Talking to the Experts: The World of Fragrance Today and Tomorrow

The Fragrance Foundation hosted the inaugural Fragrance Forum “Taking to the Experts: The World of Fragrance Today and Tomorrow,” at the French Institute / Alliance Française on Thursday, October 15, 2015.

All images credited to Casey Kelbaugh

Allure Magazine Editor-in-Chief, Linda Wells, led distinguished panelists Daniel Annese, Global President, Aramis and Designer Fragrances at The Estée Lauder Companies; Alexandre Choueiri, President, International Designer Collections at L’Oréal USA; Linda Levy, Omni Group Vice-President/DMM-Fragrances at Macy’s, Inc.; and Jerry Vittoria, President, Fine Fragrances North America at fragrance house Firmenich, Inc., in a wide ranging discussion on the current state of the fragrance industry and how best to meet shifting consumer expectations.

While the discussion touched on millennials, the Latino customer, hits and misses, storytelling, the importance of the juice and more, the overarching message was the need to focus on the customer.

“Our biggest area of opportunity is the customer,” said Linda Levy, Omni Group Vice-President/DMM – Fragrances at Macy’s, Inc. “The customer is the focus and center of every decision that we make.”

All images credited to Casey Kelbaugh

“It’s not one size fits all anymore,” added Alexandre Choueiri, President, International Designer Collections at L’Oréal USA, “Customers want to feel special”
The men’s category is seen as an area with growth potential.

“There is a significant percentage of users in North America who only use fragrances that are gifted to them,” said Jerry Vittoria, President, Fine Fragrances North America at fragrance house Firmenich, of men. “We need effective training tools to educate the consumer.” 

Millennials continue to be a hot topic. 

According to Daniel Annese, Global President, Aramis and Designer Fragrances at The Estée Lauder Companies – which has set up an advisory board of 500 millennials - “The best way to connect with consumers is online.” “But,” he added, “They need consistency in what they see. The experience online and in print should match what they are greeted with in-store.”

 “What’s really different today is it’s all about the experience and it’s all about sharing,” added Linda Levy. “A review online means everything to a consumer.”

Choueiri challenged the panel not to think of it as a choice between online or brick-and-mortar. “We send samples out online,” he said, “but people are buying in-store.”
Fragrance Foundation President, Elizabeth Musmanno summed up the evening, “It is about the story, but it’s still about the juice. Ultimately, we need that juice to be fabulous.”

All images credited to Casey Kelbaugh

The Fragrance Forum series in an opportunity for the fragrance industry to come together around topics and discussions that have a direct impact on the business.

“Part of our mission at The Fragrance Foundation is to inform and enlighten,” Musmanno said, “We are honored to have had such a distinguished group of panelists join us, whose breadth of knowledge and insight allows us to dive deeply into the issues surrounding the industry today.”

During Thursday’s Fragrance Forum, the Fragrance Foundation continued the long tradition of the fragrance industry giving back, raising money to benefit UNICEF – The United Nations Children’s Fund, which provides long-term humanitarian and developmental assistance to children and mothers in need.

The Truth About Patchouli Chypres or Floral Patchoulis: Not So Recent After All

Many perfume aficionados have noticed the ubiquitness of patchouli oil in modern fragrances; either in the form of the "fruitchouli" fragrance where the dominance of patchouli is given a sweeter overlay of usually berry fruits or in the form of the "floral patchouli" which we affectionately call the "nouveau chypre" (or "pink chypre" perfume). Technically nevertheless at least the latter is not as recent as all that.

via

In fact these so called patchouli "chypres" as many have suspected all along are not "true" chypres perfumes. Rather the dominance of floral notes plus patchouli and the relative lack of animal notes and musk places them in a slightly separate group which I had been meaning to tackle for a long whilte. That group however is none the less revered taking into account the many classic perfumes which are classified within it.

