Manos Gerakinis Parfums Sillage X: fragrance review

 Not coincidentally, the new Sillage X commemorates the 10th anniversary of the Greek niche brand founded by Manos Gerakinis as a project that is destined for a customer pursuing the refined things in life and the greatest luxury of them all: time. This is why Manos Gerakinis divulged to me in an interview that he takes his time to develop his fragrances; he doesn't rush to cater to the latest trend because he knows it will look like a quick grab and no soul, destined to not last. 

Created to celebrate the 10th anniversary of Manos Gerakinis Parfums, Sillage X is a thoughtful yet positively joyful olfactive reflection on the passage of time and what remains timeless. 

Although Sillage X is presented as a predominantly vetiver scent, it does not project as one. It is neither green nor fresh in the sense of all those summer vetivers that have been linked to airy and crunchy smellscapes, as classical as Guerlain's Vetiver and Carven's Vetiver. The citruses do burst like angels from the skies to sing their bright message of joy, but the fragrance soon turns into something different than a cologne. It's a thing of its own, terpenic, dry, delicious, and woody-spicy— a sillage that is leaving a trail of mystery behind it. Tempered but still substantial, smooth yet also somewhat durable. 

The main delectable note is black pepper (piper negrum), a note that the wide public is biased against, mainly because when they read "pepper," they're equating the smell with the flavor and fear things that make people around them sneeze. Of course, no such thing is true, either of the oil (which I love!) nor of the generous use of it in the formula of Sillage X. The spiciness is just right, balancing the citruses on top and giving that delicious durability to the heart, which grows out in the iris direction; starchy, earthy, nicely rounded and yet fresh too, reminiscent of juniper and cedarwood. Black pepper has the great quality to bring into focus elements that would otherwise recede to the background, and in Sillage X, this is eminently showcased. As my colleague Mat wrote about another instance, "In order to make a full-bodied black pepper aroma, you have to "extend" it by something weighty. In this case, the perfumer chose to do it with the help of various woods. Coming in second in importance, the note of cedar, dry, coniferous, and woody, peeks out soon enough and supports the savory theme of black pepper recalling cedar nuts, cutting board, and juniper wood trivets." 

If you're wary of fennel, on the other hand, rest assured that its touch of anethole is discreet here; there's no risk of you smelling of pastis. On the contrary, allied to the other spicy components, it brings on a degustation balance, the calm and serenity of a great dinner—all things in good order and in measured portions. 

Sillage X (2024)

perfumer: Vasiliki Psatha

Top notes: Bergamot, Lemon, Mandarin

Heart notes: Vetiver, Black Pepper, Cardamom, Fennel Seed

Base notes: Cedar, Moss, Patchouli

Comme des Garçons Zagorsk (Incense Series): fragrance review

Zagorsk by Comme des Garçons is among the less mentioned specimens in the Japanese-centrifuge brand's collection of fragrances inspired by various incenses used as burning materials around ther world. Comme des Garçons was among the first to explore the idea that people have cultural associations with burned materials. "Incense," after all, comes from the Latin verb meaning "to burn." They launched not one but five scents in their iconic Incense Series, each geographically codified to appeal to a specific sensibility and religious context. 

                               Gordana Ristic, pic borrowed from Pinterest

In the case of frankincense, which happens to be the main material of ecclesiastical incense -the kind that is burned in censers in Christian Orthodox and Catholic churches- the association with church is a given, even for the non-pious. The emanations from the church escape into the air, and the congregation has fumigated their clothes during service just enough, so that a subtle trail can be caught by a sensitive nose outside afterwards. 

 Zagorsk, composed by Evelyn Boulanger, is fittingly dedicated to the Eastern orthodox churches. I picture them on Eastern European soil as a solace from the cold, but also bearing the birch (leathery, tarry) and fir atmosphere of the outside, the coniferous tonalities that befit countries of vast forests. Plus I detect a clean clove note, embracing the cold, which is inextricably tied to my mind with Russia and Eastern Europe; those Soviet carnation scents must have been at the root of that. It's perfect for winter weather and it is alongside Vert d' Encens by Tom Ford, lamentably discontinued, a green incense that defies that cliche of heavy and cloying incenses that are so full of balsams that they cease to smell of frankincense and turn like orientalized soups of lead-ladden notes. Worth seeking out for a long-drawn sniff. 

