Clinique Aromatics in White: fragrance review

It's easy to get immersed in the White Bear Problem while reading Clinique's laconic message for their newer fragrance Aromatics in White.

 Pretty. Intense.

 What does your mind "read"? Pretty intense, right?

As Dostoevsky wrote in 1863, "Try to pose for yourself this task: not to think of a polar bear, and you will see that the cursed thing will come to mind every minute."

In a way Aromatics in White is both things; both at once, but not one stressing itself upon the other.
It's a quite decent and very contemporary modernization of what has been the Great Dragon of the Clinique stable of thoroughbreds, Aromatics Elixir. The company is of course owned by the Lauder Group and the same IFF perfumers, like the legendary Bernand Chant have worked for both outfits ~the archetype is his handiwork, as is Aramis for men -another Lauder offshoot-, Lauder's own Azuree perfume and Alliage.


The classic Aromatics Elixir, is the scent that half of Athens, Greece, smells of. (The other half smells of car exhaust, lush jasmine vines, roasted coffee and charcoal smoke from diners. It'd make a pretty intense and pretty great perfume; indie perfumers take note!) Its commercial success is uncanny, for decades on end; it can't be just a generational thing, but something much more ingrained in the country and its cultural "chypre" heritage. After all history is a hard subject to shoot down...

Hardcore chypres are nothing if not head-strong, and thus the original is much derided, polarizing its audience; from mad love to "old lady" slurs of disgust, "a dream to some, a nightmare to others!".
The need for what I call "chypres nouveaux" was therefore latent all through the 2000s and the smashing success of Narciso Rodriguez for Her recalibrated what we consider a "modern chypre fragrance". (It's basically a floral woody musky and if you have guessed by now that Aromatics in White is one, you'd be more or less correct).

Consequently the senior Aromatics, with its dynamite rose-n'-patchouli core, had already been lightened with Aromatics Elixir Sheer Velvet Philtre Sensuel (try saying that quickly three times) from 2006 and Aromatics Elixir Perfumer's Reserve from 2011. The arrival of the new edition couldn't skip the sophisticated contemporary style that recently begat things like Si perfume by Armani or La Panthere by Cartier.

"I have always been fascinated with the magic of Aromatics Elixir and its attraction on the skin. I wanted to convey that feeling with a new, modern composition," stated perfumer Nicolas Beaulieu on the occasion of creating Aromatics in White.

Aromatics in White is particularly musky (and I'm glad fellow blogger Persolaise agrees), intensely patcoulisized and quite sweet in a sort of arabesque way, though not quite (no leaden "amber note"). Notice the prolonged, very pleasant powdery-soapy drydown that is simple but not simplistic. Its volume is turned down, yet its impact is keenly felt. And if you think you're not smelling it after a while, lean in cause it keeps itself alive on clothes like crazy.
All of these definitely put Aromatics in White into the contemporary map of worth-whiles (and the fluid, mother-of-pearl like austerity of the bottle is a bonus), but it might never really surpass the Sacred Beast that speaks the Charm of Making. Some things are immortal, even if they're not for everyone.


Fragrance Notes for Clinique Aromatics in White:
Top: Sichuan pepper, violet leaves, labdanum
Heart: rose, orange blossom, patchouli
Base: leather, musk, grey amber, benzoin, vanilla. 

Twin peaks~Aromatics Elixir and Earth by Apivita

Perfume Shrine is introducing a new feature: Twin Peaks.
Lynch inpired but lynch-free for the fragrances it aims to juxtapose and compare highlighting their similarities and kindred spirits.
I sure hope you enjoy finding some smell-alikes for things you were either scared of, unsure of, broke for or just bored to go hunting down following their lamented discontinuation.



The first duo on this feature is Aromatics Elixir (which has already been reviewed the other day here) and Earth by Apivita.

Apivita is an old Greek brand, founded in 1979 which goes

"back to a small pharmacy, owned by Niki and Nikos Koutsianas. Being both passionately fond of natural products and having great respect for Classical Greek philosophy, they created a line of soaps and shampoos based on bee products: honey, propolis, royal jelly and bee pollen. Their first brand, Dermoline, later named Propoline"

The brand quickly flourished thanks to their natural approach that utilised the best products of the rich Greek flora and of bees. "Api" stads for the api-doings they use in their excellent products and "vita" means of course life. Life through the workmanship of bees, then! Not a bad idea from a biological standpoint.
Today they are a leading brand on natural based products and aromatherapy offerings, focusing on the use of top quality essential oils and encompassing many different categories for the care of face, body, hair, pregnancy, babies, health and balance as well as aromatheurapetic and fragrant products. (You can visit their site here).

It was the latter that caught on in the eyes of the american public through the immense success of their Euphoria line: a fragrant eau de toilette, shower gel, body lotion and body scrub with notes of ylang ylang, vanilla and white chocolate that melted under your hands and hypnotised the senses.

And then recently they came out with a series of "soli-scents" (for lack of a better word) that focus on one respective element using natural essences as much as possible, for which they have already become well respected, but with a certain depth and complexity in the simple ideas laid out as well.

