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Thursday, January 20, 2011

Guerlain Les Parisiennes exclusive line: New Developments, Discontinuations & Look

Anyone who receives the Guerlain catalogue for the year has witnessed a change in one of the most acclaimed lines in the historic brand's portfolio, namely Les Parisiennes, the depository of the older creations by Jean-Paul Guerlain and other perfumers working for the brand, producing a range that is esteemed as refined luxury. A change which unfolds three ways: Two additions to the line (one ressurected from a limited edition of 10 years ago, the other slightly less), some discontinuations and a new look for the masculine side of the venerable stable.

To be specific...



Two additions in Guerlain "Les Parisiennes" boutique-only line (125 ml including removable atomizer for 180 €):

Nuit de Amour we had announced being re-issued and joining Les Parisiennes in the standard "bee bottle" instead of the original quadrilobe a while ago on this article. Now comes Cherry Blossom eau de toilette. Originally a limited edition from 2000 in the Louis XV flacon(seen above) that also housed Apres L'Ondee extrait, it was created for the sakura season that is celebrated in Japan. [There was also Cherry Blossom Delight from 1999]. The Guerlain fragrance included cherry blossom, green tea and lemon notes to honor the oriental tradition of lightness and happiness at the coming of spring. The re-issued fragrance was originally signed by Jean Paul Guerlain and is not to be confused with the Aqua Allegoria line's Cherry Blossom (pic when you click here), another interpretation of sakura complimented by a whole makeup collection by the same name issued in spring 2010 .

Two discontinuations in Guerlain "Les Parisiennes" boutique-only line:

Regarding Attrape Coeur (see its other incarnations on this page) we had broken the news on its being pulled off the plug a long while ago. Now that stocks have dried up, it's officially missing from the new 2011 catalogue. Sad...

The other fragrance regretably missing is Philtre d'Amour, which we also had hinted in perfume discussion online that it would be pulled off the market in the near future, the reason being its formula not being possible to conform to IFRA restrcitions (read more on those here).

Of course there is also the by now rare super-refined (chypre-smelling) Plus Que Jamais missing, but we knew that already.



A new look for the masculine "Les Parisiens" (100 ml for 175 €), now Les Exclusifs:

Joining the wooden "frame" of Arsène Lupin Dandy and Arsène Lupin Voyou (both in Eau de Parfum and described on this article), the masculine side of the exclusive line by Guerlain becomes homogenised in looks and stated as Les Exclusifs. The former members of Les Parisiennes intended for the delight of discerning gentlement now will not be featured in the dainty glass bottles with the boule cap and the bees but will come in the more virile-looking oblongs instead.
Thus the Guerlain Les Parisiennes line for men (or is it Les Parisiens?) will comprise:

*Derby (eau de toilette)
*Chamade pour Homme (eau de toilette)
*L'Âme d'un Héros eau de toilette (formerly known as Coriolan
*Arsène Lupin Dandy (eau de parfum) and
*Arsène Lupin Voyou (eau de parfum).

The price per ml is thus rather significantly raised (125 ml for 180€ for the feminine Les Parisiennes vs 100 ml for 175€ for the masculines), a feat not completely justified by the change in packaging I feel.

NB. The international site hasn't been renovated yet to reflect the changes.

A full review & draw for Arsène Lupin Dandy shortly!

8 comments:

  1. Fiordiligi17:22

    Hello, it's me! Thank you so much for this information as my catalogue from Paris hasn't arrived yet.

    I must say that my recent purchase of Nuit d'Amour has delighted me, but I'm not going to be standing in line for Cherry Blossom, which was originally created for the Japanese market.

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  2. I don't even want to ponder the loss of Attrape-Coeur. Not at all.

    Replaced by "Cherry Blossom?"

    Sigh.

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  3. Thanks very much for the handy summary.

    I must say I'm not crazy about the wooden bottles, but I don't really mind what the flacons look like if their contents are top notch... but that's a whole other debate...

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  4. I must admit that I struggle with Guerlain. Maybe my nose isn't refined enough? I so want to love a Guerlain, just one will do. I've bought one Guerlain: Champs Elysees but I didn't love it, I merely persvered through the bottle!

    But I do like the sound of the notes in Cherry Blossom. I have the Body Shop's Japanese Cherry Blossom. It was so popular when it first came out, it sold out in days and I had to wait for the second lot to arrive!

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  5. D,

    hello dearest!

    Missed replying to your mail (no need to apologise) as I had serious computer trouble these past few days. (Long story...phew)

    Anyway, you're welcome. I find that some of the discontinuations are heart-breaking (Plus que Jamais!! Attrape Coeur!! Philtre d'Amour!! Why does it have to be everything I love???) while I can't say I am super-excited about the new releases, but who knows? They might warm our hearts all the same *crossing fingers* Nuit d'Amour is a bit sweet in a fruity way for me. I know you liked it though, so it's got to have something going for it.

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  6. S,

    sighing alongside you...

    Nah, wait, let's not be unjust, there was also a Shimmering Cherry blossom version I recall. *evil chuckle*

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  7. P,

    I believe the wooden bottles are supposed to denote a more virile look but also a sense of "craftmanship", a home-made feel (wood being warmer than glass). Then again, the marketing team sees it as a move into incorporating the new with the (remaining) old, thus progressing the change seamlessly.

    You're welcome and thanks for commenting!

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  8. Audit,

    glad to see you here! How are things?

    Taking in acount your recs previously, I think you have a rather refined nose all the same!! Don't feel bad for yourself. There is no need to love any Guerlain, although the history background does seem like it's nice if one finds one to adore, no? I believe that you would love some of the newer, modern, lighter ones, refined still and not without substance. Like Rose Barbare, Chypre Fatale, possibly some of the Aqua Allegorias (have you tried Herba Fresca and the Cherry Blossom in that line?). I also see you in Chant d'Aromes effortlessly. It's tender, very fine and delicate, with a nice sweetly layer over the greeness and the aldehydes which I read as "apricoty/peachy". And it doesn't cost an arm and a leg. :-)

    ReplyDelete

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