Affinissence Vanille Benjoin: fragrance review

I am not entirely convinced that AFFINISSENCE's plan of marketing (and that of creation?) succeeds in creating seamless canvases of hues, with their professed aim of monochromatic chasms between top and base notes. Supposedly they do not mesh programmatically, yet they have to in the end, otherwise they'd smell flat and off, which they emphatically do not. The collections are divided into Notes de Fond (base notes), Notes de Coeur (heart notes) and Notes de Tête (top notes). 

                                   Jeremy Willens, pic borrowed from Pinterest

Vanille Benjoin is part of the Notes de Fond collection. It's important to note the timeline of the brand, as I'm sensing it began as something less complicated. AFFINESSENCE began as a niche French brand, launched in 2015 with the first four fragrances (Cedre Iris, Patchouli Oud, Santal Basmati, and Vanille Benjoin) followed by Cuir Curcuma and Musc Amber Gris in 2017. The collection was unique then, by the base notes concept of the owner, Sophie Bruneau, who decided to translate her passion for intense, rich, and long-lasting fragrances, and especially for their deep base note accords, as the leading ingredients in her line. So naturally, no pun intended, the following collections were undertaken as points of departure when the intended base note materials had been explored. 

 The brand described Vanille Benjoin in the following words: 

"In order to present this extraordinary "marriage" of ingredients Affinessence combines two types of vanilla (Tahitian vanilla absolute with the intense scent of leather and the sweet aromas of Madagascan vanilla absolute). This blend is combined with the so-called alter-ego, Siamese benzoin, a fragrant resin originating from Laos which is highly respected for its balmy, almond-like shades. For the strong, irresistible trail, scents of ambroxan, tonka, Moroccan and Chinese cedar were used, placing benzoin and vanilla in the transcendent, providing amazing strength." 

 Despite it being a vanilla it's one that references a unisex scent that was originally launched for...men. So whatever you sex, feel safe to explore this one. 

 Vanille Benjoin was developed by perfumer Corine Cachen. She must have been influenced by the style of Menardo, especially for Bvlgari Black from 1999, now discontinued. Or following the skeleton of this leather-powdery tension (which is also evident in the classic Habanita, especially in the 1980s versions and a teeny tiny part only in Bois Farine by Jean Claude Ellena - minus the peanut butter note in that one!) 

 Side by side with Bvlgari Black the Affinissence scent projects with an initially sharper top note, which smells a little higher in pitch. It then softens into the heliotrope-suede-almond-vanilla tonalities that we're associating with the flou accord of hazy dark clouds of a smoky atmosphere somewhere warm and cosy. It's that musky vanilla that people who like mystery and intrigue in their perfumes most appreciate. Whether it may fulfil the longing in the hearts of those missing Bvlgari Black remains to be seen whilst trying it out for yourselves and living with Vanille Benjoin Affinessence for a short while, so samples are highly recommended.

Eye brighteners: in search of the right one

 Tending to one's under eyes, especially when dealing with both some puffiness, some loss of volume and subtle shadows (but not dark circles per se), is a complicated affair. Luckily no wrinkles yet. I want something light, thinly creamy, non detectable in the natural light of day that would rather brighten than create an opaque layer of concealing. These latter types of products tend to sit like wet cement on the pavement and I don't want that effect on my skin anywhere, not just under the eyes. On the other hand highlighters are by nature meant to draw attention to the places they're put on, right? 

In the past I had great results with the light "pen" highlighters by Guerlain called Precious Light Rejuvenating Illuminator (mimicking YSL Touche Eclat in concept). 

But not having purchased either in years, I wonder if they keep the same consistency of quality and effectiveness now that time has elapsed. The click-pen mechanism is supremely practical, negating the need for separate brushes and it keeps the formula moist and protected at all times: only the product needed comes into contact with air as you pump as you go along your merry way. They do come in pricey for the quantity though.

If you have experience with either lately, let me know in the comments. 

I have also heard good things about Catrice Eye Brightener Instant Awake directly from makeup artists. The Instant Awake name is calling like a siren, who doesn't want something like that? I wonder whether it would mean that it's more for dark circles though than overall rejuvenation of the under eye area. 

This is a creamy product in a pot, so it should probably require a special brush to apply, kept for this purpose especially. Which brings me to another question: would a concealer brush be too dense for it? would it need a fluffier eyeshadow blender brush? Or a sponge applicator to thin it out? Your input is very much appreciated here too. 

