Fragrance Reviews of the Resurrected Guerlain Perfumes for the Centenary Celebration at Champs Elysees (part 2)

This is part 2 of the perfume descriptions of the heritage Guerlain fragrances which were re-issued for the smelling enjoyment of those who visit the renovated flagship store at Champs Elysees in Paris. If you have missed part 1 you can access it on this link.

Let me again extend my thanks to the generosity of Mme. Delacourte; without Sylvaine it wouldn't be possible to go in such detail. 

 SILLAGE

EXTRAIT 1907

A floral of white flowers : jasmine, tuberose, ylang-ylang on a leather background, oak moss and again tinctures of animal ingredients. A perfume emblematic of its era.

CANDIDE EFFLEUVE

EXTRACT 1922

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Fragrance Reviews of the Resurrected Guerlain Perfumes for the Centenary Celebration at Champs Elysees

Guerlain celebrated its centenary anniversary at Champs Elysées with an extensive renovation which lasted 9 months. The re-opening of the boutique on November 23rd impressed all Guerlain lovers with the reaffirming of the splendor of the classic French brand, as well as with the reissuing of iconic fragrances which form part of the cultural heritage of Maison Guerlain. These perfumes, displayed on the first floor of the 68 Champs Elysées boutique however are not for sale: the perfume enthusiast can visit the flagship and experience the sensations that these recreated scents from the past convey, but the formulae do not comply with current standards and therefore they stand mostly as a prized curio and a dream vehicle than a product to place on one's vanity.

But it is no matter!

The vivid and creative imagination of Jacques Guerlain who produced several fragrances per year is something to be enjoyed, rather than hoarded with materialistic aspirations.

So, the question is: How do these resurrected, Guerlain heritage fragrances actually smell? Thanks to the talents of Thierry Wasser and Fred Sacone (junior perfumer at Guerlain) who recreated them in contemporary time but vintage context as well as the indomitable spirit and generosity of Sylvaine Delacourte, it was possible to share with you. I thank Sylvaine for sharing her impressions and for continuing to assist the perfumers in what is a labor of prestige and love for the brand.

Here there are, the scent descriptions for all of them, in chronological order of original launch.

PAO ROSA (1877)

This really old cologne was first made in 1877, comprising the elements we have come to associate with classic colognes. The effarvescent top is comprised of bergamot and neroli, while the heart is centered on rose with the animalic notes of Tibetan musk tincture and civet tincture.

A TRAVERS CHAMPS
EXTRAIT 1877

Despite the opening notes of bergamot, petit grain and lavender, the focus of the extrait of A Travers Champs is undisputedly floral with rose, ylang ylang and a very pronounced spicy carnation note. The background is built on powdery iris, an authentic birch tar leathery note, woods and sensual impressions from amber and animalic scents.

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Welcome Back in Production (Tauer Fragrance Re-Issue)

Next month, in March, Tauer Perfumes #12-Eau d'Epices returns to the shops after an absence of a year and a half.  Eau d'Epices is a quite interesting scent and very much falls into a love/hate relationship with the Tauer clientele. The "love's" are clamoring for the return and here it is!

I will be devoting more space to it since it is a perfume I personally like very much and hopefully there will be lots to discuss about some finer things in the production and distribution of niche perfumes. Stay tuned!

An Insidious Thought on IFRA Restrictions

Much discussion is being conducted again in perfume loving circles over IFRA restrictions which will surely change things as we know them, should they pass through and become EU directive (Currently they're not one and the same, please note). The alert bell chimed on February 13th, as published in several French papers (You can see one of them here).

There are lots of ingredients on the chopping block, some already rationed heavily, some introduced recently. The list contains many naturals, but (here's the catch) it also includes many synthetics, i.e. man produced aromachemicals. This seems to blow a bit the argument that it's all a ploy to make naturals die and only champion aromachemicals. {IFRA lists the bulk of perfumery ingredients on this link].
It is however dire for many perfumes as we know them and indeed I had written so a year ago myself.

The reigning reception so far is that an expanded labeling system will be put into action anyway. The United Nations have proposed as counter argument that lots of of regional producers will be thus left out of business and out of work, cutting down on significant national revenue in some cases, a good argument that seems convincing to Brussels, certainly more convincing that perfume is a product of the intellect (especially since High Court decided against intellectual properties of the perfumes' formulae in the all too recent past in cases of "dupes").

So here's an insidious thought for you: could the mad panicking and hoarding of recent stock might eventually only benefit the grey market and the companies who will unload all their leftover stock that was sitting unclaimed? ;)

As always this page advises the use of caution and common sense.

Smell Perception & the Neuroscience of Personality, Sun 2/23 in NYC

The two Karens of Sniffapalooza have created an event to be held on Sunday, February 23rd, in NYC.  The premise is how the chemical aspects of perfumery affect our smell perception and preferences and link to our personality traits (It also acts as a promo for the DAT line developed by Dr.Shamil, Dr.Fischer and M.Nardin, read on).

The event starts at 2pm with an elegant tea party at the theatre-district resto Etcetera Etcetera! The journey is led by Dr. Syed Shamil, who earned a Ph.D in Taste and Smell Perception from the University of Reading in the United Kingdom, before going on to managerial positions at PepsiCo, as well as leading flavor and fragrance houses Firmenich and Mane. Dr. Shamil has partnered with Dr. Helen Fisher, a renowned Biological Anthropologist, award-winning lecturer, research professor at Rutgers University, and the Chief Scientific Advisor at Match.com,  and Robertet Master Perfumer Mathieu Nardin, to create DAT (Doctor's Aromatic Treat). DAT is a line of 4 gender non-specific perfumes based on the neuroscience of personality and developed specifically to attract four broad, biologically-based styles of personality: Explorer, Builder, Director & Negotiator (according to the developers). Guests will have the option to take Dr. Fisher's questionnaire. Time for questions with Dr. Shamil, Dr. Fisher, and M. Nardin is also provided for, with the event finishing at about 4pm.

The registration fee to reserve your spot is $45, and reservations will be taken on a first-come basis. More info for those interested on this page.