Acqua di Parma Colonia Ambra: fragrance review & draw

Tucked among the crags of western Portofino Promontory is the town of Camogli, which the novelist Charles Dickens once declared "the saltiest, roughest, most piratical little place. " Its sea dog mercenaries were sought after to rival the fleet of the ally city state Genoa. Ambergris, that adventure in a bottle for armchair mariners, is at the very core of inspiration for Colonia Ambra by Acqua di Parma, which I discovered this year and immediately liked.

via

That's not coincidental, as ambergris, the prized animal exudation from sperm whales for perfume, is a scent I could (and do) wear neat on my skin in alcohol tincture. Dedicated to a gentleman who loves to travel and explore new cultures, Colonia Ambra is part of the "ingredients themed editions" of the classic Colonia by Acqua di Parma (The other two editions include Colonia Leather and Colonia Oud, also good).

The mention of the other editions is not without merit; if you like Colonia Oud, this edition, Colonia Ambra, is like the oud base has been stripped off but the smoky woody goodness remains, layered rich and thick and nuzzling on the skin. The cypriol addition makes its presence known (as does patchouli) and the warm materials shift the direction into a woody oriental, milder and softer than Colonia Oud. I could very well wear this frequently; it's refined and lasting without elbowing anyone out of the way, yet it is no wallflower either.

Although the skeleton for the classic Colonia is one of stark freshness, the citrus fruits in Colonia Ambra have purposefully lost their sparkle in order to solely render a "lift" to the warm, musky aura of ambergris, musk and patchouli which are at the very nucleus of this composition. One can't really describe the notes one by one, as the blend is relatively tight and the overall effect is one much more refined than the allusion to Camogli would suggest.

Fans of amber and vanilla scents in men's fragrances should explore Colonia Ambra. This is marketed to men, but I find that it can be shared by women perfectly, like boyfriend jeans or a nice velvet jacket for evenings over one's chiffon top to keep the chill out.
The projection and sillage are moderate, but the staying power is very satisfying given the posh price.

Fragrance Notes for Colonia Ambra by Acqua di Parma:
Top Notes: Orange, bergamot, petit grain
Heart Notes: Rose accord, cypriol, virginia cedarwood, patchouli
Base Notes: Ambergris, sandalwood, cistus labdanum, vanilla, musk

This is what Acqua di Parma says about the scent of Colonia Ambra:

"An original, elegant fragrance inspired by the distinctive combination of two olfactory themes that are bursting with personality - the citrus notes of Colonia blend with deep sensuality of Ambergris, an ancient essence that is extremely rare and precious. Its characteristic scent is owed by the effect of the ocean and the wind, shaping and caressing this precious substance for many years before casting it ashore on the world’s beaches. The zesty citrus top notes of orange and bergamot evolves into a warm heart with cedar wood, rose and patchouli. Sublimated by the perfect harmony of Ambergris with sandalwood, warmed by the soft accents of vanilla, this new Eau de Cologne Concentrée reveals its unique personality in base notes of inimitable elegance and refinement."

This edition of Colonia Ambra comes as a natural spray of Eau de Cologne Concentrée, encased in a beautiful luxurious fabric-covered box, available in a 100ml or 180ml size.

One lucky reader will receive a 5ml vial by leaving a comment below this post, stating their views on fragrances inspired by animal essences. Draw is international and ends Wednesday 23rd midnight. 

Related reading on PerfumeShrine:
Ambergris: Definition and Musings on "Whale Vomit" (?) 
Perfumes with Ambergris, the mysterious "grey amber" note
Acqua di Parma: fragrance reviews & news
Frequent Perfumery Questions on Perfume Shrine
Cypriol/Nagarmotha: Smokiness of Wood

Christmas Wishlists: Mine and Yours

Santa Baby can't get more busy this year. I haven't even had the time to sample most of what I wanted to, being so terribly busy and all, not to mention no budget for waste (so that puts a moratorium on unsniffed purchases). Santa might do the sampling for me as far as I'm concerned this time. I'm sure not everyone is on the same page though.

But for Christmas's sake, and making it easy on those who can and would gift us with the things we want and need, I'm sharing with you my own Christmas & New Year wish list, including style, fashion, books, movies, perfume and beauty. And I urge you to share your wish list too in the comments! I'd love to read it during the longer days of the holidays and note down interesting things to try out next.

My first wish - my foremost wish for which all other wishes eclipse- is for peace. Peace now that people drown in the Aegean every single day. Let's effectuate the change we are.

On to more prosaic things.

My perfume wish list has already been posted on Fragrantica in All I Want for Christmas. (click the link to see) Rather short and to the point; 5 new perfumes only. They should fit a stocking, shouldn't they?

