Thursday, April 25, 2013
Samples Giveaway
No post today and my drawers are filled with little vials, so you know what's coming: a giveaway of a goody bag of fragrant stuff for our readers. To enter the draw all you need to do is enter a comment saying what is your latest scented discovery/rediscovery or dislike (whatever applies or all three).
Draw is open internationally till Saturday 27th midnight. The winner will be announced on Monday.
Tuesday, April 23, 2013
Top 10 Best-Selling Feminine Fragrances for First Quarter of 2013 (USA)
How do people decide what to buy? The million dollar question for the marketing and research & development sectors in the fragrance industry isn't answered by previous best-selling perfume lists but the latter do give a glimpse into how the preferences shift in the x and y axis (x for time, y for market) and therefore in a way help shape the future market. Continuing therefore on our posts on Top Popular Fragrances for 2012 (France) , and Bestseller perfumes for women for 2011 (USA) today I bring you a collection of the most popular fragrances in the mainstream circuit in America. As you can see there are unshakeable mainstays, which have at the very least through sheer bulk of sales earned the badge of modern classic, and there are newcomers, usually propelled to the very front of the line in part thanks to a major advertising launch that involves famous, familiar faces fronting the campaigns.
In no particular order these are the best-selling fragrances in department stores across the US right now:
J'Adore (Christian Dior)
Guilty (Gucci)
Flowerbomb (Viktor & Rolf)
La Vie est Belle (Lancôme)
Brit (Burberry)
Angel (Thierry Mugler)
No.5 (Chanel)
Miss Dior [modern version] (Dior)
Light Blue (Dolce & Gabbana)
Coco Mademoiselle (Chanel)
Honorable mentions for Hanae Mori (Hanae Mori) and Viva La Juicy (Juicy Couture) and there is an augmenting segment for Jimmy Choo, Chloe, Lanvin, Coach and Marc Jacobs thanks to the new fragrant launches.
Burberry is a strong player in both the US and international market with a 53% increase in its sales total (calculated at 83,1 millions of euros) for the first trimester of 2013 according to Interparfums who hold the license for the brand.
What do you think about this list? Do you smell these fragrances often in your midst? Share in the comments.
![]() |
via Ade/Pinterest |
Gucci advert for Guilty featuring actor Chris Evans
In no particular order these are the best-selling fragrances in department stores across the US right now:
J'Adore (Christian Dior)
Guilty (Gucci)
Flowerbomb (Viktor & Rolf)
La Vie est Belle (Lancôme)
Brit (Burberry)
Angel (Thierry Mugler)
No.5 (Chanel)
Miss Dior [modern version] (Dior)
Light Blue (Dolce & Gabbana)
Coco Mademoiselle (Chanel)
Honorable mentions for Hanae Mori (Hanae Mori) and Viva La Juicy (Juicy Couture) and there is an augmenting segment for Jimmy Choo, Chloe, Lanvin, Coach and Marc Jacobs thanks to the new fragrant launches.
Burberry is a strong player in both the US and international market with a 53% increase in its sales total (calculated at 83,1 millions of euros) for the first trimester of 2013 according to Interparfums who hold the license for the brand.
What do you think about this list? Do you smell these fragrances often in your midst? Share in the comments.
Monday, April 22, 2013
L'Artisan Parfumeur L'Ete en Douce (previously Extrait de Songe): fragrance review
Essence of a dream, that is Extrait de songe, was the very poetic name of a limited edition “clean”perfume for summer 2005 by L’artisan Parfumeur. The latter lost a legal battle over the coveted name with Annick Goutal who had the name Songes (=dreams) copyrighted for her own, completely different, floriental composition. Hence the lovely Extrait de Songe became extinct... Later it was rechristened as L'Eté en Douce (playing on a French idiom, meaning "summer is sneaking up on you")

However many perfume fans say the fragrance in either name smells quite close to another older L’artisan offering, one of the Moodswings coffret, Lazy Mood, developed by the same perfumer, Olivia Giacobetti. This got me thinking.
Laziness, boredom, dullness….all of these words bring to mind the languorous days of a really hot summer, when one isn’t energized enough to actively do anything except sleep. We had a long bout of this in the summer and am afraid we will get it again soon enough.
When I am talking hot, I am not talking Canada “hot”. Nor Germany “hot”. These are euphemisms. These are mere bleeps on the radar of hotness, never managing to register with me. (It’s actually my preferred weather: if only we had 28 degree Celsius half the year long...)
