Two well-known French brands belonging to bigger business groups are doing a twist on their presentation and in some cases possibly a rethinking of their products. Guerlain and Goutal need no introductions, as any perfume lover is familiar with their well-loved iconography. Yet, this seems about to change in some ways.
To take first things first, Guerlain is changing the pattern of making and selling one of its lower sellers, Jardins de Bagatelle (reviewed on these pages). "As of 2013, the original Jardins de Bagatelle bottle is taken out of production. It is being replaced by the bee atomizer, with a green label. It will only come as Eau de Parfum, while the Eau de Toilette is being discontinued." [source]
Jardins de Bagatelle eau de toilette is therefore no more and the revamping into an Eau de Parfum in the bee bottle can only mean one thing: a single size and a spiked price.
[Lady Jicky, if you're reading, please stock up on Jardins de Bagatelle in Eau de toilette]. Well, at least they didn't move it into the Les Parisiennes line which is boutique-exclusive and much more expensive. Cessation of the production of a difficult and unique bottle for the fragrance in favor of a more generic and easily recognizable one is probably adequately reasoned by the cost vs. profit equation.
On the conceptual front, Peter Marino is in the midst of renovating the legendary 68 Champs-Elysées headquarters in Paris; works are in full swing as the reveal is set to be revealed July 2014. The last renovation of the flagship Guerlain was completed in 2005 by Andrée Putman, right when the sponsoring from LVMH practically signaled a new era for Guerlain (even though the take-over was in mid-1990s, it took some years for the new direction to start showing). Perhaps with Putman recently deceased, the renovation is indeed a new leaf.
Annick Goutal, on the other hand, is enjoying a renewed expansion thanks to solving its distribution problems a while ago under new patronage. The first step of renovation comes with Les Colognes Goutal. Not entirely new, since the Colognes reprise the beloved scents of Eau d'Hadrien, Neroli and Vetiver, all classics in their own right, yet the repackaging of Les Colognes Annick Goutal proposes a more distinctive and more generous presentation: the bottles become larger, at 200 ml of liquid, more elongated, with a simpler, solid matte gold cap and a white label with the Annick Goutal insignia in gold and a curvaceous gold edge.The colognes will retail at 135 euros.
The whole line will be color-coded anew for a more distinctive look and the boutiques will follow the new look, come April 2013. According to Christina Möller-Theulle, international marketing director for parfums Goutal, the new concept will be for the shops to become an experience in their own right through a facelift of the displays and the color-coding of the collections. The Saint-Sulpice shop marries the ironwork staircase with the butterfly wings which have become an emblem for Goutal, while the rue de Castillogne boutique juxtaposes the concrete floors inlaid with gold ivy with a carved, semi-fluted gigantic display. The company is very much interested in the Asian market, seeing as Goutal is the leader in niche fragrances in Japan with their Petite Chérie, and are accordingly planning on opening "selling booths" in both China and Thailand.
With thanks to Mr.Guerlain and AlbertCAN.
Friday, March 22, 2013
Changes at Guerlain & Goutal: Repackaging & New Boutique Image
Thursday, March 21, 2013
Fragrance Layering: Tips for Scent Combining part 2, Suggestions by Francis Kurkdjian & Serge Lutens
If you're new to scent combining or "layering" (or don't know what this is) please refer to our Layman's Guide to Fragrance Layering on this link. Today I'm updating with part 2 with perfume combining suggestions by famous "noses".
To start you off, here are some recommendations by acclaimed perfumer Francis Kurdjian as they first appeared in French Marie-Claire, Dec 2005. Kukdjian recommends a starter perfume of proven popularity/classic status (below, in capitals) and then offers suggestions on what to layer it with, according to occasion/time of day. It's interesting to note that he regularly offers suggestions involving his own compositions...which would negate the often quipped argument that layering is only meant for "mending" a fragrance lacking in some way.
