Manos Gerakinis Parfums Sillage X: fragrance review

 Not coincidentally, the new Sillage X commemorates the 10th anniversary of the Greek niche brand founded by Manos Gerakinis as a project that is destined for a customer pursuing the refined things in life and the greatest luxury of them all: time. This is why Manos Gerakinis divulged to me in an interview that he takes his time to develop his fragrances; he doesn't rush to cater to the latest trend because he knows it will look like a quick grab and no soul, destined to not last. 

Created to celebrate the 10th anniversary of Manos Gerakinis Parfums, Sillage X is a thoughtful yet positively joyful olfactive reflection on the passage of time and what remains timeless. 

Although Sillage X is presented as a predominantly vetiver scent, it does not project as one. It is neither green nor fresh in the sense of all those summer vetivers that have been linked to airy and crunchy smellscapes, as classical as Guerlain's Vetiver and Carven's Vetiver. The citruses do burst like angels from the skies to sing their bright message of joy, but the fragrance soon turns into something different than a cologne. It's a thing of its own, terpenic, dry, delicious, and woody-spicy— a sillage that is leaving a trail of mystery behind it. Tempered but still substantial, smooth yet also somewhat durable. 

The main delectable note is black pepper (piper negrum), a note that the wide public is biased against, mainly because when they read "pepper," they're equating the smell with the flavor and fear things that make people around them sneeze. Of course, no such thing is true, either of the oil (which I love!) nor of the generous use of it in the formula of Sillage X. The spiciness is just right, balancing the citruses on top and giving that delicious durability to the heart, which grows out in the iris direction; starchy, earthy, nicely rounded and yet fresh too, reminiscent of juniper and cedarwood. Black pepper has the great quality to bring into focus elements that would otherwise recede to the background, and in Sillage X, this is eminently showcased. As my colleague Mat wrote about another instance, "In order to make a full-bodied black pepper aroma, you have to "extend" it by something weighty. In this case, the perfumer chose to do it with the help of various woods. Coming in second in importance, the note of cedar, dry, coniferous, and woody, peeks out soon enough and supports the savory theme of black pepper recalling cedar nuts, cutting board, and juniper wood trivets." 

If you're wary of fennel, on the other hand, rest assured that its touch of anethole is discreet here; there's no risk of you smelling of pastis. On the contrary, allied to the other spicy components, it brings on a degustation balance, the calm and serenity of a great dinner—all things in good order and in measured portions. 

Sillage X (2024)

perfumer: Vasiliki Psatha

Top notes: Bergamot, Lemon, Mandarin

Heart notes: Vetiver, Black Pepper, Cardamom, Fennel Seed

Base notes: Cedar, Moss, Patchouli

Estee Lauder Sensuous Noir: fragrance review

This discontinued gem is shining in a deep purple bottle of sumptuous line that would match a wonderful smoky eye that looks so at ease on an autumnal night out. Sensuous Noir takes the good parts of Lauder's Sensuous (that idea of woody notes enhancing the natural scent of the skin) and taking it up a notch, adding patchouli with its dark sweetness interlaced like a shadow on said skin. More voluptuous, more intense, more sensual than the original version of Sensuous, the second version by Estee Lauder - Sensuous Noir includes characteristic wooden tones, an abstract floral hint and soft aromas of cozy oriental balsams that carry the entire composition.

Sensuous Noir has a stronger, more intoxicating and more seductive scent than the prior fragrance by Estee Lauder with half the same name, although the latter is also quite sensuous and silky and worth your time and money.

The top notes include a floral blend of purple rose, jasmine, rose oil, black pepper and spices. The heart focuses on the warm wooden notes, typical for this scent, with the use of the innovative Nature Print technology. The smell of "dissolved wood" in the concept, generated by pine tree and guaiac wood merging, was captured exactly by this technology, and used as a seductive note that was first used as a sensory note and complemented by the innovative Noir cream, lily flowers and patchouli notes. The base notes include benzoin, amber and soft vanilla with an amber overall scent. The final feeling is one of absolute self-confidence!


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