Vero profumo line ~Kiki: fragrance review

The new niche line I have promised you is none other than Vero Profumo, the spiritual child of Vero Kern, a Switzerland based aromatologist and Paris trained perfumer under the mentoring of none other than famous legend Guy Robert.
I was immensely flattered to find that Vero had been browsing my blog from time to time and as conversation about perfume has a way of broadening horizons and make leaps into the territory of the unknown, I came to virtually meet this kind, eloquent, thoughtful person and try out the precious perfumes.

The introduction that is offered on the impressive and quite artistic site (click here to take a look) is very telling of the motivation that exists behind any intelligent, artful creation. Because perfumery is commerce, but in this day and age we so often forget that it is also an art form: something that does not take account so much the name, the image, the advertising budget and subsequent campaign as the topmost qualities to determine the impact of a scent in the market, but also a product that can bring elation and beauty in one's life at the spritz of an atomiser. As Vero so rightfully says:

"Fragrances and aromas are with us all the time, wherever we go. They can touch us emotionally, even seduce us, and they influence our wellbeing.
Perfume is more than a temporary accessory. It is an unseen "calling card" representing your personality. An imaginary embrace, a "folie a deux" or maybe even a liaison dangereuse. A "je ne sais quoi" that follows like the tail follows a comet".

Indeed unravelling the ties that make up a beautiful composition is like opening up an oyster to find a luminous pearl hidden inside; hidden from the world for the delectation it seems of an inward need. Vero uses precious essences and natural compounds as much as possible realising that the quinta essentia that those materials harbour in their core is accounting for a richer, more multi-nuanced experience than the one rendered by only aromachemicals as is the case with most mainstream perfumery. Of course the synthetic molecules out of a lab can also be used to great aplomb and in this line they are not excluded, but they do not take center stage; rather aid the main act like a chorus in ancient drama ~echoing the main theme, commenting subtly on the protagonists, offering some coaxing when needed.
Her line of perfumes includes three loveable creations in extrait de parfum concentration that captured me in varying degrees: Kiki, Onda and Rubj. Each individual and unique, yet all bonded by an artistic signature that accounts for a certain style through the line. And that is usually the mark of someone who knows what they're doing.
There is a desire to revert to the classicism of yore that provided masterpieces that endure, yet seen through a modern look that makes them awaken the emotions of a contemporary sensibility.

It is in this context that I came upon Kiki, a precious gem of a perfume that has me hooked and hankering for a note that I am usually averse to: namely, lavender. As readers of PerfumeShrine may recall, Andy Tauer's Rêverie au Jardin is one of the few lavender scents that have managed to capture my heart exactly because he managed to render a soft embrace out of it, caressed in a warm scarf worn around the neck on a cool evening strolling along a peaceful garden with a loved one.

If Andy's lavender is a casual, feel good scent that is to be shared with your long-time lover while holding hands and breathing the evening provencial air, making dreams about the eminent future, envisioning a cozy existence of loving sharing, Kiki is more extroverted and naughty signifying the attitude of an illicit couple out for a good time in the city of Light, Paris.
Although lavender is herbaceous and somewhat medicinal by nature (albeit the user of most commercial mass-market products would be hard pressed to realise that, as it is usually swamped by synthetic vanillin to make it cuddly), in Kiki it is clear and distinct for a long while but never becomes bitter nor unpleasant. The undercurrent of a bodily warmth hides in there and some muskiness that retains the sweet smell of sheets in which you have rolled over with your lover and later eaten on while on a Paris tantalizing naughty trip. It is redolent of sexy but classy lacy underwear in ivory that has been kept in those powdered-scented big cardboard boxes with tissue paper, to be used with the sole intent of getting out of it real soon. And if there is some caramel suryp in the room, it will see good use as well.

As the scent progresses interweaving elements of slightly sweet fruity notes that do not overwhelm it becomes intoxicating, like a promenade along the Rive Gauche and the Monmarte, trying to visualise the infamous Kiki de Montparnasse (real name Alice Prin) and her crazy 1920s days: a model, a lover, a nightime queen.
The lasting power and sillage are amazing, as this wafts caramely whiffs with powdery opoponax-patchouli accords throughout the day and into the night, whispering sweet nothings into the ear of the object of a dangerous and irresistible affair. As it can be shared by both sexes, it becomes a memento of a time spent in pure sensualism and pleasure in the big city. Who would have thought that when saying "lavender"? I knew you wouldn't be able to come up with an answer to that one...



Vero Profumo fragrances can be sampled/bought in Switzerland and neighbouring countries through the site. You can also contact Vero at profumo@veroprofumo.com.
Plans to bring the line to the US are scheduled for mid 2008.
Prices for Kiki extrait de parfum are 105 euros for 7.5ml and 165 euros for 15ml.


