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Thursday, May 12, 2016

Viktoria Minya Hedonist Cassis: fragrance review

The fallen berries that get smashed and mushed underfoot reflect something of the realization of so much waste around us that even useful, succulent things fall to their unintentional demise through a drive that obeys cosmic rules; gravity, fall, squish. Hedonist Cassis by young but talented perfumer Viktoria Minya is certainly not wasteful, bring the tang of blackcurrant and grapefruit into the core chord of Hedonist, her original creation, making for an intense experience that recalls gathering berries in the countryside waiting for mr.Fox.

hello mr.fox on flickr, via Pinterest


Viktoria Minya has indulged her original composition with a cluster of variations, each highlighting a separate ingredient, Iris, Rose, and Cassis. The latest, Hedonist Cassis, possibly comes in the most attractive bottle, purple-ish with a touch of the late Prince, if you will.

Berry fragrances probably owe their heritage to the cult best-seller by L'Artisan Parfumeur, the original "berry" which spawned a hundred offspring over the decades since its inception.
The composition here however reminds me much more of the appeal of Yves Saint Laurent In Love Again (a combo of grapefruit and blackcurrant) by perfumer Jean Claude Ellena and doesn't fail to make me smile. The rose note is reminiscent of the chord in L'Ombre dans l'Eau by Diptyque; if like me you tend to shy away from overly prim, Jane Austen roses, and appreciate instead the tang that blackcurrants give to the above mentioned Diptyque fragrance, then Hedonist Cassis is sure to hit you with the epiphany of "oh, there's rose in it". Yes, but oh so delicious.

I am reminded of inconsequential things that have to do with late summer: the droning sound of the bees, the lazy contours of the calamus in the distance, the gentle softening of the sky as dusk sets in lilac hues; refreshing juice full of sour and sweet citruses served on the balcony and the canopy shading the rays while we're reading L'Education Sentimentale, the heroes leaping off the page in their game of social graces, platonic loves and carnal disgraces; freckles slowly forming on a long hellenic nose and lashes prettily faning on a smooth cheek, the comfortable silence of well trodden territory.


Extraordinary lasting power in Heodnist Cassis is an added bonus. For those of you who love a tart synthesis with great balance between sweet and sour and a stonking beat of lasting musky-wood this is your fruity floral pick for summer wear.

Fragrance Notes for Viktoria Minya Hedonist Cassis:
Top notes are black currant, grapefruit and rhubarb;
middle notes are bulgarian rose, grass and cassis;
base notes are cedar and musk.

13 comments:

  1. Thank you so much for the review! I love berries in perfumes, but it appears that many of them turn artificial om my skin. Hedonist however deserves a try as I know other variations of it and they are gorgeous!

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    1. I think you should get a sample, then. :-)

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  2. I wasn't the biggest fan of hedonist but I can't remember why - perhaps it was too honeyed for me? That being said, I loooove blackberry and this sounds really lovely. Thanks for the review!

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    1. The original is indeed quite honeyed, rich and full bodied. This one is tarter, sharper, tangier.

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  3. Ooooo ... this sounds like something I would like Helg!!!

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    1. I bet you would! Great presentation too.

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    1. No more spamming or I'm reporting you to Google.

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  5. I can't wait to try this now, after reading your review!
    Jean

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  7. Miss Heliotrope03:31

    Not my favorite genre, but you make it sound very interesting. We've got enough foxes, though, thank you - one keeps leaving lumps of bone in our back garden & beating up the possums...

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    1. Ah....that's sad.

      Yes, it's a very nice tart fruity-blackcurrant-grapefruit-rose scent that one should try out if after that sort of thing.

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