Bertrand Duchaufour shares "rockstar" status

Michelyn Camen took a very interesting interview from Bertrand Duchaufour, Symrise perfumer, currently in-house nose for L'Artisan Parfumeur and the creator behind the Eau d'Italie and Comme des Garcons fragrances among others, for Fragrantica.

"How do I describe Bertrand? He is down to earth, hip, self-confident but without pretense; he is also a multi faceted artist whose photography and painting are his other great passions. Ah yes; although his fragrances have been predominately unisex… it was a young woman - his first girlfriend who introduced him to fragrance when he was 17. Cherchez la femme..."

And concerning the upcoming Havana Vanille (read our review here), Duchaufour discloses:

"I combined more than 15 materials producing more than 80% of the whole formula; the original one and I worked with was the narcissce absolute {sic}, an very rich facetted raw material, which was at the heart of the composition and fave {sic} way to the subtle alliance of narcissus, everlasting flower and tonka bean. This accord is reminiscent of tobacco leaf- which is both honey-sweet and narcotic. " And for later on: "I am working on several projects for L’Artisan Parfumeur, including a Vetiver, a Tuberose, and an Amber Oriental. And I just finished for the next launch an incredibly strong OUD. I am very happy with this one."

You can read the interview here.

Pic of Bertrand Duchaufour via blog.girvin.com

Idole d'Armani commercial: I have been searching all my life for a woman like you

~I have been searching all my life for a woman like you!
~Are there any other women like me?
~You fascinate me.
~Like all others...
~You're my idol.
~That's my idol! (ie.Idole d'Armani)

[translation from the French by Perfume Shrine]

Featuring Kasia Smutniak and the classic hit "I put a spell on you" (best known by Screamin' Jay Hawkins).
I can't say I am overbowled with enthusiasm (I had voiced some concern before), are you?Although it looks rather good on the whole, it seems very unimaginative! Kasia looks a lot like Keira Knightley here (the bone structure, the mannerisms to highlight it and perhaps the hair shade): I call it the "mold effect" ;-)

Originally uploaded by modelstvcm2 on Youtube

Scents and the City

Jason Logan, illustrator and author of “If We Ever Break Up, This Is My Book” takes us on a scented utinerary through the heated summer neightbourhoods of New York City in The New York Times (this has nothing to do with a niche brand marketing their products via this exact concept, by the way).

Much like our Scented Travel Memoirs here on Perfume Shrine, it seems like specific places hold captive certain distinctive smells which unlock the floodgates of memory and forever paint the picture of that place upon meeting that scent again. From the "territorial soapy cologne" of Harlem (along with its "crazy perfume" which has me intrigued as to what it might be or -to further the thought- what is considered "crazy" in relation to perfume), to the "musky-and-sweet" aroma that might or might not be deodorant at Fort George, The Cloisters, and on to the exhaust, the foods and the garbage that fringe any urban landscape, this is a must read to get a better appreciation of the big Apple. Read it here and be sure to move your cursor on the map (a little nose follows your moves).

Pic from Alexander Mackendrick’s drama Sweet Smell of Success, with Burt Lancaster and Tony Curtis, set in New York City and based on the same-titled novel via altfg.com

The battle of the Nude: L'Oreal and Stella McCartney coup a small win

You might have heard about it and it might have turned you off slightly. Bono's wife, Ali Hewson, 48, objected to the use of the word Nude in the newest Stella McCartney fragrance called STELLANUDE (a flanker to her bestselling scent), on the grounds that Nude was copyrighted by her, via Irish Nude Brands Ltd, a skincare line with ambitions to launch a fragrance in the future called Nude.
"In May 2008, when asked for permission to use the trade mark 'Nude' for a Stella McCartney perfume, Nude - though great admirers of Stella McCartney - respectfully refused as a Nude scent is forthcoming," the statement said. "Nude considers the launch of 'Stella Nude' by L'Oréal to be a clear infringement of Nude's trade mark. To protect their brand, Nude was forced to take the matter to the English High Court." [source]
A L’Oréal spokesperson confirmed that the legal case had been brought at the beginning of August: “Yves Saint Laurent Beauté Ltd can confirm that legal action was started against it and Stella McCartney Limited by Nude Brands Limited on 3rd August 2009 in London. The case is ongoing," the spokesperson said. [source]

It had made an impression to me because Nude by Bill Blass was a well-established name already (I suppose the trademark has expired) and on top of that the whole issue reminded me of the kerfufle on the word Peace involving a big and a small brand some time ago. The whole axis of the matter according to one source relied on the use of capitals in this case and it seemed like a fine legal point to entangle.

The news is that judge Christopher Floyd from the High Court has overruled possible blocks from Nude Brands Ltd. in favour of L'Oréal and Stella McCartney: NBL may win in the trademark trial set to take place some time next year (2010), but the judge ruled "it was not appropriate to block the launch of the StellaNude fragrance nor bring the trial date forward". He further elaborated: “The risk of confusion between NBL's products and SML's [Stella McCartney Limited] is, in my provisional view, small. The evidence does not show any real basis for supposing that a customer would be led into thinking that some form of association had been created between NBL and SML" [...] and an injunction could cause “massive disruption” to McCartney’s business. It was specified that the copyright infringement argument wasn't without merit into bringing to court however and the issue will disentangle completely in 2010.
The September launch of StellaNude is postponed, initially planned so as to coincide with the runways, and now costing a fortune in lost revenue. Still, the launch whenever it happens, is assured lots of press because of this.

Painting by Joseph Stella via encore-editions.com.
Ad via beautyeditor.com.au

Ormonde Jayne luxury travel purse sprays

Wonderful news from posh niche perfumer Ormonde Jayne: it seems like the portability and easiness of small purse sprays has been materialized for our pleasure!


Until now, the Ormonde Jayne fragrances have been available in 50ml eau de parfum sprays or in 50ml pure parfum bottles. Today, responding to deafening demand, each fragrance comes in an elegant box of four 10ml eau de parfum sprays.

These black and gold sprays slip unobtrusively into the tiniest of clutch bags for evening glamour and are perfect for weekends away or in hand luggage for travel abroad. Hand poured in the company’s own studio in London , they perfectly reflect the levels of quality, luxury and service for which Ormonde Jayne is so renowned.

Created and privately owned by self-taught nose Linda Pilkington, the Ormonde Jayne range is composed of eleven original fragrances, eight for women (a ninth to be launched October 2009) and three for men. Spanning the perfume groups from floral through oriental to chypre and finally citrus, each fragrance has its own lineage.

Ormonde Jayne London Perfumery flagship store is in The Royal Arcade off London ’s Old Bond Street . The recently opened store in Dubai is located in Boutique 1 in Jumeirah Beach .
The online boutique http://www.ormondejayne.com/ ships worldwide in 3-5 days.

Luxury Purse Sprays retail for £54 a set.

Related reading on Perfume Shrine: Ormonde Jayne scents news and reviews.



Info via press release.