Parfum, little did I know of it. In fact if I am to be completely honest I admit I had been oblivious to its very existence up until a short while before its discontinuation. You can call this DPSS: Delayed Perfume Sniffing Syndrome. It’s the thing that happens when you delay to test something only to discover with dismay that you like it well enough when it is too late to purchase some in a relatively easy way that doesn’t involve jumping through hoops.

Le Parfum was a beautiful scent. It’s also sadly discontinued. You have to hunt the auctions to get it. Why this happened is a mystery worth of a Ruth Rendel denouement. But happily there is a comparable perfume that although not exactly a copycat or dupe, it possesses the best characteristics of Barbara Bui’s fragrance for those who enjoyed it and in my humble opinion it is even better in some ways to it. It’s no coincidence that both were composed by nose Anne Flipo (of L’artisan La Chasse aux Papillons fame). Perfume Shrine had been the first one to report this on the ever popular Makeupalley site back in the beginning of 2006.
I am referring of course to Sonia Rykiel Woman-not for men! Yes, the exclamation point is there on purpose, it’s not intended to be a comment on the writer’s part. I guess the makers want to emphasize that it is a feminine potion and bet on the alluring vibe this has on the female sensibility. At this point it is important to note that the comparison is for the original Eau de parfum concentration in the purple and black bottle, cap with bronze studs like the hardware of a trendy it-bag, because the newer eau de toilette in the pink bottle is a completely different scent that is veering more to the fruity floral way to perdition. Personally I have come to expect a lot from Sonia Rykiel and the latter interpretation left me a little bit disappointed. As did Belle en Rykiel {click for review} up to a certain extent; which is a decent scent that does not commit the cardinal sin of smelling like a myriad other things. Perhaps I was a bit demanding. Anyway... Rykiel Woman-not for men! in the eau de parfum concentration has really captured a soft spot in my heart that is hard for other contestants to shake.

Barbara Bui Le Parfum is creamier, focusing on the inherent smoothness of sandalwood that smothers the smoky incense note, rendering it warm and powdery soft, the complete antithesis of churchy smell that usually gets associated with incense. The sweet vanillic aroma of heliotropin rounds out the base. This is a fragrance for the boudoir, a tight microfiber teddy over an ample bosom, much like another soft smoky specimen, the indomitable Fifi, although there we have a blond tobacco smoking bombshell in textured lace. Despite the official proclaiming of Bui containing undefined spices, I do not detect much of any but rather a citrusy top.

In contrast, Rykiel Woman-not for men! opens with the piquant pink pepper note that has proven to be an early 2000s mega success as it is used in many compositions lending them its contrasting cool-warm palette that serves to bring to focus the rest of the composition as a counterpoint; pink pepper is a bit rosy, which makes it subtler than the regular varieties of black or white pepper. Pepper in general is a fascinating note that may make or ruin a scent, due to its sheer potency.

But like Mae West when it’s good it’s very, very good and when it’s bad it’s even better! Meaning when pronounced it has the ability to grab you by the nose and make you pay attention. In tandem with the leathery/oud and musky fond surfacing pretty soon, Rykiel Woman-not for men! smells a little rougher than its sister scent. But perhaps this is why I love it so! The leathery/suede note is completely modern, recalling neither the classic Cuir de Russie versions with their tarry aspect, nor the Spanish leathers of intense pungency and spiciness. It is smooth and nubuck-like-soft, making it extremely wearable. As the perfume dries down softness and restrained sweetness surface, bringing it closer to Barbara Bui, especially in its incense smokiness with a hay-like powderiness. It stays like this on skin for hours, bringing forth all kind of compliments from “you smell goooood” to naughty winks.
Grab it now before they discontinue it too!

Barbara Bui Le Parfum notes:
spices, incense, jasmine, musk, amber, sandalwood, heliotrope, cedar.
Rykiel Woman-not for men (EDP) notes:
pink pepper, violet, date, jasmine petals, Bulgarian rose, black pepper, olibanum, agarwood, leather, amber.

Sonia's Rykiel Woman-not for men! is available from major department stores and online.


More surprises and exciting features on the Shrine coming up soon!!

