The Year of Chanel?

2009 has been in many fragrant ways so far a marked year for Chanel, due to their 100th anniversary: what with the new Chanel No.5 campaign which prompted us into an images retrospective, the new Cristalle Eau Verte and the wider distribution of Les Exclusifs Beige online. But it's shaping up to also be a heavily charged optical year for them as well!



The famous photographer Douglas Kirkland was commissioned in summer 1962 by Look Magazine to follow and photograph Gabrielle Chanel for a story on her. Initially sceptical, later enthusiastic, Chanel posed for a series of classic photos that are now shown in a rare exhibition between May 9 to June 6 (Mon-Sun 11am-7pm) on the third floor/ VIP Salon of the Honolulu Chanel Boutique in Hawaii (2116 Kalakaua Avenue), curated by James Cavello of Westwood Gallery, NYC. The choice isn't random: The Honolulu boutique, celebrating its 25th anniversary this year, was the first Chanel boutique to open on American soil. The special occasion will be marked by an exclusive preview display of the Paris-Moscou collection and the creation of a limited edition J12 white watch with blue sapphires. 10%of the proceeds from photo purchases will be donated to the Hawaii Children's Cancer Foundation. So if you happen to be on Hawaii in the course of the month, you know what to do.

For those ~like me~ who appreciate the artistry of a good arts coffee-table book in all its glossy paper glory, a new issue is celebrating Coco Chanel, the myth, as well: Called Mademoiselle Coco Chanel Summer 62, it is written by Karl Lagerfeld and featuring the photos of Douglas Kirkland taken in the summer of 1962, as decribed above. Soon widely available. You can pre-order through Amazon!



Additionally, Chéri, the novel by Colette (written in 1920) recently filmed starring Michelle Pfeifer and Rupert Friend, has been one of Karl Lagerfeld's much prized books. Thus it formed the inspiration behind the photography behind the 2009 Spring Summer Accesories Catalogue for Chanel. The novel describes the love affair between an older former courtesan, Léa de Lonval, and her younger lover, Fred Peloux (affectionately called "chéri", ie.sweetheart) to whom she passes all her experience only to be disillusioned when he ultimately abandons her to marry the very young daughter of one of his mother's friends. The two lovers are incarnated in the campaign by Jerry Hall and Baptiste Giabiconi, shot by Karl Lagerfeld. The social mores of La Belle Epoque, known to Mademoiselle Chanel herself, are beautifully illustrated, none the less so in these exclusive images for Chanel.



And a funny interlap for the grand finale: The face of the upcoming Guerlain feminine fragrance, Idylle, singer and actress Nora Arnezeder, has been photographed by Karl Lagerfeld himself for the May issue of American Elle magazine in a story called "Karl's Diary", from where this dreamy black & white photo.



Related reading on Perfumeshrine: Two biopics on Coco Chanel, Interrupted by Death: The Lost Chanel, Chanel Les Exclusifs

Blunda's Natural Perfume Exhibitions

I got sent some interesting news for those who watch the all-naturals front of perfumery and are interested in attending exhibitions and workshops that include or focus on them.

"This weekend, March 28, open an 8-month long series featuring 8 perfumers and their olfactory art at this unique perfume studio at the heart of Los Angeles. Blunda's Natural Perfume Exhibitions open this weekend with Laurie Stern of Velvet & Sweetpea's Purrfumerry. Laurie's perfumes are cruelty free and made of botanical essences only (except for bee products) and are phthalate free". Spaces are extremely limited, so please RSVP by via email with the title "RSVP for Perfume Exhibition #1 March 28, 2009" and number of people participating or by calling (323) 658-750.
Next Exhibition: April 18th, 1-5pm – with Ayala Moriel. We will come back with news when that materializes.

Esxence: first olfactory exhibition by perfumers

April 2 marks the opening of the round table discussion "Perfumers speak" (at 11:30), part of the exhibition Esxence, which will take place in Milan, Italy from 2nd April though 5th April 2009. Esxence is the the first professional fair show dedicated to niche perfumery tagged "The Scent of Excellence" hosted at Spazio Pelota, Via Palermo 10 in Brera, the artistic centre of Milan.
Professional noses of French, Italian and British origins will be upfront with the public, granting them a glimpse into the secret cosmos of the fragrance industry, allowing them to see a bit of the Science and the Art of perfumery, the originality and passion that drives them. According to the official info:

"In Italy the art perfumery has gained a relevant dimension not only in terms of revenues generated but also in terms of number of dedicated retailers. The innovative distribution approach that has been developed and adopted by the Italian market in the last few years has attracted the attention of many international operators. The quality and excellence involved in this market are what make it at the same time vital and respectful of traditions, in addition to being highly responsive to new ideas that may flow against the current. Esxence is created to be an international house, a place where opinions meet along with experiences, proposals, provocations and know-how. Esxence will host main firms, Italian and international distributors that will support the firms, along with the press, buyers, Italian and international retailers".

Mark Buxton and Stéphane Humbert Lucas, prolific creators in the service of numerous niche brands (let me remind you of Comme des Garcons), Erwin Creed, descendent of the famous Creed dynasty and on the helm of the historical house, as well as Lorenzo Villoresi, the well-known Florentine creator with his own line of artisanal fragances, will all participate. Sebastian Fischenich and Tobias Mueksch will be the protagonists in the "Theater of emotions" project on Friday April 3, at 14:30 as well as Antoine Vuillermet, perfumer for the Breton brand Lostmarc’h.


Last but not least on Friday April 3 at via Brera n.6 there is also the public presentation by Pierre Guillaume, creator of Parfumerie Generale, of his newest L’Eau Guerrière, belonging to “Collection Privée”.

The list of participating brands can be seen here. Admission is by invitation only, but you can download the invitation on this link.

For information call: +39 02-72023334
Click for map of centre Pelote via Google Maps

Pic of M.Buxton via Elternhaus and of Guillaume via Pafumerie Generalle.