Of those 7 scents, Earth was the one that immediately caught my fancy, although I liked others as well, Jasmine being another one.
The familiar tang of relation to something old and enjoyed from afar dawned on me and I realised this is the younger, more wearable version of Aromatics Elixir.
Earth shares many common notes with the afore mentioned Clinique fragrance as well as the concept of aromatheurapeutic effect on the psyche. It is even advertised as having a positive energy surrounding it that you might want to share with the world.

Its intense patchouli base allied to sandalwood is unmistakeable and accounts for much of the impression it gives me of being close to Aromatics Elixir. Rosewood and a floral heart of ylang ylang add some airy, slightly soapy element whereas a mix of spices -of which clove bud is listed but I perceive many- and bitter mossy touches render the whole into a composition that transports one into a sensual realm of power and desire.
Because the company uses the mythological reference of Hera and talks about fertility (a Goddess concept to be sure) and because the cinematic associations with Excalibur were still fresh in my memory from the other day, I thought the clip below wasn't very far off from what I perceive it in my mind to convey.


(uploaded by rottenweasel on youtube)

If Aromatics Elixir is akin to the darker, bewitching powers of Morgana Le Fey, the scent of a villaness, Earth is simpler and unaffected, reflecting the innocence of the youth of Igrayne and her fertile womb, soon to carry the seed that would culminate in a legend. The dance sequence from the film is indicative of the slightly submissive stance that Igrayne takes to her husband and yet there is desire, ecstacy and lust in her movements that prompts Uther to his utterances despite the severe cost he would pay.
What the clip doesn't show is Uther, animated by highly charismatic Gabriel Byrne, literally spits at the end of the challenge by Igrayne's husband, ready to break the alliance and siege the castle.
I am not sure whether men would literally fight for a woman wearing Earth ,minus the skimmed-milk complexion and strawberry blonde tresses of Katrine Boorman, but I guess it doesn't hurt to try!

You can find Earth by Apivita at b-glowing and Amazon. There is a bigger 50ml/1.7oz glass bottle and a smaller 10ml/0.3oz bottle that is very cute and practical for your purse or travel.

Pic of twins by Diane Arbus via Transidex. Pic of Earth bottle courtesy of b-glowing.

Aromatics Elixir by Clinique: fragrance review

If you have ever wandered in a dark, damp forest you know the smell of dead leaves trampled underfoot and grasses soaked with bog water. But do you know what trolls smell like? Do you know what the enchanted forest vibrates of? You feel it in the air, you know it in your flesh, the waters speak of it in hushed murmurs...
Elixir. Aromatics Elixir.

The old scent by lab-coated cosmetic giant has nothing clinical about it. Except perhaps for its potency which is phenomenal, accounting for it being immediately recognisable and perceived within a 10-mile radius. It is the one singular scent, a very characteristic chypre, I always compliment on its wearers yet find stifling when I wear it myself. Maybe this is why it introduced the infamous "spray and walk into the mist" technique. It had to! But then "walk into the mist" is so evocative a phrase anyway.

Composed in 1971 by master perfumer Bernard Chant, the same man who created the headstrong Cabochard, a personal favourite for all the right reasons, it bears the powerful signature of intense patchouli and moss in the arms of sandalwood and vetiver. With a base like that it brings to mind the german forests of the brothers Grimm and the scandinavian mythology. The sudden entrance into an apocryphal cave where creation must have begun, in the guts of the earth, fans out powdery notes of coumarin and rose and the bitter taste of good soap. Humble chamomille is mocking you as you bend to pick up some to only come face to face to poisoined mushrooms.

With its dramatic, sad and intense tonality, it reminds me of Aase's Death by Norwegian composer Edvard Grieg, from "Peer Gynt" (Suite No. 1, Op. 46)
Click to listen to it.


(Uploaded by skszyp on youtube)

This is no laughing matter! No fairies or elves lurk in the dark corners, no Shakespearian lightness, no redemption for the frail of heart. It takes bravado and cojones to wear it and to be prepared to burn in its embrace. Into the embrace of the Dragon, where all things meet their opposites. The future and the past; desire and regret; knowledge and oblivion; and love....oh yes...
Excalibur came as a most welcome shocker to my novice eyes back in 1981, when it introduced me to what later became an obsession and almost a thesis. With its ingenious choice of thespian extraordinaire Nicol Williamson, its ravishing villainess in Helen Mirren alongside other wonderful choices following the masterful baguette of John Boorman it filled my mind with the beautiful, magical imagery of the emerald isle where it was shot and with the gruesome realism of medieval battle coupled with the romanticism of Morte d'Arthur.


Click for a quick taste.

(uploaded by kipesquire on youtube)

Recently there has been a Velvet Sheer version of Aromatics Elixir out (a seemingly oily gel that does contain alcohol nevertheless per Clinique, in a beautiful clear splash bottle with a clear glass top). Lighter, younger, much more wearable, playing up on a more subtle approach of more chamomille and a less animalic base, minus the civet and deep moss.
So if you have qualms, maybe now is the time to step into the enchanted forest and reap the aromatheuraputic benefits it has been purported to have on the psyche since its creation all that time ago. The body products are also an excellent choice as their scent really lingers.
However the old version in parfum is still something to hold in awe, even if you do not like it.

Like Merlin says: "A dream to some, a nightmare to others". Couldn't be more aptly said for Aromatics Elixir.