Next post will tackle another Vero Kern perfume.



Top pic from film Hors de Prix, courtesy of athinorama.gr
Pic of Kiki courtesy of kaismart.com/journal

Treasured features for Trésor

It was just a few days ago that Perfume Shrine was talking about revamped ad campaigns, inspired by the news that Kate Winslet, the quintessential English Rose of tremendous thespian abilities had been chosen to represent the almost classic fragrance by the house of Lancôme, Trésor.

I always thought she would bring pathos and freshness in anything commercial she might touch, remembering her in such roles as the romantically exalted Marianne in Sense and Sensibility or the outwardly rebellious, inwardly sensitive Clementine in the Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind". Even for a quite heavy handed composition as the original Trésor eau de parfum by Sophia Grojsman, a fragrance that first appeared in 1990 to subsequent throes of overpopularity that made it a little banal. Perhaps now is the time to lure in new customers who will see it with virginal eyes.
For your delectation, here are the first pics that have been sleuthed for you. Enjoy!


Pics originally uploaded at jjb.yuku.com

Kelly Calèche: fragrance review

The haunting, eerie feeling of Eric Satie's Gnossienne no.1 is tied to my mind to smells that resemble Kelly Calèche, the new feminine scent by Hermès, created by acclaimed house perfumer Jean Claude Ellena.

Like the ethereal yet stangely hypnotic nuance of the musical piece, this new perfume takes sparse elements and interweaves them into a complex and evocative piece of abstract, almost atonic art.

The name of the fragrance derives from the notorious Kelly bag, made famous by Grace Kelly who used it to hide her pregnancy on a photo shoot for Life mag in the 50s and somehow the name stuck. Calèche is of course the delicate and classy floral aldehydic chypre created by Guy Robert in 1961 which takes its cue from the fineest type of carriage (however the one depicted on the house's logo since 1945 is le gran duc).

Since Hermès begun its illustrious career in 1837 selling bridles and harnesses, catering to the equinine rather than the sartorial -for which it is more widely known today- leather scents had been into the core of the house for a long time.
Equipage (1970) is linked to that tradition mostly by name while Bel Ami (1986) is indeed encompassing the warm tannic, bitter notes of leather for discerning males. However a leather scent for women was missing from the line-up and Kelly Calèche was to be the new addition to the pantheon.

The luxurious and haughty manner of previous Hermès perfumes like 24 Faubourg for instance has been substituted with a sparseness and minimalism that is due to the signing up of Jean Claude Ellena as house perfumer fairly recently, a move that resulted in such offerings as the mineral-smelling Terre d'Hermès, the quietly serene Un Jardin en Mediteranée , the limpid, tart wonder that is Un Jardin sur le Nil and the restraintely gourmandish Elixir des Merveilles. But maybe he is mostly known for his Hèrmessences, a pleiad of scents that are selectively distributed only in Hermès boutiques, which present facets of different textiles tranlsated into an olfactory ambience. Needless to say that Perfume Shrine has long been a fan of mr. Ellena's work.


In this one he was inspired by a passage from writer Jean Giono's Jean Le Bleu. There the narrator talks of his departed father, a cobbler, who is "making soles in angel leather." (quote according to Woman's Wear Daily). The muse sounds incredibly alluring and it has created an anticipation across perfumephiles like no other scent for its upcoming release in summer. Luckily provident procurers have made it possible for me to obtain a sample and test it in the convenience of my own home which is always a plus.

The official notes are:

mimosa, narcissus, iris, lily of the valley, climbing rose, tuberose, leather

.

If I am to be honest, I have to say that this is not exactly what a die-hard leather fan who likes to don breeches and carry a whip, like the one depicted in the naughtily tantalizing yet very classy ad of the house, would imagine. The leather is so subdued as to make this incredibly wearable by all, eminently pleasant and very easy to adopt by women, as easy as a pair of driver's kid gloves in a buttery shade.
Men who like to dabble in women's scents unabashedly (and so they should) will find this a little too whispery for their tastes, perhaps. It's a very soft caress.
The floral notes do not make their appearence simultaneously. At the opening a limpid, slightly tart and a tad bitter citrusy note, comparable to the green mango-grapefruit note of Un Jardin sur le Nil , is opening the act to lure us into the ethereal dance of the flowers in attendance. In contrast to the afore mentioned scent however it doesn't last throughout, giving way to notes of powdery iris for a short while and then a honeyed mimosa note, so charming, so delicate, that plays tricks along with slightly greener blossoms. The soft touch of blanched suede is emerging slowly whispering words of cherubic innocence as the coda.

Like Satie's piece Kelly Calèche retains a coolness that is not to be mistaken with haughtiness. It is rather the slightly melancholic gaze of a woman who would also wear Après l'ondee by Guerlain. And this is no mean feat in my books.

