It doesn't matter that Dior's Miss Dior perfume is a travesty on a thousand levels (the fragrance started out being called Miss Dior Cherie, it changed its formula into being unrecognizable, it took the name of the original 1947 Miss Dior perfume confusing consumers etc. etc; click on Miss Dior vs Miss Dior Cherie differences article to find out the whole truth). A new campaign is a new campaign nevertheless (starring Natalie Portman again, the premise for the new, more "serious" love angle they're pitching) and it will have tongues wagging, no doubt. Especially since Sofia Coppola is directing (i.e. the woman who was responsible for the delightful and oh-so-fun original Miss Dior Cherie campaign with a flirty Marina Linchuk set to Bardot's "Moi, je joue" tune years ago).
Here are the teasers, the whole commercial will air on February 24th.
I assume the line "Christian Dior said" refers to the Dior fragrances brand and not the actual designer...(who had been dead long before Miss Dior (Cherie) was even a spermatic thought at anyone's mind). Ah well, chalk it up into harmless fluff and enjoy the visuals.
"When he takes me in his hands...
...and whispers love to me...
...everything's lovely. It's him for me and me for him...
...all our lives, and it's so real what I feel, that's why."
The teasers are code-named "the fountain" (la fontaine), "the car ride" (la voiture), "the kiss" (le baiser) and "the garden" (le jardin).
.jpg)
Tuesday, February 19, 2013
European Parliament Question re:Allergens in Perfumes
The matter of increasing control of suspected allergens in perfumes is both taking wings (with increased vigilance on the part of the industry) and starting to face opposition by concerned parties (perfume lovers, raw material growers, manufacturing companies etc). Here is the latest I came across regarding a formal plea to the European Parliament apropos the use of Calabrian bergamot in the fragrance and flavor industry.
European Question to the European Parliament
4 January 2013
E-000022-13
Question for written answer to the Commission Rule 117
Cristiana Muscardini (ECR)
Subject: A bergamot-tinged war? Answer(s)
Here we go again, according to some newspaper reports. The lobbies of certain chemical industries are declaring, via the European Union, that between 1 % and 3 % of the European population are 'potentially' allergic to some ingredients found in perfumes. The proposal to reduce the concentration of essential oils from 12 % to 0.01 % would sound the death knell for bergamot and would see this traditional product disappear from Calabria, the only region in the world that is able to produce this citrus fruit, from which the oils that form the base of many perfumes are extracted. One is tempted to say: 'Here we go again!'
There was an attempt, in the past, to stop pizzas from being cooked in wood-fired ovens, for health reasons. There was also an attempt to harm the production of chocolate eggs containing a 'surprise', this time for reasons to do with the safety of children, who could have swallowed the small 'surprise' objects. Now another attempt is being made with a natural production process that is unique in the world and concentrated along a coastal strip, around 80 km long and 10 km wide, in the region of Calabria. That means that 650 farms, 7 000 workers and 1 300 hectares used for plant production are affected, not to mention the numerous perfume houses that use bergamot essence to establish a fragrance's bouquet.
The industry would like to replace this natural product with a synthetic product, which obviously has nothing to do with the Citrus Bergamia Risso citrus fruit, better known as bergamot.
1. Can the Commission confirm whether the news is true?
2. Does it really intend to support the arguments put forward by certain chemical manufacturers, against a natural product that has kept the perfume industry going for centuries without ever being harmful to health?
3. Can it say whether bergamot essence is patented or recognised by the various EU arrangements for recognising protected origin?
4. Does it not believe that the tea industry will also be compromised, given that bergamot peel is used for the aromatic Earl Grey blend?
[Original language of question: Italian]
EN E-000022/2013
Answer given by Commissioner Tonio Borg on behalf of the Commission (14.2.2013)
The Commission would like to clarify, in response to the first question, that an opinion on fragrance allergens in cosmetic products was issued in June 2012 by the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS). This opinion updates the list of fragrance allergens (including natural extracts) relevant to consumers, while confirming that the 26 fragrance allergens already regulated in the Cosmetics Directive[1] are still of concern.
