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The second eponymous fragrance by niche haven Aedes de Venustas in Greenwich Village, New York City is launching this June and is inspired by the Bismarck variety of iris, also known by the name of Nazarene iris thanks to growing in the mountains east of Nazareth, which piqued Karl Brad's (the co-founder of Aedes) interest.
German perfumer Ralf Schwieger (with the perfume-producing company Mane), is winner of the Fragrance Foundation France Prix des Experts, 2012, creator of such successful fragrances as Eau des Merveilles (Hermès), Lipstick Rose (Frédéric Malle), The Afternoon of a Faun, and Philippine Houseboy aka Fils de Dieu (Etat Libre d' Orange) and Orange Sanguine (Atelier Cologne). Previously Aedes de Venustas had employed Bertrand Duchaufour for their first eponymous fragrance, in a flacon of deep purple glass. This time the bottle of Iris Nazarena takes on a fittingly dark grey tint.
In Aedes de Venustas Iris Nazarena ambrette, with its facets of pear, rose and musk, is luminous on the top notes while juniper berries introduce the theme of incense. The fresh and vivid green star anise evokes the stylized leaves and stems of the flower with woody notes such as patchouli and vetiver alluding to the roots in the earth. The clay like earthiness is further warmed by touches of cloves and oud.
Notes for Iris Nazarena by Aedes de Venustas:
Top: iris, ambrette, juniper berries, star anise
Heart: leather, oud, cloves, rose de Mai
Base: incense, woods, musk, vetiver
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Chanel no 19 a reference iris?
ReplyDeleteIn any case, this Aedes sounds like an iris-less iris, and quite spicy. But I'll certainly smell when I go to NYC and Aedes.
cacio
I love Mr. Schwieger's work, and that grey bottle is gorgeous. I will have to get a sample of this!
ReplyDeleteM,
ReplyDeletein my humble opinion (and that of many much more knowledgable perfumers) No.19 IS a reference iris. It's chokeful of it, at the very least.
The new scent does look like it won't be the standard iris we have come to expect or in any case just an iris, more of a mix with no photorealistic aspirations. That might actually be a good thing ;-)
Marla,
ReplyDeletethe bottle is indeed gorgeous. I love the detail of the spray and the cap.
I'm hopeful as to the juice! :-)