February 27th: Anosmia Awareness Day & Fifth Sense

What does your sense of smell mean to you? Next time you inhale one of your favourite fragrances, consider the many among us who have lost their senses of smell and taste to conditions such as anosmia. Little understood and often dismissed by the scientific research and medical communities, smell and taste disorders can be caused by head injury, illness or age. Anyone who loves perfume, flowers, food and wine will appreciate the importance of the sense of smell - and the implications of losing this. Anosmia sufferers who have spoken candidly about their experience include Olympic double gold medal rower James Cracknell OBE; food writer Marlena Spieler; and Ben & Jerry’s ice cream’s Ben Cohen. Founded by Duncan Boak, Fifth Sense is the first charity to provide current, comprehensive information and advice about smell and taste-related disorders, leading the effort to educate society about the critical role that the sense of smell plays in our lives.

Fifth Sense will launch on March 15, 2014 with an event run in partnership with the University of London’s Centre for the Study of the Senses, whose Rethinking the Senses Olfaction Workshop takes place on March 14. For further information, please visit www.fifthsense.org.uk or email Fifth Sense at info@fifthsense.org.uk.

press info by Maggie Rosen

And here are two clips on Anosmia with professor Thomas Hummel from the Smell & Taste Clinic.

Guerlain Muguet 2014 and Guerlain News: Terracotta Le Parfum, reissues & discontinuations

Every May 1st, the Guerlain clientele can wear that year's limited edition of Guerlain Muguet which celebrates the "good luck" charm that lily of the valley stands for. The tradition of re-issuing the Muguet (i.e. Lily of the Valley) perfume dates from 2006 and you can find an article with the history and the bottles of the different annual edition of Guerlain Muguet on this link.

via elle.fr

This year Guerlain appealed to ceramist Brigitte de Bazelaire (associated with Porcelaines de la Fabrique who manufacture Limoges china since 1825). The process requires a double "baking" at more than 1000 degrees Centigrade.
The white biscuit porcelain container contains a bee bottle with a white bow and pale green liquid inside. The design reprises the style of Les Parisiennes, the boutique line sold at boutiques and espaces Guerlain. The scent is a realistic lily of the valley soliflore with additional notes of jasmine, bergamot and rose. The 2014 Guerlain Muguet edition is presented in 1872 numbered bottles internationally sold for 400 euros for 125ml, available from May 1st and for only a few days.

via elle.fr

There also other news for Guerlain maniacs:
First of all a discontinuation, though I'm expecting it won't go down with too much wailing: Guerlain L'Homme Eau (2010) is discontinued, a rumor which was originally reported on Mr.Guerlain's page and officially confirmed by Guerlain. Available therefore only while stocks last.

But there is also a reissue: Idylle Duet Rose Patchouli (from 2011), a flanker to the original Idylle, more info on which you can read on the linked article

Last but not least, Terracota le Parfum is a limited edition to celebrate 30 years of Terracotta products which have made the reputation of Guerlain makeup to the widths of the globe. This is a solar fragrance (reminiscent of summer via its salicylates allusions, not different than the effect in Terracotta Voile d'Ete  most probably) and you can see a linked picture of the bottle on Instagram.

Fragrance Reviews of the Resurrected Guerlain Perfumes for the Centenary Celebration at Champs Elysees (part 2)

This is part 2 of the perfume descriptions of the heritage Guerlain fragrances which were re-issued for the smelling enjoyment of those who visit the renovated flagship store at Champs Elysees in Paris. If you have missed part 1 you can access it on this link.

Let me again extend my thanks to the generosity of Mme. Delacourte; without Sylvaine it wouldn't be possible to go in such detail. 

 SILLAGE

EXTRAIT 1907

A floral of white flowers : jasmine, tuberose, ylang-ylang on a leather background, oak moss and again tinctures of animal ingredients. A perfume emblematic of its era.

CANDIDE EFFLEUVE

EXTRACT 1922

Read more on this link

Fragrance Reviews of the Resurrected Guerlain Perfumes for the Centenary Celebration at Champs Elysees

Guerlain celebrated its centenary anniversary at Champs Elysées with an extensive renovation which lasted 9 months. The re-opening of the boutique on November 23rd impressed all Guerlain lovers with the reaffirming of the splendor of the classic French brand, as well as with the reissuing of iconic fragrances which form part of the cultural heritage of Maison Guerlain. These perfumes, displayed on the first floor of the 68 Champs Elysées boutique however are not for sale: the perfume enthusiast can visit the flagship and experience the sensations that these recreated scents from the past convey, but the formulae do not comply with current standards and therefore they stand mostly as a prized curio and a dream vehicle than a product to place on one's vanity.

But it is no matter!

The vivid and creative imagination of Jacques Guerlain who produced several fragrances per year is something to be enjoyed, rather than hoarded with materialistic aspirations.

So, the question is: How do these resurrected, Guerlain heritage fragrances actually smell? Thanks to the talents of Thierry Wasser and Fred Sacone (junior perfumer at Guerlain) who recreated them in contemporary time but vintage context as well as the indomitable spirit and generosity of Sylvaine Delacourte, it was possible to share with you. I thank Sylvaine for sharing her impressions and for continuing to assist the perfumers in what is a labor of prestige and love for the brand.

Here there are, the scent descriptions for all of them, in chronological order of original launch.

PAO ROSA (1877)

This really old cologne was first made in 1877, comprising the elements we have come to associate with classic colognes. The effarvescent top is comprised of bergamot and neroli, while the heart is centered on rose with the animalic notes of Tibetan musk tincture and civet tincture.

A TRAVERS CHAMPS
EXTRAIT 1877

Despite the opening notes of bergamot, petit grain and lavender, the focus of the extrait of A Travers Champs is undisputedly floral with rose, ylang ylang and a very pronounced spicy carnation note. The background is built on powdery iris, an authentic birch tar leathery note, woods and sensual impressions from amber and animalic scents.

Click to read more.

Welcome Back in Production (Tauer Fragrance Re-Issue)

Next month, in March, Tauer Perfumes #12-Eau d'Epices returns to the shops after an absence of a year and a half.  Eau d'Epices is a quite interesting scent and very much falls into a love/hate relationship with the Tauer clientele. The "love's" are clamoring for the return and here it is!

I will be devoting more space to it since it is a perfume I personally like very much and hopefully there will be lots to discuss about some finer things in the production and distribution of niche perfumes. Stay tuned!