Xllence, the new line of fragrances of niche Italian brand Farmacia SS. Annunziata from 1561 is an embarassment of riches: three huge eaux de parfum in 250ml bottles with a retro pump atomiser- Talc Gourmand, Sweet Musk and Vetiver Incenso.
Farmacia SS.Annunziata came aboard the "luxury with abandon" bandwagon of XXL containers rather later than others (Chanel, Hermes), perhaps dispelling two myths: the two drops of perfume worn by Marilyn Monroe in bed or that size doesn't matter. The new collection aims to please different tastes at any rate, including gourmand notes, musk and vetiver.
Soft and sweet, Talc Gourmand eschews the liveliness of the top notes in favour of powdery, talc-like notes softened by a touch of honey and caramel. In the heart vanilla, heliotrope and chocolate melts on a woody-sweet base composed of sandalwood and tonka bean.
Sweet Musk focuses on a heart of musk, sensualised by the inclusion of rose and jasmine on top. Musk gains in seductive wiles, underscored by velvety vanilla, amber and patchouli.
Infused with the aroma of spices on woods, Vetiver Incenso on the other hand rests on a complex scheme of citrus-spicy top notes (lemon, bergamot, grapefruit and ginger), seguing to a spicy-woody heart (juniper and pink pepper) and woody-amber notes in the final phase (oak moss, patchouli, amber and cedar wood)The main accord of incense-vetiver oscillates between warm and cool.
The new Xllence line by Farmacia SS. Annunziata comes in Eau de Parfum concentration of 250 ml.
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A niche brand having its own niche line? And, where are the odd names like Ybris?
ReplyDeleteI can see the mainstream would-be niche pattern. Extravagantly huge bottles? Check. Several fragrances launched at the same time? Check. Names in French-English babble? Check. Names that list an ingredient or two? Check. (I forgive this when it says Cuir something.) Bonus in the form of huge bottles? Check. (This is the least offense, after all, I have my stuff mostly in extrait in 50 ml atomizers.)
Meh. Colour me irritated. And I say this as a great FSSA fan.
L,
ReplyDeleteyou were the first person I was thinking of when writing this.
Ybris is such a high-faluting name it's a classic. I wish they didn't succumb to "concepts". After all, the new direction is small, tiny bottles.
I adore FSSA and I'll do what I can to get my hands on the Talc and the Musc. It would feel blasphemous for me to ignore them. Yes, the bottles are massive, but we can always learn to share :-)
ReplyDeleteElena, obviously:D I guess that their extraits in 100ml bottles were over the top enough. Especially the Patchouly Indonesiano which lasts for three days and two showers.
ReplyDeleteYbris is pretty weird, a friend of mine calls it canned peach because, well, it smells of metal and peaches in sugar syrup.
The next time I go to Florence, I'll check at the source.
LTS,
ReplyDeleteI like your way of thinking! ;-)
I have to say the Talc one is calling me for some odd reason, the V&I is also tempting.
L,
ReplyDeletecounting on you!
You know, when I had mentioned canned peaches (metal + sweet peach) in relation to an indie perfumer's scent in the past, the perfumer had been up at arms. I didn't mean it demeaningly, I meant it factually: that's what it smelled like. Not necessarily a bad thing.
The Patchouly is indeed incredible: Borneo is also super-lasting, but I think the FSSA one is hippier.