SHALIMAR
Day : Cologne de Mugler or Eau d’Hadrien or Eau de Cologne Bien-Etre verte
Night : Musc Ravageur (Malle) or B*Men de Mugler
L’AIR DU TEMPS
Day : Eau parfumée au thé vert Bulgari
Night : Eternity (C.Klein)
L'HEURE BLEUE
Day : Un jardin en méditerranée d’Hermès
Night : Voile d’Ambre (Y.Rocher) or Nu d’YSL
CHANEL NO.5
Day : Colonia d’Acqua di Parma
Night : Musc Ravageur (Malle) or Féminité du bois (Lutens)
JOY
Day : Blush de Marc Jacobs or Rose barbare de Guerlain
Night : Original Musk de Kiehl’s
CHANEL NO.19
Day : Mure et Musc or Hiris (Hermès ) or Déclaration pour homme de Cartier or Eau de Cartier
Night : Lolita Lempicka or L’Eau Ivre No.03 de Iunx
YSL OPIUM original
Day : Un Jardin sur le Nil d'Hermès
Night : Poivre Samarcande Hermessence d’Hermès or Féminité du bois
YSL PARIS
Day : Rose Ikabena Hermessence d’Hermès or Sa Majesté la Rose (Lutens)
Night : Cuir Améthyste d’Armani Privé
GIORGIO BERVERLY HILLS
Day : Rem de Reminiscence
Night : L’Instant de Guerlain
DIORISSIMO
Day : Cologne de Thierry Mugler
Night : Mandarena de Sicilia d’Aqua di Parma or Le Parfum de Castelbajac
FÉMINITÉ DU BOIS
Day : Eau d’Orange Verte d’Hermès
Night : Angel or Rush de Gucci
EAU D’ISSEY
Day : Anais Anais
Night : Rem de Reminiscence
NARCISCO RODRIGUEZ
Day : Fleur d’Oranger de L’Artisan Parfumeur
Night : Aromatics Elixir
AMBRE SULTAN
Day : Eau d’Hadrien
Night : Gaultier2
MURE et MUSC
Day : Dior Diorella or Pleasures (Lauder)
Night : Rahat Loukoum (Lutens)
LOLITA LEMPICKA
Day: Violette de Maison Berdoues
Night: Angel
TRÉSOR
Day : Promesse de Cacharel or Lovely de SJP
Night : Vanille Passion de Comptoir Sud Pacifique
The info comes from French Marie-Claire, Dec 2005 print edition (I believe I was notified of this snippet ages ago by Bela/MUA, if I recall correctly)
Other perfumers also recommend layering.
Here are some of the recommendations of Serge Lutens of Palais Royal de Shiseido. Serge even goes as far as suggesting you combine three scents of his famous powerhouses (!) or just combine two mantioned in the same line:
Ambre Sultan, Daim Blond, Arabie
Ambre Sultan, Un Bois Vanille, Douce Amère
Ambre Sultan, Fleurs d'Oranger, Datura Noir
Ambre Sultan, Daim Blond, Clair de Musc
Fleurs de Citronnier, A la Nuit, Sa Majesté la Rose
Fleurs de Citronnier, Clair de Musc, Santal Blanc
Fleurs de Citronnier, Fleurs d'Oranger, Datura Noir
In "The Emperor of Smell" by Chandler Burr there is this info on "primaries" of smell, as used by perfumer Jean Claude Ellena :
Banana +Lemon = Jasmine
Mint + Rum = Black currant
Also there is this professional shortcut used by Jean Claude Ellena in his fragrances (more difficult to replicate at home):
isobutyl phenylacetate + vanillin = chocolate
You can also experiment freely with the Jo Malone collection, which was initially specifically designed to be layered. This is most agreeable with the older scents in the line, but they all offer their possibilities. The same can be said about the single note Diptyque candles or room sprays, for some fragrance layering for the home (or on yourself, most room sprays by Diptyque are safe for use on skin, though you need to do a patch test first just to be sure).
As with everything, have fun and if your experiment ends up not satisfactory, take refuge in the idea that it's only perfume; you can always wash it off and start anew the following day!
To start you off, here are some recommendations by acclaimed perfumer Francis Kurdjian as they first appeared in French Marie-Claire, Dec 2005. Kukdjian recommends a starter perfume of proven popularity/classic status (below, in capitals) and then offers suggestions on what to layer it with, according to occasion/time of day. It's interesting to note that he regularly offers suggestions involving his own compositions...which would negate the often quipped argument that layering is only meant for "mending" a fragrance lacking in some way.