Kelly Calèche makes its debut at the new Wall Street Hermès store on Friday June 21st 2007, then distributed more widely in other Hermès boutiques in August while it will be available in high-end specialty stores in the US, undivulged as yet.
According to Woman's Wear Daily :

"The new fragrance's lineup includes a 50-ml. eau de toilette spray for $75, a 100-ml. edt spray for $110, a 200-ml. body lotion for $65, a 200-ml. bath and shower gel for $45 and a 100-ml. spray deodorant for $40.
Prices are for the U.S."

You can purchase samples and small decants though through "Fragrant Fripperies".

Pic of Grace Kelly courtesy of Quorbis and ad pic from Hermès advertising.
Youtube clip originally uploaded by muzikahram.

Announcement: Parfums d'Armando Martinez widely available now

PerfumeShrine has always strived to veer off the beaten track and find first the wonders of tomorrow or the long-forgotten treasures of yesterday.
In the former category, parfums d'Armando Martinez, an artisanal perfumer from Nevada, US who works with reverence and admiration for the classics and nouveau art-niche, have been proven to be the object of admiration here on two occassions.
First his lovely fluffy makeup smell of Maquillage (reviewed in detail here ~ please note that since the review took place the lasting power has been revamped and boosted) and then his exquisite, masterful floral aldehyde named Pillow of Flowers (reviewed in detail here).
In the meantime he went on to create Satyr, a unique fruity animalic chypre.
His newest wonderful scent, Benefactor will be reviewed on this page shortly. Stay tuned!

It is with great pleasure that I announce today that Parfums d'Armando Martinez are now available for sampling and purchase at the First in Fragrance/ Aus Liebe zum Duft site.
Click here to go to the page directly.

They retail for 69 euros for 50ml of Eau de Parfum and samples are available for 3 euros each according to the policy of the site.

Pic comes from the FIF/Aus liebe zum duft site.

Jasmine series: part 5 ~fresh jasmine suggestions

After a hopefully in depth exploration of richer and heavier jasmine fragrances, it's time to concentrate on some that are airier and more transparent, fit for those days when fragrancing oneself should seem like a breeze and not a serious seduction mission. They also lend themselves well to hot climates and soaring temperatures, if you happen to live in those conditions take note. Very often hedione or cis-jasmone (which has an almost anise or liquorice smell by itself) is used to render the illusion of smelling a live jasmine vine.

In this exploration Blush by Marc Jacobs is the first to come in mind, like a gauze of light salmon/peach , reflecting the skin like tones of the opalescent bottle and evoking a similar mood. The reality of the flower is synthesized in a lab, but the result is akin to smelling the vine from a distance on a warm evening with a citrusy top note like that from a nearby citrus tree. It has a dewiness (frankly much better than that in Jacob's eponymous scent centered on gardenia) and a translucence that usually lends itself to an instant likeability by lots of people and it can be worn on many occassions effortlessly. Of course the development is not the mercurial beast one would hope for, rather it progresses linearly, as we say in perfume-speak; meaning it does not change much on its stay on the skin ending on the predictable white musks of most commercial perfumery offerings. In the Intense version the flower elements have been amplified and the sillage/trail left behind is more intense, however I find that some of the loveliness of the original is lost, like watercolours of a painting of a flower bouquet that is copied in pastels; somehow the airiness is forever gone.

Another fresh soliflore jasmine is Annick Goutal Le Jasmin. The Goutal line of scents has a rich lineage in fragrances that smell fresh, true, crystalline and transparent in the best possible sense. They project a youthful approach even when they are more mature smelling and they are based on good ingredients that are steeped in the natural cornucopia of aromas. In that vein, the brand under the proficient baguette of Isabelle Doyen has produced a range of limited edition soliflores, based on the most precious and loveliest blossoms imaginable: Des Lys (lilies), La Violette, Le Cheuvrefeuille (honeysuckle), Le Jasmin, Le Muguet(lily of the valley) and the latest - this year's Néroli. They all merit their own space and we will return to them on subsequent series, however Le Jasmin is highlighted today because of its green tonality and sheer prettiness that makes for a very worthy acquisition in the pantheon of soliflore jasmines. The addition of waxy magnolia petals is an inspired choice along with a slightly spicy note that official info tells us it's ginger. I do not have an affinity for strong ginger notes in perfumes, so this is rather subdued to my nose, because I do like the effect quite a bit. The main drawback is that it being an eau de toilette and a light fragrance by nature, it somehow falls a little flat pretty soon and the lasting power is not the greatest. Since it is so lovable however I could imagine it being refreshed all day long with no problems.