I am talking 39-40 degrees hell hot, all red and fiery; when your own skin is becoming revolting to you and you want to tear it apart with one swift gesture like an overzealous Russian waxer with steroid-enhanced arms; when hair sticks on your forehead inviting you to turn into a travesty of a skinhead; when sticky liquid oozes off your pores just by sitting around doing nothing. Yes, you’ve guessed it: I hate those moments with a passion.
The “noon devil” of the hermits of Egypt, which draws out every speck of physical and mental vitality, is my personal nemesis.

Samuel Butler says that boredom is a kind of spiritual failure, since the person who lets himself to emote it is more despicable than boredom itself.
But is it so bad, really? I wonder…
Billy Collins, the poet, calls boredom paradise itself. “It’s the blessed absence of things that the world offers as interesting such as fashion, media, and other people, whom Sartre –let’s not forget- characterized as hell.”
Anton Chekhov also idealized boredom in many of his plays, like in Uncle Vania and Samuel Beckett’s “Waiting for Godot” remains without a doubt the manifesto of dullness, featuring characters that await for that bastard Godot who never makes an appearance and which proves boredom can be pro-active after all, because many had stood up and left the theatre from what I recall :-)) The New York author Richard Greenburg even wrote a book (titled “Take me out”) after a bout of boredom during one especially dull summer, during which he watched baseball matches on TV. Luckily I am not that desperate. Brenda Way, choreographer, likes to sit and think when stuck in a jammed highway: She believes it aids her involuntary voyage to creativity by using her unconscious powers at those precise moments.
Made by nose Olivia Giacobetti, who is famous for her light compositions that are like Winslow Homer paintings, Extrait de Songe/L'Eté en Douce is typically her style and seems very fit for such moments. It's an interpretation of freshness without acidulated, fusing or sparkling notes and it reminds me of the style that Jean Claude Ellena later explored in one of his "cologne" duo, called Eau de Gentiane Blanche. The two fragrances do not smell the same, but they share a similar sensibility and apparently a generous smothering of ambrette seed.
Featuring an airy and totally linear formula, Extrait de Songe/L'Eté en Douce begins with linden and lots of "clean" orange blossom water, like the flower water used to sprinkle Mediterranean cookies with, segueing on to hay- like (coumarin?) and woody notes, it finishes off with a kiss of white musk and the bitterish ambrette like newly washed bed-clothes envelopping your showered body. It's all purity, all light! Uncomplicated, easy, soft, lastingly diaphanous, evoking the dew caressing grass in a field and on wild rose bushes, the freshness of lime trees and the warm scent of freshly cut hay; a fragrance that has no aspirations of creating discussion, but only of making you feel good about yourself! The whole projects at a white radiant frequency which must be as close to seraphic cool places as possible without actually hitting the bucket.
Whatever your camp is (and I suppose you still run a pulse if you're reading right now), Extrait de Songe/L'Eté en Douce manages to smell like it is the best thing to exonerate the bad and amplify the good aspects of boredom.

Notes for L'Artisan Extrait de Songe/L'Eté en Douce:mint, rose, orange blossom and white musk
Please note: another fragrance by L'Artisan has just recently changed name, namely Vanille Absolument which used to be Havana Vanille (2009).
Inspired by a euro2day comment. Pic of kitten got sent to me by email, unaccredited. L'Ete en Douce bottle pic via duftarchiv.de
Sunday, April 21, 2013
"The feeling you get when a little bird sings a song he made up just for you": Vintage Advertising Champions 2
"Chant d'Arômes is a special way of feeling.
It is the rare way you feel when you love someone and he loves you back.
Or when you breathe in the sweet of a giant forest right after it rains.
Sometimes Chant d'Arômes is a happy feeling.
The feeling you get when a little bird sings a song he made up just for you.
Chant d'Arômes could be the comfort of having a secret place that is all your very own.
Or having someone understand how you feel, even when you don't tell them.
Chant d'Arômes is lots of things all put together.
Chant d'Arômes is a perfume by Guerlain's."
Vintage ad for Chant d'Aromes perfume by Guerlain. Illustration by Joan Walsh Anglund, 1967.
