Marni Eases its Way into Perfume: new fragrance

Fashion house Marni will be launching its very first scent in February 2013 called "Marni". 

Marni’s creative director Consuelo Castiglioni told WWD: “It’s a perfume that’s quite individual, that doesn’t evoke anything in particular. It’s for a woman who dresses for herself, who doesn’t follow trends but is sophisticated and also maybe a little eccentric.” 

The fragrance looks to be "a blend of spicy and wood notes" that will probably appeal to the women who are bored of fruity florals, yet require something that will not disrupt their entourage too much. Perhaps this doesn't mesh with Marni's edgy sophistication or perhaps it might, it remains to be smelled.
Raquel Zimmermann at any rate has already been photographed by Nick Knight for the ad campaign, as shown above.
The full fragrance range will include purse spray, body lotion, and body cream as well as the standard eau de parfum and eau de toilette.

Perfumers' Relief Aid

Perfumer Anya McCoy and president of the Natural Perfumers' Guild brought to my attention a charitable cause that targets the victims of Superstorm Sandy involved in the perfumery and aromatherapy craft. The inspiration for organizing this came to her after reading a New York perfumer's account of her studio being destroyed by the storm. As a repeat hurricane 'victim' living in Miami, Anya identified and empathized with those whose lives are disrupted by Sandy.

You can find the full details on how to participate in Perfumers' Relief Aid on this link.

Guerlain L'Heure de Nuit (Les Parisiennes): new fragrance

As appearing in the Blogdorf Goodman catalogue, priced at 270$, the new Les Parisiennes addition is called L'heure de Nuit and it is a Thierry Wasser re-interpretation of Guerlain classic L'Heure Bleue (composed by perfumer Jacques Guerlain) . The classic L'Heure Bleue celebrates its 100th year anniversary this year and the team at Guerlain chose to celebrate with both a limited edition bottle (as shown on this link) and an Eau de Parfum re-orchestration as shown above. The new edition will be available in January 2013 and like all Les Parisiennes editions to be sold in Guerlain boutiques and wherever there are "espaces Guerlain", i.e. Blogdorf Goodman in NYC, the Epcot in Florida, in Las Vegas at the Bellagio, in Harrods in London etc.

Regarding the composition of L'Heure de Nuit, as mentioned on these pages, Thierry Wasser offers a new version: The powdery base notes are irresistibly endearing, as the L'Heure Bleue lovers like them so much. Under his leadership, the scent is sweet, illuminated with new freshness and modernity. The white musk mingles with iris. Heliotrope is combined with orange blossom accents to make it more marshmallow-like, powdery but with a gourmand note like a veil. The old version will be still available alongside the centenary editions in all concentrations for the fans.

Laduree Villes Porte-Bonheur: Scented Candles Inspired by the Metropolis

The four new limited edition candles by patisserie brand Ladurée, Villes Porte-Bonheur, are the stuff of dreams celebrating 150 years of the house; not only delicious smelling themselves, but also jet-setting you into four major international destinations: London, New York, Paris and Tokyo.

London candle 
The atmosphere of an English club where leather and wax scents reign. The evocation of an early twilight, nestling in a majestic Chesterfield sofa! The masculine chic with inimitable and unshakeable English spirit..."

New York candle
A strong and vivacious scent, an apple bite, the signature of a city, an homage to New Yorkers and their insatiable appetite for life.

Paris candle
A bewitching scent of tuberose, that of a femme fatale, as disturbing and unforgettable just like this beautiful and eternal city.

Tokyo candle
The subtle fragrance of tea, an indefinable delicate flavor, blending refinement and preciosity , the mysterious Japanese touch.
"Cities as a good luck charm"then, as the name denotes. A limited edition and priced at 48 euros each. Four scented candles enclosed in jars of black, pink, green and blue, each accompanied by a beautiful jewel box with drawings emblematic of the house.

Perfume-Makers Fear EU Legal Blow to the Industry Due to New Restrictions

"(These ingredients are) the spine of about 90 percent of fine fragrances," said Pierre Sivac, Chairman of the International Fragrance Association (IFRA), whose members include America's International Flavors & Fragrances and Switzerland's Givaudan. [source thanks to T.Sanchez]

Perfume-makers fear EU legal blow to the industry and the fear of restrictions is increasing:“All citizens are entitled to the same protection,” SCCS Working Group chairman Ian White, said. It recommended restricting the concentration of 12 substances – including citral, found in lemon and tangerine oils; coumarin, found in tropical tonka beans; and eugenol, found in rose oil – to 0.01 per cent of the finished product. And it proposed an outright ban on tree moss and oak moss, which provides distinctive woody base notes in Chanel’s No.5 and Dior’s Miss Dior."

“It is essential to preserve Europe’s olfactory cultural heritage,” LVMH said in an e-mailed statement, stressing nonetheless the well-being of consumers was a “major concern”.

What's more important is this: Any new laws curtailing the use of natural scents would also impact fragrance-producers such as Givaudan and Firmenich as well as Germany’s Symrise, Japan’s Takasago and Robertet in France’s scents-producing town of Grasse. Basically all the bulk buyers of raw materials, making the growers and developers of the banned essences obsolete and irrelevant in the market game.

Industry sources say they expected regulatory proposals by January 2014. However, the Commission declined to comment on a time frame for possible legislation. Trade associations including IFRA and Cosmetics Europe, whose members are perfume and cosmetics companies such as LVMH, are aiming to submit a joint industry proposal to the Commission by the end of 2012.

Of course it needs to be pointed out that the classic Miss Dior is nowhere to be found (at least on the mainstream circuit, it's still visible on the official site under Miss Dior L'Originale tag) in favor of the re-named Miss Dior Cherie (which circulates as simply Miss Dior now, so a marketing decision sounded the death knoll rather than the formula itself) and Chanel No.5 has been changed as well through the years.