Another crowd pleaser seems to be Pink Jasmine by Fresh. Well, Fresh their brand name is and "fresh" aromas is what they usually produce. To be totally honest I haven't been too impressed with their line in the past, apart from the very likable apothecary bottles with the cute "handwritten" style labels and the long necks with the matte silver sprayer. From their lineup I had liked the watery ambiance of Cucumber Baie (an unlikely combination that nevertheless managed to smell nice), Violet Moss with its earthy dusty smell and their Patchouli Pure which was cuddly and deep. Their Sugar versions (Sugar, Lemon Sugar, Sugar Blossom, Lychee Sugar) were too sweet and lamentably artificial to my nose; so my exploration of the line pretty much ended with last year's rather unique Memoirs of a Geisha which was nice but not enough attention-grabbing for me.
Pink Jasmine is quite new and it takes a soft approach that is not too sweet managing to inject a clean and shower fresh element with peony and magnolia bowls of petals; despite the initial impression upon first spray ~which might fool you into a false sense of an intense citrusy sharp floral. It lasts well with an aqueous impression similar to En Passant, but perhaps it is a little pricey for what you ultimately get.

For Sylvia Chantecaille, there are two roads she could go by and she chose the less travelled by...or perhaps not. Actually she chose both in a way. The heavier, more tropical one with her Frangipane and the lighter, airier with Le Jasmin by Chantecaille. Since today we're concentrating on the more crystal-like florals centered on jasmine, it seems a propos to discuss the latter's merits and shortcomings.
To its advantage it has a refreshing lightness and greenery freshness aplenty which can never be blamed for producing a headache; the inclusion of other floral notes, notably a little bit of tuberose are subdued enough to not project over the jasmine solo. However there is a touch of lily-like artificiality (which regrettably seems inherent in the lighter end of the jasmine spectrum, due to the very nature of the production methods) and the lasting power as it exits on a slight oakmoss and amber note is not tremendously satisfying either, which is a pity for the price.

In the noble stable of Bulgari only thoroughbreds are kept, so it made an impression on me that one of the versions of their venerable Bulgari pour femme, namely Voile de Jasmin fell short of my expectations that had been raised by their other version Rose Essentielle ; which has been excellent. Alas, Voile de Jasmin does not make any ripples in the pond of jasmine scents and it doesn't particularly smell of jasmine petals either. It just makes the initial composition of Pour Femme a little more soapy clean and lighter which is not really what I call progress. Stick to their Rose essentielle version if you really want your Bulgari fragrance floral.

Miller Harris came out with Jasmine Vert for her private exclusive line in her London boutique and I have to say that her translucent compositions usually use good ingredients that smell true. This is no exception and although there has to be some chemical tampering with the notes, the result is not at all artificial. The freshness is real, tangible and quite alluring like in her Fleur du Matin fragrance which marries honeysuckle to champagne-like citrusy notes for a refreshing day fragrance similar to the feeling of Cristalle. In the fragrance at hand, Jasmin Vert , if we are to continue the Chanel parable, it is greener in the vein of Chanel no.19 or Gardenia (constructed around jasmine despite the name), albeit very short on the complexity and depth, especially compared to those of the former.
However for a warm summer day when you want to let your hair down and just revel in the brightness of it all it is appropriately fitting.

L'artisan Parfumeur is famous for the limpid, light, diaphanous composition of their scents and alongside their heavier, intense La Haie Fleuri they have also produced the lovelingly ethereal Thé pour un été (=tea for summer). As its name suggests it's based on jasmine tea more than jasmine petals themselves the way florals are and along with lemony overtones it forms a decaffeinated sipping brew that can be likened to Bulgari's Eau Parfumée or a fresh Eau Sauvage that can also be worn by both sexes. Light, fleeting and not so ephemeral any more -as the brand decided to include it in their mainstay line after a stint as a limited summer edition following its success at the counter- it is meant to be used with abandon, chilled in the fridge for the hot days of summer ahead. Indulge!

OTHER HONOURABLE MENTIONS:
Due to lack of space or inability to categorise them in a specific pigeon-hole the following scents are simply mentioned as noteworthy along a jasminophile's expedition in the pursuit of jasmine-rich fragrances.
Those include the clear cut Jasmal by Creed, the simultaneously fresh and animalic paradox Night blooming Jasmine by Floris, the misnomer that is Chanel Gardenia, the happiness of youth that is represented in the tuberosy La chasse aux papillons(=chassing butterflies) by L'artisan (in the Eau de toilette concentration), the worthy limited edition of Givenchy Millesime Harvest Jasmine of India 2005 and the new exclusive by Armani éclat de Jasmin.
Perhaps a subsequent visit to all of those is in order, of which you will be notified in due course. For the time being our jasmine pilgrimage ends here. Hope you enjoyed it as much as I did.



Artwork:
Top "Girl" by greek painter Nicolaos Gyzis courtesy of Wikipedia and bottom "Reflecting" by Steve Hanks courtesy of allposters.com