These floral patchouli perfumes have mainly become possible through the introduction of "luminous/transparent jasmine" in the late 1960s aka the Hedione ingredient which "reads" as fragrant lightly green air above the jasmine vine. The pliability of this material makes it the perfect bridge between the sweet medicinal-woody note of patchouli and the rest of the floral components. Indeed most of the patchouli perfumes with dominant floral elements are fitting neatly into the 1970s and 1980s slot: Diorella (1972). Aromatics Elixir (1972). Coriandre (1973). Paloma Picasso (1984). Knowing (1988).

If you think about it the "nouveau chypres" with Narciso for Her eau de toilette being in the vanguard didn't deviate much from this path. The patchouli is "cleaned" up of its darker chocolate and peppery aspects but the woodiness prevails alongside a modern Amberlyn (ambrox) base and the overlay of sweet orange blossoms; a noticeable floral component.  White Patchouli by Tom Ford also divests of the dirtier aspects of patchouli and increases the white flowers antel it's a prime example of the contemporary translation of this concept. There is also the new Aromatics in White by Clinique; fittingly a flanker to the original Aromatics Elixir perfume from the 1970s. I have noticed that the use of "white" in the name lately has taken to suggest a sizable slice of patchouli in the modern style.

In what concerns the Diorella fragrance by Dior the main chord is built around Hedione-Helional-eugenol-patchouli. The fact that Helional used in 5% quota in the formula carries an airy and watery hint with it speaks volumes; it's no coincidence that Diorella works very very well in the heat! Especially combined with the copious citrusy essences on top. Hedione 10% and cis-jasmone 2% plus natural jasmine absolute gave the richness of the classic Diorella floralcy. Rose only played a very very small part in the original composition. A hint of peachy note was possible through C14 aldehyde. The softness of that note plus the airier-watery components conspire to give an illusion of melon to our noses.

Some of the basic components in Diorella are also taken unto Aromatics Elixir by Clinique though the formula there takes a turn for the rosier and darker without pronounced citrus notes. Helional and Hedione again combine with patchouli as well as vetiver (for an enhanced earthy feel) and woody violets. The bouquet is further enhanced and "opened" with lily of the valley synthetics like the air seeps into a newly opened bottle of red wine and lets it "breathe". I always find that either Hedione or lily of the valley are the decisive "keys" with which a composition of formula unlocks its message.

I'm using the example of Aromatics Elixir to further discuss the likes of Aramis 900, Paloma Picasso and Knowing by Estee Lauder. These form a tight group of kinship. Not coincidentally the common perfumer at the helm of IFF and commissioned with the work for Lauder (Aramis and Clinique are both Lauder companies) was Bernant Chant; he of Cabochard (a more hardcore leather chypre fragrance) as well as of Aromatics Elixir and of Aramis classic for men. 

Knowing in particular is an undersung marvel and "reads" today as a very venerable authentic chypre thanks to its perfume-y powdery character. But its progeny must be traced into the floral patchoulis of the previous decade. Specifically Coriandre.

In Jean Couturier's Coriandre fragrance the key ingredient is the similarly jasminic Magnolione (comprising 20% of the formula) alongside 10%  patchouli. The rose base is founded on geranium making the trasition of Coriandre into a shared fragrance more easily imagined. The spicy top predictably includes coriander but also the intensely green "budding" note of styralyl acetate (the scent of budding gardenias) and ylang ylang. So it's again a floral aspect given a woody underlay (apart from vetiver and cedar ingredients there's also sandalwood; arguably the genuine Mysore variant back in the time of original launch of the fragrance.

The difference with Knowing is that the American taste for almondy fluffiness manifests itself via the use of heliotropin, while there is also the component of a white floral that makes its presence known: tuberose with its bubblegum facets turned up a notch.