My latest purchase was MAC Prep & Prime Highlighter pen in shade Bright Forecast. I got it because it promised (in a very promising video) to brighten, colour correct and generally give a rested appearence. It was a whooping 29 euro plus shipping in the local market and I can't say I'm 29 euros satisfied with what it delivers. It's nice enough to use, a creamy consistency etc, but it does set a bit thick and the peach hue does not do anything in terms of colour correcting. It's just like a warmer version of my own skin. So you have a ballpark on how I'm going about it. 

Tempalia suggests the following alternatives in pen highlighters for under eyes and strategic places on the face (quoting her verbatim below with brands available in my EU market), so let me know if you have experienced any of them: 

• Dior (Sun Beam may be comparable to Bright Forecast; Roseglow to Radiant Rose)
• Givenchy (Moon Light seems most comparable to Radiant Rose)
• Guerlain (nothing seems comparable in color–these are skintone shades)
• Sephora (#01 seems like Radiant Rose, #02 seems like Light Boost; #06 seems like Bright Forecast)
• YSL (Light Peach seems comparable to Bright Forecast, Luminous Ivory to Light Boost, and Luminous Radiance to Radiant Rose)

And what about the famed Nars Creamy Concealer? Have you tried it for this job? Satisfied? No? I'm all ears.

Diptyque Lunamaris: fragrance review

 Lunamaris by Diptyque, part of the new collection Les Essences, inspired by rare natural materials, managed to capture my attention and eventually my preference within the new line-up. It's a sleeper, that I suspect will please a lot of people if only given a chance to try it out. It grows on you. This fragrance genre has an affinity for prompting introspection and daydreaming, akin to listening to Eric Satie and his collective opus of Gymnopédies and Gnossiennes. Music that eases the mind and set forth a spiritual mood, with restrained sentimentality and low vibration sounds that stir the senses in a non flamboyant way. It's excellent for doing mental work, as its lack of words helps with concentration and -much like baroque music, though in a different way- it aids the mind to put a flow into thoughts. 

                    photo via pinterest

 The intention was transliterating the effect of mother of pearl or nacré into a scent. Perfumer Fabrice Pelegrin worked on the dual nature of mother-of-pearl, iridescent and whiteish, with a combination of resins. Cistus labdanum and frankincense-myrrh are played into the effects of the structure. It gives a fresh, cool ambience backed by subtle warmth which blooms on the skin when the fragrance is finally settling. To transliterate this beauty and dream-like quality into a fragrance it needed materials and chords that echo this subtlety and low-key dazzling of the senses. Perfume lovers can think of some: irises, metallic effects, shimmery incense effects, mineral chords, rose oxides... No innovation then in the composite parts of Lunamaris the fragrance, but excellent execution, something I'm giving more and more attention to. An incense with spicy notes and a fresh feeling, it easily comes through victorious. The poetic name, which unites the notions of the moon (luna) and the sea (maris) creates a tension that almost pre-empts the image of a dark nightime seascape where the silvery path of moonbeams sheds its magic upon the waters. It's dreamy in itself. 

                              photo via pinterest

 The myrrh and labdanum components give Lunamaris a vibrant feel, bittersweet and mysterious and almost abstract. I also detect a certain rosiness, the kind that is vegetal, pure, botanical and not liquer-ish or femininely floral. This is attributed to pink peppercorns, or in French baies roses. Of course Diptyque has cemented a cult favouring of their legendary Baies candle, so it fits effortlessly into their fine fragrances too. Contrary to what most people associate with pepper or peppercorns, baies have a rosy texture, adding flavour and aroma but no real heat to the palate when tasted. Therefore the subtle spiciness and the becoming, rosy aroma contributes to fragrances in a way that cannot be tagged retro under any guise, fully justifying why perfumers have used pink pepper with abandon in the last couple of decades in contemporary compositions. This was exploited in Toy Boy by Moschino too, recently, in order to give a non feminine feel to a fragrance geared towards men. 

 Overall the scent of Lunamaris is dry, completely unisex, devoid of any retro or stereotypically feminine or masculine traits and produces that zen quality we associate with an experience at a temple or a high-end spa retreat. It is clean and definitely minimalist luxury. There is also a musk inside which I suspect is Cashmeran, adhering to the skin in a very nice way, and yet projecting fine to others coming into the radius of its appealing aura. The lasting power is also very good, tenacious over the course of a working day.

Available as Eau de Parfum.