Pic of twins by Diane Arbus via Transidex. Pic of Barbara Bui from their site. Pic of Rykiel Woman from escentual

Twin peaks~Aromatics Elixir and Earth by Apivita

Perfume Shrine is introducing a new feature: Twin Peaks.
Lynch inpired but lynch-free for the fragrances it aims to juxtapose and compare highlighting their similarities and kindred spirits.
I sure hope you enjoy finding some smell-alikes for things you were either scared of, unsure of, broke for or just bored to go hunting down following their lamented discontinuation.



The first duo on this feature is Aromatics Elixir (which has already been reviewed the other day here) and Earth by Apivita.

Apivita is an old Greek brand, founded in 1979 which goes

"back to a small pharmacy, owned by Niki and Nikos Koutsianas. Being both passionately fond of natural products and having great respect for Classical Greek philosophy, they created a line of soaps and shampoos based on bee products: honey, propolis, royal jelly and bee pollen. Their first brand, Dermoline, later named Propoline"

The brand quickly flourished thanks to their natural approach that utilised the best products of the rich Greek flora and of bees. "Api" stads for the api-doings they use in their excellent products and "vita" means of course life. Life through the workmanship of bees, then! Not a bad idea from a biological standpoint.
Today they are a leading brand on natural based products and aromatherapy offerings, focusing on the use of top quality essential oils and encompassing many different categories for the care of face, body, hair, pregnancy, babies, health and balance as well as aromatheurapetic and fragrant products. (You can visit their site here).

It was the latter that caught on in the eyes of the american public through the immense success of their Euphoria line: a fragrant eau de toilette, shower gel, body lotion and body scrub with notes of ylang ylang, vanilla and white chocolate that melted under your hands and hypnotised the senses.

And then recently they came out with a series of "soli-scents" (for lack of a better word) that focus on one respective element using natural essences as much as possible, for which they have already become well respected, but with a certain depth and complexity in the simple ideas laid out as well.

Of those 7 scents, Earth was the one that immediately caught my fancy, although I liked others as well, Jasmine being another one.
The familiar tang of relation to something old and enjoyed from afar dawned on me and I realised this is the younger, more wearable version of Aromatics Elixir.
Earth shares many common notes with the afore mentioned Clinique fragrance as well as the concept of aromatheurapeutic effect on the psyche. It is even advertised as having a positive energy surrounding it that you might want to share with the world.

Its intense patchouli base allied to sandalwood is unmistakeable and accounts for much of the impression it gives me of being close to Aromatics Elixir. Rosewood and a floral heart of ylang ylang add some airy, slightly soapy element whereas a mix of spices -of which clove bud is listed but I perceive many- and bitter mossy touches render the whole into a composition that transports one into a sensual realm of power and desire.
Because the company uses the mythological reference of Hera and talks about fertility (a Goddess concept to be sure) and because the cinematic associations with Excalibur were still fresh in my memory from the other day, I thought the clip below wasn't very far off from what I perceive it in my mind to convey.


(uploaded by rottenweasel on youtube)

If Aromatics Elixir is akin to the darker, bewitching powers of Morgana Le Fey, the scent of a villaness, Earth is simpler and unaffected, reflecting the innocence of the youth of Igrayne and her fertile womb, soon to carry the seed that would culminate in a legend. The dance sequence from the film is indicative of the slightly submissive stance that Igrayne takes to her husband and yet there is desire, ecstacy and lust in her movements that prompts Uther to his utterances despite the severe cost he would pay.
What the clip doesn't show is Uther, animated by highly charismatic Gabriel Byrne, literally spits at the end of the challenge by Igrayne's husband, ready to break the alliance and siege the castle.
I am not sure whether men would literally fight for a woman wearing Earth ,minus the skimmed-milk complexion and strawberry blonde tresses of Katrine Boorman, but I guess it doesn't hurt to try!

You can find Earth by Apivita at b-glowing and Amazon. There is a bigger 50ml/1.7oz glass bottle and a smaller 10ml/0.3oz bottle that is very cute and practical for your purse or travel.

Pic of twins by Diane Arbus via Transidex. Pic of Earth bottle courtesy of b-glowing.