Dior Cuir Cannage (La Collection Privee): new fragrance

Dior's La Collection Privée (formerly La Collection Couturier Parfumeur) is supplemented for 2014 with a new addition called Cuir Cannage. The "leather fragrance" in question is inspired by the scent of the insides of a leather handbag and reflects that beautiful combination of flowers and leather "notes" which is the mettle of many gorgeous classics in perfumery.

May I remind how the legendary, late perfumer Guy Robert described a long lost Lanvin perfume, Scandal, "like a beautiful flower snapped inside a leather handbag".
In the case of Cuir Cannage, the flowers in question are orange blossom, rose, ylang ylang and jasmine, buttressed by the leather accord (from birch wood and cade oil notes) and given the downy treatment thanks to the inclusion of orris. The perfumer is Dior's steady Francois Demachy.

The name is inspired by the beautiful "woven" treatment of the Dior "cannage" handbags, which reprise a popular technique of weaving calamus and daemonorops for furniture use and basketry (producing a beautiful effect that reminds of lacework). By reference the name then predisposes for a dry, rasping fragrance.

The new Dior exclusive perfume, Dior Cuir Cannage, will be available in the usual 125ml and 250ml sizes of La Collection Privée as well as the giga 450ml size at the specialized Dior boutiques catering to the exclusive collection buyers. Available in June 2014.

Dior La Collection Privee Oud Ispahan: new fragrance

Dior took siege of the oud bandwagon it seems: Besides their established Leather Oud, they're issuing a second "oud" fragrance in their Collection Privee line-up, this time combinging two exotic references in one in its name: Oud Ispahan.

The oud craze has taken almost every single perfume house on the planet vying for a perfume with the exotic-sounding prized Eastern material in the name to the point of boring perfume fanatics to tears. Largely this is just a trend that will eventually pass, relying on brain manipulation: mention a posh, exotic sounding material (oud/aoudh/agarwood) and let the audience dream about something different than what actually goes into the bottles. But we can't blame companies for wanting to produce what has proven successful commercially last time...can we?

Not only oud, not only Damascus Rose, but also amber, all rolled into one this time. Mysterious, grown-up hippy for women (and men, the fragrance is presented as a unisex offering) who want to smell sophisticated and orientalised, exotic and fascinating, Oud Ispahan is a fragrance release that will create some talk.
Of course the more seasoned perfumephiles among us will find that oud and rose is a classic combination that has been already explored, but Dior rather aims at consolidating a seeming Arabian authenticity than presenting a novel accord.

According to the official blurb, the notes are varied: “Oud Ispahan recreates Mr. Dior’s dreams of the Orient* through a striking Rose-Oud-Amber accord. Created by Dior Perfumer-Creator Francois Demachy, this universal scent features top notes of Labdanum Absolute, middle notes of Patchouli Essence from Indonesia and bottom notes of Oud Essence from Laos, Rose Essence from Turkey and Sandalwood Essence from New-Caledonia for a warm, spicy reinterpretation of Eastern locales.” According to perfumer Demachy it's "an immediate impression, an instant local snapshot of the Orient"

There's a bit of discrepancy here which I'd love to point out for our readers, just for history's sake: Christian Dior has been known to say, "As for the bazaars of Trebizond, on entering I felt as though I was heading into Ali Baba's magical cave." Trebizond, to be factual, is actually on the border of the Caucasus region and the Black Sea and bears the heritage of the Byzantine empire and its Greek populaces, and has nothing to do with what is commonly referenced as "Arabia", but let's allow this lumping of the Middle East into one exotic amalgam continue for Western tastes... The fragrance might prove to be spectacular regardless, so historical consideration might end up meaning nothing.

Oud Ispahan is going to be released in summer 2012 through Dior boutiques worldwide and will be available from 28th May in Selfridges Maison des Parfums on Oxford Street, London.
125ml of Dior's Oud Ispahan will set you back 125GBP, 250ml of juice go for 185GBP and 450ml cost 285GBP.