The Commission is currently reflecting on how to implement this opinion so that it contributes to consumer information and safety in the most adequate and proportionate way, while maintaining innovation and the competitiveness of the cosmetics sector. To this end, it is thoroughly assessing the social (in terms of protection of consumers, availability of products and employment) and economic impacts of possible options, taking into account also vigilance data and additional elements of consumer exposure.
As for the third question, Bergamotto di Reggio Calabria Olio essenziale is registered at EU level as a Protected Designation of Origin in the group of essential oils[2].
In relation to the fourth question, the Commission is aware that some food flavourings when used as fragrances in cosmetics may be dermal sensitizers. However, there is generally no concern on allergic reaction via oral exposure. The Commission does not therefore believe that the tea industry risks to be compromised. |
[1]|Council Directive 76/768/EEC of 27 July 1976 on the approximation of the laws of the Member States relating to cosmetic products, OJ L 262, 27.9.1976, p. 169.|
|[2]|Commission Regulation (EC) No 509/2001 of 15 March 2001 supplementing the Annex to Regulation (EC) No 2400/96 on the entry of certain names in the 'Register of protected designations or origin and protected geographical indications' provided for in Council Regulation (EEC) No 2081/92 on the protection of geographical indications and designations of origin for agricultural products and foodstuffs, OJ L 76, 16.3.2001, p. 7.|
You can draw your own conclusions.
For what is worth, here is an interview with Stephen Welter from IFRA (the International Fragrance Association) from July 2012 where he maintains that the premium goal is the ensuring of safety for consumers (and where it transpires that IFRA is the final testing body which receives applications/suggestions on banning things from SCCS and other lobbies).
This is a most interesting excerpt from it, as per Stephen Weller:
The text of the Parliament question can be found on this link.
Related reading on Perfume Shrine: Allergens and Perfume Industry Restrictions, The Bergamot Series
Poached this reference on the Fragrantica boards via member Kitty48
 |
| via www.thekitchn.com |
4 January 2013
E-000022-13
Question for written answer to the Commission Rule 117
Cristiana Muscardini (ECR)
Subject: A bergamot-tinged war? Answer(s)
Here we go again, according to some newspaper reports. The lobbies of certain chemical industries are declaring, via the European Union, that between 1 % and 3 % of the European population are 'potentially' allergic to some ingredients found in perfumes. The proposal to reduce the concentration of essential oils from 12 % to 0.01 % would sound the death knell for bergamot and would see this traditional product disappear from Calabria, the only region in the world that is able to produce this citrus fruit, from which the oils that form the base of many perfumes are extracted. One is tempted to say: 'Here we go again!'
There was an attempt, in the past, to stop pizzas from being cooked in wood-fired ovens, for health reasons. There was also an attempt to harm the production of chocolate eggs containing a 'surprise', this time for reasons to do with the safety of children, who could have swallowed the small 'surprise' objects. Now another attempt is being made with a natural production process that is unique in the world and concentrated along a coastal strip, around 80 km long and 10 km wide, in the region of Calabria. That means that 650 farms, 7 000 workers and 1 300 hectares used for plant production are affected, not to mention the numerous perfume houses that use bergamot essence to establish a fragrance's bouquet.
The industry would like to replace this natural product with a synthetic product, which obviously has nothing to do with the Citrus Bergamia Risso citrus fruit, better known as bergamot.
1. Can the Commission confirm whether the news is true?
2. Does it really intend to support the arguments put forward by certain chemical manufacturers, against a natural product that has kept the perfume industry going for centuries without ever being harmful to health?
3. Can it say whether bergamot essence is patented or recognised by the various EU arrangements for recognising protected origin?
4. Does it not believe that the tea industry will also be compromised, given that bergamot peel is used for the aromatic Earl Grey blend?
