Beauty review: Liposan/Labello Caring Beauty 3-in1 Red

 I long liked and lamented the discontinuation of Liposan/Labello tinted lip balm in red. The Cherry Shine edition that replaced it was no substitute. It was so shiny, oily and slippery it created a gross oil smear on one's mouth with minimal colour, whereas the older balm formula was waxy, satiny with no gloss and stayed nicely put. It even left a stain if enough time and drink had passed. 

Imagine my elation upon stumbling on the newer Liposan/Labello Caring Beauty 3-in1 Red! It said it was for both lips and cheeks, so I came to the conclusion it must be at least satiny, if not matte, since having a gigantic grease circle on your cheek sounds and looks gross. Could it be true that theyd bring back the old formula? I didn't see it in physical stores, so bought online. For 3.5€ it was a no brainer, mixed with other goods in an online haul. 

Well, the formula isn't exactly the same as the old one, but it is pretty close in spirit and very pretty overall too. It has a rich, thick consistency, it feels good going on, and delivers a neutral clear red; not too warm, not too cool. The consistency makes for great morning use, something to apply on the run, no mirror necessary (bouche mordue anyone?) and the payoff is flushed lips in a becoming shade. I suppose it's as great on the cheeks too, though I don't really need it myself. Plus it's got SPF30 too. What's not to like? 

Considering if you're like me you will find it once, fall in love with it and by the time your run out they will have discontinued it, buy it now while you can! 

Miss Dior Eau de Cologne (vintage): perfume photography

photo by Elena Vosnaki
 

The Beauty of Warmth: perfume photography

 

all perfume photography by Elena Vosnaki

Carner Barcelona El Born: fragrance review

The winding cobbled streets flow seamlessly into the old stones of medieval times, witness to Barcelona’s history reprised by Carner Barcelona. Plants and flowers tumble down from tiny decorated balconies sharing scenery with vintage stores, pastelerías, cafeterías, old bookshops, wine bars… A group of old friends playing cards, youngsters discussing by the edge of the fountains, tourists enjoying a glass of champagne… this is El Born, a unique atmosphere where even the XIVth century church Santa Maria de Mar seems to want to go unnoticed, just being another spectator of the show. 

                              photo borrowed from Pinterest

This is how we're meant to envision the concept behind the fragrance of El Born, an organic outpouring of the Spanish cultural landscape. To me it's a sweetish, rum-like, deep and honeyed vanilla which lends itself easily to cooler weather, but not necessarily as dense as some other sticky gourmand vanillas. 

The synergy of angelica and citruses in El Born by Carner Barcelona cuts through the juvenile sweetness and the deep resins surface to push it into ambery-balsamic territory. A quirky vanilla full of subtly savoury touches, plush and full, through which a slicing scimitar of botanical rush cuts it open. Perfect for cool weather. 

Manos Gerakinis Parfums Sillage X: fragrance review

 Not coincidentally, the new Sillage X commemorates the 10th anniversary of the Greek niche brand founded by Manos Gerakinis as a project that is destined for a customer pursuing the refined things in life and the greatest luxury of them all: time. This is why Manos Gerakinis divulged to me in an interview that he takes his time to develop his fragrances; he doesn't rush to cater to the latest trend because he knows it will look like a quick grab and no soul, destined to not last. 

Created to celebrate the 10th anniversary of Manos Gerakinis Parfums, Sillage X is a thoughtful yet positively joyful olfactive reflection on the passage of time and what remains timeless. 

Although Sillage X is presented as a predominantly vetiver scent, it does not project as one. It is neither green nor fresh in the sense of all those summer vetivers that have been linked to airy and crunchy smellscapes, as classical as Guerlain's Vetiver and Carven's Vetiver. The citruses do burst like angels from the skies to sing their bright message of joy, but the fragrance soon turns into something different than a cologne. It's a thing of its own, terpenic, dry, delicious, and woody-spicy— a sillage that is leaving a trail of mystery behind it. Tempered but still substantial, smooth yet also somewhat durable. 

The main delectable note is black pepper (piper negrum), a note that the wide public is biased against, mainly because when they read "pepper," they're equating the smell with the flavor and fear things that make people around them sneeze. Of course, no such thing is true, either of the oil (which I love!) nor of the generous use of it in the formula of Sillage X. The spiciness is just right, balancing the citruses on top and giving that delicious durability to the heart, which grows out in the iris direction; starchy, earthy, nicely rounded and yet fresh too, reminiscent of juniper and cedarwood. Black pepper has the great quality to bring into focus elements that would otherwise recede to the background, and in Sillage X, this is eminently showcased. As my colleague Mat wrote about another instance, "In order to make a full-bodied black pepper aroma, you have to "extend" it by something weighty. In this case, the perfumer chose to do it with the help of various woods. Coming in second in importance, the note of cedar, dry, coniferous, and woody, peeks out soon enough and supports the savory theme of black pepper recalling cedar nuts, cutting board, and juniper wood trivets." 

If you're wary of fennel, on the other hand, rest assured that its touch of anethole is discreet here; there's no risk of you smelling of pastis. On the contrary, allied to the other spicy components, it brings on a degustation balance, the calm and serenity of a great dinner—all things in good order and in measured portions. 

Sillage X (2024)

perfumer: Vasiliki Psatha

Top notes: Bergamot, Lemon, Mandarin

Heart notes: Vetiver, Black Pepper, Cardamom, Fennel Seed

Base notes: Cedar, Moss, Patchouli