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by Mike Perez
Some fragrances play the part of the “quiet, silent type”. Let me explain: Strangely, there are fragrances that I’ve sampled that smell like
nothing at all. Well…not nothing…but it smells as if a hole has opened up in the air and for a few minutes there is a blank space where the top notes belong. Like pushing PLAY on your IPod and watching the track begin (0:00, 0:01…) and no music plays. This has happened to me several times and I have no idea
why. However, most of the time (luckily) scents that start out this way usually turn out to be fragrances that I grow to love. Like
Mouchoir de Monsieur by Guerlain.
Before this I sampled the ‘classic’ lavender fougere by Guerlain:
Jicky. The Eau de Toilette was too excessively talcum powder prominent, and although I could appreciate the lavender, it felt uncomfortable and slightly matronly on me..
Jicky Eau de Parfum is a shocker: so embarrassingly civet prominent in the top notes, I was instantly repulsed. Waiting for those top notes to calm down took a bit too long and tiresome so I considered sampling the parfum next when I got a sample of MdM.
The first time I sprayed it – I smelled a tiny bit of the Guerlinade, but that was it. Nothing. Sample off? Nose fatigue? A second time, I smelled a bit of the lavender but nothing as spectacular as the
Aqua Allegoria Lavande Velours by Guerlain – a gushing lavender / purple violets that’s almost aroma therapeutic .
The 3rd time I smelled it I was instantly greeted with a totally different accord – the familiar style of perfumery like
Jicky – but swirled together into an entirely different pattern.
Jicky remixed into a sturdier more solidly constructed accord. Wonderful! Perfect balance, with all of the parts of
Jicky that I wanted: exceedingly high quality lavender, rosemary and bergamot; that unique fern aura; the rich Guerlinade – they are all here, but blended into the civet and woody notes in a richer and luxurious way. The fragrance evolves with a quiet, floral heart giving the patchouli a sophisticated, powdery nuance. Small parts of it remind me of wearing a refreshing eaux cologne, yet it simultaneously retains subtle and important details of Guerlain’s classic feminine fragrances. Not an easy feat.
It doesn’t scream for attention – it is essentially a subtle fragrance, hushed – making its presence known in tiny whiffs here and there, throughout the day, all day. It is, perhaps, for this reason why I couldn’t smell it when I first sampled it. There’s not a blast of aldehydes or synthetic woody ambers to diffuse this scent quickly. And the lavender, sometimes extremely medicinal and sharp, is soft.
I admit – I’m the quiet, silent type myself. At a cocktail party, you’ll find me off in the corner checking out the host’s CD collection instead of socializing and interacting with others. I speak very little but when I speak, I choose my words very carefully…looking you straight in the eyes.
I’m okay being this type of “guy”. It’s who I am. It’s who my father is. Problems come and go. Challenges are thrown my way... I have horrible days, just like everyone else does. I choose to keep all of that inside, most of the time – introspective, reflective and calm to everyone. Only when you get closer to me, do I open up, and only then will I reveal what’s going on underneath the surface.
Just like
Mouchoir de Monsieur.
Notes for Guerlain Mouchoir de Monsieur (1904):Top: lavender, lemon verbena, bergamot
Middle: jasmine, neroli, rose, tonka bean, patchouli, cinnamon
Base: Iris, amber, vanilla, oakmoss
King Juan Carlos I of Spain (depicted) was reputedly one of the few purveyors of Mouchoir de Monsieur before Guerlain decided to re-issue it more widely.
Pics of Cary Grant, Mouchoir de Monsieur bottle and Juan Carlos of Spain via Mike Perez
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Linda Pilkington, the founder and creator of Ormonde Jayne, has been searching for the perfect gardenia-tiare aromatics for long and has zeroed in Tiare Absolute from Tahiti (extracted in Tahiti, refined in the US and furthermore in France before it reaches the OJ studio in London) that provided the means to arrive at the desired result. Like precious jewels resting on dark green foliage, the unsurpassed beauty of the Tiare flower is hand picked whilst still unopened and laid in oil for 15 days to extract the fragrance. In case we have been wondering why a tropical floral amidst the season of fallen leaves and the mulled wine & spice allusions we crave, the brand reassures us: "Like the woman who wears Tiare, this is a perfume that totally ignores seasons and the time of day, a perfume so artfully blended and infinitely refined... but with a dash of scintillating appeal".
The news came in the form of an email by Laurie Pike who writes for the LA Magazine and I am quoting verbatim, because it's perfectly worded: "Malibu is known as an enclave for celebrities, a surf haven, the subject of a Courtney Love song. It's a surprise that the name of the storied town hasn't been used before for a fragrance. Can't you just imagine? Notes of sea air and orange blossoms, perhaps? Maybe a little essential oil of patchouli to reflect the hippie vibe? Now: consider Ft. Lauderdale, Florida. Evocative of spring break and, for old timers, the setting of the Connie Francis film Where the Boys Are. And, um, not much else. So why on earth is Pamela Anderson launching a fragrance called Malibu way the hell down there?.jpg)
I mean, whatev! I'm sure it will be claaaassy (please don't remind me how she must have smelled when she had filmed that little yachting clip with then husband Tommy Lee) and right at the synchronicity when Pamela is looking for scraps of fame in the dustbins of younger, comelier (ooops) contestants. 
Before this I sampled the ‘classic’ lavender fougere by Guerlain: Jicky. The Eau de Toilette was too excessively talcum powder prominent, and although I could appreciate the lavender, it felt uncomfortable and slightly matronly on me.. Jicky Eau de Parfum is a shocker: so embarrassingly civet prominent in the top notes, I was instantly repulsed. Waiting for those top notes to calm down took a bit too long and tiresome so I considered sampling the parfum next when I got a sample of MdM.
The 3rd time I smelled it I was instantly greeted with a totally different accord – the familiar style of perfumery like Jicky – but swirled together into an entirely different pattern. Jicky remixed into a sturdier more solidly constructed accord. Wonderful! Perfect balance, with all of the parts of Jicky that I wanted: exceedingly high quality lavender, rosemary and bergamot; that unique fern aura; the rich Guerlinade – they are all here, but blended into the civet and woody notes in a richer and luxurious way. The fragrance evolves with a quiet, floral heart giving the patchouli a sophisticated, powdery nuance. Small parts of it remind me of wearing a refreshing eaux cologne, yet it simultaneously retains subtle and important details of Guerlain’s classic feminine fragrances. Not an easy feat.
It doesn’t scream for attention – it is essentially a subtle fragrance, hushed – making its presence known in tiny whiffs here and there, throughout the day, all day. It is, perhaps, for this reason why I couldn’t smell it when I first sampled it. There’s not a blast of aldehydes or synthetic woody ambers to diffuse this scent quickly. And the lavender, sometimes extremely medicinal and sharp, is soft.
Travalo stands 8cm long and weighs 12g, made from durable aircraft grade aluminium, so durable enough to withstand drops and bumps without spillage. It holds 4ml which is the equivalent of 50 sprays (so they say, I haven't actually sprayed as many times myself), so perfect for a weekend getaway. And perhaps of importance these days, it's airflight approved, which means you can carry it with you onboard.
Travalo refillable atomisers come with a lifetime warranty for normal use (more at http://www.travalo.com/), they're available in 3 shades (pink, golden and silver) and they all include an integrated fill level window from which you can gauge how much is left in your container. They retail at 9.99£ each in the UK online and for 14.88 euros in Greece. I found them very practical, if a little expensive if you want to have multiples for your whole collection (I guess it all depends on just how vast that collection is!)
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