[Original language of question: Italian]
EN E-000022/2013
Answer given by Commissioner Tonio Borg on behalf of the Commission (14.2.2013)
The Commission would like to clarify, in response to the first question, that an opinion on fragrance allergens in cosmetic products was issued in June 2012 by the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS). This opinion updates the list of fragrance allergens (including natural extracts) relevant to consumers, while confirming that the 26 fragrance allergens already regulated in the Cosmetics Directive[1] are still of concern.
The Commission is currently reflecting on how to implement this opinion so that it contributes to consumer information and safety in the most adequate and proportionate way, while maintaining innovation and the competitiveness of the cosmetics sector. To this end, it is thoroughly assessing the social (in terms of protection of consumers, availability of products and employment) and economic impacts of possible options, taking into account also vigilance data and additional elements of consumer exposure.
As for the third question, Bergamotto di Reggio Calabria Olio essenziale is registered at EU level as a Protected Designation of Origin in the group of essential oils[2].
In relation to the fourth question, the Commission is aware that some food flavourings when used as fragrances in cosmetics may be dermal sensitizers. However, there is generally no concern on allergic reaction via oral exposure. The Commission does not therefore believe that the tea industry risks to be compromised. |
[1]|Council Directive 76/768/EEC of 27 July 1976 on the approximation of the laws of the Member States relating to cosmetic products, OJ L 262, 27.9.1976, p. 169.|
|[2]|Commission Regulation (EC) No 509/2001 of 15 March 2001 supplementing the Annex to Regulation (EC) No 2400/96 on the entry of certain names in the 'Register of protected designations or origin and protected geographical indications' provided for in Council Regulation (EEC) No 2081/92 on the protection of geographical indications and designations of origin for agricultural products and foodstuffs, OJ L 76, 16.3.2001, p. 7.|
You can draw your own conclusions.
For what is worth, here is an interview with Stephen Welter from IFRA (the International Fragrance Association) from July 2012 where he maintains that the premium goal is the ensuring of safety for consumers (and where it transpires that IFRA is the final testing body which receives applications/suggestions on banning things from SCCS and other lobbies).
This is a most interesting excerpt from it, as per Stephen Weller:
"IFRA has in fact delivered some very positive results. Far from banning certain materials, IFRA has in fact been protecting them from potential bans. A material such as oak-moss would have disappeared if it hadn’t been for IFRA. The EU would have abolished it. In fact, thanks to IFRA’s work, many materials are still capable of being utilised as part of the palette of more that 3000 materials which perfumers can employ in their creative art. There are restrictions on the use of some substances but these are justified when balanced with the safe enjoyment of fragrances for all."
The text of the Parliament question can be found on this link.
Related reading on Perfume Shrine: Allergens and Perfume Industry Restrictions, The Bergamot Series
Poached this reference on the Fragrantica boards via member Kitty48
Monday, February 18, 2013
Trend Forecast: Autumn-Winter 2013-2014 Fragrance Notes
We're not even into spring yet (and February can be a dreary month to drag on seemingly forever) and the upcoming fragrance releases are shaping into resounding trends.
Seven Scent Ltd. (Manchester, United Kingdom) has released its biannual fine fragrance forecast for the key trends influencing 2013/14 autumn-winter fragrance collections, citing a number of fragrance notes ranging from wood accords to red berries.
“This season always encourages more intense, heavier, longer lasting fragrances to evoke a feeling of warmth and comfort during the colder months," said Bruce Furlonger, Seven Scent's head of marketing and innovation. "These traditional notes will still be evidence, but we have identified a number of creative fragrance accords which are growing in popularity with consumers and look set to influence direction."