SHALIMAR
Day : Cologne de Mugler or Eau d’Hadrien or Eau de Cologne Bien-Etre verte
Night : Musc Ravageur (Malle) or B*Men de Mugler
L’AIR DU TEMPS
Day : Eau parfumée au thé vert Bulgari
Night : Eternity (C.Klein)
via aufeminin.com |
Day : Un jardin en méditerranée d’Hermès
Night : Voile d’Ambre (Y.Rocher) or Nu d’YSL
CHANEL NO.5
Day : Colonia d’Acqua di Parma
Night : Musc Ravageur (Malle) or Féminité du bois (Lutens)
JOY
Day : Blush de Marc Jacobs or Rose barbare de Guerlain
Night : Original Musk de Kiehl’s
CHANEL NO.19
Day : Mure et Musc or Hiris (Hermès ) or Déclaration pour homme de Cartier or Eau de Cartier
Night : Lolita Lempicka or L’Eau Ivre No.03 de Iunx
YSL OPIUM original
Day : Un Jardin sur le Nil d'Hermès
Night : Poivre Samarcande Hermessence d’Hermès or Féminité du bois
YSL PARIS
Day : Rose Ikabena Hermessence d’Hermès or Sa Majesté la Rose (Lutens)
Night : Cuir Améthyste d’Armani Privé
GIORGIO BERVERLY HILLS
Day : Rem de Reminiscence
Night : L’Instant de Guerlain
via hqprints.com |
DIORISSIMO
Day : Cologne de Thierry Mugler
Night : Mandarena de Sicilia d’Aqua di Parma or Le Parfum de Castelbajac
FÉMINITÉ DU BOIS
Day : Eau d’Orange Verte d’Hermès
Night : Angel or Rush de Gucci
EAU D’ISSEY
Day : Anais Anais
Night : Rem de Reminiscence
NARCISCO RODRIGUEZ
Day : Fleur d’Oranger de L’Artisan Parfumeur
Night : Aromatics Elixir
AMBRE SULTAN
Day : Eau d’Hadrien
Night : Gaultier2
MURE et MUSC
Day : Dior Diorella or Pleasures (Lauder)
Night : Rahat Loukoum (Lutens)
LOLITA LEMPICKA
Day: Violette de Maison Berdoues
Night: Angel
TRÉSOR
Day : Promesse de Cacharel or Lovely de SJP
Night : Vanille Passion de Comptoir Sud Pacifique
The info comes from French Marie-Claire, Dec 2005 print edition (I believe I was notified of this snippet ages ago by Bela/MUA, if I recall correctly)
Other perfumers also recommend layering.
Here are some of the recommendations of Serge Lutens of Palais Royal de Shiseido. Serge even goes as far as suggesting you combine three scents of his famous powerhouses (!) or just combine two mantioned in the same line:
via lenoma.ru |
Ambre Sultan, Daim Blond, Arabie
Ambre Sultan, Un Bois Vanille, Douce Amère
Ambre Sultan, Fleurs d'Oranger, Datura Noir
Ambre Sultan, Daim Blond, Clair de Musc
Fleurs de Citronnier, A la Nuit, Sa Majesté la Rose
Fleurs de Citronnier, Clair de Musc, Santal Blanc
Fleurs de Citronnier, Fleurs d'Oranger, Datura Noir
In "The Emperor of Smell" by Chandler Burr there is this info on "primaries" of smell, as used by perfumer Jean Claude Ellena :
Banana +Lemon = Jasmine
Mint + Rum = Black currant
Also there is this professional shortcut used by Jean Claude Ellena in his fragrances (more difficult to replicate at home):
isobutyl phenylacetate + vanillin = chocolate
You can also experiment freely with the Jo Malone collection, which was initially specifically designed to be layered. This is most agreeable with the older scents in the line, but they all offer their possibilities. The same can be said about the single note Diptyque candles or room sprays, for some fragrance layering for the home (or on yourself, most room sprays by Diptyque are safe for use on skin, though you need to do a patch test first just to be sure).
As with everything, have fun and if your experiment ends up not satisfactory, take refuge in the idea that it's only perfume; you can always wash it off and start anew the following day!
Wednesday, March 20, 2013
The winners of the draw...
...for the new Tauer fragrance samples are Elisa, theperfumeddandy, and K.O. Congratulations! Please email me using Contact with your shipping data so I can have these out in the mail for you soon.
For everyone else, let me remind you there is another giveaway of a full, new, sealed perfume bottle of Burberry Brit I'm hosting right now. You can enter the draw on this post. And remember, bonus points for anyone who becomes a follower at Twitter @perfumeshrine !
For everyone else, let me remind you there is another giveaway of a full, new, sealed perfume bottle of Burberry Brit I'm hosting right now. You can enter the draw on this post. And remember, bonus points for anyone who becomes a follower at Twitter @perfumeshrine !
Free Perfume 3.4oz Eau de Parfum Bottle Giveaway
Something special today for the readers of Perfume Shrine in celebration for the national fragrance day tomorrow and the official start of spring. So if you're game, please leave a comment with scent-related thoughts about spring in the comment section. Anything goes! Bonus points for new Twitter followers who gain two slots for the draw!