Friday, April 19, 2013
Mementos in Scent: From Perfumed Gloves to Handbags to Scented Handkerchiefs
Sometimes inanimate objects, accessories like handbags or scarves, gain a scent patina through use which can't be rinsed by the passage of ever destructible time. They stand there to remind us of the people who have inhabited those objects like spirits inhabit an attic, ghosts of the past, memories etched in scent.
In Kathleen Tessaro's 1950s-set novel "The Perfume Collector" the reinventing herself heroine receives small consolation from her best friend upon finding out -early in the book- that her husband is cheating with a glamorous society lady: a fragranced handkerchief. "She wanted to apologize; to reach out and hold Grace's hand and reassure her. But she didn't know how. If only she'd have the gumption to wrestle Vanesa to the ground on behalf of her friend. Instead, she did what her mother used to do; one of the only signs of affection that ever passed between them. Mallory took a fresh handerchief out of her coat pocket. It smelled faintly of Yardley Lily of the Valley toilet water, the perfume that haunted the bedrooms of her chilhood. She pressed it into Grace's hand. 'Take this darling. Just in case'."
Scent can even get better on a handkerchief than on the body, but for a truly sensual experience there's nothing like a handkerchief that has been kept warm by a special someone's body and slowly diffused the fragrance they have used. I used to keep a scented scarf of my beloved when I was traveling tucked inside my lingerie, knowing the warmth when the items would be worn would rekindle the scent of him. Handbags are no less poignant, especially the old hard-structured kind, with its sturdy leather and soft silk interior. The saturation of the fabric brought its own smells: face powder, lipstick, perfume, flowers decaying, the metallic scent of loose change, paper and pen...Annick Goutal recreated that beloved impression in her room spray Le sac de ma mere.
Gloves have a noble history behind them. Apart from leather ones, nevertheless, those made out of wool, cotton or silk can also yield their own passionate stories. Ellen, one of my readers sent me the following story: Her now deceased mother used to tell her a story about her own mother, an impeccably dressed lady who used to wear white gloves when she went out.The grandmother went out to dinner at a restaurant which was frequented by older ladies. After she came home, she realized that she had left her gloves at the restaurant and asked her daughter to go and bring them back. She of course complied and asked the owner if a pair of white gloves had been found. He brought out a box in which there were literally a hundred pairs of white gloves and shrugged his shoulders. But undaunted, Ellen's mother picked up each pair of gloves and sniffed them. After about twenty pairs, she told the manager that she had found her dmother's gloves. He looked at her and asked her how she could be so sure, and she replied that the gloves smelled of April Violets, by Yardley, and that was the fragrance my grandmother always wore. She brought them home and my grandmother said that yes, they were in fact, her gloves.
What are your scented mementos? Do you have a story involving a fragranced object? Please feel free to share in the comments.
![]() |
via schweitzerlinen.com |
Scent can even get better on a handkerchief than on the body, but for a truly sensual experience there's nothing like a handkerchief that has been kept warm by a special someone's body and slowly diffused the fragrance they have used. I used to keep a scented scarf of my beloved when I was traveling tucked inside my lingerie, knowing the warmth when the items would be worn would rekindle the scent of him. Handbags are no less poignant, especially the old hard-structured kind, with its sturdy leather and soft silk interior. The saturation of the fabric brought its own smells: face powder, lipstick, perfume, flowers decaying, the metallic scent of loose change, paper and pen...Annick Goutal recreated that beloved impression in her room spray Le sac de ma mere.
Gloves have a noble history behind them. Apart from leather ones, nevertheless, those made out of wool, cotton or silk can also yield their own passionate stories. Ellen, one of my readers sent me the following story: Her now deceased mother used to tell her a story about her own mother, an impeccably dressed lady who used to wear white gloves when she went out.The grandmother went out to dinner at a restaurant which was frequented by older ladies. After she came home, she realized that she had left her gloves at the restaurant and asked her daughter to go and bring them back. She of course complied and asked the owner if a pair of white gloves had been found. He brought out a box in which there were literally a hundred pairs of white gloves and shrugged his shoulders. But undaunted, Ellen's mother picked up each pair of gloves and sniffed them. After about twenty pairs, she told the manager that she had found her dmother's gloves. He looked at her and asked her how she could be so sure, and she replied that the gloves smelled of April Violets, by Yardley, and that was the fragrance my grandmother always wore. She brought them home and my grandmother said that yes, they were in fact, her gloves.
What are your scented mementos? Do you have a story involving a fragranced object? Please feel free to share in the comments.
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