Based on research into the world of fashion, design and fine fragrance, the company forecasts fragrances that feature:
*Tea accords: a move away from the classic or traditional green tea accords, towards a more unusual, sophisticated and rich fragrance
*Wood accords: the rich spice of oud is softened in a partnership with rose; a classic marriage of materials from middle eastern perfumery
*Leathers and suede: evoking a timeless elegance and quality in masculine scents
*Spices: such as cardamom, cumin and saffron inspired by the Middle East
*Amber: versatile and popular, it adds warmth and blends with oriental spices as well as soft musky notes
*Red berries: rich and dark notes will deliver an autumnal feel
Sources: http://www.sevenscent.co.uk./ , http://www.perfumerflavorist.com/fragrance/trends/170980631.html
Seven Scent Ltd. (Manchester, United Kingdom) has released its biannual fine fragrance forecast for the key trends influencing 2013/14 autumn-winter fragrance collections, citing a number of fragrance notes ranging from wood accords to red berries.
 |
| via x47.com |
“This season always encourages more intense, heavier, longer lasting fragrances to evoke a feeling of warmth and comfort during the colder months," said Bruce Furlonger, Seven Scent's head of marketing and innovation. "These traditional notes will still be evidence, but we have identified a number of creative fragrance accords which are growing in popularity with consumers and look set to influence direction."
Based on research into the world of fashion, design and fine fragrance, the company forecasts fragrances that feature:
*Tea accords: a move away from the classic or traditional green tea accords, towards a more unusual, sophisticated and rich fragrance
*Wood accords: the rich spice of oud is softened in a partnership with rose; a classic marriage of materials from middle eastern perfumery
*Leathers and suede: evoking a timeless elegance and quality in masculine scents
*Spices: such as cardamom, cumin and saffron inspired by the Middle East
*Amber: versatile and popular, it adds warmth and blends with oriental spices as well as soft musky notes
*Red berries: rich and dark notes will deliver an autumnal feel
 |
| via photosof.org |
Sources: http://www.sevenscent.co.uk./ , http://www.perfumerflavorist.com/fragrance/trends/170980631.html
Sunday, February 17, 2013
Etro Rajasthan, Floris Cherry Blossom, Tom Ford Sahara Noir: new fragrances
The newest Etro fragrance in a gloriously paisley-motif presentation that recalls its previous splendor and the regal decoration of Indian textiles, is called Rajasthan and vividly depicts the sumptuousness of a Maharaja's palace.
The fragrance notes of Etro's Rajasthan include lemon combined with rich Damascus rose and yellow mimosa on the top. The heart is reprising the mimosa via acacia farnesiana softened with the rosiness of pink pepper, while the base includes amber, labdanum and white musk.
Available from March 2013 in 100 ml Eau de Parfum.
Floris on the other hand is inspired by Japan and its tradition of sakura and hanami, the blossoming of the cherry tree and the celebrations surrounding it for their latest, Cherry Blossom fragrance.
The fresh, luminous blend of bergamot, orange and pink pepper gives way to the floral bouquet of cherry blossom, osmanthus, rose and peony with a fruity note of cherry. Warm sandalwood and musk finish off the composition.
Cherry Blossom by Floris is available as 100ml eau de parfum.
Tom Ford is augmenting his line of department store available fragrances with Sahara Noir, his newest perfume for women inspired by the Middle East.
This woody oriental is encased in a gold bottle that reprises the design of Black Orchid, Violet Blonde and White Patchouli, this time in gold.
Sahara Noir opens with bitter orange, sweet oasis grasses and Levantine cypress. The heart is composed of frankincense that is offset with cinnamon, Egyptian jamine and Moroccan rose. Sahara Noir finishes with cedar and vanilla tones.The name is inspired by the makeup shades by Tom Ford under the tag Sahara Haze.
 |
| via relaxnews.com |
Launch date is set for March 2013 for the Middle East and May for the rest of the world.
Tom Ford is also launching a new Private Blend soon, more details on which will be revealed as soon as they let me into it.