This giveaway wouldn't be possible without the kind sponsorship by 99perfume.com [link is unaffiliated] who are offering a full 3.4oz eau de parfum bottle of Burberry Brit for women to a lucky winner. The draw is open to readers in the continental USA at this time, since the company is offering free shipping to those addresses only. [I'm sorry if this inconveniences international readers but it is beyond my control.]
Draw is open until Thursday midnight and winner will be announced on Friday.
Burberry Brit for women opens with fresh notes of lime, frosted pear and white almond. The heart blooms with white peony. The drydown is very gourmand with vanilla, amber, mahogany and balsamic Tonka bean accords.
Good luck!!
And don't forget to check again later today for the announcement of the winners of the Tauer draw!
This giveaway wouldn't be possible without the kind sponsorship by 99perfume.com [link is unaffiliated] who are offering a full 3.4oz eau de parfum bottle of Burberry Brit for women to a lucky winner. The draw is open to readers in the continental USA at this time, since the company is offering free shipping to those addresses only. [I'm sorry if this inconveniences international readers but it is beyond my control.]
Draw is open until Thursday midnight and winner will be announced on Friday.
Burberry Brit for women opens with fresh notes of lime, frosted pear and white almond. The heart blooms with white peony. The drydown is very gourmand with vanilla, amber, mahogany and balsamic Tonka bean accords.
Good luck!!
And don't forget to check again later today for the announcement of the winners of the Tauer draw!
Tuesday, March 19, 2013
The Smell of Zombies: Now in Cologne Form for Him and Her
Do you like your movies filled with rows of living corpses? Does the idea of some rotting flesh bring out the 12-year-old boy in you? Is Night of the Living Dead your favorite guilty pleasure? And did you secretly say "yeah, zombies can be normal folks like you and me" while watching Shaun of the Dead?
You're in for a treat then!
Demeter, a cult fragrance line off NYC, has brought out the scent of the living dead in cologne form (in masculine and feminine declinations no less!), so you know what you're going to douse yourself with next Halloween or next Zombie-slumber-party.
The Demeter Fragrance Library explains that its colorless, Zombie For Him cologne smells like 'forest floor', with notes of dried leaves, mushrooms, mildew, moss and earth. And the women's version (Zombie for Her) is slightly 'lighter', with the additional aroma of dregs 'from the bottom of the wine barrel for that feminine touch.'[source]
The two scents are limited edition, available only from March 15th to April 20th on the Demeter online store.
Demeter, founded by Christopher Brosius and Christopher Gable in 1993, has never stopped producing not-your-average-fragrances for people who are after specific smells (their Rain is the scent of a humidifier pegged just right, their Dirt is the kind you plunge your gardener's hands into and rejoice, they have Vanilla Cake Batter, Play-Doh, Turpentine, Beetroot, Sex on the Beach (after the cocktail), Moonbeam, Laundromat and many many others in a staggering catalogue of 250 scents.
Now would you be curious to smell these? And what do zombies smell like anyway?
As one reader commented on the Daily Mail: "I don't know what a dead man walking would smell like, but I'll bet it isn't too dissimilar to the current occupants of the government front bench." I couldn't have put it better myself.
This snippet of news was brought to my attention by the lovely Minette.
The Demeter Fragrance Library explains that its colorless, Zombie For Him cologne smells like 'forest floor', with notes of dried leaves, mushrooms, mildew, moss and earth. And the women's version (Zombie for Her) is slightly 'lighter', with the additional aroma of dregs 'from the bottom of the wine barrel for that feminine touch.'[source]
Shaun of the Dead |
The two scents are limited edition, available only from March 15th to April 20th on the Demeter online store.
Demeter, founded by Christopher Brosius and Christopher Gable in 1993, has never stopped producing not-your-average-fragrances for people who are after specific smells (their Rain is the scent of a humidifier pegged just right, their Dirt is the kind you plunge your gardener's hands into and rejoice, they have Vanilla Cake Batter, Play-Doh, Turpentine, Beetroot, Sex on the Beach (after the cocktail), Moonbeam, Laundromat and many many others in a staggering catalogue of 250 scents.
Now would you be curious to smell these? And what do zombies smell like anyway?
As one reader commented on the Daily Mail: "I don't know what a dead man walking would smell like, but I'll bet it isn't too dissimilar to the current occupants of the government front bench." I couldn't have put it better myself.
This snippet of news was brought to my attention by the lovely Minette.
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