But I have a few more things to be grateful if they make an appearance under the Christmas tree.

This smokey eye palette from Bobbi Brown has the requisite shades for shading but thanks to their cool undertone they won't look muddy on my lids.It's called Smokey Cool Eye Palette (pretty easy to remember huh?) and one can find it at Sephora and here on Amazon.

If Santa is really generous I'd love this Tahitian grey-classic white-South Sea gold pearl bracelet by Mikimoto. Stunner!

Seven Brief Lessons on Physics by Carlo Rovelli was initially the inner geek's call to polish up my physics; a subject neglected since high school. But the aesthete in me admits arrogantly that it was the book jacket which caught my eye first.Available at Barnes & Noble and on Amazon last I checked.

These Sur La Table fruit grind graters are great for any of us who loves grating citrus rind with gusto only tolater  find their kitchen full of small bits scattered everywhere. I also hope that it will allow me to actually collect the the remainder grinded bits and be able to tincture them in alcohol for using in condiments and dishes. How's that for a nifty idea combining scent and food in one?

Finally a ticket for a springtime trip to Japan to experience the Wisteria Tunnel at the Kawachi  Fuji Gardens in Kitakyushu. That would be heavenly indeed....

Please share your wishlists in the comments below this post. I'd love to read them all!

The winner of the draw...

...for the Aftel book & essences kit is Bibi Maizoon. Congratulations! Please e-mail me using AFTEL DRAW in the title of the mail with your shipping data so I can arrange having your prize sent to you by Mandy.

Thanks everyone for the enthusiastic participation and till the next one!

An Intimate Conversation with Gisele Bundchen About Fragrance

Chanel has uploaded a video with face of Chanel no.5 perfume Brazilian supermodel Gisele Bundchen where wrapped in a huge soft wool blanket (and later wearing a thin cashmere jumper) she talks about her rapport to nature and to scent. She talks about a mom's fragrance (her mom's and her own) and how the scent of wet earth after the rain (i.e.geosmin) affects her. She also opens her East Coast home for the camera for the first time. Worth a look.

Perfume Book and Companion Kit of Essences Giveaway: Fragrant the Secret Life of Scent

This is the first of our Perfume Shrine giveaways for the holiday season and it's going to warm the cockles of the winner's heart; because it not only involves a perfume book that's sure to be referenced again and again along the way but it's also accompanied by a compaion kit that includes 5 natural essences among them the rare and precious ambergris for a better understanding of how perfumery works. The book in question? Fragrant the secret life of Scent by Mandy Aftel. Mandy has generously offered to give one signed copy of her book and a companion kit of essences to one lucky reader of Perfume Shrine.
So if interested don't miss your chance by writing a comment below this post. Draw is open internationally till Monday midnight and winner will be announced next week.

via rimanlibrary.com

The book doesn't simply address the fans of natural perfumery but aims at the hearts of everyone with an interest in the sensual and spiritual aspects of scents. It's more of a journey into discovering what the world around has to offer as well as the mystical bond between the senses and our grasp of the cosmos. Using scent as the medium Aftel with her usual sensuous prose explores basic essences and rarer or more exceptional ones with the same passion for observation and analytical deconstruction. Without requesting insider knowledge or expertise in perfumery jargon Fragrant takes the reader into a 5 part adventure; each punctured by a single momentous essence that can turn into fragrance.

Cinnamon marks with its spicy trail the beginning of man's search for the exotic East and the wealth it offers.

Mint is the smell of familiarity. Know throughout the world and marking home and homeland mint can act as a powerful symbol for that which is luxurious in its easing into the comfort of the "here and now".

Incense stands for mysticism and for a spiritual endeavor. The smoky trail these resins produce which rises in the air is our gateway to the realm of the gods.

Ambergris from the whale is the seafaring adventure turned prized loot; a substance as soft as a sable coat and as sensuous as bare supple skin itself. It's symbolizes human curiosity and evokes all the quirkiness that animal essences stand for.

Jasmine stands for beauty and the unapologetic pleasure in savoring that beauty; whether it be permanent or ethereal... like the vapors of a perfume.

Little anecdotes are dotting the pages and recipes for easily composed perfumes (in a variety of forms such as solid or oil or alcohol based) are included. A few of them involve the addition of one rare and unexpected ingredient into an otherwise familiar mix; like the chocolate drink laced with ambergris that Charles the I of Englad used to enjoy!

Fragrant the Secret Life of Scent is a book that should be part of every well versed library on scent and olfaction but also a welcome gift to anyone wanting to explore the sensuous facets of our everyday life.