Friday, February 15, 2013
Prada Infusion d'Iris, Infusion d'Homme, Eau de Parfum Absolue, L'Eau d'Iris: differences between various Infusion d'Iris editions (with pics)
It's not an overstatement to claim that Infusion d'Iris has become the Chanel No.5 reference point of our times; alongside Narciso for Her by Narciso Rodriguez, it has not only garnered the status of a best-selling and well respected "modern classic", but it also has shaped the market via its elegant, sophisticated trail that blurs the line between wearer and added-on fragrance in perfect synchronicity with modern sensibilities.
The reality of an influential perfume release is that soon a horde of versions, new editions and differing concentrations crop up (much like with the confusing Narciso for Her editions, the Merveilles Hermes perfumes, the Kenzo Flower versions, the Dior J'Adore different editions etc.) to make things slightly harder for the consumer. Which to choose? And which was the one I once bought and loved, again? So here's a small guide into the various editions of the Prada Infusion d'Iris scent up to this point in time. Please note that for the purposes of this exercise I am not including any of the other, programmatically ephemeral Prada Infusion editions (Infusion de Rose, Infusion de Fleurs d'Oranger, Infusion de Vetiver, Infusion de Tubereuse), which you can read on in their own separate entries on the site.
Available as 50ml (1.7 fl.oz.), 100ml (3.4 fl.oz.) and 200ml (6.9 fl.oz.) Eau de Parfum. The same composition was issued as pure perfume/extrait de parfum in 3.5ml (0.12 fl.oz.) and 7.5ml (0.26 fl.oz.) sizes. Uniform, rectangular glass bottle with silvery metal tag with the Prada logo. Light green cap reprising the shade of the box.
Notes: Italian mandarin, Tunisian neroli, orange blossom, galbanum, lentisque (mastic), iris, cedar, vetiver, Somalian incense, Laotian benzoin.
Prada Infusion d'Homme Eau de Toilette (2008)
The men's version of Infusion d'Iris seems very similar to the original, a bit tweaked, with less of a powdery aspect.
Same bottle and presentation as the women's eau de parfum, but with Infusion d'Homme written on the box. Available in 50, 100, 200, 400, and 750 ml of Eau de Toilette.
Notes: Tunisian neroli, iris pallida, vetiver, cedar, incense, benzoin.
Prada Infusion d'Iris Eau de Toilette (2010)
A lighter interpretation of the original scent with a pronounced softness and powderiness, "cleaner" floral with even more pronounced soapy nuances and less of sharpness in the opening.
Available in 50, 100 and 200ml of eau de toilette. Uniform, rectangular glass bottle with silvery metal tag with the Prada logo.The glass is frosted, the cap is lighter in shade still, while the box is a rather more vivid green than the Eau de Parfum edition.
Notes: neroli, lily of the valley, violet, iris, heliotrope, galbanum, cedar.
Prada Infusion d'Iris Eau de Parfum Absolue (2012)
A richer, lightly sweeter and more orientalized take on the original eau de parfum edition, although NOT a more concentrated one as the name would imply. Infusion d'Iris Eau de Parfum Absolue is less powdery than the original with a more lady-like character and a hint of leather and baby oil rather than the incense trail of the original.
Available in 50 and 100ml bottles of eau de parfum. The bottle is the same but the metal tag with the Prada logo is in gold, as is the cap.
Notes: Tunisian neroli, orange blossom, Florentine iris, lentisque (mastic), Laotian benzoin, Venezuelan tonka bean, Madagascar vanilla, white musk.
Prada Infusion d'Iris L'Eau d'Iris (spring 2013)
Limited edition, inspired by iris and laurel in the gardens of Tuscany. 100ml of eau de toilette.
The bottle has a green degrade on the bottom which is different than the other uniform editions and the box has white floral designs on the green with the label & Prada heraldry in soft peachy pink, reprised in the cap.
Notes: Moroccan mint, Tunisian neroli, pink laurel, lily of the valley, rose, iris, orange blossom, white musk, woods, vanilla.
All the Infusion d'Iris editions/concentrations have been created by perfumer Daniela Roche Andrier (at Givaudan).
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