In Paloma Picasso/Paloma Mon Parfum the perfume is saturated in castoreum which might trick us into believing we're dealing more with a hardcore chypre a la Cabochard than with a "floral patchouli" as we defined it in the introduction of this primer. But the thing with perception -and the point of this primer- is that it is influenced by context. In yesteryear's milieu perfumes like Knowing or Diorella were differentiated from the more tightly clustered classic chypres. In today's comparison with the syrupy fruities or even the "nouveau chypres" they seem like the end of the hardcore spectrum. Similarly the newer contestants to the throne appear like the emperor's new clothes whereas they form the distant relative to a long line of noble lineage.

If Francis Kurkdjian and Christine Nagel (both credited with Narciso For Her; Nagel specifically also the founder of the fruitchouli with Miss Dior Cherie) created something new, like Isaac Newton they must have seen further by standing on the shoulders of giants.

Related reading on PerfumeShrine:
Perfume Primers: Chypres for Newbies
The Chypres Series: History, Landmarks, Aesthetics, Contemporary Fragrances
Perfume Primers: Aldehydic Florals for Beginners
Chanel No.19: Woody Floral or Green Chypre?

Halloween Preparations: Scent & Beauty

With the fun time of the year coming up soon, I have compiled an easy guide that is all treat, no trick, with various fragrance suggestions and beauty products that evoke pumpkins, ghouls, jack o'lanterns and naughty playtime. You can find it on this link on Fragrance.About.com

pic found via

If you're buying gifts for late October or November occasions there is also another guide with expert quotes from perfumer Aaron Way and niche boutique owner David Pirrota which you can access on this link. 

And since many of our readers are 80s and 90s folks, you might enjoy this slideshow paying homage to the 25 years (25, man!!!) anniversary of the airing of Beverly Hills 90210 Spelling produced TV-show. Find out what fragrance would Kelly, Brenda, Dylan, Valerie and all the other kids at West Beverly High would wear if given half a chance.

And please feel free to share your own fragrance & beauty suggestions/experiences in the comments below. 

Reader's Mail: Suggest things similar to Le Labo Patchouli 24 and Chanel Coromandel

The lovely reader Denise is kindly asking: "Can you please let me know if anything is similar to Patchouli 24 (Le Labo)? I tried Bulgari Black more than once & I don’t think it’s remotely similar to Patchouli 24; also anything similar to Chanel Coromandel? These 2 are so very expensive, so that’s why I’m wondering if there’s something similar. I read Prada is similar but have no clue which Prada. I like anything smokey, incense, nothing flowery or sweet."

My initial thoughts run to Zino by Davidoff and Borneo 1834 by Serge Lutens (a comparison of both fragrance with Chanel Coromandel perfume on this link) and to La Troisieme Heure by Cartier (XIII, in their boutique circuit) though that one doesn't come cheap either, Mona di Orio Cuir and Sonoma Scent Studio Fireside Intense as alternatives to Patchouli 24. Despite the name one has to remember that the Le Labo scent smells mostly of birch tar.

The Prada referred to is the original Prada eau de parfum by Prada for women (2004). In my personal view it's not a smell alike to Coromandel (and even less so to Patchouli 24) but in the same family.

 For incense suggestions we have Incense Week, where I categorize lots of incense fragrances and review them in detail. Denise and anyone interested in that sort of fragrant vibe can also check the Woody Oriental section and Woody Chypre section of these pages.

Can you help her out? Please write your suggestions in the comments below this post.

Related reading on Perfume Shrine: Twin Peaks, a guide of smell alikes 

"Perfume does not have a function. It's more than a function. It's not necessary. It's not particularly useful."

Thus presents the aphorism perfumer Jean Claude Ellena. And Christine Nagel, co-head perfumer at Hermes perfume development, quips: "It's impossible to wear a perfume that you don't like. If you took more time to smell people rather than looking at them you would understand them better. If you took the time to do that."

A very interesting interview of both Jean Claude Ellena and Christine Nagel is uploaded on the NY Mag on this link by Kathleen Hou. They explain how we can't be with people whose smell we don't like, whether Hermes soap is superior to all the other soap around, how marketing and perfumery work in weaving fragrant stories and how the two perfumers have almost fallen in love...with each other's work that is. Read on for interesting insights.