Prompted by the upcoming exhibition Esxence, the first perfumers' exhibition held in Milan (you can read details here), I am honouring two talented and prolific perfumers who are emeging as major players in the industry: Christophe Laudamiel and Pierre Guillaume.
Christophe Laudamiel, Fine-Fragrance Perfumer at International Flavors & Fragrances Inc. since year 2000, will be participating in Esxence with Humiecki&Graef, an emerging niche brand. Here, courtesy of Seed Magazine, Christophe Laudamier talksin the “Design for the Invisible“ lecture, in occasion of Mind 08 – The design and Elastic Mind Symposium. He talks about the sense of smell, its mystery, our infinitive capability to smell and how perfumery is trying to harness and enhance those capabilities in different ways, in fine fragrance, as well as fragrance designed to enhance interiors or inspired by other artistic project; even how dolls or cleavage are "alive" due to their smell! With a portfolio of scents as varied as Estee Lauder Youth Dew Amber Nude, Island Michael Kors (with Loc Dong), S-ex for S-perfumes, Clinique Happy Heart, Ralph Lauren Polo Blue (with Carlos Benaim), Abercrombie & Fitch Fierce and collaborating on the recreation of scent-impessions for the Thierry Mugler coffret on "Perfume, Story of a Murderer", he's extremely versatile!
And on this video Chandler Burr talks with Christophe Laudamiel about the coffret based on the novel by Suskind, Das Parfum, turned into the film mentioned above.
Pierre Guillame is already touting his manifesto with the slogan on his own site Pafumerie Generalle: "Exhale your Difference". Here he is talking (in French with Italian subtitles) about one of his fragances, Louanges Profanes, which can be seen on his site. (Clip via Extrait.it)
Since I really love Pierre Guillaume's Cozé, Musc Maori, Un Crime Exotique and a couple of others for Parfumerie Generalle, pehaps I should return with more personal impessions!
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I especially like the title of Laudamiel's lecture; wish I had been in NY/MOMA listening to him, and wish to smell more of his scents! S-ex & Fierce & more.. Would be nice to hear what you have to say about them!
ReplyDeleteThank you for drawing attention to/linking/sharing these interviews. Am going to press into service the translation skills of my French-learning son...
ReplyDeleteI am one who has really enjoyed and appreciated what Pierre Guillaume is doing with PG; many of his scents are personal favorites, including Bois Blond and (be still my heart) L'Ombre Fauve. Even if I don't "like" a particular PG, I find myself appreciating it, and trusting it is valuable to someone. Have not yet had a chance to try your favorites; will move them up my list!
S,
ReplyDeletethat lecture was quite interesting in a multitude of ways and the whole Symposium was a fascinating concept. I feel that not often perfume and smell are dis-associated from the (alas, very prevalent) notion of attracting material into more esoteric issues. Largely a case of semiotics but also of biology/psychology, making it very interesting indeed.
As to Laudamiel's scents, S-ex is quite interesting -if not very wearable, but that wasn't the intention I bet- marrying the marine to the "dirty", quite strange and unusual. I haven't smelled Fierce (what a name though, huh?)
S,
ReplyDeleteI wish I had the time to do the translation to the video for the readers myself. (didn't this time, alas)
I like those you mention as well and I agree he's doing an interesting work with his brand. It's a pity that some of the very best ones belong to the Private Collection...But rest assured I will occupy myself with mr.Guillaume and his scents here soon. :-)
Oooh, a teaser...well, Helg, I shall just have to find ways to entertain myself until you share your experiences with Mr. Guillaume...
ReplyDelete...and if you chat with him directly, will you mention that Private Collection issue? I don't like being a panicked consumer. ;)
OK, S, I'll do my best! :-)
ReplyDelete